Air Conditioner Checkout

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Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 16:58:18 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: AC on 82 truck
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Roubinet, Paul @ SLG wrote:
> 
> I have an '82 Toy truck with factory air.  When I turn the AC switch on,
>  the compressor does not engage.  If the system was void of Freon,   would
> this prevent the compressor from engaging?  The fuse is good.     Any
> thoughts/ideas would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks

Paul, a few items to check:

1. Compressor clutch siezed
2. No refrigerant (freon) in the system--Leaks
3. Bad A/C pressure switch--will not allow compressor to operate with
too little or too much freon
4. The A/C button is faulty
5. A/C wiring or A/C amplifier faulty

Unfortunately, nowadays most A/C repair is not recommended for DIYs. If
you have a good grasp of electrical troubleshooting, or access to A/C
gauges, you may be able to at least diagnose the system and save some
$$$ that way. The Toyota manuals are a good resource to have for A/C
repairs.

Good luck,

Jim
- -- 
Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
					Stock 4.10 gears
					Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

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Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:49:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jon Brandt 
Subject: A-C
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Try recharging the A-C. The toy automatically shuts of the compressor 
when its low.

Jon, Sacramento, CA - jbrandt@csus.edu


On Thu, 5 Mar 1998, Robert Stein wrote:

> Well, I know that I'm trying to to much at one time on this truck , but
> this is one of those little things that just doesn't seem right. Here's
> the situation : 
> 
> Hit A-C button next to fan speed lever and it lights up when the fan
> comes on. Compressor doesn't :( 
> I've checked the fuse, it's good, hot wired the compressor clutch and
> it's good. 
> Looked through the GOOD old Haynes manual and the wire color is wrong
> for the power to the clutch  and it doesn't
> show a pressure switch for the `85 truck but does for the earlier
> models.
> Anyone have any suggestions on where to go now and what/where is this
> A/C Amplifier it shows ? Might the problem be in there ? 
> It's coming up FAST on what looks like a H O T   Oklahoma summer and I'm
> getting prepared early  ....
> 
> Thanks in advance for ALL the help guy's !!!!!
> You Toy Folks are the GREATEST !!!!! 
> -- 
> Robert Stein        rjstein@lawtonok.net
> FAX (405)355-1476   rrbbs@juno.com
> Lawton,Okla         rjstein@wolverine.cameron.edu
> http://www.lawtonok.com/rjstein/toyota.html
> 
> 
> 

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Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 21:02:33 -0800
From: Ken Emanuel 
Subject: A-C
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Robert Stein wrote:
> 
> Hit A-C button next to fan speed lever and it lights up when the fan
> comes on. Compressor doesn't :(
> I've checked the fuse, it's good, hot wired the compressor clutch and
> it's good.

Mine did the same thing when the A/C condensor line got punctured.  I
didn't know that it got punctured, so after testing the wires to the A/C
switch, it diagnosed as if a wire was bad going to the compressor.  So,
I replaced the wire and viola--the light and compressor would turn on. 
BUT, that's when I discovered that the A/C wasn't cold because all of
the freon was gone.  
Apparantly, the circuit is engineered such that the compressor will not
turn on unless there is sufficient pressure in the system (or something
like that.)  That's when I pulled my new wire back out so that the
protection circuit is in place again--and I have yet to have my system
recharged.  I am debating purchasing the conversion kit for R134a so
that I don't have to pay $60 per ounce for freon.  I understand that it
wouldn't cost me much more to convert to R134a than it would to keep
paying $60/ounce.

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
'87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

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Date: Thu, 04 Jun 98 15:09:37 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: Re: AC Diagnosis

On Thu, 4 Jun 1998, "Dupree, Robert A."  wrote:
>Anyone got a 10-15 minute checklist for me to run through to figure out why
>my AC isn't blowing cold?  I have not checked the compressor yet, but maybe
>someone knows other special things to check.

Here's the basics (real basic mind you, but it's worked for me)-
- - Visually check for oil spots/cracked hoses/loose connections.
- - start truck, turn a/c on max
- - Visually Check for compressor engagement
    If NOT engaging:
        Check for power at the clutch (test light)
        Check for continuity at the low-pressure cutoff switch
        if the LP cutoff show no continuity Jumper the connector
         to briefly engage the clutch - if this fixes your problem, then
         you've got a bad LP switch (unlikely)
- - Check the sight glass (if so equipped) - you're looking for moving
        fluid, bubbles usually mean low charge.
- - Feel the 'low pressure' side of the hose coming from the firewall (core 
inside the truck) - it should be COLD to the touch.
- - Feel the High pressure side (small hose) going to the condensor up front - 
should be real warm (hot?)
A bad compressor will either leak at the front shaft seal (there should be 
oil visable) or will quit compressing, so the hose temps won't vary (not 
moving freon)

If you're looking to get an old A/C fixed yourself (cheap) then I'd suggest 
converting to R-134a - I have done this on 4 vehicles so far, and all work 
great (the oldest conversion is about 2 yrs old now.)  I simply started by 
fixing the leak problem (if it's found or 'fast') then with the 'dead' (no 
R-12) system (if yours has a good charge, take it in to be fixed - they can 
pull out the R-12, fix it, then re-install the R-12 back in!), Purged a bit 
of 134a (1-2 oz max!)through the system (by bleeding off the high side while 
filling from the low side).  Put a can of 134a in, put in an 8 oz oil charge, 
then topped the system off with 134a to about 85% of old R-12 capacity.  I've 
used that 'leak detector and stop-leak' on a ford van w/ dual a/c, since the 
leak wasn't obvious, and it's been almost 2 weeks now and the leak still 
hasn't shown up....  Here's what I DID NOT do that a lot of people told me I 
would need to do 
1) change seals (except where a new seal was required)
2) buy a new compressor (yeah right! - and throw away a good one?  They told 
me it would eat the seals away in the compressor and it would lock up after a 
couple of days - I'm still waiting....)
3) change hoses - ( they say that the R-134 will 'disappear' without the new 
barrier hoses designed for 134, but after 2 yrs I haven't had to add 
refrigerant yet.)
4) get a bigger condensor - while this might be a problem in some small cars 
- - not having enough area to properly 'cool' the refrigerant after it's 
compressed, the trucks I've done didn't need any help there.... interesting - 
I just thought about that one - I've only done 3 trucks and a van.  If I had 
to guess on efficency I'd say that they're at 90-100% of what the original 
capacity was...

- - Brian

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Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 19:03:01 -0700
From: Ben Harrison 
Subject: Re: AC Diagnosis

Is the fan motor running?
        yes.  good.
        no.  check all fuses.  bad fan?
Is the compressor running?
        yes. is the larger line cold?
        yes.  If fan is running, You should have cold air
           no.  probably low on refrigerrant
           no. do you have any pressure?
            yes.  do you have power at clutch?
              yes.  bad clutch.
              no.  next line...
              yes.  are all fuses good?
                 yes.  pressure switch may be bad.
        
- -Ben Harrison

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