Brake Bleeding

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Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 17:25:24 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Brake Bleeding
To: "        -         (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" 

The easy way to remember the brake bleeding pattern is to start from
the cylinder furterest away and work back.

I do it with one person in the drivers seat so I can stay under the truck

Drivers Rear
Passenger rear
Prop Valve
Passenger front
(I do the clutch at this time)
Drivers front

EWong

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Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 18:35:27 -0500
From: WartHog 
Subject: Brake Bleeding
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:
> 
> The easy way to remember the brake bleeding pattern is to start from
> the cylinder furterest away and work back.

> 
> Drivers Rear> Passenger rear> Prop Valve> Passenger front
> (I do the clutch at this time)> Drivers front
> 
> EWong


I preferr to start at the Pump (Master) and work back. That way:
1) The components (prop valve) dont add resistance to the bleed job.
Components add compression to the gasses in the line.
2) I hump a minimum of "air" thru the componants, reducing unlubed wear
and possable jamming due to the explosive nature of compressed gasses.


Marks $0.02

rheschel@bright.net
www.bright.net/~rheschel

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Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 08:06:00 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Brake proportioning valve
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Jay wrote:

        "When bleeding your brakes, there is a
        bleed screw on the prop valve that
        should be bled as well. Can't remember
        the order in which it is bled, but the
        manual describes it."

Do it last.



 - Nick

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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:48:38 -0800
From: James Brink 
Subject: Humble Opinions needed
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Lang, David V. wrote:

> 2. Master Cylinder is leaking. Shop quote of 200.00 for replacement, not
> including labor. Does anyone know what a Toyota Master Cylinder costs? I
> would like to replace this myself also. I read the Cliton's manual, and
> it seems pretty straight forward, but I know with alot of things in the
> world, there is the between the lines reading. If I following the book,
> and replace master cylinder and bleed brake system, what other things do
> I have to look for or do that they do not mention in the manual???

New OEM master cylinders for your vehicle run around the $170 mark.
Pretty easy to replace. Bench bleed the master (off the vehicle) if you
can prior to installation. This involves filling the reservior and
cycling the piston to fill the master and expell air. There are kits
available to simplify this operation that dump the fluid from the fluid
ports back into the reservior.

Once the master is mounted on the booster (two 12mm hex nuts), bleed it
as you would the brake cylinders by cracking the fluid lines after
pumping the pedal. You shouldn't need to bleed the rest of the system
unless the pedal is still spongy.

Try to use a flare nut or "line" wrench on the fittings for the master
cylinder fluid lines. They are quite soft and the hex portions will
round off if a regular wrench is used.
- -- 

Jim Brink
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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:24:58 -0800
From: phil_linker@cohr.com
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding

Hey Brian,

Sometimes tight bends in brake lines will trap a bubble that can be 
tough to get out.  On the fronts you maybe able to begin with a 
gravity bleed to get the bulk of the air out.  Remove the caliper,  
straighten the flexible line then angle it slightly uphill to the 
caliper.  Crack the bleeder, then start rapping on the caliper with 
a rubber hammer.  Twist, shake, rattle (and any other verb you can
think of) the caliper until fluid exits.  Remember the bubbles travel 
to the top, so that's where the bleeder should be positioned during 
this process. Cinch the bleeder down until you are ready to finish 
the fronts.  

You won't be able to (easily) gravity bleed the rears unless they're 
discs.  At this point you'll have to decide on the two man method, 
pressure bleeding ($500 for Phoenix RFT) or vacuum bleeding ($75 
for mighty mite vacuum).  If you are married, this is a perfect time 
to aquaint you spouse with the rig's brake pedal.  

Find yourself a coke bottle, clear plastic hose which will slip over 
the bleeder valve and a fresh bottle of brake fluid.  Add an inch of 
brake fluid to the coke bottle, slip your bleeder wrench over the 
valve, then slip on the clear hose. Put the other end of the hose in 
the coke bottle.  Ask your wife to press down and release the brake 
pedal three times.  On her fourth iteration (while she is actively 
pressing, but before the pedal bottoms out) you must open the valve 
for a second, then close it.  Initially, you'll notice much bubbling 
in the coke bottle, but after three of four cycles it'll be nothing 
but fluid.  Keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level; nothing 
will piss you off more than starting from scratch.

If you still have problems, a pressure bleeder may be the only way.  
Pressure bleeders produce the kind of pressures and flow volumes 
necessary for purging your lines of air.  Just about any decent brake
shop can help you out there.

Good Luck, 

Phil37

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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:14:55 -0700
From: Marc Sahr 
Subject: Brake bleeding

I was reading the procedure on brake bleeding, and I use a method that
works perfectly for me every time. I bleed my brakes by myself without
any expensive pumps or tools. You need a large (at least quart, bigger
is better) clear, very clean, glass container. Some small-diameter
rubber hose that will just barely fit over the bleeder valve (about 2-3
feet long). And a quart or more of brand-new brake fluid.

Start with the farthest away wheel cylinder. Fill the clear container
about half-full, put the hose in the fluid, and put the other end on the
bleeder. Loosen the bleeder, and I can pump the pedal while watching the
air bubbles in the bottle. When the bubbles stop, I let the pedal come
back up, I tighten the bleeder, and move to the next-farthest wheel. Be
sure to keep the master cylinder full of fluid.

Sounds kind of funny, but it has worked for me for years.

Marc Sahr

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