Cone Washer Removal
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 22:24:18 -0200
From: Rod LaHaise
Subject: TLCAL Digest back issues
To: TLCAL@tlca.org
At 12:46 PM 9/30/96 PDT, you wrote:
>Also, I swapped Mini Truck Birfields (did the clearancing thing on the ends
>of the housings) and hubs and knuckles into my 76 FJ40 front end. Whats the
>simplest way to remove those &#$%$ing cone washers from the hubs, without
>ruining them?
Geeze I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this problem!!!
1) Loosen the nuts.
2) Start by soaking them with penetrating fluid (the stuff from Toyota is
the best)
3) strike the steering arm on the side, the impact usually pushes the cone
washers up.
4) If the above fails heat them with an oxy/acetylene torch concentrating
the flame on the cones then repeat step 3 and or try to get a small chisel
into the cone split.
NOTE: I asked the same question a couple of months ago because I had no
access to torches and the listers provided me with advice that had something
to do with jamming my nut's together and other more obscene acts and being a
good sport I tried them all and only managed to develop a limp for several
days. Try my method it works... painlessly :)
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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 09:02:10 -0600
From: Jack Alford
Subject: [Fwd: '73 FJ40 steering knuckles]
To: TLCAL@tlca.org
cruiser@akcache.com (Whatley,Mark) wrote:
>look like lock washers are "cone" washers. they are split cones which
>are forced into a mateing countersink around the stud. The easiest and
>least potentially damaging way to remove them is as follows. Use some
>sort of drift pin (or a socket extension if nothing else is handy).
>Place the drift pin vertically straight against the end of the stud.
>Hold it fimly in place so that it doesn't bounce when you strike it. Tap
>on it with a hammer. The vibrations will unseat the cone washer on that
>stud. Sometimes you will have to hit it repeatedly, and with increasing
>strength. You seldom have to really whale on it. After all four cone
FINALLY ! Someone else in this world who knows you DON'T have to deform
metal to get cone washers out, it's amazing how many people there are
on this list telling people to hit the hub or steering kunckle on the
side and the cone washers will eventually come out.
All you have to do is run the nut up flush with the top of the hub or
knuckle stud (to protect the threads) then place a drift or piece of
metal on top of the nut and tap it a few times and the cone washers will
pop right up. No knuckle or hub deforming necessary. It erks me to no end
to go looking for parts in junk yards and see hubs and knucles on Toyota
trucks all beat up from people beating on the sides of them ....
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Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 15:08:31 -0500
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles"
Subject: #%@& cone washers
To: Jack Alford
The other day I decided to pull my locking hubs (manual AISIN's) and
guess what, I could not get them off. I'm sure this is nothing new to
you experienced TOY mechanics out there, but while this is my 4th
toyota, it's my first 4x4. My last 4WD was a Samurai, and it used the
same (AISIN) hubs as this pickup, BUT suzuki used BOLTS with the cone
washers, and they came off without fail even 9 years down the road.
This pickup is three years old and the damned hubs are frozen on the
bloody truck ! How do I get them off without destroying anything ?
Butch
rokitman@erols.com
Just as it says 'Rocket Man'
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Date: Thu, 06 Mar 1997 18:13:38 -0500
From: WartHog
Subject: #%@& cone washers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
R. W. 'Butch' Stiles wrote:
> suzuki used BOLTS with the cone
> washers, and they came off without fail even 9 years down the road.
Studs are stronger than bolts. And more expensive. Thats why your Suzzy
had bolts.
> This pickup is three years old and the damned hubs are frozen on the
> bloody truck ! How do I get them off without destroying anything ?
Well, when working on city busses, we woulg rem all the nuts and beat
the half shaft with a sledge hammer. they would pop right out with the
second or third swing.;)
Obviously, thats not an option.
At the outset, I have to say that I have never done this to a Toy, but I
have removed many and plenty of cone retainers from other machines. The
following should apply.
Rem the retaining nuts and soak cones with Mouse Milk ( Pennatrating oil
)( I hesatate to put the Mouse Milk line in here, as I have seen times
when any fluid seemed to make the situation more difficult) Then gently,
repeat gently, work them back and forth with a screw driver in the slot,
or TAP them with a hammer/punch/chisel rotating every hit to a different
/ opposite side. And TAP it so the impact imparts rotation on the cone
in a direction that will spring the cone open / into the taper in the
hub. Using a gripping tool on the cone compounds problems, as it
tightens the cone on the stud.
When the cone comes out even a little, try wedging something ( screw
driver, SMALL chisle, taking care not to contact the stud threads or hub
) into the slot. This springs the cone open and then a gripping tool can
be used to wiggle/work the rest of the way off.
You may be able to jar some inital loosness into the hub by hitting the
side ( at mounting flange level) with a rubber hammer, a hammer and
block of wood, etc. Dont try "hitting" or pulling it off as that will
tend to tighten the cones.
This isnt a fast or easy job. It will take time and patience ( lots of
each ) to do this job without damageing the machine and thus, costing
$$$ to fix. Your probably into buying the cones as they are 1)unuseable
if damaged and 2) expendable.
The first time I rotated my tires, I noticed that white flakey corrosion
on the hub nuts. The Hub covers are now residing on the shelf. When the
wheather turns better, I plan to pull the nuts and cones ( one at a time
), never seaze the cones, and loc - tight (low strength ) the nuts. Any
time I pull anything off, if it isnt loc tighted or fiber washerd ( some
exceptions ), it gets never seized (ie: cardan cover, shock bolts, belly
pans).
Good Luck!
Mark
^WartHog
rheschel@phoenix.kent.edu
@bright.net
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Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 19:46:54 -0600
From: "Michael Rowe"
Subject: #%@& cone washers
To:
> This pickup is three years old and the damned hubs are frozen on the
> bloody truck ! How do I get them off without destroying anything ?
>
Try whacking it with a two by four or rubber mallet.
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 10:16:42 -0500
From: grandall@tmac.com
Subject: #%@& cone washers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I found that sharply tapping the side of the hub body adjacent to the
cone washers with a small light metal hammer will usually pop them out
after applying WD-40. You don't want to damage the hub but you do
want to send a small vibration through it and that's why a light
hammer will work, tapping instead of pounding. Be sure to put them
back together with Never-Sieze and they will pop right out the next
time.
I've also found that at least three heat/cool cycles will break a lot
of things loose. You don't want to use much heat on something like a
hub, just enough that you can uncomfortably hold your hand on the
hottest spot. An electric heat gun works fine. Then squirt on some
WD-40, cool it with ice, and repeat. You are trying to get the parts
to move to break the bond between them. Don't be afraid to do this
more than three times and to give the WD-40 time to work its way in.
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Date: Fri, 7 Mar 1997 13:59:36 -0600
From: Jack Alford
Subject: #%@& cone washers
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
>The other day I decided to pull my locking hubs (manual AISIN's) and
>guess what, I could not get them off. I'm sure this is nothing new to
Back the nuts off till there flush with the end of the stud, then
place a socket ext. or rod of steel or brass against the nut/studand
whack the end of the stud/nut with a hammer. After 2-3 firm blows if it
doesn't pop loose move to the next one. They'll all eventually
come loose. Please don't beat on the edge of the hub, I hate to
find 4x4's in junkyards with maimed hubs because of people trying
to remove them ...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 22:43:10 -0500
From: Kevin Watters
Subject: cone washers
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
> This pickup is three years old and the damned hubs are frozen on the
> bloody truck ! How do I get them off without destroying anything ?
The cone washers actually come off real easy if you have the right tools
The toyota manual recommends using a brass bar and hammer to tap (not
beat) the end of the studs. I have repacked my hubs many times and have
found this method reliable. Just remember to work in a star pattern just
like you are tightening the lug nuts on your tire and you'll have no
problem. Two or three smacks on each stud and the cone washer will pop
right out towards you, the brass allows you to keep from damaging the
stud on your hub.
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 09:24:39 -0500
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Michael Thomas Mollan
>mind with there experience I would greatly appreciate it. Also is there
>any tricks to getting the previously mentioned cone washers out. I tried
>quickly one day and couldn't get any to budge.
Mike, here is a re-post of some information I posted a while back about
packing/replacing front wheel bearings. Hope it helps.
- jack
========================================================================
Start by getting a Cool Whip container or something to hold the nuts/bolts
in.
- Jack up the wheel to be worked on
- Take tire/rim off the truck
- Remove the 2 caliper bolts and either disconnect the brake line from
the caliper or support the caliper so that the brake line is not
too distorted.
- Unscrew the 6 bolts holding the locking hob dial on (this is assuming
you have manual locking hubs). Pull the hub dial off.
- Unscrew the six nuts holding the hub body on out till they're flush
with the ends of the studs. Then take your brass drift or steel bar and
place it on the ends of the studs/nuts firmly with a hammer, This
is to remove the cone washers that are holding the hub body on. Give
it 2-3 firm blow then rotate the hub and hit the next. Don't just wail
on them, but hit them firmly. If you haven't ever had them off, it might
be good to start a few days early by coating the studs with WD40 in
case the cone washers are rusted in place. They can be a bear
to remove on some trucks. Just don't think that hitting the
hub body on the outside and deforming it will do you much good over
the life of the truck. Remove all 6 cone washers.
- On IFS trucks remove the screw from the end of the axle, on solid
axle trucks remove the lock ring from the end of the axle shaft.
- Pull the hub body off
- Beat the tabs of the lock washer back that are holding the outer
spindle nut in place.
- Remove the outer spindle nut. (I believe it's a 54mm socket that
you'll need.)
- Remove the lock washer.
- Remove the inner spindle nut.
- At this point, I usually grab the brake rotor firmly and just pull
the whole assembly off the spindle and try not to dump the outer bearing
out on the ground when it comes off the spindle.
- Then remove the outer bearing from the hub and the washer that
presses against the outer bearing.
- I have a seal puller that I use to remove the seal that holds
the inner bearing in. In past years I've turned the hub up and taken
a piece of wood and tapped the bearing/seal out the back side. Be
careful doing this if you're planning on re-using that bearing as you
can damage it easily.
- - - Now that you've the hub completely disassembled. It's time to get the
races out of the hub body for the bearings you want to replace. I use
a 1/2" x 1/2" brass bar. It's sortof tricky getting those races out since
there isn't a very large surface of the race to hit on. Just hit a little
on this side, a little on that, side, going back and forth and it'll
come out. I'd defintely use a brass *something* ...
- - - Then I'd clean/paint the hub while you've got it this far disassembled.
- - - Drive in the new race(s) in the same manner as removing the old race.
- - - Pack new inner bearing, put in inner bearing
- - - Drive in new seal
- - - Pack outer bearing
- - - Either put outer bearing into it's race and slip whole unit onto
spindle or slip unit on spindle then put outer bearing in. Be careful
not to dump new/clean outer bearing on ground when putting it on spindle.
(I've done this ...)
- Put washer with tit for slot in spindle on
- Put inner spindle nut on
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. Lbs.
- - - Put on locking tab washer
- - - Screw outer spindle nut on till it's fairly tight
- - - Bend one tab on the locking tab washer forward onto the
inner nut and one outwards onto a flat side of the
outer nut.
- - - put locking hub body on
- - - put cone washers and nuts on studs (coat the cone washers with
anti-sieze so that the next time you do this, the cone washers will
just pop right out with one blow)
- - - Either put the screw back into the end of the axle or install the
lock ring depending if you have an IFS or solid axle truck.
- - - Install hub dial and it's 6 screws ...
- - - Blast the brake rotor down with an ozone depleting blast of brake cleaner.
- - - Bolt caliper back up. and reattached brake line if it was disconnected.
- - - put tire/rim back on
That should about do it. That's all from memory ... I've done this
a few too many times .... If you don't paint the hub, it's about a
2-2.5 hr job ...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:11:51 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
If you don't want things flying out at you, remember to leave the hubs
in the "FREE" position. This will assure that the components of the hub
are securely locked to the hub cover.
As for the cone washers, many on the list can provide many good methods.
I like to tap on the hub lightly or on the studs that secure the hub
body to the rotor flange with a brass drift. Leave the nuts and washers
on a few threads so the cone washer do not fly off when freed. The can
be dangerous. Wear eye protection. Upon reinstallation, I smear the cone
washers with little anti-sieze to ease removal the next time. If the hub
cover and hub body to rotor flange gaskets (P/Ns 43531-60010/43422-60010
respectively--is that sick or what???) are bad, replace them--they're
cheap.
Hope this helps.
Jim
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
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Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 09:24:37 -0500
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Lockout Hubs and Tranny Results
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
James Brink wrote:
>cover and hub body to rotor flange gaskets (P/Ns 43531-60010/43422-60010
>respectively--is that sick or what???)
No that's beautiful man , it brought a tear to my to
eye to see someone quote part numbers like that ... :-)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
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Date: Sat, 28 Feb 1998 18:08:22 -0700
From: Brian Rishaw
Subject: CV boot repairs
To: ",Toyota 4x4 Digest-posting"
> On the re-assembly, though, I was concerned about the cone washers on the
> hub cover. I really beat these up on removal. Tried to locate replacements,
> the dealer didn't even have 'em. So, with reservations I re-installed the
> beat up ones. I *hope* I don't have to take that cover off real soon,
> beacause those cones really keep that cover on.
> Does anyone have any tips on how to get them off in that condition?
Chris,
First spray the studs and cone washer area with WD-40. Take a deep
socket that fits over both the stud and the cone washer without touching
the washer. Rap on the socket hard a few times with a hammer - the
washer will fly right off into the socket!
Brian
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