Differential R&R
------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:14:27 -0500
X-Sender: capuano@hypercon.com
To: Barney McNamara
From: Steve Capuano
Subject: Re: lockright
BRIEF SYNOPSIS:::
Pulling third member.
Unhook brake lines
unhook e-brake connections
remove tires
drain diff oil
remove 4 bolts on axle flange near the brke line connections,
both axles
pull axles out 6"
remove bolts on companion flange (4)
lay drive shaft aside
remove flange nuts on 3rd member
yank that heavy mug out!!(gently)
Dissasembly of 3rd member:::
mark and remove bearing cap(s) its one big piece
remove ring gear (mark it first with a grease pen, I found out
you can't center punch em)
remove pinion shft retaining pin
remove pinion shaft
remove guts and keep up with the thrust washers
install lockright (real simple you just put it together in
the hole)
Reassembley is opposite what taking it apart was
heat the ring gear slightly first though it goes on nicely
that way.
Real vague instructions, but if you can remove the 3rd mem your 3/4 there.
Steve Capuano 1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
capuano@hypercon.com 31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
Rear LockRight K&N filter
NRA lifetime member Dynomax 2.5" cat back Synthetic all around
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 00:58:17 -0500 (EST)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: replacing 3rd members - what is involved?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-02-21 22:12:09 EST, you write:
> been browsing the NWOR's catalog and they sell 3rd members with built-up
> diffs that contain lockers. i was curious in what exactly is involved
> with swapping them out? i can get as far as draining the fluid,
> disconnecting the rear drive shaft, unbolting the bolts that hold the 3rd
> member housing to the axle. but what's next? btw, i know what the 3rd
> member is but how did it derive it's name (and no jokes, please...)
>
>
The third member is pretty easy to do, and once you have it down, it can be
done in about 45 min.
Drain the Diff. fluid.
There are 4 bolts behind the brakes that hold all that to the axle housing.
Remove those nuts and un-do the brake lines at the backing plates.
Take off the driveshaft.
Pull the axle shaft and brakes out from the housing about a foot.
Take the nuts off that go around the 3rd member and pull it out.
I think thats it...
I am not sure about the difference with a solid front axle, sorry.
Hope this helps. Personally, I hope I never have to do it again (In and out
7 times in the last year)
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Feb 1997 08:44:20 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: 3rd members with solid front axles
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, for those with solid front axles:
Buy the hub tool from Downey or Northwest, or you're not going anywhere.
Thoroughly steam clean front axle, brake, hub assemblies.
Pull wheels.
Drain diff oil.
Undo front driveshaft.
Disconnect brake tubes.
Remove calipers.
Remove hub cover mounting bolts.
Remove snap rings.
Remove hub bodies.
Remove spindle knuckle mounting bolts.
Remove dust seals and dust covers.
Quick! Get a bucket or some sort of large container you really don't
care about. Put it under the knuckle. Watch it fill with old
grease.
Remove knuckle (Birfield) spindles.
Remove axle shafts.
Pull 10 nuts off 3rd member.
Get a floor jack and wrestle the very heavy 3rd member onto it.
Make sure you have a torque wrench that can go down to 5 lb.-ft. when
reassembling.
It takes longer than 45 minutes. If you've never done it before, it can
take a LONG time. Fighting the stuck parts takes the longest. I could
probably do it in about 90 minutes if I really needed to; hopefully, I
won't. Changing from stock Aisin hubs to Warn hubs speeds the process up
quite a bit, 'cause you don't have to mess with the cone washers.
BTW, buying the pre-assembled 3rd members from NWOR will cause your wallet
to lighten much more than if you had any other gear shop on the planet do
the same thing for you. I saved over $900 (more, factoring in shipping) by
having a local shop set up my 3rd members with a Detroit rear and Truetrac
front, regearing, and new bearings, seals, etc. I even got a year's
warranty on the installation, even though I installed the 3rd members
myself.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 08:26:57 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: "Remove knuckle (Birfield) spindles"
To: Sheldon
Sheldon -
regarding "Remove knuckle (Birfield) spindles"
you wrote:
"DO YOU MEAN REMOVING THE KNUCKLE
THAT ATTACHES TO THE AXLE? ( THE
ONE WITH BEARINGS ON TOP AND BELOW?)
BECAUSE IF YOU DO YOU CAN GET THE
SHAFT (AND bIRFILED OUT WITOUT
REMOVING IT) YOU JUST NEED TO SPIN
THE AXLE BY HAND UNTIL THE FLAT SPOTS
ON THE BIRFIELD ARE AT 12 AND 6
O'CLOCK AND THAT PUPPY WILL SLIDE
RIGHT OUT."
That's what I meant. I did NOT mean break the knuckles apart. After all,
we're (theoretically) replacing the front diff, not rebuilding the
knuckles.
However, since we're already in there, this would be the perfect time to
rebuild the knuckles with new bearings, seals, and felts.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:03:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Leroy Andersen
Subject: Differential gasket change
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
There is an easier way.....
You dont have to remove the wheels....... Unbolt the four retaining bolts
on each and slide the whole unit back far enough to get the axles out of
the diff, and unbolt the diff..
Vola.. the diff is out on the ground.
The diff can be changed in about 20 min driving down the road.
I have done this many, many times and have never broken a brake line, it
sure makes it easier.
Hope this helps
Vic
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:34:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Diff Gastget Change
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I don't see how you manage to do this without breaking apart the break
lines. I have personally done the change about 20 times or so, and I
would love to know your "secret"
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 8 Dec 1997 09:18:46 U
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: Locker
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 8:39 AM
OFFICE MEMO Locker Date: 12/8/97
Scott Hollister wrote:
>This is true. However, you do pull the carrier bearing caps and adjustment
>screws, which affect backlash. Pattern won't change, but if the backlash
>is too far off, the gears won't last long. These adjusters also set
>carrier bearing preload, and if that's not right, they won't last long
>either. A dial indicator is used to check both preload and backlash.
If you are pulling the carrier out and reinstalling the carrier with
the same bearings you can put the carrier bearing adjusters back the
way they came out and be fine.
If you change carrier bearings or carrier, preload and backlash will
have to be reset.
I've also found that the stock ring bolts are really soft metal.
I found on one install, several stripped on me when tightening
to the recommended torque. Since then I typically torque them
to 5 under the spec to avoid any sucjh problem. I back this up
by using Locktite and the metal bolt keepers.
______________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ '91 4Runner (hers)
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com '72 Jeep Commando
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk '97 H-D Sportster
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
______________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 13:49:24 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Axle warp?
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"
I finally swapped out the diff (originally a blown pinion bearing and lots
else now)
When putting the axles back in, the drivers side would not "seat" the last
1/8". Took the diff OUT and it still would'nt seat - so it wasnt hanging
up on the diff.
Put it back together and (its a daily driver) and decided in my sleep
deprived state that I would SLOWLY crank down on the 4 retainer bolts in
a cross pattern and see it it would "go in".
Well - it went back together w/o too much trouble - it was not that tight
driving the axle bearing retainer home.
So the question is - whats bent?
My guess is that its the bearing retainer.
That side had a blown bearing at 10K (new) and its now got 235K.
Dealer replaced the *bearing* under warranty.
Its comming apart again soon (to put in the 4.56's - now that I have
a spare SET of diffs with some help from Jack Alford), so I'm not
too worried, but I wondered if it was a bent housing or bent axles?
EWong (pilot bearing *Genius*)
- -- Boy - I dont read for a few days and now I'm the subject of a flame war? :)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 21:40:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: fosters@OctoNet.com (Wayne and Nadine Foster)
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #206
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>
>
>Date: Sat, 24 May 1997 14:44:58 -0400
>From: "penny"
>Subject: crush sleeve
>To:
>
>In digest #199 I described a prob. im having with my rear diff after
>complete disassembly ive found 1 small pitt on one of the rollers on the
>front bearing,the guy at the local bearing shop sold me a new one yesterday
>so i thought id cheat a little and re-use the old crush sleeve ,when i put
>the nut on the pinion shaft and torque it to 60 ft. pds.then try to rotate
>it it feels like the bearings are getting too much pressure or something Is
>this cause of the crush sleeve?Can some-one please explain to me what this
>(sleeve) does? My manual (haynes) says 145-253 ft. pds on the pinion nut is
>this correct?And also the bearing caps that hold the carrier assembly to
>the housing,what are the torque specs for these 4 bolts? any help would b
>appreciated !!!
The crush sleeve is designed to give the two pinion bearings a specific "
preload " or crush. On most diffs it is measured in inch pounds of turning
torque. Usually about 15-25 inch pounds.It is best measured with a dial type
torque wrench. The actual pinion nut torque isn't too important , just the
preload on the bearings.Thats why they give such a broad torque range. When
using used bearings ( only when you really have to) there should't be much
preload. You should use a new crush sleeve. The older trucks used small
shims and a spacer to determine the pinion bearing preload.
Wayne Foster "FOZZY" Island Rock Crawlers Victoria B.C
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 27 May 1997 09:29:23 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: crush sleeve
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 9:06 AM
OFFICE MEMO crush sleeve Date: 5/27/97
Excellent details Wayne. Thought I might add a note or too.......
I've heard of a number of shops that reuse the crush sleeve and
shim it about 0.015" so they can recrush it. I've never felt comfortable
doing this so I've always used a new one. I have reused pinion bearings.
My front ones are the originals. However, they can only be reused if
they are in good shape AND you can press them off the original pinion
without damaging them.
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY) '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:26:41 -0400
From: "penny"
Subject: crush sleeve
To:
thanks for the recent response to this prob.saturday I ordered a new crush
sleeve from Mike Erdman Toyota for a mere $19.00 should be here wed. or
thurs.Does any-one know how (backyard style) to set ring and pinion
depth?Im not too concerned with long wear because my truck needs different
gears anyway....(35s,4.10s luckily theres not many hills in florida) Still
need torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold the carrier to housing
(yep,shoulda used a torque wrench when I took it apart) Thanks again....
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 28 May 1997 09:02:25 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: crush sleeve
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 8:32 AM
OFFICE MEMO crush sleeve Date: 5/28/97
"penny" wrote:
>Does any-one know how (backyard style) to set ring and pinion
>depth?Im not too concerned with long wear because my truck needs different
>gears anyway....(35s,4.10s luckily theres not many hills in florida) Still
>need torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold the carrier to housing
>(yep,shoulda used a torque wrench when I took it apart) Thanks again....
In most cases, the gear set is machined to closer tolerance than
the third member housing so for a good first guess the original
pinion shims can be used with the new pinion. A lot of times,
this will give you the correct pinion checking distance (depth).
Checking the gear pattern with marking compound will tell you
if the checking distance is correct.
You will need a dial indicator to check the ring gear backlash
and to set the bearing tension for the carrier.
If you have some experience setting up gears, you could
probably come fairly close by feel, but I would only do
this if you don't care if the gears are short lived.
Are you trying to find the torque specs for the 4 bolts that
hold the carrier bearing caps?
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY) '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 01:10:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: fosters@OctoNet.com (Wayne and Nadine Foster)
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #213
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 23:26:41 -0400
>From: "penny"
>Subject: crush sleeve
>To:
>
>thanks for the recent response to this prob.saturday I ordered a new crush
>sleeve from Mike Erdman Toyota for a mere $19.00 should be here wed. or
>thurs.Does any-one know how (backyard style) to set ring and pinion
>depth?Im not too concerned with long wear because my truck needs different
>gears anyway....(35s,4.10s luckily theres not many hills in florida) Still
>need torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold the carrier to housing
>(yep,shoulda used a torque wrench when I took it apart) Thanks again....
Penny if you havn't changed the gear set and all you are changing is the
bearings you dont really need to set the pinion depth. The backlash should
be set between .006 and .015. There is a science to setting up gears but
this should get you by.
As to bearing cap torque I usually use my 1/2 drive impact gun. I use it
every day all day long it becomes second nature.
Be sure that the adjuster ring is properly threaded in the housing and cap
before you tighten the cap bolts up. You should be able to turn the adjuster
after the cap is tight, also be sure to lube the threads of the adjuster and
the outside surface of the bearing race. The carrier bearings need a little
"crush" or preload as well.
There is a special tool that fits into the holes of the adjusters , tool
dealers like Mac or Snap-on sell them. The hammer and screwdriver method
makes me cringe ;(
FOZZY from the Island Rock Crawlers
P.S next year we need more Toyota trucks at our IRC trail jamboree , the
J**P to Toyota ratio was dissapointing this year.
FOZZY
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 18:21:40 -0400
From: WartHog
Subject: crush sleeve
To: purnrgy@quancon.com
penny wrote:
>
> Thanks Jay for the advice about my set-up.I assembled it,but i cant get
> that new crush sleeve to crush -what im saying is with 225 ft pds.on the
> pinion nut there is still maybe 2/16ths in. play if i grab the companion
> flange and push/pull it.
I reciently reassembled a ford 10.5" floater rear. Yes, getting the
sleve to start crushing was a bitch. I was real tempted to use the
impact.
However, the difference between feeling slop in the pinion and Lots of
pre load ( 30+- inlbs ) was maybe 3/16 - 1/4 turn of the pinion nut. I
would have certantly have passed the point of preload with the impact.
It would be worth the cost of renting a in/lb wrench from the local tool
rental, turning the nut till there was little ( just perceptable ) slop
left in the pinion. Take a running torque measurement, add the rated pre
load measurement, and turn the nut till this figure is achieved.
As a note, during resaaembly, I experamented with slop in the pinion. I
found that misalignment of the pin and ring added lots of additional
free turn torque. so, you want the pinion with as little slop as
possable when taking the running torque measurement.
Mark
------------------------------
Date: 29 May 1997 15:44:33 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: crush sleeve
To: " " , "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 3:35 PM
OFFICE MEMO crush sleeve Date: 5/29/97
"penny" wrote:
>Thanks Jay for the advice about my set-up.I assembled it,but i cant get
>that new crush sleeve to crush -what im saying is with 225 ft pds.on the
>pinion nut there is still maybe 2/16ths in. play if i grab the companion
>flange and push/pull it. WHAT A PITA!!! Should I stick a cheater bar (long
>pipe) on and keep cranking? oh yeah im not on real time mode please send
>any response to me . purnrgy@quancon.com as well as to the digest. thanx...
The crush sleeves can be a little tricky. They are a real pain
to get started. It takes a lot of pressure to start the crush
but then you have to back off and go slow as the sleeve will
collapse more easily after the initial movement.
It sounds like you haven't compressed the sleeve yet if you
still have play. They are really tight. If you take a look at the
old sleeve you can see how they move as they crush.
I would go for the cheater bar.......unless you have something
assembled wrong and you are bottoming the nut somehow.
I've always had to use a 1/2" breaker bar and cheater pipe
with someone else hanging onto a bar bolted to the third
member flange.
Good luck.
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY) '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:56:04 -0500
From: Steve Capuano
To: barney@flowpoint.com
Subject: lockright
Barney, the ease of installation was quite remarkable on my lockright.
The instructions were quite informative as well as the dealer's
generosity to photocopy the section of the catalog that tells about r/p
setup.
Lemme know and maybe I can get some copies made of my Lockright manual.
Its quite thick though. About 20 pages of 3x5" paper.
See Ya
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
-------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 21:29:37 -0500
From: Steve Capuano
Subject: HELP!!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
It only comes out from one side only. Look for the side that is peened
(should be to the outside) and hammer it (the retaining pin) from the other
side.
Steve Capuano 1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
capuano@hypercon.com 31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
Rear LockRight K&N filter
NRA lifetime member Dynomax 2.5" cat back Synthetic all around
Headers are next on my list. Oh also a free flow cat!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 17:48:28 -0700
From: Brandon Miller
Subject: HELP!!
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"
> Do you remember removing the pin? did you hammer it out with a pin
> prick? My instructions start at the point of the locker install, no
> mention of removing the spider gears . It reminds me to put the pin back
> on reassembly. thanks for the help. oh yea, there is a particular
> direction that the pin comes out isn't there? i'm moving the pin toward
> the ring gear side as the othe side seems to have a taper to it. Rob
> Boyle
Have you got it yet? I remember the trick now. Yes there is definately
only one direction to get it out, seems to me it was from the ring side
out the other side. It was impossible when I tried the other way but
worked when I finally went the right direction.
- --
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Brandon Miller email: sac78483@saclink.csus.edu
Sacramento, CA millerb@gaia.ecs.csus.edu
url: http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb/4x.html
1983 Toyota LB locked F&R, 5.29:1 gears, roll cage, etc. etc.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 10:34:02 -0600
From: Tony Bartlett
Subject: HELP (ez-locker install)
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Aren't those pins your talking about installed and removed from one
side. They will only come out one direction and back in the where it
came out (if I remember correctly)
Tony.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 23:29:05 -0600
From: loki@crestedbutte.net
Subject: EZ locker
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Mission acomplished!!!! my locker is finaly in, and seems to be working
fine. It really was pretty easy outside of my problem with the pin. I
think this is a sign i need to get a better manual. my chiltons didn't
go into this area at all. In a shop with the right tools and and the
right manual its probably a breeze. some things were a bitch for me,
working solo on my kitchen table and putting every thing back together
by lamp light. As Jim suggested to me a vise will make a big difference
when working on the carrier, I got by without one but had a tough time
torqueing things loose with it on the table. I probably should have
waited till the weekend, but I thought I could do it after work with the
long summer days and all.
Sometimes wrenching feels like an extreme sport. That rush you get as
you dive into a project and the soothing high that follows a succesful
project. It was the same feeling I get when skiing black diamonds, or
rafting class 5. And that feeling of getting stuck half way through the
install was quite simalar to that of falling on a black diamond.
Oh and by the way, the pin exited toward the center, while hammering
with the ring gear side up.
thank you everyone who helped, Jim your concern about me was above and
beyond the call of duty. thanks a whole lot
Rob Boyle 85 4runner 4'' procomp lift, downey superclutch,
33-12.5 BFG MT's and EZ-LOCKER!!!!!!!!!!rear
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 07:57:24 -0600
From: Rob Boyle
Subject: diff. ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
penny wrote:
>
> What is the easiest way to remove the cross-shaft from a differential
> carrier? ( the part that holds the spider gears in ). I can see a pin that
> holds it in place but im not sure how to get this -pin- out. Should I take
> a punch and drive it out? Does it come out the ring gear side? Thought it
> would be better to ask someone who has already done this before. BTW the
> reason Im removing it is because my lock-right should be here in a couple
> days and from what I understand is it replaces the spider gears. Thanx in
> advance.. please respond to me directly as well as to the list because im
> not on real time... oh yeah this is an 82 4cyl 8" diff. Jimmy
> 82Toy4x4 L.B.
> purnrgy@quancon.com
> http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
Jimmy, be glad you asked. the pin only comes out one direction. I cant
remember if it was toward the ring gear or not. it came out the side
that was peened over and not quite round. do a search under EZ locker
and you find my recent experience with the pin. I'd get some marking
compound to make sure you reassemble correctly. a dial gauge would be
nice too, for checking before and after backlash. you have to take the
ring gear out to get the locker in. I understand locktite is recomended
for ring gear bolts, I dont know what they are supposed to be torqued
to. Oh yea, get or borrow a vise! it can be done without but is quite
frustrating. you are allready ahead of the game though, knowing which
dirrection to beat that damn pin. BTW my springs from 4wpw are getting
quite squeaky and have settled down half an inch out of level. feel free
to email me direct if I can be of further assistance.
Rob Boyle
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 09:45:40 -0500
From: Steve Capuano
Subject: diff. ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:12 AM 8/31/97 -0400, you wrote:
>What is the easiest way to remove the cross-shaft from a differential
>carrier?
it only comes out one way. I believe the holes are of different diameters
and the smaller is for removal. Stick a nail or punch in the small hole and
teh pin pushes right out.
At least on my Taco it was like that.
Steve Capuano 1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
capuano@hypercon.com 31x10.50x15 Wrangler RT/S
Houston, Texas Rear LockRight K&N filter
Dynomax 2.5" cat back Synthetic all around
NRA lifetime member Edelbrock headers
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 15:31:29 -0400
From: Sheldon
Subject: 4.10 Gears
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Okay....
If I want to switch back to my stock Toy 4.10 gears what do I use for a
crush sleeve??
I'm sure others have seen stock setups and that sure isn't a crush
sleeve, more like a spacer with shims.
Can I reuse the spacers and get a pack of shims from Toyota?
Of course my local Toyota dealership can't tell me squat as usual,
"they can always tell me the price on things though ;-)".
Sheldon
83ToY4x4
sgard@flnet.com
http://www.flnet.com/~sgard/
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 10 Jun 1997 16:00:10 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: 4.10 Gears
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 3:46 PM
OFFICE MEMO 4.10 Gears Date: 6/10/97
Sheldon wrote:
>If I want to switch back to my stock Toy 4.10 gears what do I use for a
>crush sleeve?? I'm sure others have seen stock setups and that sure
>isn't a crush sleeve, more like a spacer with shims.
>Can I reuse the spacers and get a pack of shims from Toyota?
The earlier years used a cast iron sleeve plus shims. You can just
reuse the sleeve and shims as I believe they should be sized to
correctly preload a bearing set to your third member housing.
Double check me on reusing the exact same shim stack.....
Yes, you can buy more shims at Toyota or elsewhere.
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY) '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
________________________________________
------------------------------
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