Differential Gasket Change
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Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:03:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Leroy Andersen
Subject: Differential gasket change
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I noticed a puddle of gear oil below the rear diff. of my 'new' 1985 truck,
so I thought I better replace the gasket before I start driving it around.
So, I read up on the procedure necessary to do the job. Whew! All the work
involved to replace a $2.50 thin paper gasket - pull rear wheels & drums,
remove e. brake cable & brake line, pull axles out, drop driveline, then
pull diff. carrier out, etc.
My question (after losing about half of my brake fluid), does anyone have a
good way to stem the flood of brake fluid from the lines when you remove
them from the back of the wheels? (for future reference)
Also, after doing all that work, I have to wonder if that thin little gasket
will not leak as soon as I put it back together. Does anyone have experience
with this? Did you use any FIPG, or similar substance?
_____________________________________________________________
Leroy Andersen 1985 SR5 Short Bed 4x4/22RE
Citrus Heights, CA 136,000 Miles, RS 5000's,
andrsen@ns.net Cold A/C (Calif. requirement)
http://www.ns.net/~andrsen/
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Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:39:57 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Differential gasket change
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Leroy Andersen wrote:
> My question (after losing about half of my brake fluid), does anyone have a
> good way to stem the flood of brake fluid from the lines when you remove
> them from the back of the wheels? (for future reference)
>
> Also, after doing all that work, I have to wonder if that thin little gasket
> will not leak as soon as I put it back together. Does anyone have experience
> with this? Did you use any FIPG, or similar substance?
I like to use rubber vacuum caps/plugs available at most auto parts
stores. They fit perfectly on the flare nut and stop the constant drip
of brake fluid until you are ready to reconnect the lines. Be sure to
bleed the rear brakes before the test drive!
Some folks I know just use a gasket maker instead of the gasket. I like
to take the extra steps and fit a gasket with some black Permatex. With
FIPG, you really need a surface that is grooved for an o-ring or a
gasket channel (like the rubber 1/2 moon plugs for 22R** V/C gaskets).
Permatex Super Weatherstrip Adhesive works good too, if you're not the
one who has to possibly dissasemble the diff. later, unless you are good
friends with your gasket scraper, that is.
Make sure the gasket surfaces of the diff. and axle housing are clean
and free of any old gasket/adhesive. Glue both sides of the new gasket
and torque the nuts down evenly.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
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Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 09:38:16 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Differential gasket change
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"
Jim Brink (master of all things Yota) sez:
> Some folks I know just use a gasket maker instead of the gasket. I like
> to take the extra steps and fit a gasket with some black Permatex.
I dunno about what he uses, but there is some Permatex stuff in a brush
bottle (Permatex 300) that I use on paper gaskets that works great. It
also does NOT come off yer hands very easy. Its very flexible.
I dont recall having any trouble getting it off of metal surfaces
that were clean to begin with. I recall that the gasket actually
peeled off easier after being in use and coated with Permatex 300 than
ones that were put in "bare".
Also - on that FIPG stuff. The Permatex "Import Grey" gasket maker
claims to be OEM compataible with the Yota FIPG stuff and even
cross references the Yota part number on the packaging!
EWong
(wondering when the cheapie U joint is gonna blow - but carrying a
spare Spicer one and hammer just in case!)
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Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 11:23:20 -0700
From: "Victor Sery"
Subject: Diff Gastget Change
To:
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 17:03:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Leroy Andersen
Subject: Differential gasket change
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
There is an easier way.....
You dont have to remove the wheels....... Unbolt the four retaining bolts
on each and slide the whole unit back far enough to get the axles out of
the diff, and unbolt the diff..
Vola.. the diff is out on the ground.
The diff can be changed in about 20 min driving down the road.
I have done this many, many times and have never broken a brake line, it
sure makes it easier.
Hope this helps
Vic
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Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 23:34:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Diff Gastget Change
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I don't see how you manage to do this without breaking apart the break lines.
I have personally done the change about 20 times or so, and I would love to
know your "secret"
David
DRM033@aol.com
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