Front Wheel Bearing R&R
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Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 09:22:37 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings
To: " - (052)ej (a) animal.blarg.net"
Eric:
The first time its a bear - I took my time and it was an all day job
(uh - painting the brake dust shield and other parts did take up much of
that time)
Dont forget the brass bar for driving out the races.
What many dont know - is that bearings are "universal" to some extent.
As long as its a reputable suplier - they should be OK
(i.e. - dont bother with the dealer for "yota" bearings - they are all
the same)
Also go back and look up the "cone lock washer" stuff about getting the
manual hubs off.
I haven an 88/89 4Runner - which uses 86-88 type parts
Inner bearing
race - 4T-JLM104910PK
bearing - 4T-JLM104948PK
Outter bearing
race - 4T-LM102910
bearing - 4T-LM102948
Ive had good luck with Timken brand bearings.
Congrats on finishing *gradual* school
EWong
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Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 10:53:59 -0600
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>Well, I finally finished grad school (last night!), so I'm going to have
>some time to get to some projects on the 4runner.
Congrats !
>My most annoying current problem is a vibration in the front end that I'm
>80% sure is the left wheel bearings. I've never replaced or repacked the
>bearings myself before, how tough is this? (how many bananas? :) I think
>I've got all the necessary tools, including a spindle nut wrench, torque
>wrench, and the factory manual. I've got 140k on this bearing, I'll
>probably just replace it rather than repack it. Is there a brand or type of
>grease anyone recommends? What all do I need to do a complete job on one
>side? I assume theres an inner and outer race and bearing, and a seal or
>two. Anything else?
Tools you'll also need:
- A large brass punch or 1/2"x1/2" piece of steel 4-5" long
- A brass punch to drive the races out.
This is about a 1.5-2 banana job .... Opposable thumbs only, no need
to communicate abstract ideas to other Shade Tree Howler Monkey's ...
I'll detail it out how *I'd* do it.
Start by getting a Cool Whip container or something to hold the nuts/bolts
in.
- Jack up the wheel to be worked on
- Take tire/rim off the truck
- Remove the 2 caliper bolts and either disconnect the brake line from
the caliper or support the caliper so that the brake line is not
too distorted.
- Unscrew the 6 bolts holding the locking hob dial on (this is assuming
you have manual locking hubs). Pull the hub dial off.
- Unscrew the six nuts holding the hub body on out till they're flush
with the ends of the studs. Then take your brass drift or steel bar and
place it on the ends of the studs/nuts firmly with a hammer, This
is to remove the cone washers that are holding the hub body on. Give
it 2-3 firm blow then rotate the hub and hit the next. Don't just wail
on them, but hit them firmly. If you haven't ever had them off, it might
be good to start a few days early by coating the studs with WD40 in
case the cone washers are rusted in place. They can be a bear
to remove on some trucks. Just don't think that hitting the
hub body on the outside and deforming it will do you much good over
the life of the truck. Remove all 6 cone washers.
- On IFS trucks remove the screw from the end of the axle, on solid
axle trucks remove the lock ring from the end of the axle shaft.
- Pull the hub body off
- Beat the tabs of the lock washer back that are holding the outer
spindle nut in place.
- Remove the outer spindle nut.
- Remove the lock washer.
- Remove the inner spindle nut.
- At this point, I usually grab the brake rotor firmly and just pull
the whole assembly off the spindle and try not to dump the outer bearing
out on the ground when it comes off the spindle.
- Then remove the outer bearing from the hub and the washer that
presses against the outer bearing.
- I have a seal puller that I use to remove the seal that holds
the inner bearing in. In past years I've turned the hub up and taken
a piece of wood and tapped the bearing/seal out the back side. Be
careful doing this if you're planning on re-using that bearing as you
can damage it easily.
- - Now that you've the hub completely disassembled. It's time to get the
races out of the hub body for the bearings you want to replace. I use
a 1/2" x 1/2" brass bar. It's sortof tricky getting those races out since
there isn't a very large surface of the race to hit on. Just hit a little
on this side, a little on that, side, going back and forth and it'll
come out. I'd defintely use a brass *something* ...
- - Then I'd clean/paint the hub while you've got it this far disassembled.
- - Drive in the new race(s) in the same manner as removing the old race.
- - Pack new inner bearing, put in inner bearing
- - Drive in new seal
- - Pack outer bearing
- - Either put outer bearing into it's race and slip whole unit onto
spindle or slip unit on spindle then put outer bearing in. Be careful
not to dump new/clean outer bearing on ground when putting it on spindle.
(I've done this ...)
- Put washer with tit for slot in spindle on
- Put inner spindle nut on
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. Lbs.
- - Put on locking tab washer
- - Screw outer spindle nut on till it's fairly tight
- - Bend one tab on the locking tab washer forward onto the
inner nut and one outwards onto a flat side of the
outer nut.
- - put locking hub body on
- - put cone washers and nuts on studs (coat the cone washers with
anti-sieze so that the next time you do this, the cone washers will
just pop right out with one blow)
- - Either put the screw back into the end of the axle or install the
lock ring depending if you have an IFS or solid axle truck.
- - Install hub dial and it's 6 screws ...
- - Blast the brake rotor down with an ozone depleting blast of brake cleaner.
- - Bolt caliper back up. and reattached brake line if it was disconnected.
- - put tire/rim back on
That should about do it. That's all from memory ... I've done this
a few too many times .... If you don't paint the hub, it's about a
2-2.5 hr job ...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 05:12:55 -0800
From: cruiser@akcache.com (Whatley,Mark)
Subject: need wheel bearing help
To: tlcal@tlca.org, blaw405@aol.com
Clipped from pevious post....
"Help! My 82 FJ60 suddenly developed a front wheel bearing problem.
I was about to turn into my driveway this evening when I heard an
unusual squeaking noise. After determining that it wasn't engine
related, I tried pushing the truck and found the sqeak to be in
the pass side front. I put it in the driveway and jacked up the
front end. The pass side wheel has noticable vertical play while
the drivers side has no play at all.
I called up a local garage, who has done reasonable work in the past.
They rec rebuilding the trunions as well as replacing the bearings on
both sides - about $550 including 8 hours work. Also he rec'd towing
to the garage to avoid damaging the spindle.
A second shop rec'd a simple repack job, replacing whatever bearings
need replacing. 145$ plus parts.
What should I do? The truck has 104K miles on it and I don't know if
the bearings have ever been serviced.
Bruce
TLCA #4889 "
First determine which bearings are bad. If the wheel shifts in relation
to the backing plate and caliper, it's the wheel bearings. If the whole
knuckle assembly shifts in relation to the axle, its the knuckle
(trunion) bearings. (If the noise is caused primarily from rotating the
wheel, wheel bearings. If it is caused by turning (steering) the wheel,
Knuckle bearings.
Either way, if it is so bad that you can see the improper angle of the
wheel, I would not reccomend driving it.
(Although if it is knuckle bearings rather than wheel bearings which
have failed, if you drive it gentlely, slowly, and NOT FAR, you probably
won't do any damage to the components. Safety would be a concern
however. If it is wheel bearings, you might damage a so far undamaged
spindle. If the spindle is already trashed, then once again if you keep
it slow and easy you probably won't do too much more harm, but again
safety is a concern.)
Check both sides closely for any shift, and be sure of exactly what is
shifting. I would expect that if you don't know otherwise, the bearings
have probably never been serviced. I would expect that there is a good
chance that both knuckle and wheel bearings are due for it. And if one
side has let go, the other is probably not too far behind (assuming
comparable care and maintenance to both sides, and no external force
such as impacts or damage to either side).
That really isn't that bad a price for complete front end bearing
replacement. Bearings and seals will run about $260-$270 by themselves
(at least in this neck of the woods). Also, make sure they go ahead and
replace the axle tube seals with new ones. It doesn't make any sense to
try and save 5 bucks on a peice that is this labor intensive to get
to...
The second shop wants to charge you $145 plus parts just to replace the
wheel bearings (and you aren't sure that is the problem/only problem at
this point).
Take a closer look at your front end. (BTW if it leaks gear lube from
the wiper seals when left on the jackstands over night, that's a good
sign the knuckle bearings are bad. Its usually not just the axle seals.)
If you're sure that it's just wheel bearings on one side then go with a
simple repair of the broken parts. But expect closer examination to
reveal wear/pending failure in the other front end bearings as well.
Mark....
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:21:54 -0700
From: Drew Eckhardt
Subject: need wheel bearing help
To: BLaw405@aol.com
BLaw405@aol.com writes:
>What should I do?
If some moron neglected to clamp the lock washer over the adjusting nuts,
you would be in a world of hurt. Yank the passenger side freewheel hub,
and see if this is the case.
In any event, yank the caliper on that side, unbend the lock washer,
remove the hub assembly, and check the spindle/knuckle assembly
for play.
If there's no play, you had a wheel berring problem. Take a look
at the races (irregardless of how things turn out, you'll need
to pull the seal on the back of the hub, and will want to replace
both it and the adjusting nut lock washer) and either repack and
adjust; or replace, repack, and adjust.
If you've got some play in the spindle/knuckle assembly, you'll
want all of the gaskets and seals for that side (I think it was
about $80 from the local Toyota dealer for grease & all of the gaskets
and seals for both sides), since you'll be tearing that side of the
axle appart.
Remove the spindle (you'll want to replace the paper gasket behind it
after doing so), rotate the axle until the flats line up with the
knuckle (you can feel for them with a screwdriver if you're having
problems seeing through all of the grease), and pull it. Remove the
seals on the back side of the knuckle. Remove the tie rod end
(using the non-pickle fork type of puller will keep the seals
intaxt).
Loosen the nuts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. Hit
the steering arms
right
| here
v __
_-| | <- knuckle
|__|
on the top, pretty close to the knuckle. The cone washers usually free
up after a couple of wacks, although you may have to take a hammer
and drift to them. Put a jack under the lower berring holder to keep it
against the axle housing, and use a brass drift on the bottom of the arm
next to the knuckle. Once you've got enough clearance on top, alternate
between there and the front lip of the knuckle arm.
To do the same for the lower berring holder (which you'll need to do
to shim for preload), remove the nuts, stand it on a board via the studs,
and use the drift through the middle (DON'T substitute a socket extension
or something else hard for the brass drift, because you may peen the
bearing cap over the bearing and be unable to separate the two). NOTE
which shims were on top and which on the bottom.
Take a look at the races. If they're dented and nasty, replace the
trunion berrings ($25 a pop). Throw the new rubber gasket and felt over
the end of the axle and adjust preload (subtract the same ammount of
shim from the top and the bottom, using thinner shims from the dealer
if you need to), install the knuckle without bolting on the gaskets,
and repeat until it takes about five pounds of force to turn the
knuckle). Bolt on the gaskets, replace the inner seal, and install
the axle. Now's a good time to fill the bottom half of the knuckle
with grease. Replace the paper gasket between the spindle and knuckle,
and install the spindle.
Reinstall the hub assembly (using a new lock washer), set preload,
install the freewheel hubs, reattach the caliper and tie rod end,
and enjoy!
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 13:48:21 -0700
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Some part #s for reference.
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"
I'm doing another wheel bearing job (I already did one side, now I notice
bearing noise on the other side) on my '87 4Runner with manual Aisin hubs.
I thought some of you might like the part numbers for some of the
non-reusable components:
James brink already provided the first two, which I've verified:
43422-60010 - one of the hub gaskets (hub-to-rotor i think)
43531-60010 - the other one (this one is for the cover i think)
You're supposed to replace the above whenever you remove the hub. Any idea
if these should be sealed with any kind of adhesive?
90214-42030 - 'claw washer' which is basically a thrust washer that bears
on the outer wheel bearing. Technically the manual doesn't say this is a
non-reusable part, but I've noticed it gets a lot of wear, so I'll replace
mine when I do the job.
90215-42025 - this is the lock washer which locks the two wheel spindle
nuts (the 2" ones) in place. This one definitely needs to be replaced
because you have to bend some of the little tabs on it against the flat
parts of the adjusting nuts.
YMMV, especially on non-IFS and non-manual-hub models.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
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Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 20:50:18 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Some part #s for reference.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> James brink already provided the first two, which I've verified:
> 43422-60010 - one of the hub gaskets (hub-to-rotor i think)
The correct number is: 43422-60020.
> 43531-60010 - the other one (this one is for the cover i think)
>
> You're supposed to replace the above whenever you remove the hub.
> Any idea if these should be sealed with any kind of adhesive?
Adhesive is not required but a little Permatex #2B (non-hardening) will
give a little extra protection against water contamination yet still
allow easy removal later on...
Jim
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 14:16:26 +0200
From: Jack Alford
Subject: 85 Front hubs
To:
Jay wrote:
>>>nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest) wrote:
>>
>>As for the rest of your rebuild, you'll be shocked at what replacement
>>wheel bearings cost! A good time to join TLCA and get your 25% discount
>>from Stevens Creek Toyota.
>
>Yes, but Timken or Federal Mogul bearings from a local bearing supply
>house are much cheaper.......and often USA made.
It cost me about $45 a side to replace my front axle bearings and seals
with Federal Mogul bearings, excellent bearings in my opinion.
- jack
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 21:39:30 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: lock nuts (bearings)front
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
BE99Capt@aol.com wrote:
>
> still trying to get to my bearings. what size socket do I need for the
> big lock nuts ?
> do i really need to use a bearing preload guage or can it be
> done by feel. i've always done 2wd by feel? oh yea '86 4runner....
The socket size is 54MM. You can also use the procedure found in the
repair manual using a torque wrench. Torque the adjusting nut to
18ft.-lbs. and check the feel. Works for me just fine. Suggestions from
others welcome...
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R/M5
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 32"BFG All-Terrains
(brinkjm@earthlink.net) LockRight/4.10 Gears
********************************************************************
TLCA# (Still Waiting)
FOMR
MRVMA/DESERT EXPLORERS
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 09:29:16 +0200
From: Jack Alford
Subject: lock nuts (bearings)front
To:
>The socket size is 54MM. You can also use the procedure found in the
>repair manual using a torque wrench. Torque the adjusting nut to
>18ft.-lbs. and check the feel. Works for me just fine. Suggestions from
>others welcome...
I use a 2-1/8" socket, cheaper and more available than a 54mm.
I torque mine up to about 43 and spin it around a few times, back the nut
off a few turns, and tighten it to 43 again and spin it a few times, then
back it off and then tighten it down to about 20-21 ft. lbs. I've done
this and even taken it back apart to see what it's torqued to after a
few weeks of driving and found it to be 18 ft. lbs. The bearing grease
(or at least the kind I use) compresses a bit more over time, this is
why I torque it just a hair more than the manual.
- jack
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Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 09:43:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Leroy Andersen
Subject: lock nuts (bearings)front
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack, what kind of bearing grease do you use? Is it "the best". I am going
to either re-pack or replace my bearings when I get around to replacing my
axle oil-seal. Is the dark gray moly grease any good, or have you had better
experience with other stuff? Anybody else?
_________________________________________________________________
Leroy Andersen 1985 SR5 Short Bed 4x4/22RE
Citrus Heights, CA 138,000 Miles, RS 9000's
andrsen@ns.net Rancho Springs/Add-a-leaf, 4.10's
http://www.ns.net/~andrsen/
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 16:06:22 +0200
From: Jack Alford
Subject: lock nuts (bearings)front
To:
I use Mobil-1, it's a synthetic, it's the only wheel bearing grease that
is NOT water soluable to some degree. All of the others are to some extent.
It's not cheap at $6 a tube but in my experience it's the best I've found,
but if you don't come in contact with water much, not sure if it's
worth it for you. I'm not a synthetic lubricant "freak" either, this is
the only place I use synthetic on any of my vehicles.
Last summer I spun a front wheel bearing en route to Placerville, CA
from Alabama and didn't have a spare spindle at the time so I pressed
on. Jay was there when I pulled it apart and replaced the spindle, he
can atest that the bearing looked fine, even as hot as the bearing had
gotten the grease had not broken down. Good stuff in my mind ...
- jack
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-----------------------------
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 20:02:19
From: Charles
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #262
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:06 PM 6/22/97 EDT, you wrote:
>Michael Stephens wrote:
>>
>> Bearings need adjustment? I don't quite follow. Please excuse my
>> ignorance on
>> this subject. What does a front hub wrench look like and how does it
>> work?
>
>Jim/Mike : Several months ago, I replaced my rotors (old ones had been
>turned and after many miles were "warped"), I had never, ever done any
>repair like this, so it was a bit of an adventure. Anyway, to my point,
>the preload adjustment was "tricky". Tricky because it was totally by
>feel. Try as I might, I could not find one of those recommended preload
>gauges that the Toyota manual calls for and specs to.
This may sound a bit funny but, I used an old fashioned fish scale to do the
job. It's the kind with a hook on either end. You hang the scale from a nail
or even hold it in your hand then put the fish on the other hook!
I placed on hook on a stud and pulled gently while watching the gauge.
You can get one of these from a Sears sporting goods dept. or walmart for
$2-5.00 that's a hell of a lot better than $32.99 (local parts store)
Charles Brooks
cbrooks1@mail.acilink.net
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 12:30:05 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: Toy front axle R&R
DRM033@aol.com wrote:
>So, since I plan to put in a Toy front axle, I have a few questions.
>I plan to tear the whole thing down for a rebuild, what are the recommended
>things to check, replace, etc. during this process?
>Also, what is th best source (price & quality) for these parts? Dealer or
>aftermarket?
>
>I assume I would want to replace all seals, bearings, and such - what else?
Just for info......my current front axle has 188k miles on it and it's still running
on all the original bearings. I've replaced all the seals in it once.
You'll want to check and possibly replace the bearings. There are four
king pin and four wheel bearings. Timken or Toy OEM....your choice
here. I personally prefer Timken. You can buy a front seal kit that includes
most everything to do the front axle for about $75 mail order at the usual
Toy dealers. Plus, you'll need two inner axle seals. I'm swapping over to
Mobil 1 synthetic or something similar on an axle I'm currently rebuilding.....
unless anyone can suggest something otherwise. Long ago I stopped using
the third member gaskets. They always curl up and are a pain to work with.
Wetting 'em helps, but I've changed over to using just RTV silicone in it's
place. Much easier to deal with.
The housings are quite stout. I'd just clean it up well and check it carefully
for any signs of distortion or cracking.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
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