Preparations For Deep Water Crossing

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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:06:51 EST
From: DRM033 
Subject: my little trail excursion, questions (long)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

I went to a local park with some trails this weekend.  We had several 4x4's:
my Toy, 4 Jeeps (one YJ -9"rear, 44 Frnt, locked F&R, 38's), a newer IFS Chevy
(38's)
The park is mostly mud and some smallish rock ledges, but the 3 weeks of rain
mad it extra fun.  Anyway, I was headed towards a mud hole to show the big
dogs in the group where they can play, and I get stuck in the front.  They
tell me to go ahead, so I decided to. 
Background: last time I had been to this hole several trucks went through, all
had 35+ tires and one with 33's lost a bead coming back through on the way
out. I did not try that time.
Well, I engaged the rear ARB and nosed in.  Big mistake.  I made it in far
enough to get the rear tires in, and that as it.  It was DEEP (read: halfway
up the headlights).  I was able to almost back out, but all of a sudden my
navigator/girlfriend made it aware to me that her floorboard was filling with
water - and fast( 3" at deepest).  I motioned to the Jeep behind me to pull me
out fast.  I had to climb out my window, hook up the strap, then squirm back
in the window and get out as fast as I could.  Once they pulled me out, She
opened the door and I actually heard a "swoosh" as about 4 gallons of water
poured out of the cab.  I would have stayed in there and tried a little
harder, but the computer being in the pasenger kick pannel got me scared fast.
Well, old blue started running real rough, and stalling on me (I know - she
was pissed I made her swim in that cold muddy water and get her carpet wet and
almost dunk her brain).  I checked the air box - water in the bottom, but the
filter was dry - whew.  Then it was time to pull the distributor cap - full-o-
water.  A hand towel and some WD-40 later she was much happier and purring
like a kitten.
Well, the starter was full-o-mud, and started not starting.  Did it Sunday too
so I took AutoZone up on that lifetime warranty.
So, now to the question part of the class...

Do Toy distributors mind being siliconed?
Is there any way to waterproof  the computer somewhat?
Is there anything to check to help the door seal better?(drivers door let no
water in)
Anyone seen a snorkel kit for a 90 Toy 22RE???

thanks, sorry so long

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
                      TLCA #5662
       Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club                     
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:15:38 -0800
From: Chris Geiger 
Subject: my little trail excursion, questions (long)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

> Do Toy distributors mind being siliconed?

I put a bit on silicone on my dist every time I have it off and it hold water
out real well.

> Is there any way to waterproof  the computer somewhat?

Yes, cut  the wires off from the computer connector and extend the wires so 
you can drop the head liner of the truck and put the computer up there. Vent 
the diffs, and trannys. up high too.

> Anyone seen a snorkel kit for a 90 Toy 22RE???

Yes, you can order one from 4WPW for about $350

Chris Gegier 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html

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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:25:59 -0800
From: Jerald Josephs 
Subject: Water proofing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Barney McNamara wrote:

> Andrew wrote:
> > How can I relocate the valve above the air intake?
>
> There is a good writeup on this at:
> http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4runner/cheap.html
> As well as info on my webpages.
>
> >And are there any other places I should worry about
> >water getting into below the air intake?
>
> Good question.

I heard that one of the better water-proofing policies was to ensure
that water was able to get out of whatever you were not able to prevent
water from getting into.

AIR:

Obviously, you don't want water entering your intake, likewise, you
don't want it entering your exhaust.  Lower torqued engines may stall
when the tail-pipe takes on water pressure.

Electric:

For serious water-mongers, you should consider soldering wires to
connectors.  For me, that is too extreme.  I prefer to ensure that all
of my wires are flexible and without any nicks.  I use plastic covered
connectors and then smear an electrolytic (sp?) grease - the stuff you
would lube the point cam-lobe in your distributor.

Fan:

I would consider replacing the stock machinical fan with an electric
fan that can be switched off.

- --
Jerald Josephs              Nokia - IP Routing (formerly Ipsilon
Networks)
jerald.josephs@ipsilon.com  232 Java Drive, Sunnyvale, CA 94089
http://www.ipsilon.com      Phone:  (408) 990-2000;  Fax:  (408)
743-5679

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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 16:46:08 EST
From: "james stevenson" 
Subject: Water proofing
To: aph120@psu.edu, toy4x4@tlca.org

> How can I relocate the valve above the air intake? 
 
You need to relocate all the breathers (Both Diffs, Tcase and Gearbox) 
Go down to a hydraulic hose fitting service. Remove one of the 
breathers, take it in and get a male and female host fitting to suit the 
thread. You will need one pair for each breather. You will also need a 
hose clamp for each fitting and 7 meters of tube to do the job. Remove 
the breathers, screw the male  fitting in where the breather was. 
Connect the tube and fix with a hose clamp. Route the tube to a safe 
location and attack the female fitting. Screw the breather into the 
female fitting. On my Toy I relocated the Tcase/Gearbox and Front diff 
breathers inside the engine bay. I drilled 3 holes in the lip at the top 
of the firewall. The female fitting goes below the hole and the breather 
screw down through the hole into the female fitting. The Rear diff I 
relocated to between the Cab and Bed. I made an "L" bracket to mount the 
breather in the same way as the front.


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Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 02:11:37 -0500
From: Andrew Hojnowski 
Subject: water proofing: thanks
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

Hi everyone.

Thanks for all of your responses to my waterproofing questions.  I am in
the process of water proofing as much as possible.  And if you were
wondering, I did have to replace the starter and alternator last fall.  I
hope there is no major damage to my gears or axles after running so long
without changing the fluids.  I just changed all fluids, and they seemed to
be OK.  No gear teeth came out with them, and the fluid wasn't white, so
I'm happy for now.  Thanks again everyone.  My webpage will be up soon,
I'll keep you posted.

Andrew>>85' 4x4, shortbed, 3"bdy lift, 31"tires

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Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:18:26 -0800
From: Jim Brink 
Subject: Water proofing and diff. breathers
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

Related to the diff. breather thread and waterproofing, I used OEM
Toyota 22RE intake plenum fittings for my differentials. The thread
pitch is correct for the diff. threads and there are two sizes that
accept either 1/4" or 3/8" ID hose sizes.

If anyone is interested, I will look up the part numbers on the fische
and post them. 

Perfect for the Toyota purists (and Brother Andys) on the list.
- -- 

Jim Brink

> Would any of you mechanical engineers out there like to engineer 
>a quick release fan clutch?
> 
> So, Can someone design a fan mount that has a mechanical release
> that will allow the fan to freewheel.
> Disengage the fan just before the water crossing.  Re-engage after. 
> Maybe a modified fan clutch?

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Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 21:20:18 -0700 (MST)
From: Buter Gregory A 
Subject: fan help!

        for water crossings iwas told you can drill a hole in each,(or
only 1), of the fan blades near the end of it.  the drill hole can be
about pencil thickness.  you can then turn off your truck (yes i know, lots
of trouble) and put a bungee (or a string) through the hole in the fan and
this will stop it from moving.  you can then drive through your puddles
and then unhook the bungee from the fan and it will start turning again.
i have not tried this yet, but it would probablly work.

greg
buterg@colorado.edu

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Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:55:44 +0800
From: "John Douglas" 
Subject: Fan Clutch
Guys

No need to get too technical on this one. Greg is right.

I have fabricated a small steel rod that clips into the outer edge
of the fan blade and is similarly secured at the radiator. The viscous
clutch then allows the fan to be stopped while crossing deep water. 
Real simple.

JD 

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 06:54:47 EDT
From: "Charles  Brooks" 
Subject: Re: water crossings??

>>So  If you crazy boys cross these rivers/lakes  and put snorkels 
>>on so the intake is ok....  What about the exhaust? 
>>Also what about the interior of the cab?  do the doors leak? 

Well if your exhaust is in the stock location and your 
stopped with it under water *DON'T* stop the engine! Once
you do the engine can't overcome the water pressure in the
exhaust to re-start. I know of a few people that have 
extended the exhaust up through the bed and added a little
flip top thing to keep out the rain.

Oh yeah, yes the doors leak  :) And if you happen to be
unlucky enough to thoroughly soak your bench seat, it takes
all weekend with the doors open to dry it out and even then
it leaves you with a nice aroma to remind you of your 
mistake,LoL!

Charles Brooks

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Date: Thu, 10 Sep 1998 11:00:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: Scott Ellinger 
Subject: Re: water crossings??

> So  If you crazy boys cross these rivers/lakes  and put snorkels on so the
> intake is ok....  What about the exhaust?  Also what about the interior of
> the cab?  do the doors leak?
> 
In my experience, the exhaust is content to blow bubbles.

And my doors don't leak, but all those drain plugs and other body plugs in 
the cab do.  Starts about three or three and a half feet deep.  But when
you've got an icky interior anyway, what's the problem with getting it wet
or muddy?  (I have yet to determine all the contents of the carpet in my
truck; the passenger side under the foot area is as stiff as a board :) )

- --scott
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