Differential R&R - IFS

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 20:03:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: twogrls@ix.netcom.com
Subject: IFS Ring and Pinion
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

From: Jonathan Miller 
Does anyone on the list have experience with swapping ring & pinion on IFS 
Toyotas? I have an 89 and I have already done the rear, but the front swap 
looks a little more intimidating. I  am not sure the best method for
removing the front half-shafts, etc. in order to get the 
pumpkin out.

Also, is the front pumpkin set up the same way as the rear, using the 
"screw-in" type adjustors to set the ring & pinion for correct backlash, etc?

Jonathan,

I know what you mean about the Ifs front being intimidating. I did mine about 
two months ago  after stalling for a week or so and some encouragement from 
friends I went at it and was suprised at how easy it was.

First thing to know is that the pumpkin comes out complete with the tubes as 
one assembly.

1) Drain gear oil and unbolt front drive shaft. ( hang it out of the way or
pull it y/c).

2) Unbolt the inner sides of the CV half shafts. note that on my 94 the bolt 
heads were welded to the brackets and do not turn. Found this out after I 
had the unit out and had busted One 17mm socket. Only turn the nut side. 
Hang the half shafts up out of the way.

3) loosen but do not remove the front bottem pivot bolt.
3a) Disconnect remote diff breather if you have one.

4) support the unit with a floor jack or blocks.

5) Crawl around under the unit and find all the bolts holding it up to the 
truck. I forget how many 4-5? One more than you think, bring a flashlight 
and look up on both sides.

6) lower the back of the unit.

7) Remove the pivot bolt and lower the unit back and out.

I took the drop out to a shop with my gears for set up abo $100, but I kept 
the cover and tapped the breather hole for a proper hose fitting. I used a 
two piece right angle fitting to keep the hose off the engine. Anyways I had 
a stuck bearing in the rear which turned out to be a odd size and had to buy 
a new bearing for the new pinion so after bringing the pieces to a shop and 
then finding out That I had a odd setup I just went for broke and paid for 
the front. But i believe the set up is the same front and rear. The set up 
kit and shims were simular.

Pulling and reinstalling the unit is much easier than it first appears, 
Maybe easier than the rear since you dont have to pull the tires and axle 
and dont even have to jack up the truck. I drove for about three days with 
the half shafts and front drive shaft held up tightly with rubber straps. 
I took it easy and live close tto work but I had no problems 
although I was a little nervous.

Go for it, its a 2 bannana job. I did not crawl under the truck to write 
this but dont think I missed anything. write if you have any problems. 
Usually pick up mail at least twice a day

Mike
PS love my new gears.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Mike Pelland				1994 Red Extracab Toyota
twogrls@ix.netcom.com		31X10.5 BFGs, Lockrite, RS9000;s            
San Antonio, TX 			4.88's,Downey SC clutch,
Tread lightly, TLCA Member, SWFWDA		Ramsey Winch, etc.
 http://pw2.netcom.com/~twogrls/mptruck.html
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

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Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 22:23:58 -0700
From: "Todd and Terry" 
Subject: ring and pinion swap
To: 

> Does anyone on the list have experience with swapping ring & pinion on 
> IFS Toyotas?
> I have an 89 and I have already done the rear, but the front swap looks 
> a little more intimidating.  I am not sure the best method for removing 
> the front half-shafts, etc. in order to get the pumpkin out. 
> 
> Also, is the front pumpkin set up the same way as the rear, using the 
> "screw-in" type adjustors to set the ring & pinion for correct backlash,
> etc?

When I installed my front EZ Locker, I left the half shafts, etc. in
place.  Coming out was okay, but to put it in I had to tap out the bolts
that go to the axle flange on one side to get enough clearance. They are
splined into the flange.
The front diff is set up with shims, not rotating collars.

Todd
87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR 26's,
RS 5000's, Ramsey F bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper,
Custom body by Sierra Nevada.

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Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 20:58:49 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: Removing front driveshafts on IFS?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Scott Rowin wrote:
> 
> 
> Have a basic IFS suspension - trying to remove the driveshafts from
> the front is a major pain.  I've taken the hubs off, the snap pins, bolts
> holding the driveshaft on (another pain - even with a good power tool).
> Anyhow, I've managed to get the driveshaft as low as below the bottom 
> studs - but that's it.  The angle's a bit steep, and so the front 
> splined-side isn't going to come out, and the mounting plate (diff side 
> of shaft) is still hitting the differential.  Not to mention that it 
> won't compress far enough to let it clear the studs very well.  My only 
> option now is to shift the front differential about 1/4" to clear - but 
> no book (I've looked through 3 good ones) mention having to do that.  
> The best recommendation was "play with it till it clears" - after an 
> hour or so I don't think its going to..
> 
> - Scott

Try jacking up the lower control arm so it is not in full-drop. This may
make the angle a little less severe. Works in the shop this way. Just be
careful not to lift the truck too far off of the jack stands.
- -- 
Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
					Stock 4.10 gears
					Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

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Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 22:49:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger 
Subject: Removing front driveshafts on IFS?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Try removing the left and right diff mounting bolts (the ones with 19mm
heads) but leave the front diff mount on. this will give you lots of free
play and will allow you to easly push the diff up and out of the way of
the shaft

Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html

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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:19:10 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Removing front driveshafts on IFS?
To: "        -         (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" 

While I understand the "pro" shop's need to complete work "quickly" when 
billing on the clock, us home mechanics are not under such time 
constraints.

I've found its takes just about the same time and is a tad easier to drop 
the front diff, or remove it completely. Its onlye a few extra bolts and 
really makes the whole alffair easier.

I recall installing the shafts to the axle in  the "drooped" position and 
then jacking the diff back into position - and the shafts already seated 
and attached (although not bolted yet)

EWong

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Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 23:14:02 EDT
From: ajbuzz@juno.com (ALAN BUZZURRO)
Subject: IFS AXLE SHAFTS
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

>I've found its takes just about the same time and is a tad easier to
>drop the front diff, or remove it completely. Its onlye a few extra 
>bolts and really makes the whole alffair easier.

>I recall installing the shafts to the axle in  the "drooped" position
>and then jacking the diff back into position - and the shafts already 
>seated and attached (although not bolted yet)

This is what worked for me. Tire off, truck on jacks, loosen tension on
torsion bar. 
Turn wheel so that the brake caliper is furthest away from diff. Pull
inner cv away from diff. and as far down as possible. Have a buddy jack
up the wheel via lower ball joint and continue to pull down on inner cv
joint. It should  clear about the time the axle shaft is parallel with
the ground. After a real battle with the first cv joint this method only
took minutes.


Alan Buzzurro, 90 Toy PU xcab, 32"BFG'S M/T,Lock-rite
f&r,Downey/Con-ferr/WCOR Suspension

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 22:03:06 -0700
From: Scott Wilson 
Subject: Rattling IFS
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Ken Emanuel wrote:
I remember this discussion in previous
> posts, but I didn't pay attention at the time--the discussion involved
> ball joints and control arm bushings.
> 
>    Anyone have the same experience or know of a possible solution.
> Scott, you did both jobs separately; what was the result of this?
>    Oh yeah, my truck has 163K miles on it.

In the past couple months I have replaced EVERY piece (that wears out)
on my IFS with the exception of the bearings.  

I also had an actual "rattle" when driving on wash board...that one
turned out to be the auto hubs.  It went away when I replaced them with
Warn Premiums.

When I replace my ball joints it stopped a lot of slop that I didn't
realize was slop in my suspension, and stopped the annoying 'popping'
when turning and anytime while wheelin'.

After the ball joints it became -plainly- obvious that the contol arm
bushings were shot!  They squeaked before, but now they were unbearably
loud.  I had them replaced (I don't recommend anyone to do this job
themselves!)(Unless you're Jim)  :)  and the ride noticably improved and
the squeaking stopped.

Cost breakdown:
Hubs - $120 
   Labor - $0 (did them myself)

Ball Joints - $145(w/TLCA discount) 
   Labor - $0 (did it myself)

Control Arm Bushings - $680   
   With 25% off parts and discount on the labor too.

Scott
- -- 
     _____       
    /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
   | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
   */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
    (_)   (_)      
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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