Heater Not Working

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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 05:52:07 -0800
From: "ward" 
Subject: no heat
To: 

Hay Bud thanx for replying,  yah, I checked and replaced the water valve
anyway from another truck, the old one seemed to work fine as did the
new-er one. I'm outta ideas man.............thanx,        Mike           

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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 09:04:05 -0500 (EST)
From: "Dr. Karl Bellve" 
Subject: no heat
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

On Wed, 17 Dec 1997, ward wrote:

> Hay Bud thanx for replying,  yah, I checked and replaced the water valve
> anyway from another truck, the old one seemed to work fine as did the
> new-er one. I'm outta ideas man.............thanx,        Mike           
> 

You said you replaced the heater core already? They can get plugged with
age, athought I only had one plugged and it was 20 years old at the time.
I just took it out and ran water through it.

I would remove all the antifreeze in your system. Put water in it, the
disconnect the hoses before and after the heater core to check for flow.




Cheers,


Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax  : (508) 856-1840

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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 09:23:37 -0500
From: Ed Ruf 
Subject: no heat
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

At 09:04 AM 12/17/97 -0500, Dr. Karl Bellve illustriously expounded:
>You said you replaced the heater core already? They can get plugged with
>age, athought I only had one plugged and it was 20 years old at the time.
>I just took it out and ran water through it.
>
>I would remove all the antifreeze in your system. Put water in it, the
>disconnect the hoses before and after the heater core to check for flow.

A trick I've used in the past is to disconnect the heater hoses at the
firewall and use compressed air to blow the slug(s) of water out of the
core if you think it's sludged up. Alternating between flushing and filling
the core with water and blowing it out with air. This was the only way I
got the core cleaned out on an old '65 Mustang I had years ago.

Ed

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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 97 09:41:33 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: no heat
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>> Hay Bud thanx for replying,  yah, I checked and replaced the water valve
>> anyway from another truck, the old one seemed to work fine as did the
>> new-er one. I'm outta ideas man.............thanx,        Mike           
>You said you replaced the heater core already? They can get plugged with
>I would remove all the antifreeze in your system. Put water in it, the
>disconnect the hoses before and after the heater core to check for flow.

OR simply take the garden hose, unhook the 2 lines to & from the heater core, 
plug them up so you don't loose all your coolant, and run water through it to 
check for flow.  Also, you might try back-flushing it (running the water in the 
reverse direction) through the heater core, if junk clogging up the ends of the 
passages this might help loosen it up.  - be sure to have the heater valve open at 
the time so water can flow through.  Alternating fwd/reverse flow through 
the core helps too.... re-hook the lines up and top off the radiator 
with 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water.

- - Brian

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Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 08:35:39 -0800
From: Barney McNamara 
Subject: no heat
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, ward@lemoorenet.com

Mike asked:
>O.k.  This ones kicki'n my butt,  Iv'e got an 80 that quit putting out
>heat.

Bud replied:
>my valve that allows water thru the heater core was stuck.

As I understand the system in my truck, the water flow starts out the
upper hose from the radiator, then thru a pipe going out the back of 
the water pump and into the intake manifold, then to a rubber hose to
the valve that controls the flow thru the heater core. This small pipe 
is below the thermostat so water can flow thru it prior to the water 
getting hot enough to open the thermostat. This allows the intake
manifold to be pre-heated and allows the heater to start while the
engine is still cold. (My little pipe was clogged with Bar's Leak
after the previous owner "fixed" his leaky radiator a few times.)
If the valve is open, the water flows through the heater core and out
the other side to another rubber hose and into a "T" fitting that
puts it back into the main hose into the bottom of the radiator.
You should be able to feel the hot water in the hose after it comes
out of the core, as it feeds back into the main system.

Another possibility is the air flow. The air goes through the heater
core only if the defrost-heat-bilevel-vent control lever is on the
defrost-heat side, and the cable is working. You can check this by
feeling where the air comes out with the fan on. If the air is 
coming thru the vents (in the dash below the controls) even when the 
lever is on defrost-heat, it is not working. Hot air will only come 
out the defrost (up to the windshield) or heater vents down near 
your feet. These levers control cables that work flaps inside the
heater box. (The Darth Vader helmet thing you had out when you
changed your heater core.)

Don't ask how I know all this stuff, just believe that I have good
heat ...now... and an after-market A/C kit that works OK, too.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed  
( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________

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