Oil Leaks

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Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 11:52:03 -0500 (EST)
From: BCSTOY@aol.com
Subject: Vanishing Oil
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

In regards to oil leaks and places to vanish it here is a recap:

1) Valve cover gaskets and the little half moons front and back of the cover.

solution: replace the valve cover gasket and if you cannot buy the half-moon
black gaskets put silicone underneath them, that should do it.

2) front seal and oil pump.

solution: pull oil pump assembly replace front seal and oil pump seal, use
silicone when setting the oil pump.

3) oil sensor

solution replace oil sensor.

4) rear main seal.

solution: this is a more expensive problem it will require to drop the
tranny to do it. Replace the rear seal, but in my experience the rear 
seal is not a common problem.

5)- oil plug, overtime the gasket in the plug gets worn out and a leak 
will develop.

solution: replace the plug or make a new ring gasket out of carb gasket.

6)- oil valve seals, overtime these seals dry losing their ability to keep
the oil from going into the combustion chamber.

solution: replace the seals, to do it the head bolts must be removed in the
factory recommended sequence when the engine is cold. Put compressed air
through the spark plug hole to prevent the valve from dropping in the
combustion chamber. Use an overhead valve spring compressor to change the 
seals one at a time. This should have a great impact on oil consumption 
reduction. Clean head bolts, replace the ones that show excessive carbon 
deposits and rust, and tight the head in the recommended sequence to the 
proper torque. Remember do not remove the head or the repair may turn 
from about $20.00 to  $300.00 or more.

7)- timing cover
Old 22Rs are prone to leak more at this place than the newer ones.

Solution: replace the timing cover gasket. To do it may require you to drop
the oil pan and do the change from the bottom rather than the top. At this 
web site people seem to have a problem doing it this way with IFS toys, I 
have not tried to do it yet, but to me is the more inexpensive way, since 
no critical adjustment is upset (timing gears, distributor ,etc), but may 
be more dirty.

8) oil pan, its gasket tends to leak overtime, more on older 22Rs.

soultion: replace the oil pan gasket, clean the oil pan very well, let the
oil drop for about a day and half, clean the lower bottom of the engine 
(crankshaft, inside of front and back covers) to prevent the dripping oil 
from contaminating the gasket. Use gray silicone to give the job a 
factory-like appearance.

9) piston rings and valves: rings and valves lose their ability to keep the
oil from crawling into the combustion chambers as engines pile up miles 
(100K plus). To diagnose this problem, check compression a 14% difference 
between the highest and the lowest is a bad sign. Add a spurt of oil thrugh 
the spark plug hole to the piston with low compression and test again. If 
compression goes up it means the rings are bad. If it does not then suspect 
worn out valves or valve guides or bad valve seals.

Solution: this will require a major engine work/ or engine replacement.


When trying to cure oil leaks attempt the one that are cheaper and easier to
do it first.  

This list is applicable to 22Rs only regardeless of the year.

I hope that this list helps, I have done all of them and they work if
approached systematically.

F. Ornelas
Phoenix AZ
owns 6 4x4 toys (82-86)
all of them are stock engine swaps that gave 
their previous owners big time problems

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 20:57:58 -0500 (EST)
From: BCSTOY@aol.com
Subject: Alaska Exhaust Laws, leaky oil pan
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Have you seen my previous posting on oil leaks. Check it out in the archive.

But here I go again,

Drop the oil pan let it drain overnight, you want to make sure that most of
the oil comes out. Next morning use carburator cleaning and spray the block
walls and the crankshaft, the goal here is to cut through the oil with the 
carb cleaner use towels to dry the mess up pay particular attention to the
back of the oil pan.

At this point if you want you may sand the casting of the block to help the
oil come down, you will see the lines on the sides of the casting sanding 
them prevent potential points of stress and eventual block failure.

Next lay the pan on a flat surface and check that it sits flat, if it does
not use the hammer to fix the low spots. Use also carb cleaner on the oil 
pan, check for traces of plastic that may come from the chain guides. Let 
it dry under the sun, then proceed to apply grey silicone (so it will look 
professional) to the pan, then apply silicone to the gasket side that will 
sit on the block. After this proceed to bolt the pan do it first to the two 
center bolts (middle) the ones with the 2 nuts, then bolt other 2 for the 
front and back, from then on proceed in a cross pattern until you are done.

Make sure that you do NOT overtighten the bolts, as a rule of thumb I use 
only one hand on the ratchet. If you see the silicone coming out over the 
edge of the gasket you are overthightening and is being squezzed out so 
it will NOT keep the oil inside the pan.

Once you are done let the silicone set for 3 or 4 hrs then proceed to add 
the recommended oil, and the truck should be ready to go WITH NO LEAKS.

I hope that this is not too overbearing, but thats how I do it, it always
works for me.

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 09:23:21 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: leaky oil pan
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Jonathan Albrecht  wrote:

        "...the oil pan has been leaking (in the
        front, where it mates to the block)...
        Later we filled it back up with oil, and
        started it...And it leaks like a sieve."

It's not the pan. I did the same thing a couple years ago. I took extra
care to make sure the pan was perfectly smooth, used 2 gaskets, lots of
Permatex, torqued the bolts gradually, everything. Still leaked.

It's the front crank seal. A $2 part that takes roughly an hour or two to
change. Good luck,

 - Nick

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 12:04:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: leaky oil pan
To: Nick Krest 

>         "...the oil pan has been leaking (in the
>         front, where it mates to the block)...
>         Later we filled it back up with oil, and
>         started it...And it leaks like a sieve."
> 
> It's not the pan. I did the same thing a couple years ago. I took extra
> care to make sure the pan was perfectly smooth, used 2 gaskets, lots of
> Permatex, torqued the bolts gradually, everything. Still leaked.
> 
> It's the front crank seal. A $2 part that takes roughly an hour or two to
> change. Good luck,

Hmm.. I think it may still be the pan though, because it was leaking about
1 drip per hour, and now it just about pours out (after changing the
pan).  Was that what your's did?

Also, about using two gaskets and Permatex, which sides of the gasket's
did you coat?  Is it really better to use two gaskets instead of one?  


Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 1997 21:04:15 -0500 (EST)
From: BCSTOY@aol.com
Subject: leaky oil pan
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

I mentioned all the sources of leak on my posting, you are right the front 
seal on 22Rs is prone to leaks but if it leaks it will make a big mess under
the engine and hood. Another possibility I forgot to mention is a hair crack
in the pan I found one in a buick awhile ago and since I got paid I preferred
to give the money back rather than do it again ( misjudged the problem, I 
blamed the gasket!).

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Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 23:18:59 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: leak checks
To: "        -         (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" 

Matt:

You asked about some spots on the ground and if they were possible signs of
head gasket failure.

Well - you could taste it - if its sweet, its probably antifreeze - and you
should go to the hopsital for ethylene glycol posioning :) :) :)
Also - see if the neighbor's dog likes it :) :) :)

Really - you need to take a look see at the engine itself - see if its 
loosing coolant.
Check under the oil filler cap to see if there is water condensation.
Check the dipstick - See if there is oil in the coolant.
Run a compression test
run a leakdown test
pull the head - o ring the block and add a turbo
(Whups - got carried away there)

Unless you are getting if fixed free - if no signs point to head gasket 
failure the it should be OK.

You know - it could be the water pump leaking or a split seam in the 
radiator (those seem to be common in this list)

EWong
______________

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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:47:19 +0000
From: sbever@jeffnet.org
Subject: oil leak
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Steve Capuano 

>Went to the muffler shop to get an opinion and estimate, while on the rack I
>was looking at my engine for signs of leaks or anything out of the ordinary.
> 
>Guess what...got a leak already, 20K miles, at the starter and bellhousing.
>Would that be the tranny (5 spd) or the engine. 

Doubt it is the tranny as this oil would most likely head right down the 
input shaft and then centrifugal on your clutch disc and pressure plate 
(although it would also hit the bellhousing.  Where the starter mates is at 
the block so either a rear main seal or mor likely, the valve cover gasket 
or the the valve cover half moon gasket is leaking.  Oil will drip right down 
the back of the motor into the bellhousing and then can be visible as it 
drains below (between the block and the bellhousing or where the starter 
mates.

- -- 
Scott

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Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 21:00:48 -0400
From: WartHog 
Subject: oil leak
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Steve Capuano wrote:
> 
>Guess what...got a leak already, 20K miles, at the starter and bellhousing.
>Would that be the tranny (5 spd) or the engine.  Its going to see the dealer
>tomorrow under warranty, but just curious what was the source of oil.
> 

My dealer told me my oil leak was from oil dripping down my 22re (20k
miles) block when I removed the filter during oil changes. I don't
believe him ( I could write a short story on Don Joseph's service
department. ). I power washed it two days ago and am going to check it
tomorrow. 

Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 20:13:42 -0500
From: Steve Capuano 
Subject: oil leak
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>My dealer told me my oil leak was from oil dripping down my 22re (20k
>miles) block when I removed the filter during oil changes. I dont
>believe him ( I could write a short story on Don Joseph's service
>department. ). I power washed it two days ago and am going to check it
>tomorrow. 
>
>Mark.
>

Luckily no way he could tell me that one since the filter is on the other
side.  Also, I am thrilled the gasket was in stock, I just hate parting
company with my truck for 2 days.  Thank goodness for company trucks to 
work out of.


Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com

NRA lifetime member

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Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 20:09:10 -0600
From: Mark 
Subject: Front Axle
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" 

Leroy Wrote:
>Jim, (or someone else in the know), I have ordered my Toyota shop manuals
>for my 'new' '85 truck, but since it is so old they tell me it will be
>several weeks until I receive the reprinted manuals. In the mean time,
>I am having to do some minor repairs without the manual, and need a little
>assistance.

Leroy,
The seal on the back of the steering knuckle is probably the culprit, it
is a PITA to remove.  You must remove the whole knuckle to take the
seals off, and while you have it off, the inner axle seal is probably
leaking too.  IMHO wait for the manual, or have someone else do it for
you, hope this helps.
- -- 
Mark Kitlinski
kitlinski@worldnet.att.net
85' 4x4 Xtra Cab SR5

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Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 22:21:21 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: Front Axle
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Actually, if oil is leaking down the knuckle housing, the culprit is the
inner axle seal, not the knuckle gaskets. These gaskets basically act as
dust seals mainly but also keep the grease contained in the knuckle. I
believe this can be done by a do-it-yourselfer with basic hand tools and
some patience. I would follow Mark's advice and wait for the manual. The
step-by-step instructions will help during reassembly--especially in the
outlining of the seqence of the placement of the rubber and felt gaskets
and metal retainers. If you do decide to go ahead and do the repair and
you need assistance, feel free to e-mail me.

Jim

- -- 
Jim Brink                               1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician         135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net                   32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
                                        Stock 4.10 gears
                                        Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

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------------------------------

Date: 1 Aug 97 20:51:44 -0400
From: "Karl Bellve" 
Subject: '85 with a problem
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

> Hi all!
> 
>     My neighbor has a 1985 Toyota 4WD with the 22R engine.  The truck has 
> 217,000 miles on it and has been spotless until yesterday--now the front 
> half of the engine is coated in oil.  The coolant is perfectly clean, and 
> there is no coolant in the oil.  The truck does not run poorly or release 
> white smoke.  I suspected the front main seal, but I can't really tell. I 
> just read a post about worn-timing chains eating the head gasket.  His 
> timing chain is shot--that I know.  Is it possible to have a blown 
> headgasket with the symptoms I described?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ken Emanuel
> 1987 Toyota Xtra Cab SR5

I bet it is the seal around the oil pump. They tend to let go and
spray oil all over the front of the engine. Very cheap part to
replace.
- --

Cheers,


Dr. Karl Bellve
Biomedical Imaging Group
University of Massachusetts
WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
Phone: (508) 856-3785
Fax  : (508) 856-1840

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Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 14:43:51 -0600
From: daves8@juno.com (DAVE SCHOENBERG)
Subject: '85 with a problem
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>My neighbor has a 1985 Toyota 4WD with the 22R engine.  The truck has
217,000 miles on it and has been spotless until yesterday--now the front 
half of the engine is coated in oil. <  Ken Emanuel

>>I bet it is the seal around the oil pump. They tend to let go and spray
oil all over the front of the engine. Very cheap part to replace.<<  
Karl Bellve

Cheap to replace is true.  It's a large, convoluted O-ring that fits
between the bottom pulley assembly and the front cover.  Take it to the
carwash and clean the area, then you should be able to start the engine
and see where it's leaking.  If it's actually throwing oil over the
underside of the hood, it's probably front crank seal.  If it's not
getting flung all directions, it's probably not that and more likely to
be the oil pump O-ring.  Do replace the front seal anyway if you go in to
do the O-ring (it comes in the kit). I've used Felpro and they're just
fine. I've had good luck over the years using orange silicone (not the
cheap blue or black) to seal between the front cover and crank seal. 
Make sure the O-ring mating surface is completely clean and smooth (a
little polishing with a clean rag is good), then dip the O-ring in engine
oil to install.  VERY easy to overtighten the bolts holding the oil pump
cover in place.  Use lock-tite and be VERY careful on torque.

Dave Schoenberg
Arvada, Colorado
'81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself
Wiring can be good for you!!

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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 20:03:54 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: 22R half moon plugs
To: Toy4x4@off-road.com

SStarner@aol.com wrote:
> 
>I just replaced both half moon plugs (and rocker cover gasket) on my 84
>runner (stock 22R except for a K&N). The John Muir manual I was using said to
>use hi-temp red silicone gasket sealer on the plugs. Now, dumb me I read the
>package the gasket/plugs came in and it says 'Important do not use any
>chemical gasket sealers when installing' or something to that affect. When I
>placed the plugs in their new home, it sure didn't look to me like they were
>going to seal very good. So I went ahead and listen to Mr.Muir and applied
>the sealer. So far, 1 week later no more leaks! My question is should I be
>expecting a problem later due to some weird chemical reaction between the
>plug and sealer?

Nope, I glue 'em all the time. I hate leaks (and so do people who pay
you to work on their vehicles). I use either the Toyota FIPG sealer or
the Permatex black RTV.

- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician
Manhattan Beach, CA
(brinkjm@earthlink.net)                        '86 Std.Bed/32"BFG A/T	
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ South Bay Roughwheelers / Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)

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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 17:33:18 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: Valve seals
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

robert bascom wrote:
> 
> Hi
>  I'm burning oil on startup in my '87 4runner. My dad says this is
> because i am leaking oil past the valve seals as it sits for a while. I
> don't have any smoke while i'm driving just for a few seconds at
> startup. My question is how hard are the seals to replace? Do I have to
> pull the head? My dad says my valves need adjusted so were going to
> check the seals then. I just wanted to know how much work this will be.

I would not recommend replacing the seals unless you plan to pull the
cylinder head to do it. In order to access the valve springs, the rocker
arm assembly must be removed. To do this, the head bolts must be
untorqued as they are used to fasten the rocker assembly to the head. 

I have seen more than one head gasket failure due to this. It is
possible to remove the bolts, then disassemble the rocker arms, shafts,
and stanchions, and reinstall the stanchions to accept the head bolts
and retorque the head--but it is risky. I don't even like doing this on
a newer truck, let alone one with high mileage.

Unless your oil consumption rises drastically, live with the slight
smoking problem until it is overhaul time.

- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
(brinkjm@earthlink.net)        
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:11:23 -0800
From: James Brink 
Subject: 2ND TIME tranfer rear output leaking
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

> On Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:28:18 -0600 4RUNNER4X4 <4RUNNER4X4@prodigy.net>
> writes:
> >LET TRY IT AGAIN A 2ND TIME.  SOMEONE HAS AN ANSWER?????  I HOPE????
> >
> >4RUNNER4X4 wrote:
> >>
> >> I NEED HELP,
> >>
> >> I have a 85 4Runner, the problem is the rear output on the tranfer
> >is
> >> leaking this has been a problem for about three years. Well this
> >what
> >> I've done so far.
> >>
> >> 1. change the output seal and bearing
> >> 2. change the rear flange and
> >> 3. sent the drive shalf to Six States Distributors. They balance it
> >and
> >> put a CV on it to cut down on the angel. That fix the vibration
> >problem.
> >>
> >> I took it out on a five mile test drive and it still throwing gear
> >oil.
> >>
> >> I'm hope that someone on the list can HELP.

I have seen a few different causes of leaks in this area:

1)  Worn seal surface on companion flange (Already replaced).

2)  Cracked extension housing at seal bore.

3)  Incorrect installation of seal or wrong seal installed (yes, they
are different front to rear).

4)  Leakage between extension housing and seal O.D. I always coat the
O.D. of the seal with a little non-hardening RTV to insure no leakage at
this area.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
brinkjm@earthlink.net     	
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)

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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:22:56 -0800
From: James Brink 
Subject: what causes oil burning?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

DRM033 wrote:
> 
> Someone described what it does when your engine is burning oil.  Well, mine
> has occasional puffs at startup.  What are possible causes of this and
> possible fixes?

Worn piston rings
Worn valve seals
Worn valve guides
Inoperative crankcase ventilation system
Overfilled crankcase

The PCV valve and hoses should be free of obstructions.
Make sure the crankcase oil level is correct. If too high, the oil can
foam in the cylinder head and run past the valve seals and down the
guides.

Worn valve guides allow oil into the combustion chamber. Soulution:
Valve job.

Bad valve stem seals allow the oil lubing the top end of the valves to
run down into the combustion chamber as well. These can be replaced with
the cylinder head on the vehicle.

Worn rings, well, major engine teardown and overhaul time.

Sounds like you have bad seals, from your comment about a bit of smoke
upon startup.

- -- 

Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Std. Bed 4x4
Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@Off-Road.com
********************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:00:56 -0800
From: Eric Johnson 
Subject: oil leak :(
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'" 

I seem to have developed an oil leak on the front of my 22RE. I've 
basically got oil all over the front of the engine, primarily on the timing 
chain cover, and it has leaked down onto the front diff, steering 
stabilizer, etc.

Any ideas how to narrow this down? Who are the usual suspects? I might go 
get the engine steam cleaned to see if I can find the leak easier. theres 
155000 miles on the clock.  I had the timing chain and head gasket replaced 
about 13 months ago -- its possible that I've had a slow leak since then, 
but I've only recently started to notice lower oil levels on the dipstick 
between oil changes.

At least maybe this means I'm not blowing oil past the rings or valve 
seals...

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
- --

- - ej@blarg.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:22:39 -0800
From: Jim Brink 
Subject: oil leak :(
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Eric Johnson wrote:
> 
> I seem to have developed an oil leak on the front of my 22RE. I've
> basically got oil all over the front of the engine, primarily on the timing
> chain cover, and it has leaked down onto the front diff, steering
> stabilizer, etc.

Probably the elusive front crankshaft seal. Clean the engine just to
verify the location of the leak. The oil pump o-ring also has a nasty
habit of leaking on motors with 100k plus miles.

Even if this seal was replaced during timing chain R&R, the crankshaft
pulley could be seal worn and in need of replacement or sleeved with a
Reddi-Sleeve.

Oh, BTW, I personally don't care for steam cleaning. I feel it
prematurely dries seals and gaskets. Use water and a good degreaser
instead.


- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html                      	
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)

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Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:19:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Eli Madden 
Subject: Oil Leak and Strange Noise - BOTH SOLVED!

Ever since I rebuilt my 22R I have had this weird whistle like noise
coming from the rear of the engine whenever I accelerate or decelerate.
Basically in time with the exhaust note. So I figured it was a leak in the
EGR system and I hadn't found it yet.

Day before yesterday in the evening I noticed a huge amount of oil beneath
my Toy. OH NO! I filled her up and made it home, using about 1 quart per
15 miles. Anyways, I found the leak and fixed it at lunch today and it
solved my noise as well! Yay! It was the bolts holding one of the EGR
fitting to the head on the passenger side rear of the engine. When the
bolts got loose and fell out, one of them started leaking oil out the
hole. When I put bolts back in and one nut (one is a stud with nut), I
solved the oil leak and my noise went away!

I'd love to "speak" to the engineer who put that bolt hole into an oil
passage (WHAP! THUMP! CRUNCH!). :)

Anyways, my Toy is getting so much better! I had the crack in the frame
welded this weekend (GREAT JOB, good price! 1/4" Steel plate on both
sides, from crossmember to crossmember, with cut-outs for the bed
supports and spring mount) along with my exhaust (holes in cat, bad joint
on muffler all welded up) and had my driver's door lower seam welded. All
for $136! 

It's now QUIET, RUNNING GREAT, NOT SPEWING OIL, etc etc. My work is
finally paying off! It's so nice to hit the gas and just hear the nice low
sound of power and nothing else. YES!

Oh yeah, here's a tip for dealing with dying clutch master cylinders -
if you run out of fluid and can't get the pressure back by pumping the
pedal once you fill it back up, go under the truck and move the slave
cylinder arm back and forth, it'll pump fluid into the line. Oh yeah, and
if you can't get it into gear, shut it off, put it in first and do a
clutchless start. Works great unless your alternator is dead (I had to
REVERSE out of traffic at a stop light and into a parking lot because I
didn't dare shut it off). And yes, I have replaced it!

Pretty soon I'll have EVERYTHING replaced and new!

Oh well, 191,000 + miles and 1.5 years of my abuse, it's to be expected.

Eli Madden
Middlebury, Vermont
'83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 w/ 31s, 3" front springs (sits level), '87 22R

------------------------------