Towing A Truck



Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:04:51 -0500
From: "Richard D. Springett" 
Subject: Towing an FJ40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

How do I go about "flat towing" an FJ40?  It has a bumper mounted tow 
bar, and I plan to drag it 250 miles.  Is it necessary to drop the rear 
driveshaft?  What about locking the steering? It is a 76', will this 
steering lock?
TIA
Rick (No longer the owner of a 93 x-cab, soon to be driving a TLC!)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 10:52:50 -0800
From: Charles OR Racheal Ritchie 
Subject: Towing an FJ40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

Richard D. Springett wrote:
> 
> How do I go about "flat towing" an FJ40?  It has a bumper mounted tow
> bar, and I plan to drag it 250 miles.  Is it necessary to drop the rear
> driveshaft?  What about locking the steering? It is a 76', will this
> steering lock?
> TIA
> Rick (No longer the owner of a 93 x-cab, soon to be driving a TLC!)

I would not lock the steering, It would make it hard to go around
corners.  Also check your locking hubs to see if you have lock-o-matic
hubs.  Personally I would remove both drive shafts.
- -- 

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------

Charles and Racheal Ritchie      TLCA# 4046  Mem. Carolina Cruisers
His 1974 stock FJ40   Hers  1990 Geo Tracker (prettier than a cruiser)
Land Cruisers RULE!!                                     (NOT)
                     jeep owners DROOL!!
                                         Everything else is JUNK!!!
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 12:08:11 -0800
From: Chase Gregory 
Subject: Flat-tow an FJ40
To: TLCA List 

I've towed my FJ40 only maybe 2000 or so miles, but have come to these 
ever-evolving conclusions.

IMHO, the best way is to REMOVE the rear driveshaft. You're only 4 nuts away
after detaching the rear flange, anyway.

You can put the tcase in neutral, 2wd or 4wd neutral, but that just
prevents the spinning of the transmission mainshaft. The transfer
mainshaft will still spin and and the high and low range gears will be
held still by the idler gear and transfer input gear. At best they may
drag along (if the transmission is in neutral) but not at the speed of
the mainshaft.

Of particular note: the high and low range gears are on bushings
not roller bearings - the bushings are not meant to experience a high
differential in speed between the mainshaft and the gears. At best it
experiences the difference in the ratios 1:1 vs. 2.31:1 - unless you
have Marlins! This is why I suggest removal of the rear driveshaft.

They experience a greater differential during PTO operation...that scenario
actually lubes better, though...

It's so simple to remove the rear driveshaft I don't even consider any other 
way.

Only tie the steering wheel if you absolutely have to. It is better to 
correct your front axle caster and let the cruiser follow you. It should 
follow you fine unless it has extended shackles and no correction shims. 
I've done it both ways and it's much nicer to have it follow you.

Make sure your tow bar is close to level with the FJ40 side slightly higher. 
This way when you slow down it pushes your back wheels down for better 
traction instead of lifting them up. Even so it can slide you around on 
gravel...another reason to make sure your caster is correct. And put all 
your tools and gear in the back of the tow vehicle for better traction.

If you're going to flat tow a lot, wire in a harness that'll plug into the 
tow-vehicle harness. Cost me $12.

Remember, you'll have no way to activate 'trailer brakes' so be careful on 
the steep stuff...

just another .02

- -- 
Chase Gregory
Project Architect
TMA Incorporated International
http://www.surfsouth.com/~tma_inc
'83 FJ60, '69 FJ40
TLCA #3071, ORD, TLCAL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 02:27:57 -0800
From: "Josue' Rosado" 
Subject: Flat Towing an FJ40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

TLCAL Listers:

Several previous posts have raised more confusion in regards to FLAT TOWING
an FJ40.

What I have done successfully for two years is the following:
	1.  Place the T-Case in NEUTRAL.
	2.  Place the transmission in the highest gear.
This will allow proper lubrication of differential and transmission.

To verify if your T-Case is in Neutral.  After setting the T-Case in
neutral and transmission in highest gear, start your Cruiser and let out
the clutch slowly.....if it does NOT go anywhere.....you're in NEUTRAL


##########################################

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Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 14:49:23 -0500
From: Babyruth37@aol.com
Subject: Towing an FJ40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

My experince with Flat Towing.  Bought a TLC without brakes to my
satisfaction, so I decided to flat tow.  I made a tow bar and had a Reece
draw bar.  I bolted the bumper on with Grade 8 fadteners and used a 2" ball.
 I used an '87 F-150 with a 6 cyl and many miles on the odometer.  Everything
went fine.  It sure is better the trailer towing.  Make sure the transfer
case is in neutral.  Avoid turning sharp curves especially from a stop and
forget backing up.  The Landcruiser my tend to push your rearend around in
slow manuvered turns.  Once at speed the mass is rolling and seems to go
along fine.  I towed mine about 40 miles and even got on I-40 at one point.
 I went 55 or 60 without problem.  Another area to be concerned with is the
lights.  My truck was wider than the Cruiser and the lights showed around it.
 If I was going to flat tow much I would rig up a light a wiring harness.
 Another alternative is if your TLC has a trailer light pigtail you could run
one from your tow vehicle trailer light hook up to the cruiser hookup and the
Cruiser's tailight would act just like trailer lights.  Good Luck.

Joe Turpin
Cruisin in NC

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 14:24:03 -0800
From: Cliff Daniel 
Subject: Flat Towing
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

Richard D. Springett wrote:
>
> How do I go about "flat towing" an FJ40?  It has a bumper mounted tow
> bar, and I plan to drag it 250 miles.  Is it necessary to drop the rear
> driveshaft?  What about locking the steering? It is a 76', will this
> steering lock?
> TIA

Richard:
No the steering wheel does not need to be locked.

About the rear drive shaft?

I have towed mine many hundreds of miles with no problems. That is after 
I learned the hard way about the function of my T-case. My first long 
distance trip flat towing the cruiser ended in some majoir repairs due to 
my ignorance. I put the T-case & Tranny in neutral, made sure the hubs 
were unlocked and went on my merry way. Unknown to me at the time, the 
front drive shaft is engaged as soon as you move the T-case lever from 2H 
to neutral. This effectively connects the front and rear drive shafts 
together & disconnects the case from the Trans. Now if you have perfectly 
balanced drive shafts with good U-joints this shouldn't make a difference 
at hiway speeds. Well I'm assuming from the damage that the U-joint at 
the case end of the front shaft was not up to the task. It looked like a 
grenade went off in there. When it came apart it shattered the shift fork 
housing, dented my exhuast pipe & skid plate, then fell out and hit the 
pavement at 55 mph. The resulting blow there pulled the front pinion yoke 
right off of the threads with the nut captured between the two flanges. 
Then of course the remander of the front shaft went dancing off into the 
weeds. The leak created from the shattered shift housing also spewed gear 
oil all over the underside of my rig during the trip home (this all 
happend about 100 miles out) Even though my drive shafts are now up to 
spec, I now remove my rear for towing. Not only for piece of mind but 
also to save wear on my 116+K drivetrain.

The moral of the story is:
Behold and praise the mystical mysteries of the all powerful U-jointis, 
if ye forsaketh the U-jointis and leaveth thine rear shaft in while 
towing, be sure thy Case is in 2H and thy Trans in neutral.
- -- 
Cliff Daniel "TWSTER" 77 FJ40 Sport/383 cdaniel@ix.netcom.com PHX AZ
TLCA #2605 - AzLCA Secretary/Editor
"Chrome won't get ya up the hill, and it won't get ya home"
And remember "You can always come home with more aluminum than you left 
with"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Oct 1996 08:04:51 -0500
From: "Richard D. Springett" 
Subject: Towing an FJ40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

How do I go about "flat towing" an FJ40?  It has a bumper mounted tow
bar, and I plan to drag it 250 miles.  Is it necessary to drop the rear
driveshaft?  What about locking the steering? It is a 76', will this
steering lock?
TIA
Rick (No longer the owner of a 93 x-cab, soon to be driving a TLC!)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Richard,
	I flat-towed my 1977 for 2 years.....went smoothly, but what a
"Pain in the A**", expecially if I should ever think of backing up.  I'd
have to unhitch the FJ40 and straighten both vehicles that way inorder to
get out....PAIN....PAIN...PAIN !!!!  Add to the fact that with
approximately 4-5,000 lbs. behind a pickup whose back end is really
light.....at freeway speeds of 55 + mph  if you had to make a sudden
stop......you'd better follow the 10 second rule of space between vehicles
in order to allow adequate following distance .....then everyone is jumping
in front of you and what a vicious circle of angst !!!!
	I installed a separate wiring harness from my front to the the rear
lights so I could simply plug in from my truck to the front of my
cruiser.....all wired directly to my turn signals and brake lights in
rear...all with a switch to "KILL" my front running turn signal indicators
so as not to shine in my face when I looked back in my side-view
mirror.....have an automotive electrical shop install this......unless you
have one of those good Cruiser Buddies that is a whiz at this kind of
stuff....that way you get it right the first time.
	If you have to flat tow remember the following:
		*  Transfer case is NEUTRAL; and,
		*  Transmission in highest gear (4th or 5th).
That way your tranny and rear diff is splashing oil to all moving parts.

	THE PERFECT SOLUTION, however, is using a car-hauler trailer with
tandem wheels and 4-wheel electric brakes.  I finally did this and .....wow
what a difference.  I purchased the all alumuminum Featherlite.  However, I
had to lift the trailer 4" to avoid rubbing every time I drove into a gas
station....not enought ground clearance.  Yet, I love the 7,500 gross
vehicle weight Model 3110 Featehrlite.  It is only 1,100 lbs. and will take
a 6,400 lbs. load.
	I set it up with a brake module and wiring to tow in each vehicles
(BOTH Cruiser and my '72 Chevy C-20, 402 cubic inch Bib Block) that way if
my Pickup breaks down somewhere,....I can put the truck on the trailer and
tow with my Cruiser in case of an emergency.  Hope this helps.




##########################################

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:11:05 -0800
From: Henry Brimmer 
Subject: TLCAL Digest V1 #96
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

Richard D. Springett wrote:

>How do I go about "flat towing" an FJ40?

ok... 1. i was told to get a trailer, but since i'm towing my fj40 with
a GMC 1976 rv, the additional 1500 lbs seemed unreasonable... not to
mention cost and storage space for the trailer...
2. i was told to drop both shafts... 16 bolts! but since i am lazy and
couldn't imagine doing this every 300 to 400 miles, i went ahead and
towed it as is!

|from san francisco to michigan this past summer, with about ten stops to
go 4 wheelin'... no problema! then in michigan it happened! the front
flange bolts got loose, the shaft fell... cracked the extension housing
and obliterated the shaft itself... ouch and many @#%&*!!!

i got lucky, called the boys at BTB in san jose and was told i was only
about 60 miles from Vic!
Vic who? Vic the owner of Hadley Industries -- a provider of used
parts... mucho cool dude! and very savy tlc wife!!! got parts and
help... needed also the casing for the front pig... so damage added to
$800.... and on arrival at sf, i found that the transfer case has a
hairline crack!!! (another $250 at least....

did i learn anything? yes! every second gas station on the way back, i
got under the cruiser and tightened the 16 bolts...

total milege of trip: 4,700mi

but you know what bugged me the most? the fact that it wouldn't track
properly! i can't tell you how many times i had to jump out of the rv,
get into the cruiser, start the engine -- it has power steering -- and
straighten the wheels!!! and this after reversing shakles!  only thing
left for me to do in this area is to shimmy the front axel... someone
recommended that...

does anyone have ideas on the tracking problem???

i'd appreciate hearing from you!

henry brimmer

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 10:44:25 -0500
From: Uklbn64@aol.com
Subject: Towing an FJ-40
To: LANCERO@worldnet.att.net, TLCAL@tlca.org

Hi richard,
     I am the owner of a "Trailer Queen" 'Cruiser.  I flat tow it or trailer
it most places because of the way it is set up.  I find it more comfortable
to ride in the tow rig rather than my highly modified 'Cruiser.(on the
highway)  The 'Cruiser T-case is a natural for being towed.  The output shaft
sits in gear lube and also when placed in neutral is isolated from the other
gears.  This means that the vehicle can be towed without any damage to the
case.  As far as the steering, DO NOT LOCK THE S-WHEEL!  The front steering
needs to be able to "trail" the tow vehicle!  The caster angle of your front
end will keep your wheels traveling in the right direction.  The only time
the wheels wont track right is when you try to back up.  This is from the
same caster angle, and what happens is your wheels will try to rotate around
but obviously can't.
To back up you need somone to manualy steer your 'cruiser while you back up.
 
     Another point to think about is your tow bar.  The flatter (parallel to
the ground) you can make it the less you'll be "pushed" around by your Toy.
 If you are running a stiff steering stabalizer (on the TOWED vehicle) you
might want to unhook one end and tie it up to keep it from fighting you. 
I hope this info helps.....I had to learn this stuff the hard way!
Good luck and happy traveling!
Kevin Ehrlick
Rising Sun, TLCA,
CA4WDCI, United, 
TREAD Lightly,
Blue Ribbon Coalition,
NRA, ...and yes I VOTE!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:03:51 +0000
From: "Mike Graham" 
Subject: Towing an FJ-40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> highway)  The 'Cruiser T-case is a natural for being towed.  The output shaft
> sits in gear lube and also when placed in neutral is isolated from the other
> gears.  This means that the vehicle can be towed without any damage to the
> case.  

  Does this mean that you do *not* have to disconnect the 
driveshafts?  You can just put the tranny and t-case in neutral and 
away you go?

 /---------------------------------------------------/

 
------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:35:39 -0500
From: Uklbn64@aol.com
Subject: Destroying an FJ-40 while flat towing
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!
    I have now found my keys and after coming back to my calm state of mind
realized that while I tried to clear up a problem in a previous post I
created a HUGE one!  DO NOT FLAT TOW YOUR 'CRUISER IN TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL
ONLY!!!  I can't believe I gave this advise.  Please Great Bullhead of all
lesser vehicles forgive me.  If you put only your transmission in neutral and
nothing else you will not get to far before transmission failure!  The
mainshaft will not receive proper lubrication and will over-heat!  I will
shut up now and try to pull my foot out of my face.  'Nuff said!
Kevin ( tail between my legs ) Ehrlick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 18:07:01 +0000
From: "Mike Graham" 
Subject: Destroying an FJ-40 while flat towing
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> created a HUGE one!  DO NOT FLAT TOW YOUR 'CRUISER IN TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL
> ONLY!!!  I can't believe I gave this advise.  Please Great Bullhead of all

  So what *do* you do?  Can we have a definitive answer?

  Maybe this should be added to the TLCFAQ?  Rob?

 /---------------------------------------------------/
------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 11:01:15 -0500
From: Uklbn64@aol.com
Subject: Towing a FJ-40
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

Hi all,
     I noticed that I overlooked something in my previous post.  I guess I
take it for granted that I can put my T-case in neutral without engaging my
front drive.  SORRY!  If you haven't notched your shifter guild plate on your
T-case so that you can shift into 2wd-low you will indeed be rotating your
front drive shaft.  You would probably be OK to just put the trans. in
neutral with the T-case in 2wd-high.  This will of coarse will create more
resistance to pull and also cause more wear on the input shaft bearings in
the tranny.  I think the easiest solution would be to notch your guide plate
or remove your rear shaft from the pinion and tie it up securely.  The shaft
wont rotate  if you leave the tranny in gear and the T-case in 2wd-hi.  If
however you do remove your rear shaft completely you would be able to drive a
short distance in 4wd-hi with just the front drive.  I realize that I
probably confused the heck out of several readers but thatM-^Rs only fair
because I'm a lost soul and I need help from the L.C. Gods to remember where
my keys are.............
Kevin (where are my damn keys) Ehrlick
...In the Brotherhood

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:27:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

In a message dated 97-04-17 04:17:00 EDT, you write:

>     I was flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab last weekend
>  behind our motorhome when a friend noticed that
>  the front driveshaft was turning (man. hubs, unlocked).
>  When I flat tow it I always put the tranny in neutral and,
>  because there's no *marked* neutral on the transfer
>  case lever I put it where I've seen "N" marked on other
>  Toys, between "4-Hi" and "4-Lo", confirmed by putting
>  it in gear and letting out the clutch.
>       When I got home I tried putting the transfer case
>  back in "2-Hi" and just the tranny in neutral and of
>  course, the front driveshaft didn't spin at all.

The driveshaft will pretty much always start to turn.  Vibration gets it
going and thats the reason.  There is force on this from the wheels.  Someone
else could do a better job of explaining this.....

David DRM033@aol.com

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Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:59:54 -0500
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Flat Towing
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

I don't believe it's vibration that causes this, I think it's the fact
that at least one gear in the tcase is turning (the rear driveshaft is
always spinning unless you disconnect it), this spins the thick gear oil
which causes the front driveshaft output gear to turn a bit. I've noticed
this when pushing my truck in and out of my garage. If you could hang under
the truck and drive down the road you would be able to stop the front
driveshaft from spinning by just putting your hand on it it isn't spinning
with much torque at all.

 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL

             '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
         Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
         SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:58:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Sam Houston
Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

In the N position, the transfer case connects the front and year output
shafts and disconnects the input shaft so you essentially have a 4N
position. Soooo .... if you keep the rear driveshaft connected, the front
will spin due to it's being directly linked to the rear output shaft.
Think of the shift pattern this way ... the left side of the "U" controls
the front drive selector the right side of pattern controlls the H-N-L
selector.

HTH

Sam Houston
shouston@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:33:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Flat Towing
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org


Yep, the fluid idea sounds much better that my vibration idea.

David
DRM033@aol.com

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 23:20:30 -0500
From: Kevin Watters 
Subject: flat towing
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

> Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 18:39:02 -0700
> From: "Michael Medart" 
> Subject: Another Flat-Towing Question
> To: "Toyota 4x4 (TLCA)" 
> 
> I know I asked this a couple of weeks ago, 
> but I have to ask again:
> 
> I have been flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab for about
> 3 years now (transfer case in neutral and trans-
> mission in neutral) with absolutely no problems

Toyota does not recommend flat towing at all but they say if you unlock
your front hubs, set transfer case in neutral, put transmission in
highest forward gear, and set key to "acc". Then the vehicle should not
be towed more than 200 miles and not over 40 mph. You probably can get
away with more than they say as they normally are very conservative in
their estimates. However you are probably starving your bearings in the
transmission.

------------------------------
-----------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 11:30:15 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Flat towing a Tacoma

I have never flat towed a vehicle for any distance so this is just my
understanding based on "book" knowledge.

When you flat tow something,the driveshaft spins the transmission -
which is the reverse of the normal process.

This means that the transmission *may* not get the proper oiling of
the gears and shafts.

One way to deal with this is to design the xfer and trans so that
proper oiling "via splash" is realized when the torque is fed
backwards from the driveshaft. This is complicated and expensiveto do -
but is do-able.

The "best" way to deal with this is to remove the "reverse" torque feed.
The first is to put manual hubs on the front. This prevents the front
wheels from feeding torque into the differential.
I do not believe that an ADD will do this properly.

The "free" fix is to disconnect the driveshaft at the diff. Hang it up
out of the way and cover the flange in baggies to keep the crud out
of the general area. Since the drive shaft should not be turning,
you can then just tie it up out of the way with cord or something.

Downey at one time made a driveshaft disconnect "device" that
attached to the driveshaft (custom driveshaft required). Probably more $$$
than the convenience was worth.

If you convert to a full floater axle - just pull the axle shafts and put
the
drive flanges back on to keep the oil in place...

EWong

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