Transmission Mounting Trick
-----------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 21:15:21 -0600 (CST)
From: twogrls@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Transmission mounting trick
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Here is a great trick for remounting a transmission. A friend was helping me
put my Transmission and transfer case in last weekend and showed me this
trick. We went to a auto parts store and bought extra bolts the same
diamater as the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine only as long
as possible. Then using a cutting wheel we cut off the heads and slotted the
end to fit a screwdriver just in case they were too short and we needed help
to back them out.
We then screwed these headless bolts (now long studs) into the engine to
become guide pins for the transmission. The transmission slid right down the
guide pins and the input shaft went right in. A little wiggling and it was
completly seated. After putting in a few other bolts the guide pins were
backed out and replaced with the origional bolts. I cannot say I ever had a
transmission remount so easy.
These three studs 8mm are now a perminate addition to my tool bag. the
clutch feels and works great.
Sorry I cannot draw this out for you but when I get around to creating a web
site I will include pictures.
Back on the road and off the Road, Dreaming of Marlin Crawler Gears.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Mike Pelland 1994 Red Extracab Toyota
twogrls@ix.netcom.com 31X10.5 BFGs, Lockrite
San Antonio, TX Ramsey Winch, RS9000;s
Tread lightly, TLCA Member GPS, Uniden CB, Hi-Lift Jack
12V Air, Custom Push Bar,
4.88's,Downey SC clutch,etc.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:58:46 -0700
From: Scott Muir
Subject: Re: Clutch/Tranny woes
Richard Aguinsky wrote:
>i notice that if i remove the boot at the clutch arm, something
>feels sort of loose in there. and if i wiggle the arm, the truck
>works fine. inside the clutch housing, it was full of oil and very
>dirty. so definitely i'll be removing the transmission.
Could be the little clip that holds the fork on the pivot ball is gone
>as i started removing stuff, i'm not sure how to hold the engine
>block, the manual states to put a piece of wood between the oil
>pan and a bracket behind the engine but there is no bracket on
>mine. how do you keep the engine from falling? i have the truck
>on stands on the front wheels.
I just used a bottle jack under the very back of the engine. It was a
little precarious, but since you have the thing up on stands it
shouldn't be too bad. I wonder if your manual is talking about the
stiffener brackets? Probably not a hot idea to use them to support the
engine.
>also, it calls for a sst (special service tool) to remove the
>stick shift.... and i can't even get the knob off! how do you
>get the stick out?
There are 6 bolts holding the plate the tranny shifter is in and 4 for
the transfercase shifter. They come apart very easily, however 1 or 2
of the bolts don't have easy access. You can get at them from
underneath. What works better is wait until you have the tranny xmember
off and lower the whole thing a couple inches so you can get in there
with the socket. Careful. The tranny plate has a rubber gasket under
it and it has 6 little spacers loosly mounted in the rubber. They will
happily fall off and into your tranny if you don't watch it. (guess
what I did)
>it also calls for another sst to change the push bearing, i
>remember the listings from some time ago people trying to remove
>the bearing.
Is this the throw-out bearing? This comes off easy. If you mean the
pilot bearing, Jack Alford has a trick involving grease a socket and a
hammer. (haynes manual has this technique too)
>since the transmission is off, i'll be replacing the rear engine
>seal, the transission seals, and new clutch. is there any secret
>i should know about r/r those seals?
Just don't score the seal surfaces. If you are going to use a flathead
to dig it out, wrap the end with tape (electrical) to be careful.
>any info is greatly appreciated, since i'm a 1/2 banana mechanic
>going after a big banana job.
Just keep one eye on the manual at all times, it'll go fine.
S.
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 19:32:02 -0700
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: Clutch/Tranny woes
Richard Aguinsky wrote:
>
> as i started removing stuff, i'm not sure how to hold the engine
> block, the manual states to put a piece of wood between the oil
> pan and a bracket behind the engine but there is no bracket on
> mine. how do you keep the engine from falling? i have the truck
> on stands on the front wheels.
The motor should stay put on it's own. It is very well balanced on the
motor mounts.
>
> also, it calls for a sst (special service tool) to remove the
> stick shift.... and i can't even get the knob off! how do you
> get the stick out?
It and the transfer case housing are simply bolted to the top of the
transmission.
>
> it also calls for another sst to change the push bearing, i
> remember the listings from some time ago people trying to remove
> the bearing.
Pack the cavity behind the pilot bearing with grease and swiftly drive
something through the input shaft hole, preferably something that is
slightly smaller than the I.D. of the pilot bearing inner race. This may
take some work but eventually will drive the bearing out of the
crankshaft.
>
> since the transmission is off, i'll be replacing the rear engine
> seal, the transission seals, and new clutch. is there any secret
> i should know about r/r those seals?
I like to remove the entire housings from the block (rear main seal). I
have heard of the actual housings (aluminum) cracking and allowing
leakage past the seal and I can get a good look at the housing this way.
This also prevents damage to the crank sealing surfaces as you won't be
using the crank to leverage the seal out.
Upon reinstallation of the seal, I like to use a thin coat of Permatex
2B non-hardening sealer on the outer surface of the seal to prevent
further leakage between the housing and the seal.
- --
Jim Brink Toyota/ASE Certified Technician toytech@off-road.com
Manhattan Beach, CA http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
**********************************************************************
1986 Toyota Standard Bed 4WD
22R - 32x11.50/15 BFG M/T - 4.88s- Downey LSD - EZ Locker
**********************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road - CA4WDC
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:01:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dan Merrick
Subject: Re: TRANNY REMOVAL
Rich:
Heres my two cents worth of advice for tranny removal.
If you can't find a good deal on buying a tranny jack, then definitely rent
one. It will be worth the $24! Even with the tranny jack, you will need at
least one, if not two people helping you. The tranny can be a bear to
separate from the engine, and re-installing is just as fun! You can use a
pry bar to divorce the tranny from the engine, but be careful! The thin
sheet of steel between the tranny and engine(called a stiffener plate or
something) can bend very easily. If your truck is a straight axle, you can
support the rear portion of the engine by sliding a 2X4 from the left spring
to the right spring, just in front of the shackles. Use other wood blocks on
top of the 2X4 to achieve the right height.
Don't forget to buy a cheapo pilot bearing alignment tool. This makes tranny
re-installing much easier. Your local auto parts store should have one for
about $5. Basically, it looks just like a pilot shaft and it allows you to
align the clutch and pilot bearing during installation.
To remove the two top bolts on the tranny bellhousing, I have used a very
long(24") extension, u-joint or swivel head socket, and an air impact gun.
Remove the cross-member, and lower the tranny. (Don't forget to disconnect
the cat/muffler!) This allows better access to the bolts. The u-joints and
long extension make it much easier to remove and install the bolts.
Also, you may want to spring the extra cash for a more reputable clutch,
unless you don't mind doing all of this again in two years! I use Toyota
clutchs, but maybe other listers have suggestions as well.
Good luck!
Dan
>The advice is well taken, the only transmission jack I could
>find is one for rent in A Tool Shed for $24 per day. For the
>money, I prefer to buy a good one and put the transmission
>accessories on it. I went to Sears, Kragen and Orchard today
>at noon an nobody has a transmission jack. Do you know where
>I can buy one? Not too expensive, I hope. Maybe with the
>transmission jack, I can do the whole thing by myself without
>the extra pair of helping hands.
>
>Also, is the 4-5 inches off center towards the front or rear
>of the transmission. Mine is a 4 wheel drive, so it has the
>transfer case in the rear.
>
>I am planning in getting the clutch from Kragen, the whole
>kit is $130 with a life time warranty, with in two years of
>off roading, I'll return the trashed one for a new one, at
>least that's what they told me.
>
>In the mean time, the truck is still on crutches, the next
>step is trying to get the top screws off.
>
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:20:52 -0700
From: Barney McNamara
Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
Richard,
My experience with somebody else's installation of a Kragen
clutch into my truck before I bought it was a joke. Your time
is worth a whole lot more than the money you save on cheap
parts. Buy a Downey SC, or at least :-) a Toyota OEM setup.
Non-essential, easily removed parts, like seats and stereos,
are a fine place to save money. Anything essential to moving
your truck, and as hard to change as a clutch, ought to be
replaced with the best parts you can find, to reduce the
chance it will let you down when you need it.
Don't forget the seals and throwout bearing while you are in
there.
>I am planning in getting the clutch from Kragen, the whole
>kit is $130 with a life time warranty, with in two years of
>off roading, I'll return the trashed one for a new one, at
>least that's what they told me.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 15:40:22 -0700
From: Barney McNamara
Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
At 02:34 PM 7/29/98 -0700, Richard Aguinsky wrote:
>barney, since you rented it, i was about to do the same thing,
>except, rent it for 1/2 day, take it down, do all the work
>and re-rent it for a second 1/2 day. why do you feel it was
>not necessary? at the stores they say the same thing, just
>remove it with a jack with a wide plate. the widest plate
>i could find was a sears, tip from the list.
That sounds like an excellent idea. I only thought it might be
unnecessary if you are a Burly Man, like some seem to be on the
list. I am a timid wimp, and felt like it with that bulky
trans jack under my truck. When I have to do it again, I will
try to split the rental into 2 days, but I would surely rent
the jack again. (My floor jack is very small, but it was free!)
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:34:28 -0700
From: "jskaggs"
Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
This is not true. I have the Centerforce dual friction clutch and the
initial pushdown specs are the same as stock. The Centerforce gets it's
extra holding power by the centrifigual weights that are on the pressure
plate. Also after installation the clutch felt a little lighter than stock.
>
>Just a word of caution with the Centreforce. I've seen more than one
>person around here speak of problems that have been the result of high
>performance clutches. The centreforce puts more strain on the actuator
>mechanisms.
My older slaves and master blew before I put in the Centerforce. I did
replace the fork and pivot ball when I replaced the clutch though, because I
didn't want to have to go back in there for these little parts.
>Having older master or slave cyl's blow up have popped up here, as well as
>the pivot ball for the fork snapping off. I can't remember anyone having a
>failure of the actual throwout fork. If you go for the centreforce, you may
>consider buying a new pivot and installing it when you are in there.
John Skaggs
TLCA# 5560
thunder90@msn.com
Visalia, CA
85 4Runner
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:29:23 -0700
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
Richard Aguinsky wrote:
>
> the seals: the rear engine one is easy, the transmission
> one i was told that i have to remove a plate to replace
> it. should i replace the transmission bearing as well?
You'll have to remove the input bearing retainer. Six bolts hold it to
the front of the transmission. It also has a gasket the goes between the
plate and trans. Don't replace the bearing unless you have to.
>
> do i have to resurface and balance the flywheel? or with
> coarse sanding is fine?
Machining the flywheel is a good idea. You can't account for hot spots
by simply sanding it. I like to finish flywheels (and brake rotors)
after machining with 3M "Roloc" sanding discs. They put a nice
counter-rotation swirl on the surface for the clutch disc (and brake
pads) to grab on.
- --
Jim Brink Toyota/ASE Certified Technician toytech@off-road.com
Manhattan Beach, CA http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
**********************************************************************
1986 Toyota Standard Bed 4WD
22R - 32x11.50/15 BFG M/T - 4.88s- Downey LSD - EZ Locker
**********************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road - CA4WDC
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:54:11 -0700
From: Nick Krest
Subject: Re: Tranny Removal
Barney McNamara wrote:
"...Your time is worth a whole lot more
than the money you save on cheap parts...
Non-essential, easily removed parts...are
a fine place to save money. Anything
essential to moving your truck, and as
hard to change as a clutch, ought to be
replaced with the best parts you can
find, to reduce the chance it will let
you down when you need it."
EVERYONE! LISTEN TO BARNEY! LISTEN TO BARNEY!
Man with entirely new old truck speaks truth. Not only nice guy, but smart
one, too.
Buying a cheap clutch reminds me of the old joke about the guy who kept
pushing his car that had run out of gas past a gas station, because he knew
the one a few miles down the road had lower prices.
There's a time to save money, and a time to buy the best quality you can
afford. IMHO, the reason Kragen/Grand Auto/Pep Boys parts come with a
lifetime warranty is because you're gonna need it. The price differential
isn't that great to warrant the PITA of r&r'ing it, especially if it
happens to leave you stranded in, say, Death Valley in 110 degree heat, and
having to hitch a ride to Vegas to find a replacement.
- Nick
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 05:09:37 -0700
From: "wg"
Subject: tranny removal
Scott wrote:
>Just a word of caution with the Centreforce. I've seen more than one
>person around here speak of problems that have been the result of high
>performance clutches. The centreforce puts more strain on the actuator
>mechanisms.
>Having older master or slave cyl's blow up have popped up here, as well as
>the pivot ball for the fork snapping off.
Yup this happened to me, but the clutch cylinder and slave
are cheap parts and very easy to replace.
>You can't really go wrong with the toyota oem clutch.
I have to disagree with you here. Even 33's which aren't
terribly big tires and tough 4x4ing will destroy a stock clutch.
The stock clutch doesn't have enough strength.
I blew 2 stock clutches in 6 months. The Centerforce dual friction
that I have in now has been in for close to 3yrs.
As usual YMMV.
Wil
http://www.off-road.com/~wilmonky
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:20:12 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Tranny bolts
The top two bolts on the 22RE/5spd trannies are a bear to get at.
I personally pull them by:
using a 1/2 drive extension bar - the *looong* one (20"?)
placing the bar/socket on the bolt from the bottom (on a creeper)
but turning the bolt from inside the truck (shifters are already out).
A helper makes this mucho easier.
EWong
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