Valve Adjustments
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 1997 18:21:46 -0800
From: James Brink
Subject: Valve tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> DRM033@aol.com wrote:
> > I am about to have to adjust the valves on my 22RE. I was wondering if
> any
> > of you have done this, and what is involved. Also, I had it done in '95.
> > How often will they need to be adjusted?
>
> I've had three vehicles with a 2xRx series engines. All you need to adjust
> the valves is some feeler gauges, wrenches, a screwdriver (I think) and
> whatever tools it takes to get the valve cover off. I've never had to
> adjust mine; I've pulled the covers off and they've always been right on
> spec. YMMV. I've heard that one should avoid the temptation to run the
> clearances tighter than spec to reduce noise, though I cannot remember why.
> :)
>
> --
> -- ej@blarg.net
Valve adjustments should be carried out every 30K miles with the motor
hot. Set the crankshaft so that the timing mark is at TDC and the rocker
arms on intake/exhaust cyl. #1 are loose. Adjust valves in the following
sequence: intake/exhaust #1, intake #2, exhaust #3. Rotate the engine
with a 19mm socket on the crankshaft pulley nut 360 degrees (make sure
the key is off!) until the timing mark is again at TDC and the rockers
for # 4 cyl are loose and adjust the following valves: cyl. #'s 3,4,
intake and 2,4 exhaust. Turn the screw-type adjusters until there is a
slight drag on the feeler gauge and tighnten the locknut (12mm) while
preventing the adjuster screw from turning. It may take a few tries to
get it right. DO NOT adjust an R series motor's valve for quiet
operation! These motors run best and last longer with a little extra
(note: little) extra clearance.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 22:23:13 -0500
From: Steven Benson
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Something John forgot to mention. When adjusting your valves it is best
to do so when the engine is hot. This will make things a bit crispy for
your hands but will save you the time of going back and re-adjusting
them tighter to get rid of the tappet noise.
Just some advice given to me by another that has worked well with the
infamous Toyota Tappet noise.
John Skaggs wrote:
I don't know what the dealer charges for this procedure but whatever it
is it's way to much. This is a 1 banana job at most and that's a high
estimate. All you need is a gasket kit $25.00 (valve cover gasket, rubber
half moons, rubber bolt grommets) all was included in the kit, 12mm
combination wrench, 14mm socket or wrench, 19mm socket, carb or brake
cleaner, rags, feeler gauges, flat blade screwdriver and that's it.
Oh yeah and the procedure. The only aftermarket book I found that has \
the specs AND procedures was the John Muir Idiot book for Toyota's.
If you can visualize this, you can follow Jim Brink's directions.
I just did this, last weekend and it is very EASY. If I remember correctly
the valve clearance specs were .008" intake, .012" exhaust. Also an
extra hand is helpful to hold the wires out of the way when reinstalling the
cover but it is not absolutely critical. Go No Go feeler gauges are nice to
have also.
______________________________________________
Steven Benson
'85 Toy X-Cab | MNTOYX4 | MN4WDA | TLCA #4835
http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
mailto:toyx4@winternet.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 21:24:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 10 Apr 1997, Steven Benson wrote:
> Something John forgot to mention. When adjusting your valves it is best
> to do so when the engine is hot. This will make things a bit crispy for
> your hands but will save you the time of going back and re-adjusting
> them tighter to get rid of the tappet noise.
How do you keep the engine hot? Do you just start it up again once you
have it all apart, maybe with the valve cover just laying on top of the
head (not bolted down)?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 00:48:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
OK. I had a guy do the valve adjusting for me. He set it to specs and I
still have the noise. I know, it will always have some noise, but this is
bad. I will try to give a good description so someone in the know can help
me!
The valve noise is not constant. sometimes it is there, sometimes it is not.
When I went to get it fron the shop and started it up, it did not make it.
it started to only after sustained throttle preasure (sorry, no tach) then
release. then it began to build gradually, getting worse each time this is
repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release
the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while
traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs
great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.
Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.
Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 23:37:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release
> the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while
> traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs
> great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.
> Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.
>
> Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.
This is a long shot. Someone on the Offroad Mailing list had a similar
problem with his Nissan, and get this, the problem was his fan belts. I
didn't really believe it at first, but then a second Nissan owner said he
had the same thing, and they both swore that it sounded exactly like
vavles out of adjustment.
anyway, hope this helps,
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 1997 01:23:18 +0000
From: Brendan
Subject: Valve Tapping
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>
> OK. I had a guy do the valve adjusting for me. He set it to specs and I
> still have the noise. I know, it will always have some noise, but this is
> bad. I will try to give a good description so someone in the know can help
> me!
>
> The valve noise is not constant. sometimes it is there, sometimes it is not.
> When I went to get it fron the shop and started it up, it did not make it.
> it started to only after sustained throttle preasure (sorry, no tach) then
> release. then it began to build gradually, getting worse each time this is
> repeated. Also, it is quited under mild load, like when you first release
> the clutch to take off. It will rattle loudly if you punch it while
> traveling down the road. The guy says they are at spec. The truck runs
> great otherwise. it does not smoke, except a puff at innitial start-up.
> Again, sometimes at sops it will rattle, sometimes it will get quiet.
>
> Can somebody help me? I really would like to get this taken care of.
>
> David
> DRM033@aol.com
>
I know what you're experiencing. The previous owner of my truck never
had the valves adjusted. So at 87,000 miles, I adjusted them. The
valves were too tight. I couldn't get the appropriate feeler gauge in
the gap. Before, the valves didn't make any noise that I could
remember. But I sure noticed the noise after the adjustment. It really
annoyed me, I thought I did something wrong. I checked those things
five times after that. Sometimes the tappet noise is loud, and then
sometimes it is not so loud. It's really bugging me as well. There's
no consistency. I did everything exactly by the Toyota book. The weird
thing is that I have two friends that have 22RE engines, and theirs'
don't make any noise. So you're not alone. I would appreciate some
input as well (I've meaning to ask you guys about this).
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:56:44 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #127
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:30 AM 4/12/97, you wrote:
>Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature on the
>gauge--with the valve cover on! If you take it loose first, you will
>have an oily mess. The motor will stay hot enough to adjust all of the
>valves. Be careful of hot exhaust components.
>- --
FYI to all:
You can set the valve clearances to .007 and .011 cold, instead of heating
the car up and setting to .008 and .012. I have done this, and then warmed
the car to operating temp and re-checked. The clearances are the same. I
learned this trick from a 20+ year Toyota service tech.
Ed F.
- ------------------------------------------------------
Edward C. Fisher E-Mail: edwd@ti.com
Process Engineering Team Phone: (214) 995-6305
DMD Components Group Pager: (214) 410-4669
Texas Instruments, Inc. MSGID: EDWD
- ------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 00:20:24 -0700
From: Leroy Andersen
Subject: 3 questions:
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 02:10 AM 6/27/97 -0400, Msrwerks@aol.com wrote:
>question number one: this may be the wrong time to be asking this question,
>needing to be adjusted hot.) the question is this: what is the sequence for
>adjusting the valves? i rolled the truck in 4th gear untill an intake valve
>thanks in advance for the help!
>
Straight out of the Shop Manual:
1. Warm up engine.
2. Stop engine and remove valve cover.
3. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC/compression.
-Turn crankshaft with wrench to align timing marks at TDC. Set the
groove on the pulley to the O position.
- Check that the rocker arms on No. 1 cylinder are loose and rockers
on No. 4 are tight.
If not, turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and align marks as above.
4. Adjust clearance of half of the valves.
-adjust only these valves:
| |
V V
X X X X Intake
Front
X X X X Exhaust
^ ^
| |
-using thickness gauge, measure between valve stem and rocker arm.
loosen lock nut, turn screw to proper clearance. While holding screw
in position, tighten nut. Recheck clearance. Thickness gauge should
move with a very slight drag.
5. Turn crankshaft complete revolution (360 deg.) and align timing marks.
then adjust these valves:
| |
V V
X X X X Intake
Front
X X X X Exhaust
^ ^
| |
Then, slap 'er back together!
Hope this helps.
Leroy
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:30:17 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: tranny fluid change (long)
I also posted that valves can be set at .007 and .011 cold. Again, this is
what is being done by at least one superior Toyota expert at at least one
finely run shop. I have set mine cold, brought the vehicle up to operating
temp, and rechecked the clearance with a good go-no-go guage, and the
clearances were correct. I will never burn my hands again.
The bottom line is, to each his own. I didn't get really detailed in my
first explanation and that is my fault. You folks don't know me all that
well, and I only post when I have something to say that may be of help or
relevance.
Ed Fisher
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