SR5 Gauge Swap (Tachometer Install)



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Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 10:11:40 MST
From: chott@aicd.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
Subject: SR5 Gage Pack Conversion
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

>A friend and I were talking (Jay K) about the potentials of converting a
>non-SR5 gage cluster to a SR5 gage cluster without having to use the SR5
>wiring harness.
>
>Has anyone on the list done this swap and what would it take to do it.
>
>I'm assuming a few added wires, a sender or two, maybe a few required
>harness plugs and a brain.

Do you mean switching the entire gage cluster out?  I bought a non-SR5
4Runner last summer and traded the whole gage cluster from my SR5 truck,
(both are 85's) with no wiring change.  The only change I made was to swap
the oil pressure sensor from an idiot light sensor to a gage sensor.

The truck dash even had the right lights for the back door of the 4Runner.

Jim Chott
rzaa80@email.mot.com
1985 4Runner
Motorola Dust Devils 4wd club

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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 1997 06:24:35 -0800
From: "John J. Mackiewicz" 
Subject: Gauge Switching
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

I performed this swap (instrument cluster) on my '83 and I had to
"re-pin" the connectors so everything hooked-up correctly (the new
cluster was out of a '83 SR5).  If you have a copy of the schematic it
is not too tough, all the wire colors are the same.  My instrument
cluster still had the original plugs with wire ends in them, making it
even easier.  To connect the tach I ran a wire through the firewall into
the plug near the coil.  Everything works great!  Only thing I have left
to do is set-up the oil pressure/volt gauges I also picked-up.  Anyone
know the average price of a 22R oil pressure sending unit?

John Mackiewicz
john.j.mackiewicz@boeing.com

>>       I have an '84 non-SR5 and I took out that bonehed idiot-light
>> infested console and put in one from an '86 (Turbo even ;)  All you 
>> have to do is go to a boneyard and find an SR5 unit (relatively 

>    I was talking to the owner of Downey Off-Road (Sickles) a couple 
>of years ago and he told me that if you have a standard (non tach
>& gauges) dash and you want the SR-5 dash (all the goodies) that
>you simply pull out the old and put in the SR-5, that all the 
>connections are the same and all of the sending units are already 
>there.  Of course you have to match the "generation" ('79-'83, 
>'84-'88/'89, '89/90to present) and be sure that you match engines from 
>the "donor" to your truck (only use 4 cyl gauges for your 4 cyl truck, 
>etc.), or your tach will be off.

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John J. Mackiewicz wrote:

Subject: Gauge Switching
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>I performed this swap (instrument cluster) on my '83 and I had to
>"re-pin" the connectors so everything hooked-up correctly (the new
>cluster was out of a '83 SR5).  If you have a copy of the schematic it
>is not too tough, all the wire colors are the same.  My instrument
>cluster still had the original plugs with wire ends in them, making it
>even easier.  To connect the tach I ran a wire through the firewall into
>the plug near the coil.  Everything works great!  Only thing I have left
>to do is set-up the oil pressure/volt gauges I also picked-up.  Anyone
>know the average price of a 22R oil pressure sending unit?

He is right, the 83 SR5 gauges use the same connectors, but the pinouts are
quite different. After I finally bought a set yesterday, I decided I needed
to hook them up immediately. I was up late, but they work and look great
today. I also swapped the light bulbs from my old idiot lights (still in
good shape) into the panel illumination sockets on the new panel, and it
looks nice and bright. The two differenes between non-SR5 and SR5 basic
panel is the addition of a tach, and a resettable trip odometer. The layout
is nicer, and after cleaning the inside of the plastic cover and replacing
the bilbs, it looks like a new truck.

After figuring out the pinout mods, it took a while to figure out how to
pull the pins out of the connectors. The secret is to jamb a small 
screwdriver between the back of the pin and the plastic connector shell. 
There is a little one-way hook in there that keeps the pin in the shell. 
Push down the hook, and the pin can be pulled out with the wire and be 
reinserted into the new location.

There are three connectors which are keyed and cannot be swapped around. 
The circuit connections are numbered on the flex circuit on the back of 
the gauge panel. Each connector has 8 pins. Blue connector is pins 1-8, 
gray is 9-16, and the white is 17-24.

The tach input wire is not available in the harness. I didn't have any 
spare pins, so I ran a wire from a ring lug fastened to the screw on the 
tach input connection to the yellow wire from the igniter in the engine 
compartment. There is a wire connected to that point on the igniter 
running to the CA smog computer, so I spliced another wire for the 
tach into the truck side of the harness. (So I can easily swap my friend 
the igniter if required.)

For the record, here are the pinout of SR5 vs non-SR5 gauge for 83:

SR5     non-SR5     wire color       function
 1        1            GY           Right turn signal indicator
 2        
 3        3            BR (B BR)    Speed sensor (-) ground
 4        6            GL           Speed sensor (+)
 5
 6
 7        23           YG           Water temp gauge
 8        9            RW           Panel lights (+)

 9        15           YR           Fuel Gauge
10        12           Y            Ignition switched power
11        21           YB           Oil Pressure switch (idiot light)
12        22           YW           Charge (idiot light)
13        14           WB           Ground
14                                  Tach input - must be wired to igniter 
                                                 yellow
15        17           GB           Left turn signal indicator
16        16           RB           Panel lights (-)

17
18
19        11           G            4WD
20
21        19           BY           Seat belt 
22
23        13           RG           High Beam
24        20           GW           Brake

_________________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara              83 Toyota Short Bed  
( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
                             Newly added SR5 Gauge Set :-)
____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 25 Feb 98 12:14:06 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: 4Runner instrument swap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>I just purchased an '89 Runner Dlx. (5 spd, 22RE). I'm able to pick up an
>SR5 instrument cluster for about Cdn$150 but not sure how easy it is to do
>the swap. The supplier says my Runner should have all the sensors and
>sending units with the possible exception for oil pressure, which he'll give
>me with the cluster pkg.

that's what I found out... I paid $45 (US) for mine, plus $21 for a new oil 
pressure sender.  It's a 10 minute deal... un-screw the 5 screws holding the 
dash, un-do the 4 that hold the cluster, un-hook cable/wires, and put back in 
in reverse order.  Go underhood and swap the oil pressure sender, and you're 
done.... It took me 20 minutes, because I cleaned everything real good before 
I re-assembled it.

- - brian

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Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:00:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: SR5 Gauges
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

> >I'm curious if I can pull the full gauge cluster from an SR5 and
> > drop it in my plane-jane 86 Hilux? Is all the wiring in place,
> >a bolt in job?
> All the wiring is in place to do the job. However some of the sensors
> are not installed. You will need to put the Oil Pressure sender on the
> engine and replace the fuel tank sender with he SR5 unit. The SR5 fuel

You may not need to do this.  On my '87 deluxe 4runner, the low fuel
light still works, even with the new SR5 gauges (I believe mine came out
of an '85 4runner, but any model, probably even a 2wd p/u will work. 
The only real differences I've seen, is that some don't have the blank
for the low fuel light or little things like that.  The older ones also
only have a 85 mph speedo that looks a little dated IMHO)

The other thing you *may* need to do is add a wire for the tachometer. 
I believe all EFI trucks have this, and I bet probably all the older
pre-efi engines ('84 and older I guess) probably have this wire.. but my
friend's '86 deluxe (4wd carbed, wing windows, PS and that's it) didn't. 
What you need to do (and this is real easy) is to run a wire from the
tachometer 'check' deal that runs off the coil to the #6 spot on
terminal A.  For clarification, the carbed coils (that I know of) don't
have a 'negative' spot on them, like most other coils, so it's easiest
just to splice into the tachometer tester plug in (it's just a one wire,
capped green or yellow plug hanging off the coil). 

If you're wondering where the 'A6' spot is on the back of the guages.. 
here's what I mean.  Turn the gauges upside down, and look at the back,
and you'll see three plug ins (I'm looking at mine as I write this)\. On
the right of the left most one, you'll see a 'circle A' and two numbers,
a 1 at the left to a 12 on the right.  You want number 6. 

There may be an easier way to splice the tach wire in, but here's what
we did.  We used about 16-18 gauge wire, pushed it through the wiring
'plug-in' and then stripped off the last 2" of wire.  Next we folded it
back on itself 3 or 4 times until you're left with a 1/3" long clump of
wire.  We twisted this over a few times then wedged it back in the
plug-in.  Then we just plugged it in and it works.  The first time we
only folded it back on itself once.  It worked, so we put the whole dash
back together.  Then it stopped working.  PITA.. 

Oh yeah, and thanks for the advice on getting the speedo recalibrated. 
I may have ruined the speedo in the process (I gotta wonder just how
sensitive that little coiled spring is.. hopefully it's pretty tough ;) 
but I managed to pry back one of the clips using a few screwdrivers and
pliers.  Then I pulled the wheel/number cluster halfway out, and just
spun it (working form the left to right) until I had the right mileage. 
I'm still hoping I didn't screw up my speedo in the proccess though... 
oh well, I've still got the original.
- --
                                                      _______
Jonathan Albrecht                      __.           /_/__|__\__
albr9619@uidaho.edu                 __/__|\___       |_.--.__,--;
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619    :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
                                 `'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`

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Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:52:43 -0800
From: kkuo@wimsey.com (Kenneth Kuo)
Subject: SR5 Gauges/Odometer Adjustment
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

I'll try to answer both Dan & Jonathan's questions at same time since I just
happened to do the SR5 to non-SR5 cluster swap this past weekend. Here goes :

1) SR5 Gauges :

The SR5 cluster should theoretically go right into a non-SR5 HiLux/4Runner
with little if any add-ons but that really depends on your truck and
configuration. I just swapped a 4Runner SR5 cluster into my non-SR5 4Runner
('89/22RE/5spd) and it took about 1 hour (had trouble disassembling odometer
to adjust mileage). There are 5 screws to undo the dash cover then unplug
the "clutch cancel" wire, 4 screws for the cluster itself. Unclip the 3
electrical plugs, then the speedo cable. Remember to undo the speedo cable
clip behind firewall in engine compartment to give it more slack otherwise
it can be tricky to reconnect. When installing SR5 cluster, reinsert all 3
electrical plugs and turn on your dash light to make sure all the instrument
bulbs are working, if not just swap from your old cluster (I found this out
after finishing the whole thing and had to repeat the process again). I
actually replaced the 3 main green bulbs in the SR5 cluster with untinted
bulbs from my old cluster .... now I have a brighter instrument panel
without that weak green hue.

As for the sensor units, my Runner seemed to already have "voltmeter" & "oil
pressure" but I don't seem to have "tailgate" and "seatbelt" sensors.

2) Odometer Adjustment

On the spindle that forms the axis of the odometer gearwheels, there's a
small black "C" clip beside the leftmost mileage digit wheel (100,000's).
Pull this clip out carefully. Now you can 'unstack' each and every digit
wheel and uncoupling them with the in-between spacer disks by shifting them
to left along the spindle. Turn each digit wheel independently to your
current mileage (some evil thoughts may pop up at this time .... resist the
temptation!) Re-insert the "C" clip on the odometer spindle and reassemble
everything in reverse order.


Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Kenneth Kuo 
Vancouver, British Columbia
'89 4Runner/22RE/5spd

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Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 13:49:30 PST
From: "C.G. Smith" 
Subject: SR5 gauge swap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

The drill route works Im sure, but with a little patience and a pair of 
needle nose pliers you can set the desired mileage in a couple of 
minutes. Just pull out the metal rod that slides thru the brackets on 
each number roll...its a press fit...be careful not to bend it too bad. 
Then set the desired mileage...if you push the number towards the front 
of the cluster..the bracket will hit....just keep easing on the number 
and it will slide thru the bracket....Get the right mileage...line up 
all the small black brackets and then slide the pin back in.....Only 
took me about ten minutes.

Oh by the way....you don't have to change the fuel gauge sender unless 
you want the low fuel light..that is the only difference.....


'89 4 Runner....only 95k..not broken in yet. First 4 Runner, but my 8th 
TOY 4x4..31's..K&N.Centerforce.....Buildup to come.....

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