Clutch Flex Hose

Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 09:12:43 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Leaky Clutch Flex Hose
To: "        -         (052)donald.tong (a) mv.unisys.com"


TLC, Don:

I recall paying a bit more than the $30 that you claim that a local hose
manuf would charge. However, I went straight to Earls at the Indy 500
garage. Their hose is teflon lined and burst tested to some ridiculous
pressure. If it works on Indy cars [but not apprently on Stewert's
car at the IRL Micky 200 :) ] then it should work on my Yota.
I recall $40 for the ss/teflon hose with the "proper" metric fittings.

Its really easy to put in - esp since your 4runnner is probably not as
"salt belt modified" as mine is. I estimate - 10 min or less if you know
what you are doing, or 1 hour with a beer break in the middle.

FYI - pressure ranges are up there - similar to brake hoses. While
the pressure plates are in the 2500 range (?), I guess its actually
higher at the slave cylinder.

There's a bit more room on the 22RE engines, but the V6 should'nt be
too bad - you'll need a flare wrench and some plier/screwdrivers
to get off the "clips" that hold the hoses to the brackets.
Actually, the clips are probably the hardest part (when rusted).
Also - a metal nibber is handly as the new fittings "groove" for the clip
was wider than the stock piece - so the clip had to be modified.

I actually went whole hog and replace the hard line - it was actually
easier to yank the hard line w/ the rubber hose still attached than it
was to take out the rubber hose from under the truck. I think the
hard line was $10-$20. It was also rusted and it gave me a chance
to paint it a cool colour...

EWong

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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 97 12:27:00 CST
From: Rogers_Jared 
Subject: Leaky Clutch Flex Hose
To: Toyota4x4 

>I've got 70K+ miles on my '91 4-Runner.  When I took it in last October   
>for the V6 head gasket replacement, the Toyota service manager also   
>pointed out the clutch flex hose as something that would be needed   
>replacement sooner or later.

I had this problem on my 1991 4runner, also. It was causing my clutch to 
feel funny and was releasing really close to the floor because of a slight 
loss in pressure. The service manager told me that it was fairly common. If 
your dealer only wants $80 to fix it, I'd go for it! My dealer charged me 
$126!!!! OUCH!

Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6

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Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 08:07:13 -0900
From: " CONRAD" 
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #75
To: 

> Date: Mon, 17 Feb 97 11:49:00 PST
> From: "Tong, Don                   MV" 
> Subject: Leaky Clutch Flex Hose (was part of Common Problems)
> Any comments about the amount of pressure, difficulty or hints in doing  

> the replacement, and comments in general about using a stainless steel   
> line are most welcome.
> Don Tong
Stainless will be nice, BUT...it has to have some coils in it so it can
flex.  Without a few turns that can absorb the engine/tranny movement you
will break the line.  Replacement is fairly simple, just make sure you
thoroughly bleed the system.
jc

Jack Conrad,  BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
84 FJ-60, coils over  leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s

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Date: Wed, 19 Feb 97 15:05:00 PST
From: "Tong, Don                   MV" 
Subject: Leaky Clutch Flex Hose
To: "'Toyota 4WD Digest'" 

In response to my request for general comments on using stainless steel   
hose, Jack Conrad responded:

>Stainless will be nice, BUT...it has to have some coils in it so it can   
flex.  Without a few turns that can absorb the engine/tranny movement you   
will break the line.

Thanks for the advice.  Coincidentally, the recommendation from the   
service technicians was that I have the new hose made a couple inches   
longer than the stock hose.  They indicated that the length of the stock   
hose is short enough that a lot of engine movement does contribute to the   
wear on the hose.

After speaking with the guy at the hose shop, he said coils would only be   
needed for a hard stainless steel line, but not for the teflon and   
stainless flex hose.  So, I went with the flex hose; two inches longer   
than the factory hose, complete with fittings, ran just over $30.  For   
some perverse reason, I'm looking forward to putting this in.

Don Tong
donald.tong@mv.unisys.com  

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Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 23:01:40 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: Clutch pedal pressure.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Wilkin Girindra wrote:
> 
> I have the following problem and was wondering if anyone had any
> ideas. I have 1981 toy with 20r and 4 speed.
> Recently I have been losing clutch pedal pressure. This problem has
> been coming and going. Symptom, clutch pedal loses pressure at top
> of pedal. Clutch engages on very bottom of pedal. First half of pedal
> engagement is dead.  I replaced the clutch (with Centerforce dual friction)
> and also replaced master and slave in the last 6 months.
> I have bled the system once and two days ago completely replaced the
> fluid. When I last bled the system the fluid coming out was black
> and actually had chunks in it. After this the system seemed to work
> fine until tonite when I lost pedal pressure again!
> The system is not leaking at all so does anyone have any ideas?
> 
> 

Check/replace the flexible (rubber) brake hose on the right side of the
transmission, above the area of the slave. Follow the steel line from
the slave up until you see the rubber hose. It looks similar to a
flexible brake hose. I'll bet that upon inspection the hose is soft and
spongy and may even be swollen. It is probalby deteriorated on the
inside surface from old, moisture-contaminated brake fluid. Flush and
bleed the system once more and pedal pressure/clutching action should
return to normal.
- -- 
Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
					Stock 4.10 gears
					Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

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Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: BCSTOY@aol.com
Subject: Clutch pedal pressure.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

In a message dated 97-04-27 01:22:37 EDT, you write:

<< When I last bled the system the fluid coming out was black
 and actually had chunks in it.  >>

I suspect that those chunks are probably traces of ruber seals coming out of 
the slave cylinder or the clutch master cyl. They could be traces of rust
too.

Remember just for safety you must replace both the master cyl and the slave
and the master cyl must be bled after installation to get the air out.

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Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 16:20:20 -0500
From: Robert Stein 
Subject: Re: 2" body-lift on '91 4Rnr

Don't know if your's is a standard shift, but watch that clutch slave
hose  Whoever did my lift DIDN'T, but I got lucky, it finially
broke as I was backing out of the drive-way. IF you need to lengthen
your's, a GREAT and CHEAP solution, atleast for my `85, was a front
brake line. Fit with no problems at all and is approx 3 1/3" longer than
the stock slave hose...

Robert 

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