Differentials - ARB
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:57:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-30 14:46:21 EDT, you write:
>
> I am in the market for a locker for my 89 pickup. I am a college student
> so I still do quite a bit of highway driving and also money is a major
> concern. The lock-right seems like a good choice for me, mostly because
> it is cheaper. But I am worried about getting it because overall, most
> people on this list seem to bad-mouth lock-right and praise detroit.
> What's the deal? Is lock-right complete junk and not even worth spending
> my money on? I understand that detroit can be better but if lock-right
> is strong enough for my application then I'll probably get it. I usually
> wheel 2 times a month in the Appalachian mountains, so it definitely
> will not see Rubicon abuse. Let me know what you think and for those of
> you out there with a lock-right how do you like it?
>
Man, save your money and go ARB! I know it seems more expensive, but the
advantages are far too good.
1. No on road problems associated with lockers
2. Always locked when you need it
3. I have heard of people breaking other lockers, but I haven't heard of a
broken ARB(yet)
4. That cool sound when the compressior kicks on, and other people wish they
had one.
down sides:
1. cost
2. possible line/compressor/O-ring failure (slight)
that is it. I am a college student also, so the cost was a problem at first.
Then I took into account the amount of time I spend on the pavement, and
that fact that I drive real fast everywhere, and I decided on the ARB. I
have only had one problem with mine, and that was due to the installer
getting a piece of metal in the O-ring. No other problems since in 2 years.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 16:26:05 -0700
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
DRM033@aol.com wrote:
> Man, save your money and go ARB! I know it seems more expensive, but the
> advantages are far too good.
> 1. No on road problems associated with lockers
> 2. Always locked when you need it
> 3. I have heard of people breaking other lockers, but I haven't heard of a
> broken ARB(yet)
One really interesting account of a broken ARB is at
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/gschaffter/arbcrash.htm
where his ARB broke down in Tunisia... They use more bolts now, so its
unlikely to happen again...
I've heard numerous stories of leaky air lines, etc too... even so, I still
long for an ARB myself...
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 00:10:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Strange you mention that, cause I just finished lookin' at that site. Other
than that, I still have no reports of manufacturer neglegent/structural
failure.
As for you getting the ARB, I have an idea for that. Buy the compressor
first, and set up onboard air( I heard they inproved the output). Later, get
the locker. No cheaper, but it is a way to rationalize the cost.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 11:24:25 -7 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> From: Eric Johnson
>
> One really interesting account of a broken ARB is at
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/gschaffter/arbcrash.htm
> where his ARB broke down in Tunisia... They use more bolts now, so its
> unlikely to happen again...
exactly. they used to use 4 bolts and now they use 8, if i remember
correctly. plus, they use a locking tabs so they can't come loose, like
what happened to that 4runner. i think 3 of the 4 bolts that held that
guy's (gustav, i think that's his name) ARB came loose.
>
> I've heard numerous stories of leaky air lines, etc too... even so, I still
> long for an ARB myself...
>
me too. i'm ready to plunk down $1500 for one, but i keep thinking about
that command locker from powertrax, if and when they ever decide to
release this thing. much simpler and all it takes is a 12v source to
activate the locker...
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 17:20:39 -0500
From: Steve Capuano
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>As for you getting the ARB, I have an idea for that. Buy the compressor
>first, and set up onboard air( I heard they inproved the output). Later, get
>the locker. No cheaper, but it is a way to rationalize the cost.
>
>David
>DRM033@aol.com
>
I thought I read somewhere the ARB air compressor could not handle the task
of continuous duty.
Lemme check my mag. pile for the article.
Steve Capuano
capuano@hypercon.com
NRA lifetime member
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 May 1997 18:56:48 -0700
From: wgirindra@bbs.fronet.com (Wilkin Girindra)
Subject: ARB air lockers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Hello everyone I thought I would just add my .02 to the whole
Air Locker thread. I have had the ARB's in my truck front and back
now for about 1 year. Prior to buying them I heard all of the "horror"
stories surrounding them. ie: lines will freeze in winter, they are
unreliable etc, etc. Well in the year that I've used them in the tough
extreme conditions up here in British Columbia they have been perfect.
To put it mildly I'm extremely, extremely happy with them. I consider
the ARB's to be the best money I have ever spent on a truck. The only
problem is that they are very expensive there is no doubt about that.
I have friends who have Lockrights, and Detroit Lockers and these are
excellent systems without doubt, but IMHO if you can spare the cash go
for the ARB's. I have a friend who works at a 4x4 shop that sells all
brands of lockers and he has informed me that the ARB warranty is
unbelievable (the only ARB with probs still is the one for the Dana 35c
I understand). The bottom line is get lockers front and rear if you can,
you won't believe how much less you will abuse your truck in tough
situations.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:54:50 -0700
From: Randy Ring
Subject: CB
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
Change of subject, and I hope this isn't to late to add:
Responding the comments about the difference between the Detroit Locker,
Lockright, Detroit EZ Locker and ARBs.
I know at least a dozen serious wheelers that are running ARBs. The
problem is reliability. They just don't seem to work all the time.
Even with the latest upgrades, I've seen them fail to engage. This is
primarily a "air pressure" problem. The benefit to "switching" them off
and on is really in the rear diff for street use. In most serious 4
wheeling situations, you want it locked up and I can't see where there
is ever a great need to "switch off" a locker.
I ran a Detroit Locker in the rear diff of my '86 Long bed, automatic
for 7 years. I did lots of serious wheeling and it worked great. I had
no problems driving on the street. On wet roads, if you tried hard, you
could get the back end to break loose. I ran a TRD (posi-trac) in the
front. It produced 40% lock up, according to TRD. It worked great, and
didn't have the heavy "power steer" that a locker in the front exhibits
when 4 wheeling.
I now own a 1985, 5 speed, short bed, 22R, Custom springs, 4" lift with
a Lockright rear, Detroit EZ locker in front. I do mostly rock crawling
in AZ. On the street the Lockright does act up. Pulling into a parking
stall, it often "bucks" as though it's locking and unlocking quickly. It
sounds like the whole rear end is about to come apart. The Lockright
also ratchets very loudly compared to the Detroit Locker. When braking
hard, the Lockright will sometimes chatter, making that bucking sound.
The Detroit Locker in my 1986 never did that. The Lockright does appear
to have slightly less drive line "slack".
The cost difference (cheapest price I found is 4 Wheel Parts Wholesale
in CA) is significant between DL and LR/EZL, considering anyone with
average mechanical skills and follows directions can install a
Lockright. Reliability wise, the Lockright just isn't as strong and
I've seen mixed reviews reliability. Detroit Lockers are practically
bullet proof, and I've known them to be installed in several vehicles
over a 15 year period and still perform like they were new. In my
experience for 4 Runners and P/Us and serious 4 wheeling, a Detroit
Locker is the best choice. The Lockright/EZ Locker is a less expensive
alternative with possibly less longevity/reliability. For serious 4
wheeling, there is nothing like being locked up at both ends.
Everything's a trade off.
This is my experience, hope it helps.
Randy_Ring@environ.com
1985 Toy P/U STB
-----------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:33:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-01 17:45:24 EDT, you write:
> >
> > I've heard numerous stories of leaky air lines, etc too... even so, I
> still
> > long for an ARB myself...
> >
>
This is not towards anyone in particular, but I swear some of this crap
about air lockers comes from old timers who think: Along comes a
"newfangled contraption" called an air locker, and it takes an air compressor
and air lines to make it work, so they say it must not be as good as the old
tried and true lockers. Give me a break! Plenty of people have them and
have had no problems. We hear of one person who had some bolts come loose,
and we start to think all of them will. A locker is a locker. If it locks
when it is suposed to, it works. If it is unlocked when it is supposed to,
it works. As to the air lines, I would probably say that if there is a leak,
they were not done right in the first place.
I personally think all lockers have their place. I chose the ARB
because of the ammount of street driving I do, not to mention how I drive. I
know those of you with other lockers say they "just take some getting used
to" on the street. I did not want to get used to anything, and would like
for anyone to be able to get right in my truck and drive it like they would
anything else, without requiring lessons. I have a Jeep also, and plan to
put a Detroit in it, 'cause it is mainly a trail rig. Like I said everything
has it's place. I get sick of people who have never had an ARB tell me that
a friend of a friend knows this guy who says this is what they think its
problems are.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 08:16:10 -0800
From: "CONRAD"
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To:
I have to agree with you David. I have a ARB in both of my trucks, and
have NEVER had a problem. However, if the ARB is being used in loose,
rocky terrain, the cheap plastic air lines could be a source of grief. A
simple precaution is to replace them with a good braided rubber line or put
a good rubber sheath around them. Low cost preventative measure, and
you'll never have to worry about the dreaded "ARB air leak"!!
jc
Jack Conrad, BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
84 FJ-60, coils over leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 20:03:28 -0700
From: "Todd and Terry"
Subject: ARB problems Was Lockright vs Detroit
To:
(snip)
I get sick of people who have never had an ARB tell me that
> a friend of a friend knows this guy who says this is what they think its
> problems are.
I have a co-worker that has an ARB in the rear of his Wrangler that he is
having a problem with. Jiffy Lube overfilled his dif and somehow oil got
into the air line. It will not let the ARB disengage without bleeding it
at the pumpkin bulkhead fitting. He thinks he's got oil in the lines or
solenoid. This is the only problem I've known of.
Todd87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR
26's,
RS 5000's, Ramsey front bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper,
Custom body by Sierra Nevada.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 23:48:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: ARB problems Was Lockright vs Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Sounds like an axle breather problem. The breather is necessary to vent the
air whane the ARB is disengaged. If the vent is clogged, the overfilled diff
will be preasurized. The air line is tho only place it can go.
I will say that I have found oil in my air line. I like to remove the line
at the diff, and blow the line clear.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: 2 May 1997 16:42:15 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 4:08 PM
OFFICE MEMO Lock-Right vs. Detroit Date: 5/2/97
I have to agree too and make a few more comments. I think Arizona would
qualify as a place that is loose and rocky. I've run my front ARB for six
years now and have had no problems with it. I carry spare hose. If it
fails, I should be able to fix it in about ten minutes.
_______________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
_______________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 23:52:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
More on this: Like Jay says, if an ARB fails, it should return to "open"
position. Even if it cannot be fixed on site, you can still drive, thouhg
w/o a locker. What happens when a detroit breaks? Every one I have heard
rendered the trucks undrivable.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 16:46:15 -0700
From: Randy Ring
Subject: ARB Lockers
To: "'Toy4x4 @tlca.org'"
Date: Fri, 2 May 1997 11:33:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Lock-Right vs. Detroit
He writes... all snipped
****************
A Locker is NOT a Locker....
All "crap" and "old timers" aside, here are the facts and 10 reasons why
NOT to buy an ARB.
1) ARBs have an incontrovertible history of design flaws and failure.
2) Since their introduction into the US in 1988, ARB has continuously
made engineering changes to "fix" the reliability issue that has plagued
them.
3) Today, they still have a 5-10% failure rate! One in every 20
installed has a problem.
4) The quality of some components has been poor.
5) Too many components in the system with a significant probability of
failure.
6) Unlike the Detroit Locker, ARBs use spider gears and although they
are much stronger than stock spider gears, ARB's design continues to
plague them. They have recently re-designed the Dana 35 C-clip model
because the spider gears were breaking.
7) There is currently a re-occurring problem with gear oil getting into
the solenoid causing latent engagement.
8) To engage the locker requires 90 to 115 PSI pressure. Any closed air
pressure system is inherently prone to leaks, in this case, usually
failure to engage.
9) The ARB also has a disengage problem. It has metal springs (80 lbs
of pressure) that are designed to disengage the locker. ARBs in front
diffs of a vehicle that is in a typical "crossed-up" situation sometimes
won't release without relieving the "torque" from the front end. This
somewhat defeats the benefit of "switching off" your locker for better
steering advantages.
10) The average initial cost of the ARBs, with installation, is usually
higher than other options. If you look at your additional cost of loss
like: telephone calls to your ARB distributor/installer, down-time,
taking the vehicle in for re-work, inconvenience, frustration, other
non-tangible discomforts, you have a hefty investment without the
expected return.
To ARBs credit, they have been "good" about warranty issues and have
taken measures to try to satisfy the end-users and their distributors.
FACT: The Detroit Locker has been around since the 1930s, essentially in
its current design, and works all the time.
Personally, I would love to have ARBs front and rear. And, if and when
they become "reliable", I'll buy a pair in a heartbeat, even if they
cost more than the other options. Right now I would have a one in 20
chance of a problem that I don't have the patience to deal with.
That's more of my 2 cents worth.
Randy Ring - 1985 Toy PU.
Randy_Ring@environ.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 10:48:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: ARB Lockers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-06 10:15:24 EDT, Randy Ring replied to several
comments I made:
> ****************
> A Locker is NOT a Locker....
That is a silly statement...
>
> All "crap" and "old timers" aside, here are the facts and 10 reasons why
> NOT to buy an ARB.
>
> 1) ARBs have an incontrovertible history of design flaws and failure.
> 2) Since their introduction into the US in 1988, ARB has continuously
> made engineering changes to "fix" the reliability issue that has plagued
> them.
So, when Detroits came out, they had NO problems? Geez, this product is
still a baby, give it some credit. Like everything is perfect on the first
try.
> 3) Today, they still have a 5-10% failure rate! One in every 20
> installed has a problem.
And I can bet most are installer related problems.
> 4) The quality of some components has been poor.
Compared to what?
> 5) Too many components in the system with a significant probability of
> failure.
Where do you get this?
> 6) Unlike the Detroit Locker, ARBs use spider gears and although they
> are much stronger than stock spider gears, ARB's design continues to
> plague them. They have recently re-designed the Dana 35 C-clip model
> because the spider gears were breaking.
Well, my friend with a Jeep Wrangler went through 6 Detroits in one year.
And they are so good?
> 7) There is currently a re-occurring problem with gear oil getting into
> the solenoid causing latent engagement.
> 8) To engage the locker requires 90 to 115 PSI pressure. Any closed air
> pressure system is inherently prone to leaks, in this case, usually
> failure to engage.
Like I said, 99.9% of all leaks are due to installer error.(Obviously not a
statistical figure)
> 9) The ARB also has a disengage problem. It has metal springs (80 lbs
> of pressure) that are designed to disengage the locker. ARBs in front
> diffs of a vehicle that is in a typical "crossed-up" situation sometimes
> won't release without relieving the "torque" from the front end. This
> somewhat defeats the benefit of "switching off" your locker for better
> steering advantages.
This is one of the worst reasons you gave. This is common sence. Not to
mention the fact that the literature tells you this when you get it. The
"off" feature is mainly for road use, not mainly for having it on, then
turning it off in the middle of a turn. If the person thinks, turn the
locker off before they encounter a bind in a turn. Again, this would be an
operator failure, not mechanical failure.
> 10) The average initial cost of the ARBs, with installation, is usually
> higher than other options. If you look at your additional cost of loss
> like: telephone calls to your ARB distributor/installer, down-time,
> taking the vehicle in for re-work, inconvenience, frustration, other
> non-tangible discomforts, you have a hefty investment without the
> expected return.
To figure thiese things in is rediculous. You are first assuming the ARB
will break/have problems, which is an incorrect assumption. "non-tangible
discomforts"? I thought that was half the fun of building a truck?
>
> To ARBs credit, they have been "good" about warranty issues and have
> taken measures to try to satisfy the end-users and their distributors.
>
> FACT: The Detroit Locker has been around since the 1930s, essentially in
> its current design, and works all the time.
>
Sorry, but some do fail like everything else.
> Personally, I would love to have ARBs front and rear. And, if and when
> they become "reliable", I'll buy a pair in a heartbeat, even if they
> cost more than the other options. Right now I would have a one in 20
> chance of a problem that I don't have the patience to deal with.
>
> That's more of my 2 cents worth.
>
> Randy Ring - 1985 Toy PU.
OK, you go through all this (mostly incorrect) bashing, then say you would
love to have an ARB. What gives? Next time, try to look at this in
perspective, not with a biased view. Some of the "reasons" you gave could
have been left out..
By the way, do not think I am trying to degrade you, of that I am angry in
any way. This is simply a discussion, nothing more. I do thank you for your
reply.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 17:36:52 -0600
From: "ARTHUR RUMPF"
Subject: ARB's
To:
Here is my .02 worth on ARB's. I have had one in the rear of my 82 for 7
years. Only problem was when the adjustment ring on the backlash came loose
a few years ago (don't leave out that the little locking hook!), I ended up
with .25" backlash in a few weeks. The carrier was so loose it wore the
o-ring out. I caught it before any other damage occurred. The Richmond
gears (4.56) set right up again with no evident damage.
Anyway there is one situation where I don't like the ARB. Doing tight
switchbacks like Black Bear or Corkscrew, you want the locker in so you
don't lose traction when you lift a wheel on the tight turn. But the locker
keeps you from turning tight when you do have traction and shoves you over
the edge! Switching the unit in and out while
shifting/braking/backing/staring off into space at the edge of the cliff is
not fun. My old Chevota TLC had Eaton gov locks front and rear. You never
had to worry about them. If a tire spun at all, it locked. when you had
traction, it unlocked. I don't think they are available for anything but
GMs and TLCs. They don't like big tires and rough treatment, but I had 33''
tires and no trouble with mine in four years of use mostly in the Colorado
high country. Anybody know of anything similar for the toys? By the way,
the Truetrac will not lock with a wheel in the air (zero traction) unless
the brakes are applied according to the instructions. Might be tricky with
a standard tranny in some situations. Also, it's not warranted for tires
over 31". I just put one in the rear of my Jeep Wagginear but it's not
running yet to test it out.
Art Rumpf 82 sr5 Shortbed w/aftermarket Turbocharger
4.56 gears rear arb late model tranny/transfer 31 inch tires
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 21:42:02 +0000
From: David Booth
Subject: ARB Lockers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I'm really getting tired of the bashing about ARB lockers! I have one
in my '89 V6 4Runner and have not had a single problem!
If the ARB is such an unreliable locker, than why was it recommended
to me more often than the Detroit by hard core wheelers with plenty of
experience.
I have to wonder if the people bashing ARBs really believe that they
are inferior, or if they are just looking for a way to consol
themselves because they either could not or choose not to invest in
one (or two).
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 09:49:35 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: ARB's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Okay, here's my two cents worth:
I went with Detroits because of simplicity and reliability. Cost was also
somewhat of a factor. I would have gone with ARB's had the admission price
been lower, but $1100 for both axles, $200 for a compressor, and the much
higher installation expense (ARB's have to be installed, meaning drilling,
machining, etc., while Detroits pretty much just drop in).
If I could have had a complete ARB system front and rear for what I paid
for my Detroits ($1200 including R&P's and loose setup), I would have
bought them. But the price of admission was double, and after all, it IS a
16-year-old pickup...
No problems with the Detroits yet, and 40,000 miles...
- Nick
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 23:05:14 -0700
From: wgirindra@bbs.fronet.com (Wilkin Girindra)
Subject: ARB's
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Well it seems like the ARB controversy has started again.
Every one seems to have an opinion on what ARB's are like,
but I have had them in my vehicle for 1 year now and I love them.
Without a moments hesitation I will tell you they are the best
money I have ever spent on my truck. I have them front and rear.
As far as your direct questions.
1. I have had the ARB's in my 81 Toy for a year.
2. Have never experienced any problem with air leak.
I'm from British Columbia and we have very tough 4x4ing up here.
Snow, mud, heavy undergrowth, rocks you name it, they have never let me down.
I've used the lockers 2 to 3 weekends a month for 1 year.
3. I would put ARB's in any 4x4 I will own in the future. 100%
The only problem with them is that they are very expensive.
4. Customer service from ARB USA is unbelievably good. Top notch company.
When I bought the ARB's I was going through the same problem. It seemed
like a ton of money and it seemed like a bunch of people where saying
they where crap. I'm very glad I didn't listen to them. Most of the naysayers
hadn't had any 1st hand experience with them.
Wil
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 23:15:19 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: ARB's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Just my experience:
My buddy had an ARB in the front of his '85 Std. Bed SR5. Quite
impressive. The ability to lock or unlock the front diff. was quite an
asset in certian traction situations. He never had any internal or
external problems with the air supply system. In fact, when we installed
the compressor, we ran an additional air line to a quick-disconnect
inside the L/R wheel well to air-up tires. I'm positive we did not come
up with this idea first, but it worked very well. Unfortunately, some
dirtbag stole the truck with all of the goodies on it...
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R/M5
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 32"BFG All-Terrains
(brinkjm@earthlink.net) LockRight/4.10 Gears
********************************************************************
TLCA# (Still Waiting)
FOMR
MRVMA/DESERT EXPLORERS
And STILL waiting for ARB to build a unit for IFS front diffs.
------------------------------
Date: 2 Jul 1997 17:00:21 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: ARB survey
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 4:58 PM
OFFICE MEMO ARB survey Date: 7/2/97
Duckguy@aol.com wrote:
>1) When did you install the ARB Air Locker?
May 1991.
>2) Have you had Air leak problems with ARB air lockers?
No.
>3) Would you go with ARB Air lockers again?
Yes.
______________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ '85 4Runner (her project)
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com '91 4Runner (for sale)
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
______________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 22:04:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jimmy Tom
Subject: ARB survey
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Toy4x4-request@tlca.org On Behalf Of Duckguy@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 1997 12:37 PM
> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> Subject: ARB survey
>
> Are there two ARB AirLockers? Is one the good twin and the other the "Evil"
> twin? If anyone has good info on the effectiveness of the reengineering
> ARB alludes to, please share it with us. Thanks all
Check out the 'Cruiser digest #411.....somebody seems to have had some bad
karma w/ ARB re: 5 bolt units vs. 8 bolts.
Jimmy Tom
'92 P/U Std. Cab
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 03:33:10 -0700
From: "Michael Medart"
Subject: ARB Survey
To: "Toyota 4x4 (TLCA)"
___________________________________________________________
Since this is a major $ outlay and I like the concept of the Air
Locker, I
would like to survey the ARB OWNERS on the list:
1) When did you install the ARB Air Locker?
2) Have you had Air leak problems with ARB air lockers?
If so where was the leak,how long after install and did
warrantry cover?
3) Would you go with ARB Air lockers again?
4) If not what is your 1st choice after ARB?
___________________________________________________________
Bought my rear Air Locker in 1990 for my '88 X-Tra Cab. Have
put approx. 100K miles on it with absolutely no problems
whatsoever. No air leaks, no compressor failures, no switch
problems. Nothing, nada, nil. And I belong to a 4x4 club, so
it see's action AT LEAST one weekend a month, some of it very
tough (Sledgehammer probably tops the list). Go with an ARB
again? In a second.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
\\\\\
Michael Medart, Ventura, CA bigblue@anacapa.net
1988 Toyota 4x4 X-Tra Cab V-6, Rancho/Downey
lift, 4.88 gears, Detroit E-Z locker, ARB Air Locker
Rancho RS 9000's w/remote, Con-Fer shackles/
skid plates and roof rack , 33" BFG Muds. RTI: 651
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/////
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 00:08:18 -0800
From: John_Barron@bc.sympatico.ca (John Barron & Lori Hryniuk)
Subject: arb lockers
To: LandCruisers@tlca.org
>I would recommend that you stay away from ARB's. I've had two locker units
>come apart in the
>last year and a half. They were both the five bolt models, which have
>since been redesigned to
>eight bolts.
Yes, and there were many other little things that were changed too. It is a
far better unit now than when I bought my first one 7 years ago.
>When the first one came apart last november it blew up my ring and pinion.
>I'd had the units in
>for 10K miles, mostly highway. And since I run with the front hubs
>unlocked on the road, I
>explained to the ARB techie, bob, that the unit was near virgin. ARB
>responded by rebuilding
>the unit labor on parts, wholesale on parts, ring and pinion and
>installation my cost.
This sounds very suspicious. To have BOTH ARBs die in such a short period of
time is almost certainly a problem with installation. There is almost no way
that the front diff carrier can come apart as there is virtually no side
loading as it is a Full Floater axle.
>While having the front locker repaired in june, I thought it would be
>prudent to have my
>mechanic to look at the rear. Three of the five retaining bolts had backed
>out. the ring and
>pinion were chewed, and the two remaining bolts were finger tight. Called
>ARB, they told me to
>ship it to them so they could see if the problem was with the unit or
>improper installation.
>BTW original installation was at an ARB recommended shop.
An ARB recommended shop is basically a shop that sells ARBs and has some
techie to install them. The quality of the work will vary widely-talk to
others who have dealt with them and ask about their experience in setting-up
LandCruiser gears. In the rear of a C-clip axle, as in the case of most
LandCruisers sold in North America, it is crucial to have the carrier bearings
preloaded correctly. If this is not done exactly right (to factory specs) then
the ARB will be subjected to enormous side loading that will pull the bolts so
that they will stretch and lose their torque and undo, or they may shear.
I would also highly recommend that anyone who has an ARB that gets lots of
daily-driver use have the preload corrected or checked periodically to make
certain that it is good. I would also recommend that you use Toyota factory
bearings (the most reasonable costing ones that I can get here, too, I might
add). There seems to be a lot of variation in the quality of bearings and the
angle of taper which can seriosly compromise pre-load and endanger you
locker/lsd (of any type that is bolted together). If you 're looking for some
more info on this then I can recommend a shop(s) to call...email me privately
as I don't want to sound like I am advertising for them on the list.
>They totally backed away from any responsibility, saying that the lockers
>had been improperly
>installed. ARB certified mechanics/shops doesn't in any way insure the
>owner against improper
>installation. They sent me back the garbaged unitfree of charge...Thanks.
>Didn't offer to help
>me deal with the original shop to recover installation costs. No letter
>saying it was
>installers fault. Nothing.
Maybe try talking to them again. Be polite. Be understanding and helpful to
them. And be polite...you won't get anywhere if you're rude. It does sound
like it was an installation problem and you should talk to your ARB installer
about it...they should warranty their work, not ARB.
>And most frustrating, the tech guy said over and over that they had never
>had any five bolt
>units come apart.
I personally doubt that (yours did...). But then I don't have ant data/stats
in front of me.
>To which I asked 1)why did ARB take partial responsibility for my front unit
>2)why did ARB redesign the five bolt unit to eight bolts?
It is a better unit with many other design changes in areas that ARB didn't
have to do. All decent companies are always improving where they can. If you
want to build and sell a premium product at a premium price then you have to
do your reasearch and testing and improve you product before it fails. I would
also bet that they did have some 5 bolt failures and that they've had spider
gear failures and side gear failures, too.
>To question 1, chris, the techie,
>said the other techie:bob, who had okayed the work on my front locker in
>november, was no
>longer with the company.
If you're talking about Bob Pfeiffer....he's still there, and he's the most
helpful one I have talked to, with the exception of the President of ARB USA.
There may have been another Bob...
>And if ARB were to help every customer, they could not stay in
>business. Hmmmmm, changing priorities,implicit admission of problems with
>there products?
>To the second question:long uncomfortable silence.
I found them to be *very* helpful when I had repeated grief with one of my
ARBs. I took responsibilty for the gears, the bearings and the installation
and they examined and replaced my unit **free of charge**. I thanked them
profusely and was very, very happy (the unit was only *SIX years* beyond its
warranty at this point) with the level of service that I received.
>I've been reading with interest the postings regarding Warn winches. Like
>warn, ARB's are
>widely regarded as an excellent product for hardcore use. Unlike Warn,
>IMHO ARB is not helpful
>with customers problems.
>
>Rant mode off...
>Anyway, have any of my cruiser brothers and sisters had 5 bolt ARB's come
>apart? Heard of units
>that have come apart?
IMHO it is HOW you approach a company and what you expect of them that will
get you the most out of their customer service/public relations departments.
Be unassuming, be friendly, be cooperative...they don't really have to do
anything if they don't want to (unless it's required by law). If you have to
be assertive to get results be sure to do it in a way that never makes the
person who you're dealing with seem like an idiot or a boob. Be tactful and
polite. Ask to speak to their "supervisor" in a nice way etc.... You guys
should know all the rest of this.
I have had nothing but good dealings with ARB and the same goes for all of my
personal friends who have had to deal with them at one time or another with
respect to any of their products. They are a top-notch company and they have
some pretty darn good products on the market.
And re: ARBs falling apart: ARB knows that there are problems with their older
units (mainly the 4 bolt ones) and they are good about fixing/replacing them.
I have heard only a very few bad things about ARB's customer service and many,
many good things about it.
j.
**new email address**
John_Barron@bc.sympatico.ca
www.off-road.com/~irc
Rick
TLCA #5042
88 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd (mine) 31's, Bushwackers, lots more soon
94 4Runner SR5 V6 auto (hers) 31" BFG's, Optima, K&N...
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 1997 01:08:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: ARB's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-07-03 13:35:06 EDT, you write:
<<
Although I have not personally spoken with ARB USA on the 7.5" Air Locker,
the rumor I will carry over from the early days of the Land Cruiser list
is that they were unable to make one small enough to fit inside the 7.5"
ring gear and still be reliable.
>>
I have spoken with ARB USA about the 7.5" Air Locker. The reason they gave
me was that the stock CV joints would not hold up to the stresses of a full
locker that allowed no slip when locked. I do understand that it could be
done, but they do not want a problem like that coming down on their heads,
and I do not blame them.
Believe me, I have called several times and begged for one. That is the
reason I got from every representative I talked to.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:33:13 -0700
From: Sharky
Subject: Re: Rancho 9000's and in-cab controllers / ARB's
I already
>have an ARB in the rear diff and I've spent too much time (and $$)
>dealing with air leaks.
What kind of problems were you having with air leaks in your ARB's? I
have been tinking about getting a pair, but if I need to budget additional
$$$ for air line upgrades, I kind of need to know that up front befoere
I'm out the cash.
- - Brian
------------
I had one leak at the air compressor solenoid (minor fix) and a failed
main seal in the ARB itself (big fix). I will say that the ARB never
failed to engage during this, and would have worked happily for quite
some time, but I don't like diff fluid leaking in my engine compartment.
ARB has redesigned their main seal and sent me a new one free, but the
cost for taking the rear diff apart for repair is not covered.
Fortunately, Conejo Off-Road did mine for free even though it was past
warrenty. Would I use ARB again? I don't know...I really do like the
electric locker ideas that are coming up in here.
Randy Tan
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:35:21 -0700
From: "Randy Tan"
Subject: DAMN ARB LOCKER...
Ok, I give up. Ever since I had my ARB installed (rear only) it was
leaking diff fluid out of the compressor solenoid. After 7 months of this,
I finally got ARB to send their latest main seal after my installer took
the rear diff apart and found the problem. They were nice enough to
replace it for free, but I paid for fed-x on the new seal and two days for
a rental car. It really hurts cause the ARB is already friggin expensive.
It's been about 3 months and now it's leaking again, just as much as
before. My question is, do other ARB users on this list have this problem?
What can I do besides changing the seal again, which may fail just as
quickly, and taking into account I'm all out of favors from my installer.
Is there a one way valve i can install in the air line which will allow air
to the diff but keeps fluid back? This is just a real annoyance thing
right now, it dosen't prevent the ARB from locking, but I hate having fluid
leaking in my engine compartment. I know what the rest of you are
saying...I shoulda got a detroit locker. 8^)
Randy Tan
95 4-Runner
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 10:54:36 -7 GMT
From: "Leo G. Divinagracia III"
Subject: Re: DAMN ARB LOCKER...
> From: "Randy Tan"
>
> Ok, I give up. Ever since I had my ARB installed (rear only) it was
> leaking diff fluid out of the compressor solenoid. After 7 months of this,
> I finally got ARB to send their latest main seal after my installer took
> the rear diff apart and found the problem. They were nice enough to
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
i believe the problem is the installer...
> replace it for free, but I paid for fed-x on the new seal and two days for
> a rental car. It really hurts cause the ARB is already friggin expensive.
> It's been about 3 months and now it's leaking again, just as much as
> before. My question is, do other ARB users on this list have this problem?
yes, i have the problem. currently even. after wheelin' this weekend i can
hear the familiar rush of the diff fluid coming out of the solenoid. even
worse, my pump is in the rear portion of my 4runner, so i actually SMELL it
also!
> What can I do besides changing the seal again, which may fail just as
> quickly, and taking into account I'm all out of favors from my installer.
> Is there a one way valve i can install in the air line which will allow air
> to the diff but keeps fluid back? This is just a real annoyance thing
> right now, it dosen't prevent the ARB from locking, but I hate having fluid
> leaking in my engine compartment. I know what the rest of you are
> saying...I shoulda got a detroit locker. 8^)
>
two words: get a new installer. i called arb about this. they asked if i
had a toyota. immediately, they said it was a common thing to fail within 3-
4 months of ownership because of improper installation.
find another installer. even better, call arb and have them tell you a good
installer in your area... have your installer call arb for the proper
techniques.
and no, you should never have gotten a detroit... 8-)
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 10:38:50 EDT
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Re: ARB lockers
In a message dated 98-06-05 09:14:08 EDT, you write:
>
> Please explain the reference to oil on the left front shock. Does the
> compressor leak? I am considering ARB units for my 98 Taco, and have
> been informed by the distributor that they will be available in two
> months.
This is a problem that *some* ARB owners have faced, and is most likely a
problem with the way the ARB was installed (as with most ARB problems - ARB
installer is to blame). I have not had any problem like this from my ARB,
which has been in for 3 years. I would not worry to much about the ARB doing
this to you. I would recommend calling ARb & finding an installer that they
recommend. That way if ther are any problems ARB is much nicer about it.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 16:39:57 EST
From: "james stevenson"
Subject: Re: ARB or Detroit
> Somebody that has a DAILY driver with a Detroit Softlocker how
> does it behave?
For me is comes down to the pro’s and cons for Off road vs on road. On
road the ARB is far better than the Detroit. Off Road I think the
Detroit is better. On Road the Detroit will understeer into the corner
and switch rapidly to oversteer when it unlocks. It takes a little time
to get used to but is not dangerous in any way. Proper driving technique
will almost eliminate its effect. You also have the benefit of a fairly
long wheelbase, in a shorty like the LC40 the effects are much harsher.
The ARB on the other hand is the same as an open carrier when unlocked.
So the ARB shows no nasties on the road. Off Road is a different story.
Calling the ARB a locker is not really correct. Is really a part time
spool. By that I mean unlocked you have an open carrier, but when locked
you have a spool (No differential action). This has its down side in
that you can easily exceed the limits of the axle and break things if
you don’t unlock when doing tight turns. Most time you will find ARB
equipped rigs are left open till needed. A lot of the time your stuck by
this stage. You also have problems with the air hose getting ripped off.
The Detroit on the other hand is always locked but unlocks to relieve
stress when needed in turns. You also don’t have to think about it off
road unlike the ARB. On my LC75 I have ARB’s front and back. To make the
whole thing easier I wired the Switches up differently. The Power to the
ARB’s is disabled in 2wd (relay on Tcase 4wd detect switch). Also the
Power to the relay comes from the Indicator switch (rewired for 2
flasher units). All of this means that the locker can’t be engaged in
2wd and is disengaged when you use the turn signals or the ARB switch.
This makes life heaps easier as the turn stalk is easily accessible in a
hurry off road to make a turn and when the wheel straightens the
indicators go off locking the axle.
I have a mix of Detroit Lockers, TrueTrac's and ARB’s in my various rigs
none of the shop trucks have Detroit’s as I don’t like to think what an
employee is doing on the road. One of the pickups has True tracks both
ends. It is rarely offroad. I replaced the open front for more off road
performance and turfed the toy LSD in the back cause they are not worth
having off road as compared to other LSD’s lifespan is also short. The
other has a Tuetrac up front and Detroit in the back. This unit is
rarely driven my anyone else so I fitted the Detroit. This rig does
about 70% off road mostly on the farm. The LC75 has ARB’s as its used
50% offroad hauling parts and supplies. So ARB’s are fitted for employee
reasons. Finally TT2 has Detroit’s as does TT3. Reason being offroad
performance is paramount in these rigs.
My advise is to have a very hard think about the intended use of you rig
before deciding on any traction adding device. On one end is the Open
and the other Detroit. The ARB and LSD fall in the middle depending on
your mix of off road/onroad.
James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 23:32:52 -0700
From: "Michael Medart"
Subject: Fw: ARB or Detroit
> From: "james stevenson"
> Subject: Re: ARB or Detroit
>
> you have a spool (No differential action). This has its down side in
> that you can easily exceed the limits of the axle and break things if
> you don't unlock when doing tight turns.
Way back in 1990 when a shop did the install of my ARB the shop manager
took me with him on the check ride after they installed it. Part of the
check ride was doing circles in a parking lot with the air locker engaged
(rear axle). Didn't break anything then, hasn't broke on the trail even
after doing the same thing occasionally when rockcrawling. Been in for 8
years now.
> Most time you will find ARB equipped rigs are left open till needed.
> A lot of the time your stuck by this stage.
I've found that by keeping my eyes open when I'm wheeling I can see the
upcoming obstacle and push the magic button BEFORE I drive over it.
> You also have problems with the air hose getting ripped off.
Eight years...no rips. Guess I need to get out more often.
> To make the whole thing easier I wired the Switches up differently.
> The Power to the ARB's is disabled in 2wd (relay on Tcase 4wd
> detect switch). Also the Power to the relay comes from the Indicator
> switch (rewired for 2 flasher units). All of this means that the locker
> can't be engaged in 2wd and is disengaged when you use the turn
> signals or the ARB switch. This makes life heaps easier as the turn
> stalk is easily accessible in a hurry off road to make a turn and when
> the wheel straightens the indicators go off locking the axle.
That's an excellent idea James, but because I located the switch in the
dash right below the instruments (to the right of the steering column)
reaching it really isn't a problem.
Also someone wrote that their rear diff leaks profusely after getting it
installed. Again- - 8 years, no leaks.
I just thought I'd file some very positive experiences with the ARB system,
as anyone reading all the air locker flames would come to think that
they're crap, and they're not.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:56:44 -0700
From: David Fritzsche
Subject: ARB Leaking
>From the solenoid on the air compressor. The gear oil is leaking though
the ARB seal and going up into the engine compartment. This oil does
have a surprising amount of pressure on it as I've tried to plug it a
few times and it keeps popping out the plug eventually. Yes, my diff
breather works (I've tested it after some suggestions on this digest),
but since the oil is on the other side of a seal the pressure doesn't
bleed off. I'm open to other suggestions...unfortunately my warranty is
definitely done and diff work is beyond my limited abilities.
DO NOT PLUG THAT HOLE!!!!! That hole in the solenoid is where the system
vents the air when you shut off the ARB. The reason that you are getting
oil is the o-rings are leaking a bit. Call ARB and the will send you new
ones at no charge with the instructions on how to put them in.
David Fritzsche
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:42:08 EST
From: "james stevenson"
Subject: Re: ARB or Detroit
>Part of the check ride was doing circles in a parking lot with the
>air locker engaged (rear axle).
This all depends on many variables, Power, Tires, Terrain, Rate of Turn
ect. ect. I Wouldn’t advise that test on the front axle on full lock or
the back with truck loaded up. The point was that the ARB is not a
locker but a part time spool. A locker will disengage but the axle
exceeds limits where an ARB will not.
>I've found that by keeping my eyes open when I'm wheeling I can see
>the upcoming obstacle and push the magic button BEFORE I drive over
>it. Eight years...no rips (blue hose)
Was just saying it was something you don’t have to think about with the
Detroit and the potential is their for the hose to get ripped off. In my
ARB equipped rigs its fairly common to have this happen in forest
country (blue hose ripped off).
>That's an excellent idea James, but because I located the switch in
>the dash right below the instruments (to the right of the steering
>column) reaching it really isn't a problem.
I locate the ARB switches (front and rear) in the same location. I
usually have the ARB on all the time. The connection to the indicators
is a ARB disable. So when I need a Tight Turn I use the Indicators. The
ARB will engage when in indicators go off. This way you keep your hands
on the wheel and the re-engage is automatic.
>anyone reading all the air locker flames would come to think that
>they're crap, and they're not.
I agree, was pointing out the difference between the ARB and Detroit.
Any diff can be crap if not used in the proper vehicle. IE a street rig
with a Detroit instead of the LSD. My personal rigs I run Detroit’s but
the company rigs have a mix of ARB and LSD’s (True Trac) depending on
the Road/Trail usage. I would not fit a Detroit to a company rig opting
for the ARB. Reason being as the ARB (open) and LSD tolerates bad
drivers easier on the street.
James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:51:05 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: ARB vs True Trac
"Michael Hershauer" wrote:
>The question I have is that most people I have talked to fear the ARB system
>because it has hoses and lots to go wrong, not to mention the price!!
I think most people that bad mouth ARBs have either experienced a
problem due to installer error or are simply spouting unsubstantiated
fears or rumors. I've run an ARB in the rear now for 7+ years without
any problems at all. I did do the install myself and was very careful routing
the air line and making sure the seals were seated well.
Many people whine about the blue hoses, though I have never torn
one and could replace one in ten minutes if I were to tear one.
I'm now running an ARB in front (installed about 6 months ago). When
I initially built up the third member I tested it before installation and
found it would not unlock. After several calls to ARB USA in Washington
(Tim Lund) they requested I return the unit to them. I tore down the third
member and sent the ARB to Tim. He confirmed that it was defective
and sent me another one via overnight courier. I was a bit inconvenienced
by the whole experience but found their customer service to be very
good.
>I would like to get into Rockerpannel Pass and the Upper Sycamore etc...
Check out our club (Arizona Lo-Rangers). We do lots of crawlin' around there.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 14:16:26 EST
From: "james stevenson"
Subject: Re: ARB vs True Trac
Jay Wrote
>I think most people that bad mouth ARBs have either experienced a
>problem due to installer error or are simply spouting unsubstantiated
>fears or rumors.
Installer error acounts for most of the ARB's failures. I do have a
number installed in various rigs and think it's a great product but I
personally don't like the operation of them. While not a problem I find
for myself pressing the ARB switches all day (although routed via
indicators) is a real pain. Another reason is when unlocked you have an
open diff. If it were possible to have an ARB built upon an LSD
defferent story. I find for myself the automatic operation of the
Detroit much better. For rigs that I dont drive myself I install a
combination of True Track and or ARB lockers. I do this as not to make
others change their driving style on the road to accomidate the Detroit.
For me it comes down to a ballance of road vs tail manners. A dedicated
tail rig would get two Detroit's but if I needed it for more road use I
scale down through combinations of ARB, Detroit, and True Trac. Just my
thought make up your own minds.
James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 12:48:22 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: Re: ARB vs True Trac
"james stevenson" wrote:
>Installer error acounts for most of the ARB's failures. I do have a
>number installed in various rigs and think it's a great product but I
>personally don't like the operation of them. While not a problem I find
>for myself pressing the ARB switches all day (although routed via
>indicators) is a real pain. Another reason is when unlocked you have an
>open diff.
I have to agree with James that there are pros and cons about the ARBs.
I don't mind flipping the switches too much. As a matter of fact, since I added
the Marlin dual case setup I use my ARBs less. With good travel (keeping
the tires on the ground) and the low gears I can crawl a lot more stuff
open-open.
I have found I like the open operation of the ARB on the street over the
LSD action of the Downey unit I had in the rear. I no longer chirp tires
going around corners so the rear action is smoother on the street.
However, I did prefer the LSD in the rear on loose dirt roads. When I
was running hilly, loose roads in 2WD the LSD helped keep the rear
tires more stable and provided better traction. I could easily apply more
throttle without the rear tires spinning all over the place.
The ARB up front does make steering more difficult and you have to
learn more of a point and shot driving technique. But then with the
ARBs, line is less critical so you have more choices. Also, should you
turn it a lot while it is locked, axle bind may make it difficult to unlock
at times. I sometimes have to shift to neutral or back up a tad to get the
front ARB to unlock. However, NOTHING beats a fully locked front
axle when you're trying to claw one tire up a steep (vertical) face.
A Detroit up front will do it, as will a Lock-Right, but you have to deal
with never having the option of an open front axle.
Just some of my experiences to stir in the pot. Everyone has to decide
which TAD works best for their particular case. Looks like I've gone
and rambled on again........Is it Friday yet?
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
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