U-Joints
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 09:20:52 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: U-Joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
From: DRM033@aol.com wrote:
>I am about to replace the U-Joints in my 90 Toy truck. I was wondering if
>there was a specific brand I should look for that would be stronger, or just
>a better built product.
I don't think you can beat Spicer U-joints. They run about $15-20 each.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 10:04:14 -0800
From: "Locke Christman"
Subject: U-Joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> From: DRM033@aol.com wrote:
>
> >I am about to replace the U-Joints in my 90 Toy truck. I was wondering if
> >there was a specific brand I should look for that would be stronger, or just
> >a better built product.
>
> I don't think you can beat Spicer U-joints. They run about $15-20 each.
>
> - Nick
>
Nick,
I agree, it is hard to beat Spicer! However I have had to pay
$25-30 each (Portland, OR) for Spicer u-joints for the Toy. At the
same time and place to buy one for a domestic rig is about half as
much and it seems to be the same thing, just a different size.
Am I just getting ripped off or what? How much do u-joints
typically cost at a Toyota dealership?
Locke Christman
Hillsboro, OR
lac@feico.com
'80 Toy4x4 SB
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 08:58:09 PST
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: 4runner "thunk"
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>As I accelerate slowly from a stop, as I hit the gas there is a
>"thunk" somewhere in the drivetrain. I can best describe it as
>feeling as if you just passed over a small crack in the street.
>It's almost as if there was a tooth missing from a gearset and
>it slipped and "thunked" onto the next tooth.
>>This is more than likely your U-joints on the rear driveshaft. They run about
>>$25-$30. I recommend that you also replace the yoke that the u-joint sit in.
>>The yoke is probably worn out, too. Has anyone ever replaced these? My truck
>>needs it done also. Is it a one, two, or three bananna job? ;)
Though I never heard a "thunk" caused by my U-joints, I have had several
experiences with them. One of mine went out on the road, luckily while I
was starting from a light, not on the freeway. When the front U-joint on
the rear driveshaft fails, the potential for the front of the driveshaft
to fall to the ground, catch on something and lift the rear of the truck
like a pole vault pole is a disturbing thought. What it did do was warn me
by vibrating at low RPM's and I'm sure it was real loose before it went.
I did not understand the vibration, the truck was new to me, and I just
accepted it as part of the charm of an old 4x4. Anyway, went it went, it
beat the mounting holes in the flange yoke into ovals. I was close to a
shop, and the owner patched me up, and sent me on my way. Cost was $25 for
the U-joint and $50 labor - about 3/4 of an hour. He warned me to have it
checked at home. I had my first weekend of trail riding, then got home. I
still wasn't sure what to do to them, so I took it in to my local shop. They
found the guy had "peened" the yoke onto the U-joint and it was not tight.
They replaced the entire front end of the driveshaft, that's the way junk
yards sell them - forward flange yoke - U-joint - driveshaft slipjoint all
combined. Those are easy to replace, just remove the flange yoke from the
transfer case - 4 bolts - then hammer the slip shaft out of the driveshaft.
Be sure to keep the phasing of the U-joints correct by marking on the
outer shaft the location of the zert fitting on the slipjoint. This is
about 1/2 hour of work, easier than changing the U-joint itself. I have
bought 2 of these front assemblies now. The first put in by my local
mechanic, he charged my $95 for the junk yard parts. That set had a loose
fit between the flange yoke and the U-joint and a non-greasable U-joint.
I left it in for about 15K miles, keeping watch for additional wear. I just
replaced it again, preparing for this season. This time I went to the junk
yard, picked out a nice tight set with new greasable U-joint, and paid $45
for the setup.
The amount of work to replace a U-joint itself depends on how long the old
one has been in there, and how tight it is in the yokes. If they were as
old and rusty as my rear joint (rear driveshaft) it can be a real job getting
them apart. I recommend replacing the flange yoke, unless it is real tight.
I found new ones in NWOR for $45, and U-joints for $25. (That's why I bought
the whole setup from the junkyard for $45 for the front, a lot less work too.)
The rear one takes more persuasion, and I'd probably use new parts again, if I
do it again. I don't think I'd reuse a junk yard U-joint after pounding it out
of a yoke. The yokes are cast and tough. They can be reused as long as the
U-joint mounting holes are tight enough to keep the U-joint from slipping back
and forth after it is installed.
I've never had to mess with my front shaft, as it was rarely used. The first
owners of my truck did not use it off-road. The just ran it into the ground
on pavement. No snow here in CA either, so no on-road need for 4 wheel drive.
_________________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
____________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 13:23:44 PST
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: 4runner "thunk"
To: " Jared Rogers" , Toy4x4@tlca.org
>Thanks for the info on replacing the U-Joints. I am thinking about tackling
this
>job within the next couple of weeks on my 1989 truck. I'll have to buy the
>parts new, however. I've called around to a few junk yards and can't find an
>89+ 4WD Toyota. Go figure. The new U-joints are about $25. I probably wont be
>replacing the yoke. Do you think anything would be wrong with the yoke?
>
The ends of the u-joint are bearing cups which hold the needle bearings, inside
which the actual u-joint rotates. The cups are pressed into the yoke. On
the insides of the yoke are C-clips around the cups that keep them from sliding
out of the yokes. If the holes in the yoke are oversized through wear, the
cups will not fit tight. Mine was so bad the cups rotated in the yoke, instead
of the u-joint rotating on the bearings inside the cup. I felt this was bad
because it could cause heat which would cause the u-joint to expand and jam
and then break and then the drive shaft bashes around under the truck. If
your yoke is tight around the cups, it should be fine.
_________________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
____________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Ed wrote:
>The differential R&R can be staved off by
>1 - frequent seal and crush sleeve replacements
>2 - new bearing (about $40)
I crawled under her again last night and found that the main problem was the
rear/rear U-joint, again. I just replaced that thing about 15,000 miles ago
and last night I did it again. I'm getting pretty good at it, at least. The
place I bought the new one is not my regular parts place, they showed me a
Spicer (Dana - J**P ?) U-joint which is much more massive than the Beck-Arnley
ones I have been using. Plus, its zert-fitting for greasing is on the end
of one of the cups :-) Now maybe I can get some grease into it, my gun never
fit into those puny little right-angle zerts on the center of the spider on
the other U-joints I've used. I also packed a bunch of grease into the cups
when I assembled it this time. The Spicer even came with a kit of different
thickness "C" clips to allow for different flange/yoke spacings. I just used
the standard ones as my spacings were about 2.050" beween the yokes.
There is still a little side play on the pinion shaft that comes out of the
rear differential. I assume that is mis-adjustment or excessive wear of the
bearing. At least my driveshaft doesn't vibrate the whole truck anymore. I
really hate that feeling - this is the third time for my truck in 25,000 miles.
Now I can start saving for the rear locker I want, and do it at my leisure.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:12:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: axle wrap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-27 20:37:28 EDT, you write:
> I have a procomp 4" lift on my '87 4Runner. I think the Pro-comps and
> the trail masters are exactly the same. I know a guy who has a procomp
> and we can't find the difference. Any way the lift was real easy to
> install it took we a little over a day and I am by no means a major
> mechanic. My only dislike is the axle wrap I get but my frind is
> building me a torque rod.
> Ryan Bascom
I was having a big problem with axle wrap, and I attributed it to the blocks
on the rear of my truck. When I finally put U joints in the rear shaft, I
found something interesting. The joint had no play and felt tight. I got
the lower one out and found that on of the caps had NO needle bearings left,
only powder. Well, I replaced them and guess what? almost no axle wrap. I
don't know if that is why, but it is much better.
Now, is it possible this helped the wrap? Is there a way to make sure all
the caps get lubed? I lube the joints all the time, so that is not the
reason mine failed. Any suggestions?
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 14:37:08 EDT
From: markadrian@juno.com (Mark D Adrian)
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Barney McNamara writes:
So after the emergency u-joint fix, I took it in to my regular mechanic
near home. He found the nuts holding both flanges (front and rear) to the
transfer case were loose. The suggestion was that the lose flange had
caused the u-joint failure.
- --------------
Barney, this reponse begs the question, how do you determine when/if your
U-joints are bad? I had mine replaced (on the rear shaft) some time ago
and am very punctual about lubing them (every other oil change, or about
every 5,000 miles -- is this excessive?).
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 16:33:27 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: U joints
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"
OK, the lower rear U joint was going - again (well this one lasted for 80K
anyway)
After $paying$ for an install - (one hour of labor!!!) on a shaft I had
removed, I decided to do it myself this time.
Just fer yucks - I asked the dealer for an OEM U-joint - $57!
All that was open at 8:30PM was PepBoys - so I got a "Heavy Duty" U-joint
from 'em. It was a "Brute Force" brand - local here to me in Pottstown PA
It did NOT have a grease fitting. Since the shaft was vibrating enough to
take out the tranny bearings etc, I decided to give it a *go*. Of course I
started at 11pm. Needless to say - it took alot of swearing and banging to
get the damm thing apart. I started out real nice and then resorted to just
plain *wailing*. Did a nice job of dinging up a 1/2in 19mm socket.
Is there an "easier" way? Should I convert to the bolted yoke style u-joints,
or are the fixed yokes "better".
Does the OTC/Snap-On type press really work?
It would seem ideal to have a press that could not only work on the end caps,
but have some kind of bar that allowed you to press on the cross yoke
directly. That way you could push the individual caps off. Comments?
Still groggy, but at work....
EWong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 97 17:52:54 PDT
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Mark wrote:
>Barney, this reponse begs the question, how do you determine when/if your
>U-joints are bad? I had mine replaced (on the rear shaft) some time ago
>and am very punctual about lubing them (every other oil change, or about
>every 5,000 miles -- is this excessive?).
If you can feel play in the joints, they are starting to go bad. Get under
the truck and grab the yoke in one hand, and the driveshaft in the other.
You should not be able to feel any play when you rotate the two in opposite
directions. You can also check for slop or wear by trying to move the two in
the two axises (sp?) of the spider itself. The whole thing should be tight.
As far as lubing them, I was never succesful in getting my grease gun to fit
the right-angle zert fitting on the spider. That's why I like the Spicer
joint, the zert is on the end of the cup, hanging out where even I can get
a grease gun on it. I don't think checking/lubing every 5K is excessive. My
rear one went from tight to vibrating the truck on one 1200 mile trip. When
they really go bad, you can feel the vibration as you accelerate. Once you
get to 50-60mph, they seem to smooth out. When they break loose, they can do
bad things to nearby parts, and really do a number on the yokes.
Ed wites:
>Is there an "easier" way? Should I convert to the bolted yoke style u-joints,
>or are the fixed yokes "better".
I'd like to know the same thing, I use an old socket I don't mind losing when
I pound the suckers out. I do try to avoid dinging the shaft itself. I use a
small socket on top, and set the yoke on a large socket on the bottom that
the cup that is being pushed out can fit into, giving support to the yoke
without preventing the cup from coming out.
I use a 6" C clamp to press the new ones in, it seems to provide enough force
and control to prevent mashing them. Be sure to fill each cup with grease
as you assemble it.
> Does the OTC/Snap-On type press really work?
Don't know what that is.
>It would seem ideal to have a press that could not only work on the end caps,
>but have some kind of bar that allowed you to press on the cross yoke
>directly. That way you could push the individual caps off. Comments?
Are you talking about reaching inside, and pressing just one cap off? It
might work, but I don't know why you would want to do it that way. Both
have to come off, and once you get them moving one direction, they seem
to move easier in the other direction as well.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 08:50:58 PDT
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Todd wrote:
> I too am looking at ujoint replacement within the year.
My experience has been to replace them within a year of installation :-(
>1. While on the subject do people on this list prefer greasable or non
>greasable ujoints? That is, are these things on a Toyota more likely to
>need replacement because the bearings have gone dry or because a spider has
>snapped? I suppose 4wheeling location sort of pushes you into the greasable
>version whether you want it or not. Thoughts?
My failures have all been related to drying out. When you get them off, they
are totally dry, and at least one end of the spider has eaten all its roller
bearings. I've never snapped one, but I suppose enough power (more than a 22R)
could do it...
>2. If greasable and the zerk is between the spiders, do you place the
>fitting in compression or tension? I forgot how that goes and if anyone is
>replacing them this may be an issue.
I haven't seen a grease gun that can reach the zerk on the spider, so I
recommend the Spicers with the external zerk. I just put one on, and hope
it lasts.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 09:55:12 -0700
From: Locke Christman
Subject: U-joints
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
>>2. If greasable and the zerk is between the spiders, do you place the
>>fitting in compression or tension? I forgot how that goes and if anyone is
>>replacing them this may be an issue.
I think it should be under compression.
>
>I haven't seen a grease gun that can reach the zerk on the spider, so I
>recommend the Spicers with the external zerk. I just put one on, and hope
>it lasts.
I have always used one of those grease gun adapters with the sharp end
and they seem to work fine. You need to rotate the drive line so that
you can reach the zirch in between the yokes, but that should be no
problem. Sometimes it is easiest to drop the driveline, especially the
front end of the rear drive line. Plews Tools makes one of these
adapters (as well as others I am sure) and they should be available at
about any parts or department store that has an automotive section.
Definitely go with Spicer u-joints for the quality and less expensive
than Toyota.
Locke
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 13:49:54 -0500
From: Todd Hornsby
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 08:50 AM 5/8/97 PDT, you wrote:
>Todd wrote:
>> I too am looking at ujoint replacement within the year.
>
>My experience has been to replace them within a year of installation :-(
Bummer. Well honestly, mine are fine for now but I'm wondering how much
longer.
>My failures have all been related to drying out. When you get them off, they
>are totally dry, and at least one end of the spider has eaten all its roller
>bearings. I've never snapped one, but I suppose enough power (more than a
22R)
Yep, I'd go greasable. Snapping ujoints is probably only a concern to those
folks with HiPo V8 conversions. And then only if they are into drag racing
or something.
>I haven't seen a grease gun that can reach the zerk on the spider, so I
>recommend the Spicers with the external zerk. I just put one on, and hope
>it lasts.
Huh. It's tight but I use Brand X grease gun to reach the fittings on the
original ujoints (bought used, dont' know for sure they are orig.) on my '88
Depending on vehicle Spicer (and other brands) makes inner fittings and
solid HD ujoints w/out fittings. The end cap zerk skirts the whole
compression vs tension location issue of the fitting.
I've been thinking about this and to the best of my recollection the
preferred location is compression but I'm not 100% sure. But the more I
think about it, the more I like the end cap fittings anyway.
Saludos,
Todd
________________________________________________________________________
- -Todd Hornsby (San Antonio, TX) http://www.texas.net/~toddh
- -toddh@texas.net alt: thornsby@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 09:30:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: U joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-08 04:52:04 EDT, you write:
> 1. While on the subject do people on this list prefer greasable or non
> greasable ujoints? That is, are these things on a Toyota more likely to
> need replacement because the bearings have gone dry or because a spider
has
> snapped? I suppose 4wheeling location sort of pushes you into the
greasable
> version whether you want it or not. Thoughts?
> Saludos,
> Todd
I say greasable. I just like to feel like I am doing something to help :) I
changed mine two weeks ago, and nime was shot because on eof the caps had not
been getting grease, and had turned the needles to powder. I greased mine
once a month too.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 10:14:12 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: U Joints
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"
Barney McNamara had asked about the Snap-On/OTC U-joint press....
First off let me point out that OTC tools are never *cheap*. However, they
are of extremely high quality. Also, they are fully warranted -and they will
replace them if you manage to break them. In addition, the steel quality is
high - which can save your eyes (or at least major pain) when the tools do
break. Somehow, they manage to make the cast parts out of ductile steel, so
that the breaks do not result in flying metal.
Believe me - I know, and my eyes are grateful.
The OTC U-Joint press is basically a giant C clamp. The fixed end has a C
shaped saddle so that the bearing cap can pass through. They also make saddles
so that larger caps can be pressed out, or so you can press the caps back in.
Its uselful for ball joints and such, so its not strictly a single use tool.
The reason I wanted to press on the cross is to potentially make dissasembly
easier. The cross barely fits in the yokes even if there are no caps on the
yoke. In order to get the cross out, I've found that it helps to use carb
cleaner/degreaser to get the needle bearings to fall out. By pressing on the
cross, it *may* be possible to press out all 4 caps (as opposed to only 2 when
pressing on the opposite cap).
Perhaps this will make the cross removal easier.
Depending on the size of the "C" on the end of the OTC tool, it may work for
this.
I guess banging with a hammer outside on a gravel driveway at 2am in 40deg
weather with make do tools (Most of my tools are in NJ at my parents - I dont
have a garage at my house in Pennsy) was NOT conducive to working the cross
back and forth. I just wanted the thing apart and back together ASAP.
The yokes on mine are not *flat* so that the big socket trick didnt work too
well. I ended up finding an old rusty vise that I used to support the yoke.
The vise was opened wide enough to allow the bearing cap to pass through.
(the landlady next door has a tool shed that had a bunch of oddball tools and
stuff in it)
Oh - the OTC tool and the Snap-On are dead similar. I would NOT be surprised if
the Snap-On was the OTC tool. It sells for $150 to $200 with all the bearing cap
fixtures and a nice case...
Oh yeah - good warning Barney - bad/worn U-Joints can loosen the pinion nuts,
and wreck havoc on the main xfer output bearing - as well as make you deaf.
Also - I check mine freqently, but the failures that I have had were due to
seal failure rather than lack of overall grease. When the seal goes, the
grease just comes out of the cap an
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 12:14:51 -0500
From: Todd Hornsby
Subject: U joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 09:30 AM 5/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>> snapped? I suppose 4wheeling location sort of pushes you into the
>greasable
>> version whether you want it or not. Thoughts?
>> Saludos,
>> Todd
>
>I say greasable. I just like to feel like I am doing something to help :) I
>changed mine two weeks ago, and nime was shot because on eof the caps had not
>been getting grease, and had turned the needles to powder. I greased mine
>once a month too.
I'd lean towards greasable too. Its what the factory used. Even though the
design is structurally weaker I don't think these engines have the torque
to bust 'em. If they get wet a lot, greasable is very important and IMHO a
must have.
Saludos,
Todd
________________________________________________________________________
- -Todd Hornsby (San Antonio, TX) http://www.texas.net/~toddh
- -toddh@texas.net alt: thornsby@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 10:05:41 -0600
From: Tony Bartlett
Subject: u-joint replacement
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
While at a driveline shop with a friend having his driveshaft checked
out I saw the worker remove the u-joint real easy. He used an air
hammer with a blunt tip on it, then hit the driveshaft with it right
next to one of the caps, backed the cap right out. I have not tried
this but I thought it was incredible.
As for u-joint reliability. I had my stock ones for 12 years with over
220k miles on them. They saw lots of off road use and I lubed them
regularly. The only reason I replaced them is I had new driveshafts
made to get rid of my center support bearing (85 xcab), using spicer
u-joints.
to grease or not to grease. I like greased joints but I do read alot of
driveshaft articles and some well known driveshaft people like using
sealed u-joints.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 16:32:30 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: U joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack Alford and Barney McNamara
got nailed for Spicer U-joints:
"Good idea, but I haven't spent the second $30
yet. If you can tell me where to get them for
$18, I'd buy a spare."
"Tell me too, I recently had my rear driveshaft
retubed and since they had to take it apart to
do it. It was no extra labor for new u-joints
so I had Spicer u-joints put in, $35 each !
Ouch ... After that, I couldn't afford a spare."
Driveline Service of San Jose
1567 Almaden Road
San Jose, CA 95125
408.286.0162
fax 408.286.0174
http://www.driveline-service.com
(A member of the off-road.com advertiser family, too)
They also build killer custom shafts. After I get my Crawler put in, I'm
having them make oversized-tube, Chevy U-jointed shafts front and rear. 600
frogskins for both, though. Ouch.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 97 16:49:50 PDT
From: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
Subject: U joints
To: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest), Toy4x4@tlca.org
>Driveline Service of San Jose
>1567 Almaden Road
>San Jose, CA 95125
>408.286.0162
>fax 408.286.0174
>http://www.driveline-service.com
>(A member of the off-road.com advertiser family, too)
>
I went over there at lunch - Spicer u-joints are now $20 plus tax, when I
mentioned Nick's name as recommending them, they offered to raise the price
to $100 ......
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Return-Path:
X-Sender: nickkres@mailhost.batnet.com
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 09:29:43 -0700
To: barney@flowpoint.com (Barney McNamara)
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Re: U joints
>I did see a bunch of their work on the front counter, and it looked nice.
>I've talked to a couple people who replaced their stock driveshafts with
>customs, I'm not sure why... If they needed different lengths due to new
>trans/xfer cases I can understand, otherwise do you think the Toyota shafts
>are too weak? Are you getting standard Spicer 1510 u-joints in your new shafts
>or something bigger? Standard yokes, or custom?
Chevy U-joints are 50% bigger; oversized dia. shafts resist twisting more.
Billet flanges again stronger than stock. Apparently, I'll need all this
when I put in my Marlin Crawler (more torque on drivetrain parts).
- Nick
--------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:58:00 -0600
From: John Schultz
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and
> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.
> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
> --
>
I hope that I can describe this adequately. I always carry an 8 inch C Clamp
for U-Joints. I use a small socket to press on one cap and a large socket for
that the other cap fits into so it has a place to go.
Boy that sucks, let me try again......
I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket
(larger than the hole) over the other cap. I then clamp a large c-clamp over
this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down. It presses the joint
right out of the yoke.
E-mail me if no one comes up with a better explanation. I can usually write
but this one has me finger tied.
John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 19:18:42 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 27 Jan 1998, John Schultz wrote:
> Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> > whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and
> > a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.
> > I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
>
> I put a small socket (smaller than the hole) against one cap and a large socket
> (larger than the hole) over the other cap. I then clamp a large c-clamp over
> this whole schmeel (technical term??) and torque it down. It presses the joint
> right out of the yoke.
>
I figured it out - mine was the original, and was getting a little play in
it. I finally dropped it in a vice, stuck a socket on one end, and beat on
it till it popped out on the other side, then I grabbed the side that was
popped out with the vise, and tapped the yoke away from it. lather rinse
repeat...
Its a good thing i changed it out - one of the caps was almost bone dry
and was obviously the one giving me problems, while the other 3 still had
lots of fresh grease in there. I noticed the play when swapping 3rd
members on my recent diff project. Maybe its my imagination, but I am
feeling much less backlash in the drivetrain now. I found a U-joint at
NAPA that hass the grease fitting on an end cap. Much easier to get to,
but I hope I don't shear it off on the trail. Is there a flush-mount plug
available? maybe something with a hex-head? I'd like this joint to last
155,000 miles like the last one :)
This was by far the easiest project I've done in a while. I sure don't
wanna wrestle a front IFS diff in again any time soon.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 00:32:01 EST
From: DRM033
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 98-01-28 00:25:05 EST, you write:
> Is there a flush-mount plug
> available? maybe something with a hex-head? I'd like this joint to last
> 155,000 miles like the last one :)
I had the same problem with the last rear U joint I changed - one bone dry cap
and the rest were fine. I think this is a design flaw in that the grease
takes the path of least resistance, and the cap that may be too tight is
starved. The only way I see around this is to make sure you grease the joint
before it is in, and that there is grease to all four caps.
By the way, If you get a rock close enough to the joint to pop the fitting on
the end of a cap off, you will probably have worse problems than a sheared
fitting...
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 21:50:45 -0800
From: James Brink
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and
> a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.
> I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
An old connecting rod wrist pin from a 22R makes a great pounding tool.
Works a lot better than Snap-On sockets (we're talking really desperate
here) IMHO.
- --
Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 1986 Std. Bed 4x4
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@Off-Road.com
********************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 01:10:11 -0800
From: Brandon Miller
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Put a socket bigger than the u-joint on one side of the driveshaft and one
smaller than the u-joint on the other side and squeeze it in a vice or bang
away- works for me
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:14:38 -0600
From: Clif Moyers
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The Toyota Manual describes different thickness clips to be used during
u-joint replacement. The ones I got from NAPA had one set of clips
which left a little (maybe .010") slop.
Ideas?
Clif
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 05:37:06 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: u-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 28 Jan 1998, Clif Moyers wrote:
> The Toyota Manual describes different thickness clips to be used during
> u-joint replacement. The ones I got from NAPA had one set of clips
> which left a little (maybe .010") slop.
It never even occurred to me that the the clips could be of different
thicknesses. Mine was a napa unit (heavy duty, #285 i think) and it had
way more clips than i needed. I hope i used the right ones! I think there
was 7 total - the 3 remaining are all .093" thick.
ej@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/~ej
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 07:51:07 -0800
From: Dan Merrick
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The easiest way to install u-joints is with a hydraulic press. You would be
surprised at how inexpensive they are from cheap tool suppliers. I got mine
from Harbor Freight...mail order, free shipping. It makes any kind of
bearing installation a breeze.
Otherwise, use a large vise and various size sockets to press the old parts
out and the new ones in. It can be helpful to tap(very gently)the area on
the flange or driveshaft(half-circle shaped area) that surrounds the
u-joint caps. This area may undergo extreme tension or compression as you
press fit the caps in place. The tapping action helps relieve some of the
stresses and aids in aligning the cap to the flange(or driveshaft). Use a
smooth faced hammer!!! The key word is "gently"...
>whats the shade-tree method of removing u-joints? I've got a loose one, and
>a new one ready to go in, but the manuals I have say i need a special tool.
>I know there's a more 'bubba' way of doing this :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 12:58:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud
Subject: u-joints
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}"
I believe that they are a metric pipe thread (6mm) and yes they do make
steel hex socket plugs for them. If they are standard pipe thread they
are even easier to find. You can get them at some well stocked auto
parts places or an industrial pipe fitting place.
Perhaps you could also use those plastic caps that they put in grease
fitting holes from the factory on some cars. You know, the ones that
everyone has to throw away the first time you want to grease something!
Bud
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 10:22:14 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: u-joints & long story
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Bear with me - there's a comical story in here somewhere...
I personally never had access to a vise big enough to do the
"press it off" trick". I have done 3 U-joints on my Yota via the
beat it to death method. I hope I haven't damaged anything
on the yokes :(
Well - I now have a very customized 19mm Craftsman socket
and a 17mm Husky impact socket (similar outside diameters)
sitting in the toolbox in the truck. A 4lb sledge makes short
work of the pounding part as well.
The problem is that as you pound one cap in (to get the other
cap out), there isn't enough clearance to get the other cap
all the way out. In order to get the other cap off - you have to
"crack/shatter" the edges of the two caps that run 90 degrees
to the cap you are removing. This takes time and brute force :(
A "fork" shaped tool that could press on the cross yoke rather
than pressing on the yoke via the end cap would seem to make
this whole affair much easier.
(story)
The Upper U joint was going on my rear driveshaft. I needed to
get to work and stuff, and I couldn't make it back to my parents
garage that weekend because - well, it was really loose. The
last time I tried a long distance drive with a bad U-joint - well
the diff wasn't too happy. (actually, the diff was already unhappy,
but continual shimming kept it alive for another 130K- go Yota!)
Because of the people on the TLCA list, I had a SPICER version
of the Yota Ujoint in the spare parts box in the back of the truck.
It sure looked nicer than the $9 Pep Boys special that I had in the
lower U-joint (its all that was open at that time). Cost more too :(
This time I was prepared - I had a 4lb sledge. I had the 17mm Impact
socket (no chrome to splinter off and slice my finger tips). But I
didn't have anything to pound on (I rent a small guest house in
the "country").
So, I went rummaging through the lady's tool shed (she lets me
borrow some of the weird/wonderful/ancient/rusty tools that are in
there - she doesn't even know what half that stuff is. In return she
borrows CDs from my collection - usually the classical stuff).
Buried in the corner is a large tree trunk section and an ancient
anvil bolted/nailed to the top. Wow!
After clearing a path through the assorted flotsam, I rolled the stump/
anvil (along with a saw horse) out into the gravel driveway. Now this
was cool. No more bending down to pound on the shaft on the ground!
I could work standing, with the shaft at waist level.
The anvil was ancient and rather rusty looking. So just to see
the condition of the surface rust, I figured I'd knock some of the
scale off with the sledge. After a dozen wacks - some aided
with a chisel - nothing. After some head scratching, it occurred
to me that this was no "decorator" anvil - it was probably used
to make horse shoes on. (I live in the "chi-chi" section in the
far NorthWest of Philly - it IS horse country) Therefore, that
"scale" was probably work hardened and embedded with
silicon - this was a "real" item.
So there I am - 10pm in the dark, with a headlamp on, standing
in the chill fall air in the middle of the driveway, wailing away
at the Ujoint on a drive shaft, when the landlady comes home.
She Deerlights me in mid swing, and then rolls down the window.
"Is that my grandfathers anvil?"
"Yeah - I got it out of the shed"
"Oh dear - you'd better not damage it!"
"Yes ma'am - I'll be careful!"
(wait for her to go inside the house... continue to beat
the snot outta the U-joint)
EWong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:24:47 -0800
From: Barney McNamara
Subject: U-joints
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> The Toyota Manual describes different thickness clips to be used during
> u-joint replacement. The ones I got from NAPA had one set of clips
> which left a little (maybe .010") slop.
The Spicer u-joints come with two sets of three pairs of different thickness
clips and instructions. The idea is to measure the gap on the inside of
the yoke, and use the matching clips to center the joint in the yokes. Mine
always seem to match up with the default thickness clips, maybe these joints
are also used on other driveshafts?
>The problem is that as you pound one cap in (to get the other
>cap out), there isn't enough clearance to get the other cap
>all the way out. In order to get the other cap off - you have to
>"crack/shatter" the edges of the two caps that run 90 degrees
>to the cap you are removing. This takes time and brute force :(
I find I can pound one side out, then grab the cap with a pliers to get
it the last little bit out of the yoke. Then pound on the joint itself,
with the small socket, back in the other direction to push the other
cap back through its side of the yoke. The pounding gets easier once the
caps start moving.
This is one of my favorite jobs .... My thumb finally has healed after
whacking it with my 3 lb sledge on the 4th of July. I now grease those
Spicers every oil change, or whenever I think of it.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
( barney@flowpoint.com ) stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca. 8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:45:24 -0700
From: "Raymond Kumar"
Subject: re:ft driveshaft u-joint
Tru cross makes front shaft uj's for 79-83 models paart#1510-1
Ray
------------------------------
Back to the top of this thread
Back to the top of the Driveline - Clutch to Differentials Threads Group
Back to the top of the Technical Discussion Groups
Back to the top of the Toy Thread Tree