Head and Tail Light Upgrades
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:08:13 -0800
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Headlight wiring
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"
I've blown a headlight and have ordered a pair of
those fancy Hella Vision plus H4/reflector units.
They come with a 55/65 watt hi/low beam, but I
was wondering just how high a high beam I can
have with the stock wiring... a 55/100 or 55/130
would be a sweet stealthy setup, yet legal on
lowbeam.
I suppose I could just get the H4 elements I want
and if the stock wiring can't handle it, I could wire
in some relays, but I'd like to keep at as simple as
possible.
I've got 50 watt backup bulbs (Blazer brand,
non-halgen) that I got for $2.99 apiece, and they
turned out to be a great cheap trick, and put out
a lot more light than the stock 20ish watt bulbs.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:23:52 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Headlight wiring
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> I've blown a headlight and have ordered a pair of
> those fancy Hella Vision plus H4/reflector units.
> They come with a 55/65 watt hi/low beam, but I
> was wondering just how high a high beam I can
> have with the stock wiring..
Eric,
I have a good friend who (about 6 months ago) put the same replacement
lights in his truck. He uses the 55/100 watt combo with the stock
wiring. He hasn't had any problems. I intend to do the same swap in my
4Runner but there are other things which have priority at the moment.
Scott
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 07:53:13 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: Headlight wiring
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
"I've blown a headlight and have ordered a pair of
those fancy Hella Vision plus H4/reflector units.
They come with a 55/65 watt hi/low beam, but I
was wondering just how high a high beam I can
have with the stock wiring... a 55/100 or 55/130
would be a sweet stealthy setup, yet legal on
lowbeam.
"I suppose I could just get the H4 elements I want
and if the stock wiring can't handle it, I could wire
in some relays, but I'd like to keep at as simple as
possible."
I put in a set of 55/60 "Off-Road only" (but European-legal) H4's a few
months ago and they're PLENTY bright; bright enough that I constantly get
people flashing their brights at me when mine are on low beam, and yes,
they're aimed correctly. If the "flashers" persist, I hit 'em with the high
beam and watch 'em swerve.
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 01:46:31 -0500 (EST)
From: JSell23701@aol.com
Subject: Headlight wiring
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I've had the full euro-spec Hella H4 headlamps in my '89 V6 4Runner for over
7 years now with no problems. I'm running 55/100 watt bulbs with stock
wiring along with 55w driving and fog lamps (on separate relays). Nothing
has cooked the wiring or alternator and I've had to replace one bulb after
losing a low beam last year. Superior visibility both high and low and no
one oncoming flashes me. I'm always behind the wheel, but friends tell me
the lights are less "offensive" than the newer model Ford factory halogens...
One suggestion: if you are springing for the headlamps also invest in clear
headlight covers. They are cheaper than replacement lamps and have saved my
lenses more than once.
Anyone have any suggestions on making grill removal from '85 - '89 4Runners
easier? The inset plastic snaps are enough to make you reach for a pry bar.
Jim Sell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 22:15:26 -0800 (PST)
From: TOM ROMPIES
Subject: hella wiring
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
In response to the gentleman running the hella lights or wanting to. You
can go ahead and get them they wont blow anything, they problebly were one
of the best investments I made in my truck. Irun the 90/130 and love them.
I have no problem with oncoming traffic since they are aimed just right.
You will notice a difference if you also order the wiring harness for them.
At 50/100 you will only get better results when your highs are on but it is
big, also they will last longer. I am going to buy some new bulbs soon the
100/150 and for that power hella recomends the harness. Reason being, the
power required by he bulbs can not be handled by the smaller stock wires and
the lights will be dimmer. With the larger wires more juice will flow to
the beams and more light will be produced. I am sure someone can be more
technical about it but you should get the jist of it. The harness runs
about $75.00 to $100.00 deoending who you get it from but that is a kit that
you just snap in with two relays in a few minutes ( give or take) I hope
you can use this info and your future looks bright ( pun intended)
"TASTE DEATH/LIVE LIFE"
TOM ROMPIES
E-mail romps@earthlink.net
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:54:24 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Headlights and grille
To: " - (052)JSell23701 (a) aol.com"
TLC
I dont think that 100 watt bulbs are going to cause a car fire - the fuse
should blow
in the stock harness before that happens. However, the stock wires are rather
wimpy,
and there may be enough voltage lost at the 100w level to cause premature burn
outs
of the 100w bulbs.
Besides, the kit comes with 55/60s. Put em in and run em first - since the bulb
is now
accessible from behind - swappin em out is MUCH easier than before.
With respect to the grille removal on the 84/88 type grilles. The clips on my
88/89 4Runner are designed to be REAL easy to be removed. Get a flat bladed
screwdriver (the larger ones actually work better if I recall correctly) and
insert it into the slot thats in the bottom of that "well" where there is
either a slot/clip or a screw (one of mine has a phillips screw) twist the
blade slightly (about 30 deg last I recall) and gently pull back on the
grille. That one clip should "pop loose" from that hole. Work you way around
the the grille and then deal with the one phillips screw. It should drop out.
If it wasnt for the PIAA 80 series in front of the grille, I could get the
thing out in under 1 min :(
Installation is even faster - line it up and gently push over over the top of
each clip - takes more time to put in the one screw than anything else
EWong
------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 23:56:49 -0600
From: 4RUNNER4X4 <4RUNNER4X4@prodigy.net>
Subject: 55/100 WATT HEADLIGHT
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have a 85 4Runner and i have used 55/100 H4 watt headlight without any
problems and no burn out for 9 years now, they work great and i
wouldn't go without them.
chuck schladenhauffen
4runner4x4
-
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 17:09:44 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: 55/100 WATT HEADLIGHT
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> OK, all of you have convinced me that I would like to upgrade to the
> 55/100 watt halogen headlights. Could someone please post a source?
You can find them at 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers. If you don't have one of
their store near you they do mail order too. I haven't had time to
check it out, but I found their websight on Ryan Combers websight.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wheel/ I'm sure it'll have the info you
need.
Scott
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 14:12:47 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Hella Headlights
To: Toy 4x4 List
Wow those Hella headlights are NICE! On my way to the 4Runner Jamboree
in Barstow, I stopped by Performance Products in Van Nuys (near LA).
They didn't have the steering stabilizer I wanted, and the gear shift
knob didn't fit like it should, so I just HAD to buy SOMETHING. I
didn't go 100 miles out of my way to go home with nothing, besides I
just HAD to save the shipping charges. :)
So I got the Hella headlight replacements I've been wanting. They're
the DOT approved ones. I also up graded the bulbs to 55/100W. The low
beams are brighter, but the light is distributed appropriately, so I
haven't had one person high beam me yet. The 100W high beams are flame
throwers! They put out A LOT of light, and its really white light.
With my stock high beams as I was driving into camp down a long straight
desert dirt road I only felt comfortable at 35mph. With the Hella's I
was comfy cruising at 50mph, and when I pushed it, got up to 65mph. All
the bright white light make a huge difference.
Like others have said the sharp cut off with the low beam will take a
little getting used to, but they are well worth it. Installation in the
middle of the desert Saturday evening, only took 15 minutes, including
removing the grill. I'm gonna get some of those headlight grill guards
tonight to protect my investment.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
-----------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 12:41:37 -0700
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: lights/fog lights
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
Chris Caldwell wrote:
> I was wondering if the Hella headlight upgrade that you were referring
> to was the replacement bulb or the actual headlight. I would love to do
> the same thing, but I am not aware of an upgrade for the headlight
> greater than 35/65. Do you or anyone else know of a glass encasement for
> the bulb that is available that would install easily in place of the
> 6054 headlight?
I've got the Hella replacements for square-headlight toyotas (I >think< its
the 6054 replacement, in any event, they fit my 87...) from Performance
Products. They come with 55/60W bulbs, but NWOR, Performance, Downey, and
others have much higher powered alternatives that plug into the hella
reflectors. 55/100 is a nice choice. Anything much hotter and you'll need
new headlight wiring.I really like these headlights.
- --
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 22:32:48 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: lights/fog lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> Chris Caldwell wrote:
> > I was wondering if the Hella headlight upgrade that you were referring
> > to was the replacement bulb or the actual headlight. I would love to do
> > the same thing, but I am not aware of an upgrade for the headlight
> > greater than 35/65. Do you or anyone else know of a glass encasement for
> > the bulb that is available that would install easily in place of the
> > 6054 headlight?
>
> I've got the Hella replacements for square-headlight toyotas (I >think< its
> the 6054 replacement, in any event, they fit my 87...) from Performance
> Products. They come with 55/60W bulbs, but NWOR, Performance, Downey, and
> others have much higher powered alternatives that plug into the hella
> reflectors. 55/100 is a nice choice. Anything much hotter and you'll need
> new headlight wiring.I really like these headlights.
I ran into a fella from down from British Columbia at the 4Runner
Jamboree. He says he's been running the Hella headlights with something
like a 80/120W for a couple of years w/no problems.
Chris,
About my fog lights...they're the 550's CLEAR lens. I personally hate
the amber lens, probably cause they're used as corning lights much more
than fog lights. (I don't see much fog). I don't really the think the
500FF would be worth the $$$ either. I only paid $50/pair for my
550's. If anyone cares...I've run bulbs as hot as 115W in the 550's.
The lens is so accurate that if the light is aimed properly you won't
offend other drivers, even in the city, even at 115W. However, I did
run into a heat problem with the 115W bulbs. I had them on for a while
(so they had gotten hot) and I drove over the hill into Santa Cruz one
night (it's on the coast), I hit just a little rain, and when the cool
H2O hit the lens it cracked it bad. IMHO, you won't have any problems
running 75-85W bulbs, but its not worth going higher in a Hella 550 due
to possibility of cracking a lens.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 14:27:06 -0400
From: Rick Furnival
Subject: lights/fog lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris,
I saw at Wal*Mart, some GE "High Output European Headlights" that were
standard sealed beams rated at 55/65W. I have the Hella H4s that replace
the stock lamps with reflectors and bulbs and run the 55/100W bulbs. I
like them a lot! I did have the Hella 55/66W bulbs at first but wanted
more candlepower. The Hellas cost me $90 for the receptacles and 55/66W
bulbs and $15 for the 55/100 replacements. Two GE HO 55/66W units would be
$30 at Wal*Mart. You'll have to decide:)
Rick Furnival, P.E.
furnival@citizen.infi.net
Sullivan, Donahoe & Ingalls, PC
Engineers, Land Planners & Surveyors
http://www.sdi-pc.com
Phone: 540-898-5878 FAX: 540-898-3390
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 12:01:33 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: lights/fog lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Rick Furnival wrote:
> I saw at Wal*Mart, some GE "High Output European Headlights" that were
> standard sealed beams rated at 55/65W. Two GE HO 55/66W units would be
> $30 at Wal*Mart. You'll have to decide:)
I ran the Sylvania 55/65W sealed beam lights in my last car. They were
a nice improvement over the standard lights, but can't really compare
with a 100W high beam.
For the money, the 55/65 are great.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 May 1997 11:05:25 -0400
From: Philip
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #158
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
If you want to replace the headlights with Hella's, the part number is
72206 from Hella, these are the H4 200mm rectangle replacements. I have
them and have installed the 80w/100w configured bulbs. This is
different from the vision plus series, which are DOT approved. The H4s
are not DOT, but do a hell of a job. I very rarely get blasted by
others highbeams because the optics are really decent on the H4s. I
would recommend them to anybody. They are really fantastic. I do have
the vision plus from Performance Products on my wife's car, but these H4
lights are night and day difference. The vision plus, does not allow
for the 80/100 configuration upgrade.
Hope this helps!
Phil
95.5 Tacoma Sx 4x4 "full of lights"
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 20:37:14 -0500
From: Chris Caldwell
Subject: Back-up lights
To: 4x4 digest
FWIW, I wanted to share my oppion on the halogen back-up bulbs that are
advertized as three times britter than stock. Well, if this is true, I
guess my Tacoma rear lens doesn't really care. I purchased one at $14 to
install just to compare. In stepping back away from the truck I couldn't
see a differance. I have asked others to gander without telling them
which one is supposed to be brighter and they can't tell the differance
either. I wonder if they share the same advertising agency as
Splitfire?!
Chris Caldwell
caldwell@vol.com
(95.5 Tacoma Xcab 4x4 V6, TJM Bullbar, K&N, soon a Lock-right)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 18:27:42 -0700
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Back-up lights
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"
Funny you should mention this. On the toyota 4runner pages at Off-road.com
this month's "Cheap Trick" is a low-buck replacement for the backup lights,
that is 50 watts (stock is about 20) and they cost $2.99 apiece.
Install one at a time and compare brightness; at least with the ones I
found there is a huge difference.
On Wednesday, May 07, 1997 6:37 PM, Chris Caldwell[SMTP:caldwell@vol.com]
wrote:
> FWIW, I wanted to share my oppion on the halogen back-up bulbs that are
> advertized as three times britter than stock. Well, if this is true, I
> guess my Tacoma rear lens doesn't really care. I purchased one at $14 to
> install just to compare. In stepping back away from the truck I couldn't
> see a differance. I have asked others to gander without telling them
> which one is supposed to be brighter and they can't tell the differance
> either. I wonder if they share the same advertising agency as
> Splitfire?!
- --
- - ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 00:34:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Back-up lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-08 00:24:26 EDT, you write:
> Funny you should mention this. On the toyota 4runner pages at Off-road.com
> this month's "Cheap Trick" is a low-buck replacement for the backup
lights,
> that is 50 watts (stock is about 20) and they cost $2.99 apiece.
>
> Install one at a time and compare brightness; at least with the ones I
> found there is a huge difference.
I installed some from a local parts store and they were made by Night Blaster
and were supposedly 50 watts.
About 2 bucks each, and they offered no improvement in the side by side
comparison. I think the main problem is the reflection qualities around the
bulb: they suck.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 11:52:24 -0500
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Back-up lights
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
>> I WANT THESE! Where do you get 'em, or what's the url for the web page
>> that gives the info.?
>
>Go to http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/4runner.html
>
>Then click on 'Cheap Tricks'
>
>I found the bulbs at a local 'Al's Auto Supply', but I don't know how
>widespread the chain is.
I bought mine at Wal-Mart, just remember not to leave the truck in
reverse a LONG time or the extra wattage from the bulbs will melt
the tail light lenses.
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:55:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: SKeene8194@aol.com
Subject: Back-up lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have installed the Halogen back up bulbs on my 81 pickup.
But because of the lens in the housing, all the lite seems to go strait out
or up. Verry little hits the ground where its needed.
I have a 3 foot high wall around my yard I am trying to avoid hitting, and
the light goes right over the wall. Still cant see it. Darn!
So I will have to install a flood light instead. Also the Voltmeter takes
a plunge When they are on. So a wiring change and relay are in order.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 01:55:42 -0700
From: "Michael Medart"
Subject: Back-Up Bulbs
To: "Toyota 4x4 (TLCA)"
>I bought mine at Wal-Mart, just remember not to leave the truck in
>reverse a LONG time or the extra wattage from the bulbs will melt
>the tail light lenses.
>
>- jack
I bought and installed 50w halogen b-u bulbs from NWOR about 5
years ago for $9.95/each. They work terrific! I have had no problem
with melting tail light lenses and I always leave them on at night
when camping/4-bying to illuminate the campsite while setting
things up. Up to 2 hours at a time with no meltdowns. Only one
has burnt out in these 5 years.
I you really want a trick set-up and have a Smittybuilt (or similar)
rear double-tube bumper, along with a spare fog light (or two), try
this: With a hacksaw, cut out a length of upper tube that's about
1/2 to 3/4 inch wider than your soon-to-be-mounted fog light (cut
out the center section of either the right or left [or both] side of the
bumper), sand off the burrs, pop on your recently purchased
replacement Smittybuilt tube bumper end caps on the new holes
you just made, either fabricate or buy a new mount for the light,
mount and wire it to the bumper and either a seperate switch or
in-line with your stock back-up lights. Looks really cool when
you're done. Also makes an impression on tail-gaters at night!
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
Michael Medart, Ventura, CA bigblue@anacapa.net
1988 Toyota 4x4 X-Tra Cab V-6, Rancho/Downey
lift, 4.88 gears, Detroit E-Z locker, ARB Air Locker
Rancho RS 9000's w/remote, Con-Fer shackles/
skid plates and roof rack, 33" BFG Muds. RTI: 651
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 1997 08:32:44 -0700
From: kowski@mari.com
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #227
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris Caldwell wrote:
>I have to ask this question again. Has anyone notice any negative
>effects that the plastic light covers have on headlights whether
>they're hella's or stock? I am contemplating upgrading to the hella's
>and also considering the covers to protect my investment.
Have a 95 SR5 Runner and installed the clear covers when new. Best
investment I made as cheap insurance. The left cover now has a rather
large crack where I caught a rock - no damage to the headlight
assembly! Have found no degradation in the lighting pattern (stock
headlights). Bought mine through Performance Products, better price
than dealer and NWOR. I would recommend these to anyone.
Have found that they need to be removed and washed on inside regularly
as road grime and dust will build up over a period. Removal is easy,
just unsnap, clean and snap back on. Hope this helps.
Have found no, repeat, no heat build up and have not had headlight
problems. These have been on for over 45k miles. My daughter has a
95 runner and I bought her some covers for Christmas (95), she has
experienced no problems with bulb life or light patterns. Would agree
that the smoke tint are for show, but the clear are great for
protecting investment.
George Kolakowski
95 4runner SR5 V6
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:06:21 PDT
From: "Boyd,Tom"
Subject: H4 Headlights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Somebody wrote:(sorry, I can't "see" who the sender is)
"Now I'm worried about the wattage I selected. I went with the 100/80 w
halogen H4's.
Has anyone used these? Did they burn up any wiring? Were they entirely
too bright for use on public roads (blinding oncoming)?"
I have the H4 headlights and I didn't use the bulbs that came with them
which are what? 50/60? Anyway, I think I put in the 60/80s and they
are muy bright-o. I also worry about blinding oncoming drivers so I
pointed them down and to the right. You can actually see where the
beam cuts, and I mean cuts, the dark in half. I tried to aim them
down (through approximations) below the face of oncoming drivers.
However, drivers of the lowered Japanese cars still get some in the
face. I aimed the drivers side light inward toward the passenger side
while the passenger side light aims straight ahead. I haven't had any
complaints or tickets yet (knock on wood). However, driving North on
Interstate 5 going toward San Francisco one night with the brights on,
I was flashed by truckers\ to turn down the brights who were on the
South bound which was about 100 yards away on my left . So be careful
'cause they are "Hella" bright.
Regards,
Tom Boyd
San Mateo, CA
'86 4Runner
Tom_Boyd@pa.xerox.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 10:09:48 -0400
From: bruce.elliott@londonlife.com (Elliott, Bruce)
Subject: H4 Headlights
To: toy4x4@tlca.org (toy4x4)
To: Kevin Valentine
I bought the 100/80 watt headlights from Performance Products. I really
liked the brightness, especially the highbeam when out in the country. I
did not have any trouble with oncoming traffic. However, they didn't last
very long. The passenger side light lasted about 3 months and the driver's
side just quit this week after about 1 year of use. I was careful not to
touch the bulb with my fingers during installation. The OEM's, in contrast,
are still working fine after about five years of use.
One thing though, because my '92 4R is Canadian, thus the lights are daytime
running lights which may lead to premature failure.
My questions for the list are 1) Would running a heavier gauge wire, or
separate relay, increase longevity by preventing a voltage drop to the more
100 watt lights? 2) Should I bypass the daytime running light box and just
use the low beam when driving during the day?
Thanks for your help.
-------------------------------------------------------
Bruce Elliott
London Life Insurance Company, London, Ontario, Canada.
Internet:bruce.elliott@londonlife.com
Phone: (519) 432-2000 ext 3552
Fax: (519) 432-4759
-------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:28:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger
Subject: H4 Headlights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> Would running a heavier gauge wire, or
> separate relay, increase longevity by preventing a voltage drop to the more
> 100 watt lights?
No, the higher the voltage at the light the lower the burn time.
I found the 80/100 bulbs burn out fast so now I use 55/100 and its a
little better. I get about 2 years from them (lights off during the day)
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 14:58:17 -0500
From: "John Schultz"
Subject: H4 Headlights
To:
Just a thought, would it not be very cool to mount a rheostat on the dash
and be able to vary the voltage to the headlights. That way you could run
the 80/100's and turn them down for normal useage and crank em' off road.
I know, I am thinking too much. As if I didn't have enough important
things to do....
John
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 21:27:11 EST
From: "james stevenson"
Subject: RE:Lights
>I am going to be installing a whole new lighting system. I do a lot
>of rockcrawling so that is a big consideration. wondering what
>configuration the other night hounds out ther used. I mean, floods
>(euro beam) up front and pencil beams on top?
My suggestion is to first replace the headlamps with Hella Units. This
is the first thing I do with all my trucks and oh yeah put in the
90/145W bulbs. I then put on a pair of Hella Ralye 1000 Wide cornering
Fog lamps on the bull bar. These give you light below the high beams and
have a really wide beam that will wrap around the front of the rig and
show you stuff beside the doors. Next step is to add some Hella
Worklamps (robber bodied one) I usually go for the Dual beam units but
the main thing is to use floodlamps. I place these just behind the
Tcase up on the Centre bearing crossmember. This keeps them out of the
way and lights all the wheels. Last up and this is where I disagree with
a lot of you I put lights up on the roll bar. Most of my trucks have
4-6 Hella Rallye's 2000's in pencil beams. These do not cause light to
reflect back off the hood. The idea is to have a pencil beam so that
this does not happen and to use multiple lamps to get a wide beam of
light. One of my trucks has 4 Predators on the rollbar. IMHO you cant
get a better light, although you pay for it. Last up I put 2 Hella Dual
beam floodlamps on the roll bar pointing back. These are great for
reversing in tight country and for seeing stuff in the bed. As for
wiring them up.
If I'm up front I tend to have all my lights on, with the exception of
the reversing floods. If I have someone in front of me I obviously turn
off the top lamps so they can see. The huge amount of light usually puts
me up front. The more you turn night into day the easier the wheeling
becomes. The trick to place your lamps where you need them as to fill
any black spots. If you are doing your lamps in stages I'd say the most
important is to replace the headlamps, globes and harness. Then fit
reversing floodlamps, wide cornering fogs on the bulbar, underbody
lamps and last the top pencil beams. A mate of mine has also added some
floods on the axle which turn with the steering. I have been meaning to
add these for a few months but just haven't had the time, although it
really simple to add the brackets.
I replaced the Toyota headlamp harness, as its not much chop. The
headlamps are now wired with 4 relays (2 for each headlamp) and a normal
negative earth rather than the positive as standard. I also no longer
use fuses in the wiring but have installed marine thermal circuit
breakers (auto reset). All in all the new headlamp harness adds 20-30%
to the brightness of the headlamps. The trick is to use the thickest
wire you can with the shortest runs from the Alternator. The more cable
the greater the loss in voltage, the same holds true as you get thinner
wire. The Wide corning fog lamps use Three more relays. I trigger the
lamps to turn on with the parking lamps, they then turn off with the low
beam and turn back on with the high beam. The third relay is to enable
this function. I get a bit fanatical about my wiring due to the remote
places I get to, so every lamp has its own relay and circuit breaker.
This makes it easy to diagnose trouble and minimises any failure. The
rock lamps (floods on crossmember) are dual beam types so each has 2
relays and is triggered by the low beam and 4wd circuit. There is not a
lot of point in running high beam when you are looking at your wheels,
so this is why they operate off the low beam position. The lamps off the
rollbar are operated off the second battery under the bed, off which
there are two. Again each lamp has its own relay and circuit breaker.
The top lights are triggered off the high beam circuit. I also have the
hooked to the 4wd circuit so they don't operate on the road. This is a
legal requirement but I have a bypass switch. The floods pointing back
on the rollbar are triggered by the reverse lamps and the 4wd circuits,
again I have a bypass for the 4wd circuit. In all I have 4 switches on
the dashboard, all are disable switches for each bank of lamps. All of
the lamps with the exception of the low beam also pass through a low
voltage cut out. Although I have never had the voltage drop Its nice to
know that I cant flatten the battery. In all I run 3 batteries, but
that's more for other reasons than the lights. I have one for the winch
,HF (2Mhz flying doctor) radio and the Sat phone (Iridium), the second
is to the starter only and the third to every thing else. I get into
some very remote places and I need to know I have 2way radio
communication and starting ability all of the time otherwise you can
wind up dead especially when you only have one vehicle. The battery with
all the lights , sound systems ect also runs my fridge over night which
can put a battery into the position of not starting the car and not
being able to call for help. Somewhere around I have the circuit
diagrams of the lamp and battery wiring and the low voltage cut outs. If
anyone wants them I'll dig them out, drop me a direct e-mail if you want
them.
James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 06:13:17 -0500
From: Ed Ruf
Subject: 32" Tires and HO lights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 07:05 PM 11/14/97 -0600, Anna Gerbrandt wrote:
>Has anyone tried any of those high output halogen sealed beams yet?
>I've got a set on my 83 and they make those halogen bulb type lights
>look pale.
If you mean the HO sealed replacements, I have them on both trucks
and would never replace them with anything else.
- -
Ed Ruf(egruf@visi.net)&(e.g.ruf@larc.nasa.gov for scramjet ??'s)
'86 Xtracab SR5 4x4 PU @ 130K with Rancho 3.5" s.lift+31x10.5+K&N
'87 4Runner SR5 Wagon @ 117K with KYB GasSprings+30x9.50
'86 Yamaha FJ1200SC @ 17K & '83 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
2.8 yr old 100# wGSD, Kaiser Klaus III http://users.visi.net/~egruf
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:02:10 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Halogen Headlights
To: Gregg20@ix.netcom.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
Gregg:
Before ya spend money on "biggie" H4 bulbs - try the 55/60s that
come with the Hella's - they're already paid for :)
One of the other problems in NOT upgrading the wires is that the
voltage at the bulb "drops" below the desireable 14.4v range.
This can dramatically shorten bulb life (a real PITA when you
run PIAA ION bulbs which cost MUCHO Dinero)
I have the Hella (euro type) H4 upgrades - the difference is
amazing. I really dont seem to "need" a long range light
- - even driving at high speeds on back highways. And I run the 55/60
bulbs (as they are easier to find).
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 22:25:01 +0100
From: "Andy Inman"
Subject: Halogen Headlights
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> I know this topic was discussed a week ago so I will make this short. I
> plan on buying a pair of Hella Vision Plus H4 headlights from
> Performance Products. I believe they come with 55/60 bulbs. I was
> thinking of purchasing the 100/150 H4 bulbs from NWOR and putting them
> in to replace the 55/60's. I know that buy putting such a high wattage
> bulb I will have to get a new wiring harness and relays.
I've recently replaced the standard 55/60 bulbs with 80/100 without
upgrading the wiring, with no problems.
I'm not much of an expert on mechanics, but I do know about
electrics - excuse me if you know this stuff but here's some of the
science behind it (hope I don't bore you too much!) There are two
reasons for upgrading wiring, one is to avoid melting the wires, but
the other is to make sure you're actually getting full power out of
the bulbs.
Power (in Watts) is Voltage times Current (Amps). So a 60W bulb at
12V wants to get 5 Amps of current, and it follows that the
electrical resistance (measured in Ohms) of the bulb is 12/5 = 2.4
Ohms (this is from "Ohm's Law", that Voltage = Current x
Resistance). From these two rules you can also get Power = Current
x Current x Resistance.
There will be some loss in the wiring, becuase it has a small
electrical resistance. Let's say the wiring has a resistance of 0.1
Ohms. The total resistance of the wiring plus bulb is then 2.4+0.1
= 2.5 Ohms. So the actual current in the system will be 12/2.5 = 4.8
Amps. This means your 60W bulb is actually getting 4.8 x 4.8 x 2.4 =
55W, and the wiring is getting 4.8 x 4.8 x 0.1 = 2.3W (which heats up
the wires very slightly).
Now, if in the same system you use a 150W bulb this is what happens:
The resistance of the bulb is 0.96 Ohms. The total resistance of the
circuit becomes 0.96 + 0.1 = 1.06 Ohms, and the current is 12/1.06 =
11.3 Amps. The bulb actually gets only 11.3 x 11.3 x 0.96 = 123W and
the wiring gets 11.3 x 11.3 x 0.1 = 12.8W.
So whereas the 60W bulb was operating at 92% of it's rated power, the
150W bulb achieves only 82% of its rated power. Furthermore, by
increasing the bulb rating by a factor of 2.5 you've increased the
power lost in the wiring by a factor of 5.6 (and that's the power
that melts the wires if you take it too far). The situation is worse
if the wiring has a higher resistance, which it may do, particularly
due to oxidisation or poor connections.
In reality, 12.8W of power heating the wiring is not going to make it
very hot, so I wouldn't worry about it, but maybe you don't want only
123W out of your 160W bulbs? Using thicker wires and maybe relays
solves the problem (so long as your connections are good!)
To work the above out in real life you need to know the actual
resitance of your wiring (this depends on the thickness of the wire,
but also how much of it has oxidised, and how good the connections at
the bulb and elsewhere are. Measure the voltage at the battery or
fuse box and the voltage accross the bulb. The difference is the
voltage drop in the wiring and you can work out the resistance of the
wiring from the above. NB: With the engine on (and the alternator
running) you're operating on something like 13.5V rather than 12V, so
it all changes slightly.
Hope this helps :)
- -AndyI-
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:29:53 -0800
From: "Don M. West"
Subject: Hella Halogens
To: Toyota 4x4 mailing list
as written and replied in part:
>If for
>> some reason the 100/150's are not a good choice would you recommend the
>> 80/100 or the 90/130. Thanks in advance
>> ____________________
>
>I TRUELY believe you won't get away with any of the bulbs you're
>interested in. You'll be pulled over ALL the time.
Take Scott's advice on that one...the 100+ low beams will likely get you
red lights in your rear view mirror *:) I put a set in my truck a few
months ago; and to save $$$ right off I stuck with the standard H4's that
come with them (what...the 55/80 or something like that). Anyway, I get
high beamed from time to time on low, and also point out that these are
already on low beam! They do seem to put out more light than stock sealed
beams, that's for sure. I aimed them according to the Haynes specs (I used
a wall in my work's parking garage and measured off all the distances - the
right bulb had be far off aim as it was; I think the ex-owner had changed a
bulb or done some work and screwed up the aim). Well, the aim is set
according to those specs, but keeping in mind the truck sits a lot higher
than a car (and I'm at stock height with 31" BFGs) the lights seem to
travel a lot farther anyway. Scott has recommended to use a dark, straight
road at night to check if the aim meets your needs. With the brighter bulbs
you may want to lower their aim just a bit.
PS...don't ever piss off Scott if he's behind you...when he kicks in ALL
his lights it looks like a 747 landing with a freight train tied to its
roof!!!! *:P
Don
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 12:11:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Ken Chen
Subject: headlights...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
well, ok headlight stuff again here i go. currently in my
location (Seattle) we don't have the new PIAA lights for headlights.
suppose to be like HID or something. i went to Vancover BC and they have
a lot of interesting equiptment. just because the fact that there are a
lot of Hong Kong ppl moving there. while i was in town i bought a pair of
Blue lights (like what Nyguen was talking about.) right now i am running
PIAA Ion-Crystals and as i said before i got pulled over. however there
is no law in that says you can't have yellow lights. also, Off-Road
vehicles have a special rule that they can have dis-colored lights. but
you should take them out in city. i also heard there is a law that you
cannot have any police colors. meaning blue/red etc. and those lights i
got are blue. they only cost $20. PIAA ion-crys can cost $55. oh, and
you need an H-4 housing. (like Hella or something or Ceibe)
about fog-lights. there is a PIAA 1000x which is a special
edition which produces a HID-like color of white-blue. i saw them, and
they look somewhat like the mercedes etc. actually they almost look like
the Volkswagon fog's. they are cheap, like $189 or so. compair to the
real HID fogs $1000 or so. oh and the ion-crys really help in the snow
cuz i go boarding a lot. it is just like putting on yellow/orange goggles
on the mountains. you can see the contrast of everything. however in
city it appears no different. any "?" just email me.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:56:56 -0700
From: "Tong, Donald L"
Subject: RE: Badder Brighter Backup Bulbs
>> I've seen a lot of posts asking about brighter back-up lights. Here's a
web site where you can get 50 watt halogen replacements for 1156 and 3156
types or 1157 dual filament types . They run about $26 a pair.
http://www.designtech-intl.com/Product/automotive_section.htm. I ordered
some of the 1156's for my Taco and will post a report when installed.
> I've had a run of bad luck with these bulbs in the past. First set broke
between the bulb and the base. Then had a second set burn out my reverse
switch (non-Toyota) due to the extra current they draw.
I've had a set of these bulbs in my '91 since just after I bought it (9/91).
I got mine from NWOR, so I don't know if they're the same brand or not. In
any case, I've had zero problems with them.
I mentioned this site in a previous message. The direct order price is way
too high. The same bulbs from the same manufacturer are available at my
local Pep Boys for $7.00 each.
Don Tong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:37:19 -0500
From: Agustinus Gunawan
Subject: RE: Headlight replacements
There is one more option for H4 application (not 9004 model yet). IPF Magic
J bulb. These bulbs discharge a white light. Although are not as powerful
as HID light they are very close to it. Producing lights the same as
110/130 W lights but only drawing 55/65 W of power. The other advantage is
it will stay glowing for around 10 minutes to light up the drive way
without drawing any power.
This cost $59 a pair from Summit off-road.
http://www.summitoffroad.com/ipf.html
I believe he got it from ARB as they are IPF distributors in US.
The last time I contact him he got it in stock.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Scott Wilson [SMTP:swilson@off-road.com]
Ken Flesher wrote:
>
> I blew a headlight the other day, and had to put in my only spare (hey,
we
> all carry one, right?), so now I need to pick up another spare. I've been
> wondering about these higher wattage H5/9004 units I see in the PP
> catalog. Does anybody here run these in the 55/80 W model? Is it true that
> you can safely do this without hurting the stock wiring?
I've been using 55/100W bulbs with the stock wiring for 2 years now. No
problems. I also met someone using something like a 80/120W, he said
he'd been using them for 2 years w/o problems.
> And what's the deal with these blue tinted headlights I keep seeing?
> Could they be any more annoying?
There are two different types out right now...tinted bulbs, and HID
(High Intensity Discharge). The HID lights, while being somewhat
annoying with their BRIGHT WHITE light, are INCREDIBLE lights. They use
draw VERY little current once they are lit. I wish they were more
affordable...I'd love to have a pair.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:27:29 -0800
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: Headlight replacements
Joey Consos wrote:
>
> < problems. I also met someone using something like a 80/120W, he said
> he'd been using them for 2 years w/o problems.>>
>
> I run Hella 80/100 on my truck and they have been on there as long as I
> have owned it (1 and a half years) and how ever long they were on before.
> I have not had any problems with them at all. Except for when one burnt
> out I had a hard time finding a place that sold replacements.
And I run the 90/120 on mine without any problems :-) BTW, 4WPW stocks
most of the different wattage bulbs, including the "Crystal Blue"
elements and sells them for very good prices.
I ran the 80/90 (?) blue bulbs for a while and found that even though
they reduce glare reflected from the highway, they don't throw as much
light ahead of the vehicle as I like.
Jim Brink
------------------------------
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