Sparkplugs
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 10:32:14 -0600
From: Jack Alford
Subject: 4miles/gallon gain
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:
>I'm impressed! I heard good things about Jacobs plug wires and Bosch
>Platinum plugs but I was really surprised at my results. I've gone
>through a few tanks of gas since the I changed the wires and plugs, I'm
>consistently getting 3-4 more miles to the gallon. I had been using NGK
>plugs and Toyota plug wires.
I used to run Bosch Platinums in all my vehicles but their increase in
mileage doesn't last.
If I had to guess I'd say it is mainly due to the better spark plug
wires and the fact that you changed the plugs, not that the platinums
are THAT much better. I drive a long way to work every day so I'm
always tinkering with diff. stuff trying to get better mileage and those
plugs themselves didn't really make a difference, I switched back to
NGK's, they work better over a greater period of time than the
Platinum's. The Platinum's are supposed to last a long time but that
longevity comes at a price which is less conductivity due to the use
of the Platinum itself. Or at least that's what I've read in several
diff. places lately.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 22:56:12 -0600 (CST)
From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
Subject: 4miles/gallon gain
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I switched back to NGK's, they work better over a greater period of time
than the Platinum's.
Where do you find the NGKs? This may sound silly, but I'm rumnning Densos
because NONE of my local parts stores carry NGK plugs for the 22re.
Thanks,
Greg
Greg S. Francis
University of Texas @ Austin
School of Architecture
gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 22:25:02 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: 4miles/gallon gain
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
> Where do you find the NGKs? This may sound silly, but I'm rumnning Densos
> because NONE of my local parts stores carry NGK plugs for the 22re.
I used to buy mine at the local Toy dealer.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1997 23:14:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht
Subject: 4miles/gallon gain
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Tue, 18 Feb 1997, Greg S. Francis wrote:
> I switched back to NGK's, they work better over a greater period of time
> than the Platinum's.
>
> Where do you find the NGKs? This may sound silly, but I'm rumnning Densos
> because NONE of my local parts stores carry NGK plugs for the 22re.
I got mine at western auto. by 'Densos' do you mean Nikkodenso (sp)? I
thought those were better than the NGK's (since they're what actually come
on the truck). Anyone know for sure?
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 11:43:21 -0500
From: Todd Hornsby
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 11:49 PM 5/8/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Just picked this tidbit up from the DIY_EFI website. The FTC stomped on
>Splitfire for false and unsubstantiated claims. Check out
Yeah! I heard about this a while back.
>www.ftc.gov/opa/9702/splitfir.htm. They (the FTC) have a search engine that
>produced some interesting results for "Slick 50" and "STP" also in case
>you've been wondering what happened to their high pressure ads. I always
What are those things $5-6 a pop! I wasn't aware they had a application for
Toys. I've always held that you could make your own by using a super small
hacksaw and cutting a fork into any brand X electrode.
I noticed a lot of parts stores pushed their plugs too. I can only guess
that many retailers also made a hefty markup to be so avid in suggesting
these over conventional brands.
>wondered about all those "scientific" ads that had no numbers at all, just
>testimonials from morons that probably would have gotten the same results
>from any new plug.
A lot of aftermarket hipo bolt on equipment falls into this category. They
often make claims that are actually so numerically subtle as to fall into
the statistical background noise in dyno testing. The other thing I always
found so amazing about splitfires was the cost. They run about 6 times
higher than regular plugs - I know we're only talking dollars here but many
other products of this ilk might run twice as high or so but SIX TIMES over
millions of plugs is a lot of money! The production costs for their plug is
not even close to six times that of any other plug. In fact I conjecture
it's darn close to identical.
________________________________________________________________________
- -Todd Hornsby (San Antonio, TX) http://www.texas.net/~toddh
- -toddh@texas.net alt: thornsby@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 14:35:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: SKeene8194@aol.com
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I would just like to say one thing about the Split fire plug thread running
here.
As an electronics technician 18years experince. Basic Electrical flow dictates
that electicity will follow the easiest path between two points. So with a
plug with two ground points for the spark to jump to, The spark will always
jump to the easier to reach point. But never both at the same time..........
So the plug would act as an ordinary one electrode plug.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-09 14:38:55 EDT, you write:
> The spark will always jump to the easier to reach
> point. But never both at the same time..........
> So the plug would act as an ordinary one electrode plug.
>
The Idea is not to spark both, but to allow better exposure of the spark to
the chamber.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:11:19 -0400
From: Ed Ruf
Subject: Splitfire Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 10:06 PM 5/9/97 -0400, DRM033@aol.com wrote:
> The Idea is not to spark both, but to allow better exposure of the spark to
>the chamber.
How is this supposed to happen with the split upper electrode? The spark
has to occur between the upper and lower electrodes. Just where is it
moving to that exposes the air/fuel mixture to a better ignition source. If
anything by creating the edges in the upper electrode you've maybe moved
the spark 1/16" inward to the center of the plug. I've done four years of
research in 20+kHz gas blown spark gaps (AKA in some applications as spark
plugs) and four plus years in pulsed gas discharge lasers. I have yet to
see any physics behind the arguments of splitfire proponents. I realize I'm
just a DSE, maybe someone can help me out here?
Also, just to point it out, for a given ignition system, you've actually
reduced the breakdown voltage of the spark, so you actually have less
ignition energy being deposited into the air/fuel charge. This is precisely
why the Jacobs system specs a larger plug gap, to increase the breakdown
voltage and hence increase the energy deposited.
Ed Ruf (egruf@visi.net) or for Scramjet related ??? (e.g.ruf@larc.nasa.gov)
1986 Toy 4x4 SR5 PU@122K, 3.5" Rcho susp.+RS-7ks,31x10.5 BFG-A/T,K&N
1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 17:46:55 -0700
From: Randy Ring
Subject: Spark Plugs
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
The discussion of Split Fire plugs has evoked a lot of "technical"
comments and some confusion.
Here are the facts:
The concept of Split Fire, or any number of similar "multi-point"
designs, is to do basically one thing - make it easier to "spark".
Making the physical surface (the points of the two electrodes) smaller
will LOWER the amount of energy (voltage) required to "jump the gap"
between the two points. This is good because if your ignition system is
not optimal (putting out the right voltage) the "split fire" spark plugs
will still fire an adequate spark.
By making the two points smaller, however, also causes a "trade-off".
The smaller points of the two electrodes concentrates "spark energy" on
a smaller metal surface (two tiny points) and it gets (that's right!)
hotter! And heat wants to do what? That's right! Melt the metal. So,
they put platinum on the electrodes. The problem with platinum is the
when is gets hot, it gets brittle. So you can't "bend" the electrode
(or change the gap).
Another intrinsic characteristic of "multi-point plugs" is that as the
gap between two points gets bigger over time, due to melting away of the
electrode surface or points, the spark will find a new path with less
voltage required, and a shorter distance to jump the gap because it has
"multiple choice". There is "longer life" built into the design of the
Split Fire or "multi-point" plugs (thus, auto makers who brag about
100,000+ miles between tune-ups). The marketing hype for longer life is
OK, however, other factors come into play regarding the degradation of
the ignition system. Has any one (Jim Brink?) pulled a set of platinum
plugs after being in an engine continuously for say...80,000 miles?
What did they look like? =20
One of the "problems" with multi-point designs and platinum plugs is the
very thing that makes the spark jump the gap (i.e lower voltage), also
causes its break-down. Under a dyno testing in high performance
engines, these plugs tend to "break down" sooner (remember.. less
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 00:07:07 -0500
From: Todd Hornsby
Subject: Spark Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 05:46 PM 5/12/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Here are the facts:
>
>The concept of Split Fire, or any number of similar "multi-point"
>when is gets hot, it gets brittle. So you can't "bend" the electrode
>Another intrinsic characteristic of "multi-point plugs" is that as the
>gap between two points gets bigger over time, due to melting away of the
>Split Fire or "multi-point" plugs (thus, auto makers who brag about
>One of the "problems" with multi-point designs and platinum plugs is the
Interesting post! While I don't dispute what your saying with respect to
splitfires I would like to clear one thing up (or further muddy the
waters?). You refer to other "muli-prong" or "multi-point" designs and
gapping them. With respect to these others I have to say that imho what
your saying does not entirely apply.
Aircraft plugs that I've been around use 4 prongs or circular (prongless).
Rotary engines and a growing number of piston engines have multi-prong
designs that are highly similiar. Many multi-prong designs exist for racing
applications. ALL the designs to which I am referring have what I call a
'flush' design feature which is radically different from the splitfire.
That is they all approach the center from the sides and not 'over the top'
like traditional plugs (including the revolutionary splitfire). If you
think about it a true multi electrode plug can ONLY approach the center
electrode from the side. If they had more than one electrode bending up
from the threaded portion at the base of the plug towards the center and
tried to approach from the top they would all collide. This side approach
allows you to fit as many electrodes as you can in a circle around the
center electrode. It also has (arguably) the added benefit of allowing the
gap to face directly into the cumbustion chamber and not be shielded by the
prong as with conventional designs. If you look at a plug from the
persective of a piston (literally) all you see with a conventional over the
top design is a prong covering the center electrode. With true
multi-electrode designs you see each gap for each prong as plain as day.
These plugs are usually purchased as is and not considered gappable but you
can cheat and gap them a little bit sometimes. But the reason they are not
gapable is that there is a curve cut into the side prongs that matches the
curve of the center electrode. In the case of some plugs the material is
far far too thick to consider gapping and racing plugs have a side prong
that in actuallity is a complete ring (as in an infinite number of side
elctrodes?) around the center and obviously not gapable. To the best of my
knowledge the majority of these types of plugs are not platinum covered or
whatever - probably just cadmium or something. Increased gap with many of
these designs is usually a non-issue as the electrodes are so 'beefy' -
atleast that's been my experience.
The only examples that come to mind are plugs like the NGK BR8EQ14 or the
NipponDenso W25EDR14 (Nope don't fit Toyotas!). They retail for about $4.00
and are far far supperior plugs to $6 splitfires. I would invite you to
inspect one of these 2 plugs next time you're at a parts store. Most major
shops carry those plugs and the NDs are particularly easy to find.
The multi electrode plugs that I have seen or used typically have
electrodes that are on average about 25%-33% thicker (just eyeballing) than
convenional plugs and not 'thinner' like you indicate with respect to
splitfires. Splitfires of course taper the further up the V you go towards
the final tip.
In my way of thinking a splitfire is not a true multi-electrode plug but
rather a single electrode plug with a V at the end. To that end I also
believe it is just as likely for the spark to arc across to the prong at
say the base of the 'V' where the prong is just as thick as any other
conventional plug. That 'V' in the single electrode of the splitfire is
awfully small and doesn't go deep enough to guarantee the spark will always
jump gap to one side or the other and not simply the base below the V. All
IMHO of course.
Saludos,
Todd
________________________________________________________________________
- -Todd Hornsby (San Antonio, TX) http://www.texas.net/~toddh
- -toddh@texas.net alt: thornsby@alumni.cs.colorado.edu
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 16:02:08 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Which Sparkplug Wires For My '90 V6 With 80K?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris Pollard wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I am thinking it is about time to replace the stock sparkplug wires on
> my '90 V6 4x4. The local auto shops offers either NGK or Bosch custom
> wires for about $35. I have seen Jacobs advertised for about $75. I will
> also replace my plugs, cap and rotor with Bosch parts. My truck is
> basically stock with a K&N Filtercharger and a Dynomax cat-back exhaust.
>
> Any reason to spend the extra dollars and time (mail-order) on the
> Jacobs?
Yeah, I think so. The thing about wires is, you want the most
'efficient' wires you can get. The better the insulation, and the
bigger the wire, the lower the resistance, and the less power you'll
loose to heat, before it reaches the plug. Jacobs wires are 8.5mm, and
are insulated better than any other wire I've need with my own eyes.
I've had wonderful results using them in my 88 V6. I installed them
with some Bosch Platinum plugs at the same time. I was replacing my
stock wires and NGK plugs. The result was fabulous. I gained 3mpg
(above average from what I hear), the engine responded to the pedal much
quicker, and overall ran MUCH smoother and quieter (especially on the
freeway). Of course I can't tell how much improvement I owe to the
wires, and how much the plugs, but the two together worked great for me.
About the cap & rotor...I've always used factory parts when it comes to
stuff like that, just cause I think it'll fit better. (and possibly be
made better). Anyone thing think differently?
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 08:50:09 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Which Sparkplug Wires For My '90 V6 With 80K?
To: " - (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"
While I own a Jacobs Ultra team....
Well - I gone through a few boxes, but the latest has lasted a long time.
The wires I break constantly, but they are pretty goob about replacing them.
Keep the OEM set in the truck as a spare set.
If I had to do it over, Id consider MSD.
GrassRoots Motorsports did a "real" test of several of these systems
a year ago. While they all had different results (and each pass
at the drag stip was different too - so much for those ad claims
of 8% - hell thats statistical noise) they all were superior to stock.
By the one you think is "coolest" I guess.
I was wondering if anyone has used the Champion Truck Wires. Summit Racing
had them at a bearable price (similar to discount stores prices for *silicone*
wires).
Accel was making a cap and rotor with copper electrodes rather than the
*alloy* on the OEM part. I cant source that part easily so I just go OEM. Last
I recall, it was about the same price as OEM. It seemed to resist "erosion"
better
than the OEM part, but maybe thats just my imagination.
EWong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 06:37:55 -0700
From: "Mackiewicz, John J"
Subject: MSD Super Conductor Wires / Idea
To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"
All,
I just installed a set of MSD Super Conductors on my '83 22R and
noticed a definite improvement over the stock & Autolite wires. Idles a
bit smoother, revs a bit easier, and seems to have a little more grunt
in 5th gear. The only thing I changed was the wires for a good test. I
did a quick check with the ohm meter, the MSD wires are less resistive
than the stock or Autolite wires. I have not noticed any radio noise
although I don't have a great system. I bought these wires from Summit
Racing, a universal 4cyl set for $64.
*Idea* - I have seen the V8 universal sets in catalogs for about $71.
Two 22R owners could go in together on a set and split the cost. Based
on everything I got in my 4cyl set it should work. I used my longest
wire (you have to crimp the distributor end yourself) for the number one
cylinder and ended up with more than enough excess to make another coil
wire (the only thing you would miss buying a V8 set). In the universal
set you get a special crimping tool to use in your vise along with
detailed instructions. It is definitely a 1 banana job. I built a
custom loom for mine, if any one is interested I could tell you how to
split the cost on that too.
E-mail me direct if you need anymore info, I am not on the list. Work
web access ya know.
john.j.mackiewicz@boeing.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 1997 19:08:02 -0400
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles"
Subject: Messed up tach
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:
>
> Curley,Jacques wrote:
> >
> > I recently did
> > some routine maintenance, but I had a brain fart. I changed the plugs
> > when, you guessed it, the engine was hot. Well, I got lucky and
> > didn't have to put a helicoil in.
>
> I didn't know changing the plugs was bad when the engine was hot.
> Could somebody explain this to me?
>
> Scott
> --
Scott,
Changing plugs on a hot engine is very bad with these new-fangled
aluminum heads. I believe it is due to two things:
1) different thermal coefficients (sp?) of the differing metals in the
plugs and the heads which serves to really wedge the plug in there
2) bi-metallic corrosion- dissimilar metals will tend to create an
electrolosis effect which will given time 'weld' them together
These things together will twist the threads right out of the head if
you try to remove them while the engine is hot. I use permatex
anti-seize compound whenever I change my plugs and have no problems at
all. I can, at need, get them out when the engine is hot, but I only do
this if I REALLY need to. YMMV. Later...
- --
Butch Stiles
rokitman@erols.com
Just as it says, "Rocket Man"
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 11:59:32 PDT
From: "Curley,Jacques"
Subject: Messed up tach (still)
To: Toyota 4x4 List Post
Sorry I didn't explain the hot aluminum head thing (like I knew before
I had this problem). Aluminum expands more when it's hot, so once
(if) the plugs are out, the metal is too expanded and the new plug
doesn't go in, or if it goes in, it does bad things, like cross
threading or lots of metal shavings in the head...trust me.
Anyways, no one mentioned any possible fixes or causes for my tach
problem (see below). Any takers?
Thanks,
Jacques
- ----------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 19:34:59 -0400
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles"
Subject: Messed up tach
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Galen Sinkey wrote:
>
> At 07:08 PM 5/19/97 -0400, Butch wrote:
> > I use permatex
> >anti-seize compound whenever I change my plugs and have no problems at
> >all. I can, at need, get them out when the engine is hot, but I only do
> >this if I REALLY need to. YMMV.
>
> Butch,
>
> Pardon my ignorance, but do you put this on the threads of the new plug
> when you install them, or what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -- Galen Sinkey
Galen,
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask!
I use anti-sieze on the threads of the new plugs and it really helps.
I also use it everywhere else on the truck, whenever I take something
apart. There are some places it shouldn't be used (i.e. places where
thread locker is indicated) but generally, I use it on everything.
When you return to that part for maintenance in 2 years, you'll thank
yourself over and over. Later...
- --
Butch Stiles
rokitman@erols.com
Just as it says, "Rocket Man"
------------------------------
this is from the toyota mods list:
From: ^AStephen Gunter
Subject: ^ARe: spark plugs
This should get lots of response! Seriously Dominic, those plugs have long
been exposed as a gimmick, the power of advertising. In fact I think they
can no longer claim to do the things they did when they first came out. At
the SEMA show in Las Vegas last November I had a chance to see just about
every plug in action and the Splitfire plug was one of the worst. Bandwidth
users bail out now, I'm going to give a short Q&A on spark plugs.
Ok, if you're still here lets go;
Question: Are Split Electrode plugs better than normal plugs?
Answer: The ionization point of a split electrode plug is lower,thus a
weaker spark is required to jump the gap. Since spark voltage is lower,
they are not desired for high-performance applications.
Question: What about fine wire electrodes?
Answer: Electrical energy travels on the outside of a conductor and not
through the middle, thus a 'normal' spark plug with a thick center
electrode offers a larger surface area, thereby allowing a higher voltage,
resulting in a bigger spark.
Question: Arn't Platinum plugs better?
Answer: If your goal is not to change plugs for 50,000 miles, yes. If your
goal is performance definately No.
Platinum is not a good conductor, it is used for longevity.
The best conductors currently used for spark plugs are :
1. Silver
2. Copper
3. Gold
4. Platinum
5. Nickel
6. Steel
Question: What about resistor plugs?
Answer: These do exactly what they say: resist. They cut down on the spark
energy reaching the electrode, thus cutting the spark. Use these only if
your ignition is interfering with your ECU.
Question: Will a 'hotter' spark plug make a hotter spark?
Answer: No, this only refers to the plugs ability to dissipate heat. A
spark plug that is too hot can overheat and melt the center electrode.
Also: New plugs with sharp edges make better spark. Change plugs often,
they are easily overlooked. Some racers change plugs before each race.
I guess I save the Q&A on ignition systems for a related question. Hope
this helps you Dominic
- --------end of quoted message------------------
remember, this stuff is just the author's opinions. splitfire's paid
liars... er, i mean marketing department can claim as much stuff as they
want...
- -----------------------
Leo G. Divinagracia III
ldivinag@csuhayward.edu
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 10:03:11 -0700
From: Locke Christman
Subject: Spark Plugs
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
What is everyone's opinion of Bosch Platinum plugs?
I just put a set in and they seemed to make quite a bit of difference in
my 20R, but then the old plugs (also Bosch but not Platinum) were pretty
worn down. I also replaced cap, rotor, and wires. It runs smoother,
more power, and no more pinging.
Locke Christman
FEI Company
Hillsboro, OR
USA
lac@feico.com
'80 SB, 30x9.50's, 4.375's, 298kmiles, TLCA #5959
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 10:16:58 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Spark Plugs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Locke Christman wrote:
>
> What is everyone's opinion of Bosch Platinum plugs?
>
> I just put a set in and they seemed to make quite a bit of difference in
> my 20R, but then the old plugs (also Bosch but not Platinum) were pretty
> worn down. I also replaced cap, rotor, and wires. It runs smoother,
> more power, and no more pinging.
I'm using them in my V6. I really like them, and will continue to use
them. I was getting REALLY good gas milage for the first month, but
then it dropped back to normal. Think someone posted and told me they
would do that at the time I got them...whoever it was...you were right.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http:// Temporarily down...Stay tuned...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 12:54:26 +0200
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Spark Plugs
To:
>What is everyone's opinion of Bosch Platinum plugs?
If you want some plugs that will last 60,000 miles, you picked
the right ones. If you wanted plugs that give better mpg and
performance then you didn't get the right ones IMHO.
Platinum lasts a long time and the plugs won't wear down like normal
plugs but that longevity comes at the cost of Platinum having
a higher resistance than a "normal plug", like say an NGK.
I found that NGK's gave me the best MPG and performance.
- jack
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 15:10:14 -0400
From: David Stracher
Subject: Bosch Platinum Spark Gap ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Does anyone know what the gap should be on a set of Bosch platinum plugs
for a '93 4runner v6 ? (I forgot to ask at the store)
Thanks,
Dave Stracher
djstracher@bbn.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 15:22:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: ScottsAS1@aol.com
Subject: Bosch Platinum Spark Gap ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-10-08 15:20:54 EDT, you write:
<< Does anyone know what the gap should be on a set of Bosch platinum plugs
for a '93 4runner v6 ? (I forgot to ask at the store)
Thanks,
Dave Stracher >>
.032"
Matt Dewalt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 12:56:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger
Subject: Bosch Platinum Spark Gap ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I use .032
Chris Geiger 93 4runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
On Wed, 8 Oct 1997, David Stracher wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know what the gap should be on a set of Bosch platinum plugs
> for a '93 4runner v6 ? (I forgot to ask at the store)
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Stracher
> djstracher@bbn.com
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 16:13:14 -0400
From: Ed Ruf
Subject: Bosch Platinum Spark Gap ??(Warning!! Possible new t-stat
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 03:22 PM 10/8/97 -0400, ScottsAS1@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 97-10-08 15:20:54 EDT, you write:
>
><< Does anyone know what the gap should be on a set of Bosch
platinum plugs
> for a '93 4runner v6 ? (I forgot to ask at the store)
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Stracher >>
>
>.032"
Ok, both Dave and Chris have said the same gap. Now, I'm confused.
Since I'm not familiar with the V6, what's the gap for the standard
ND/NGK plug?
Why do I ask, because the platinum plug uses smaller electrodes,
hence they should require a larger gap to fire at the same voltage.
I'm only familiar with the 22R-E, so I'm asking before putting my
foot in my mouth. This isn't larger than what I gap (ok, 0.031") my
ND plugs.
BE FOREWARNED! This and the recent Spitfire thread have me ready to
start another (well actually worse, I have journal refs for this
one!) DSE thread. :-)
Ed
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 08:30:51 -0400
From: Ed Ruf
Subject: Spark Gap ??(Warning!! Possible new t-stat thread)
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 05:15 AM 10/9/97 -0400, Rob Boyle illustriously expounded:
>> Since I'm not familiar with the V6, what's the gap for the standard
>> ND/NGK plug?
>>
>> Why do I ask, because the platinum plug uses smaller electrodes,
>> hence they should require a larger gap to fire at the same voltage.
>> I'm only familiar with the 22R-E, so I'm asking before putting my
>> foot in my mouth. This isn't larger than what I gap (ok, 0.031") my
>> ND plugs.
>Ed, So are you saying that Platinum plugs should be run a little
>wider than what the manual says. I'm running platinums, but gapped them by
>the book. If you say go wider I'll give it a try.
Typically, yes. Because the platinum inner electrode is smaller in dia.,
for the plug to fire at the same voltage as the regular plug the gap needs
to be wider.
In the gaseous breakdown regime in which spark plugs operate the voltage
required fire the plug is a linear function of the pressure-distance
product. Since the pressure is the same here, its a linear function of the
gap. So, a 10% increase in gap get you a 10% rise in the breakdown voltage
of the plug. Assuming (..oh...oh) the rest of the ignition system can
deliver the voltage required.
One can do this with regular plugs also, if you care to experiment. The
downside is that eventually with wear the gap gets too big for the ignition
system to supply the required breakdown voltage. So, for your maintenance
interval gets shortened.
An additional point to this is if you think you have a spark problem and
you check for spark out in the air, all you've proved is that the system
can make the required voltage to breakdown air at atmospheric pressure, but
not that required in the combustion chamber. This isn't to say it isn't a
useful check, just that it's not everything.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:52:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: MStev34116@aol.com
Subject: Spark plug debate
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Just to add a little more to the spark plug suggestions my neighbor is a old
race car builder/driver now his son is doing same well, they have taken a
900+ HP motor and put it on the dyno and have tried several different plugs
and splitfire was one of them, the bad news is that for being the most
expensive they gave little or no HP gains and they had the shortest life of
any of them. He has told me if you want to spend the time the best and
cheapest way to get HP and better MPG is to use spark plug indexing washers.
You can get them from Performance Products catalog and don't really cost to
much. The principle behind them is to "aim" the spark plug open area towards
where the gas/air mixture is coming down the intake runner. Sounds pretty
simple but the hardest part is marking the plugs on the outside and them
having them be tight at the right spot. Hope this proves useful.
Matt Stevens
90 4runner SR5 Brushguard, 31-12.5 BFG's all terains on Boyd Gotcha's,
fender flares, RS 9000's Lift kit is next any suggestions? I'd like about
3-4 inchs and a stock soft ride
------------------------------
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