Cam Info
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Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 09:23:46 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Wed, 7 Jan 1998, DRM033 wrote:
>I just got the TRD catalog, and was checking out the low to mid-range cam
>offer. all that duration & lift stuff is Greek to me, but they say it
>offers a smooth idle and works with the factory EFI. RPM range: idle to
>4800. Is this just the factory cam? (had to ask...) price is only $129.
>
>How does this compare to other cams? I figured a Toyota part would be the
>best, and the price is not bad. How hard is it to install a cam?
What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams in my
20R/22R combo, and can say for sure it runs out of steam at 5000 rpm - when
they say it's good to 5K they mean it... That combo sure could have used more
cam.
For comparison :
For 1975 and up 20R's and non EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 272 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 248 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.1 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm
For EFI 22R's:
Intake Duration- 248 degrees
Exhaust Duration- 280 degrees
Intake Lift- 10.0 mm
Exhaust Lift- 9.7 mm
I don't have lobe centers on these, but that should give you a basis for
comparison. Let us know what the specs are, since I am in the market for a
cam soon.
- - Brian
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:19:58 EST
From: DRM033
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>
> What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams in
> my
> 20R/22R combo, and can say for sure it runs out of steam at 5000 rpm - when
> they say it's good to 5K they mean it... That combo sure could have used
> more
> cam.
here it is. wanna explain later if it is worth it?
20R/22RE - idle to 4800, low to mid-range (the one I wanted)
intake 10.5 mm
exhaust 10.9 mm
duration int. 262 degrees
duration exh. 272 degrees
duration at .050" lift - int:214, exh:224
20R/22RE - 1600 - 5200 , mid-range, notes about EFI rough idle, needs
header/perf. exhaust
intake 10.9 mm
exhaust 11.3 mm
duration int. 272 degrees
duration exh. 282 degrees
one more, from 2000 - 5700, let me know if you want it too. needs lots of
engine work for it.
oh yeah, only the first says smog legal, the rest say off road, and the first
says 10% HP increase
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
David Moore DRM033@aol.com
90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
TLCA #5662
Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 12:24:14 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, DRM033 wrote:
>>
>> What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams
>here it is. wanna explain later if it is worth it?
<>
Cam Grind Int Dur Exh Dur Int Lift Exh lift
Stock 22R 272 248 10.1 9.7
stock 22RE 248 280 10.0 9.7
TRD 0-4800 262 272 10.5 10.9
TRD 1600-5200 272 282 10.9 11.3
Ok, generally speaking increasing duration moves the power UP the RPM range
(as evidenced by the rpm rating's.), but it also sacrifices idle, since the
mixture in the intake will be moving slower, and have less scavanging at low
RPM's... Higher lift allows for more air flow, but you really don't know a
cam until you look at lobe center, overlap, and the actual profile (how fast
it gets into the higher lifts) Interesting thing that they increased the
intake duration & lift considerably while decreasing the exhaust duration,
but increasing the lift - my guess is that they're trying to shift some of
the power down to teh rpm range where most of us drive on the street to give
good 'seat of the pants' feel
Check out the Comp Cam's Valve timing pages at:
http://www.compcams.com/valvtim1.html (go to next pages)
this probably will explain a lot that I won't duplicate here.
for a more detailed explanation
>one more, from 2000 - 5700, let me know if you want it too. needs lots of
>engine work for it.
Let me know the specs on this one - and if anyone has a NWOR and Downey
Catalog available, Send me those specs and we can compare ! Fun !
- - Brian
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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 12:38:59 -0600
From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
Subject: TRD cam for 22RE
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, DRM033 wrote:
>> What are the specs of the cam? I had one of their old 22R (not e) cams
>here it is. wanna explain later if it is worth it?
<>
<< Northwest Cams Inch lift to MM lift converted using -
http://cyberstation.net/~jweesner/conv.html >>>
Cam Grind Int Dur Exh Dur Int Lift Exh lift
Stock 22R 272 248 10.1 9.7
NWOR 0-4500 250 260 10.5 10.5
NWOR 2-6000 260 270 11.2 10.5
NWOR 35-7500 270 280 11.5 11.5
stock 22RE 248 280 10.0 9.7
TRD 0-4800 262 272 10.5 10.9
TRD 1600-5200 272 282 10.9 11.3
NWOR 0-4500 250 260 10.8 11.1
NWOR 25-6500 278 278 11.4 11.4
NWOR Turbo 0-48k 250 260 10.9 11.2
There's the Cams in a quick look....
I'd have to say the TRD 0-4800 ones 'look' better on paper, and will probably
idle better than the NWOR cams. They should give a nice increase in low-end
(around 2000-3000 rpm). For 'hotter' cams 278 on the intake is a bit long,
the TRD one should have a 'fair' idle and pull real good once the engine gets
up to revs - this would probably do well on a properly geared truck on the
highway - the smaller cam would be good for those needing to compensate for
bigger tires & wrong gears.
My $.02 worth,
- - Brian
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Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 03:21:10 -0800
From: "Devin Noel"
Subject: RE: DOA porting and polishing
> I was looking at DOA's new site
> http://www.DOAracingengines.com/cylheads.html
> and they advertise porting and polishing 3vz-e heads will result
> in a 33 HP gain! The price is $375. I can't think of any
> disadvantages to having this done, can you?
>
> My headgaskets still haven't been done, I was thinking about
> having Toyota send the heads off to DOA for porting before they
> reinstall them. I wouldn't have to do any work! Has anyone had
> any experiences with porting heads?
Porting and polishing can and does improve performance, but I think the 33
HP figure is BS, maybe 3-5 HP at the most. Just a guess though. It has no
drawbacks that I know of, and can easily be done by my most people.
Just get a gasket, and install it on the manifold studs, and head studs
(may need to stuff some bolts in the holes to use as pegs) and trace the
inner edge of the gasket with a dental pick (get old worn out ones from your
dentist, make great shop tools). Get a Dremel, or die grinder and an
appropriate burr. Grind away until they perfectly match the scratches you
scribed on from the gasket. Then get a fine grit sandpaper burr, and polish
until smooth. It would cost you maybe $30 in burrs if you had to go get them
yourself, and $60 for a dremel. Once you have the heads off it only takes an
hour or 2 per head.
Devin Noel
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Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 10:08:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Jimmy Tom
Subject: RE: DOA porting and polishing
What Dave is referring to is called "port matching," where the junction
between intake or exhaust manifolds blends in smoothly and increases flow
to or from thecombustion chamber. This process helps immensly if the
ports are really mismatched and can help any reversion of airflow from the
intake into the head (air trying to get over that "step." Good stuff that
you can do at home for ~150 clams worth of tools and your own time, as
Dave mentions. Hell, you can do it for a hobby and then "port" teeth to
make a buck...that's what I'm into.
For the price that DOA is charging, though, I'd expect a full-on port and
polish job that goes from port matching to bowl work. The area that can
stand the most blending, smoothing, and shaping would be the area right
underneat the valve head in the combustion chamber. The idea here is to
increase the velocity of the air/fuel mix and also create a swirl or
"tumble" action to the air/fuel mix to promote as much atomization of the
mix as possible. As cast heads have a bunch of boogers and nubbies left
over from sand castings that impede intake/exhaust flow -- take the
majority of these out with a wide fluted (for aluminum heads) long shanked
bur. Then get a a coarse sandpaper roll and smooth the intake and exhaust
ports as far as you can reach without really changing the shape of the
port. As for the bowl area, alot of the restriction in airflow comes from
the valve guide area right under the tulip of the valve. Blend the guide,
WITHOUT NICKING THE VALVE SEATS OR PUNCHING THRU TO THE WATER JACKET!!,
into a little airfoil shap depending on the flow of the gasses (different
directions for intake and exhaust). Use a ball shaped bur and smooth the
area next to the valve guide too. Some guys take the whole valve guide
boss off and just leave the valve as the only restriction in the port, but
you might have some increased guide wear later down the line. Try to keep
the intake ports a bit "rougher" on the polish to keep air and fuel from
puddling against a smooth surface. You can have the exhaust side mirror
smooth.
You can even extend you shaping into the combustion chamber and unshroud
the valves a bit (remove material from the periphery of the chamber to
allow more flow around the valve). Remember that this may decrease your
compression ratio by as much as a half a point, but you can make up for
this by milling the head. While you're in there, take out any sharp
protuberances that may cause a hot spot for detonation. And bigger valves
won't hurt, either.
The power increases will vary depending on factors such as headers, inatke
manifolds and plumbing, fuel delivery, cam profiles, etc. One sure way to
tell if the head is flowing is to first have the heads "flowbenched" for
initial (stock) airflow at a given rate. Then after all your porting is
done, have the heads flowed again to see any gain in CFM. And remeber
that porting and polishing doesn't necessarily mean a broad increase in
power across the entire RPM range -- remember the Boss 302? Too huge of a
intake port kills port velocity at streetable rpm's, but at anything above
6000 rpms, you're glad to have it so big.
Its all labor intensive and thats what the fee is. CNC porting has taken
a bunch of the guesswork out of porting and kept the slivers outta
people's eyes....but not everyone can fit a bridgeport into their garage.
Have fun! And yeah, alot of dentist tools find their way into my
toolbox...even the syringes!
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jimmy "It'll only need a root canal" Tom
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:41:56 -0500
From: Bill
Subject: Re: Porting and Polishing Heads
Porting and polishing heads is a time honored tradition going back
through generations of drag racers, road racers, off-roaders,
motorcyclists and ALL other high performance motorsports and enthusiasts.
It polishes the air flow areas to a mirror finish after removing and
fash marks, casting excess etc.
A mirror-finished port will be about 300-400% more resistant than a
stock port to buildup... and easier to clean with those "BG"-type
liquids that are out on the market.
They give you an awesome, noticeable improvement in performance,.. and
if combined with a less restrictive intake and exhaust (along with
perhaps a timing change) could net you up to 50-60 HP in increase for
proportionally low bucks.
I've had this this done on a vehicle about 12 years ago, along with
headers, Manifold and timing change on an ol' chevy 350 and netted
about 75 horses (dyno tested).
Later
Bill Miranda
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Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:04:23 -0800
From: David Fritzsche
Subject: Re: Porting and Polishing Heads
Porting and polishing heads is an art. A very intense operation. It is not
uncommon for it to run two to three hundred dollars or more. Back in the old
days it used to be one of the first thing that was done to an engine to get
more power. If you have your heads done by a pro they also flow test the
ports to get the maximum flow through the ports, both intake and exhaust. Is
it worth it really depends what you use the engine for. In a ported and
polished engine the most benefit is seen at top end, so you do not get a lot
of build up and most engines that are run at top end all of the time are
torn down and gone through quite often.
"Real Wheelers Are Built, Not Bought"
David Fritzsche
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:35:23 -0600 (CST)
From: Brian Wiencek
Subject: Re: Downey/NWOR Cam Specs (22re)
> There has been a request for the cam specs in relation to my original
> post. These are striaght out of the most recent catalogs. Hope these
> help!
Opoen up your window, and use a fixed font, because here comes the chart
that I have of all the 22R(e) cams that I have collected to date... If
I've forgot any let me know I can add them - the ones I know I don't have
are the 'wolverine?', and the schneider. Also - I have put a web page up
with this info in a table - it's at
http://www.off-road.com/~bwiencek/22r_cam.html
- - Brian (text follows)
Cam Int Dur Exh Dur Intake Lift Exhaust lift
Adv (@.050) Adv inch - MM Inch - MM
RPM range
---------- ------------ ----------- ------------- -----------
Stock 22R 272 248 .397 -10.1 .382 - 9.7
stock 22RE 248 280 .393 -10.0 .382 - 9.7
TRD 0-4800 262 272 .416 -10.5 .430 - 10.9
idle - 4800
TRD 1600-5200 272 282 .430 -10.9 .444 - 11.3
1600 - 5200
Crane 704-0010 262 (214) 272 (224) .416 -10.5 .430 - 10.9
1400 - 4800
Crane 704-0012 272 (224) 282 (234) .430 -10.9 .444 - 11.28
1800 - 5200
Crane 704-0014 282 (234) 292 (244) .444 -11.28 .458 - 11.63
2200 - 5500
Crane 704-0016 292 (244) 302 (254) .458 -11.63 .472 - 12.1
2600 - 6000
Crane 704-0010 302 (254) 302 (254) .472 -12.1 .472 - 12.1
3000 - 6400
Downey 'broad' (206) (216) .430 -10.9 .430 - 10.9
1500 - 5000
NWOR N21806 278 278 .450 -11.5 .450 - 11.5
2500 - 6500
LC EFI street (230) (230) .424 -10.7 .424 - 10.7
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