Carburators

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Date: Fri, 25 Apr 1997 20:28:54 -0700
From: Sterling Rorden 
Subject: Secondary circuit not working on 20R carbureter
To: brinkjm@earthlink.net

Jim, thanks for your reply

I believe the problem is that the secondary diaphram is not receiving
vacuum.  I believe this because if I wire the diaphram actuating rod in
the retracted (open) position my secondary circuit works (it seems to
work independant of choke position).  I suspect there may be a leak
inside the carburater in the circuit that delivers vacuum to the
diaphram.  I don't know where the diaphram is supposed to receive vacuum
from (probabally from below the primary venturi - maybe you can
enlighten me).  Is there a check ball and spring or plug in that
circuit? If so, it is not shown in my Chilton manual (I hate Chilton but
it came with the truck).  

Any clues would be appreciated.  

Sterling

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Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 03:42:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: BCSTOY@aol.com
Subject: Secondary circuit not working on 20R carburetor
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

The second trottle is responsible for high speed say above 45 mph, so if
your secondary trottle does not want to kick in you may need to rebuild 
the carburator paying particular attention to the air circuits and jets 
feeding the secondary throttle. Use carburator cleaner and compressed air 
to blow the passages just make sure your do not lose any pieces while 
blowing. Make sure that all the rods and linkages are not binding and 
that the diafragm for the secondary throttle is in good shape.

Don't forget to post your results.

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Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 20:40:12 -0700
From: Sterling Rorden 
Subject: Secondary circuit not working on 20R carbureter
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

Thanks to all who replied.  

I disassembled the carburetor today and discovered that the primary
venturi had come loose in the bore.  The only thing supporting it was
the orifaced plug that supplies vacuum to the secondary actuating
diaphram.  This had caused aluminum from the venturi to smear into the
oriface and plug it.  I re-staked the venturi in the bore and cleaned
out the oriface with a wire.  I reassembled the carburetor and it works
fine now.  

One thing, though.  When I removed the top of the carburetor and set it
down, a small check ball fell from it.  According to my manual (and Jim
Brink) there are only four check balls in a 20R carb and they are all
accounted for.  This ball is smaller than the others.  Oh well, it works
fine without it.  

Sterling

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Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 22:20:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Geiger 
Subject: Weber carb.
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

> He thinks the Weber carb will work better than the stock one he has.  He
> has major problems at steep angles.  I do not know if going to a Weber
> will help him or not (I have EFI).

I put a Webber on a Sammy I had a few years ago and it made the problem
worse. I took it off and put the stock carb back on. If you look into the
Samurai pages at offroad.com they have described some needed changes that
should fix the Webber to work offroad.

Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html

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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 12:32:27 -0700
From: wgirindra@bbs.fronet.com (Wilkin Girindra)
Subject: weber carbs
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

I have 2 weber carbs for sale. 1 is a 32/36 and the
other is a 38DGV (both barrels open at same time).

Now what are they good for:
Excellent power for the street!
Off road they STINK if you live in the hills.
Someone might be better at tuning these things than
me but this is the scenario:
If you adjust the float one way it's great for going uphill
but always stalls going downhill. If you adjust the float
for going downhill it stalls going uphill. Then you have
to worry how this will work on the street. Not enuff float and
you stall on the flats. I spent hrs monkeying around with these
things and then decided the stock carb was far superior!!
Very, very finicky and extremely frustrating. Someone from
the flatlands might be able to make them work though. 

Like I said someone might be a master of tuning these things but
I've never been able to meet him. If anyone wants to try I will sell
both carbs for very cheap. Just email me.

Wil  

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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:05:55 EST
From: Specilizd 
Subject: 81 Carb won't drop to Low idle speed when warm ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

This question is mostly directed at Jim Brinkman.
I have an 81 4X4.  The carb is supposed to keep a high idle speed while the
engine warms up.  The it is supposed to drop of to the low idle speed.  My
truck is not consistantly dropping to the low idle.   This is the stock carb.
I've sprayed cleaner and lubricant on the linkage with no help.  Is there an
adjustment?  You can refer to page numbers in the Toyota manual if that helps.
Oh?  and this is a California smog equipped truck.


Steve Keene
TLCA 5414

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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:31:59 -0800
From: Jim Brink 
Subject: 81 Carb won't drop to Low idle speed when warm ??
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Specilizd wrote:
> 
> This question is mostly directed at Jim Brinkman.

Who?

> I have an 81 4X4.  The carb is supposed to keep a high idle speed while the
> engine warms up.  The it is supposed to drop of to the low idle speed.  My
> truck is not consistantly dropping to the low idle.   This is the stock carb.
> I've sprayed cleaner and lubricant on the linkage with no help.  Is there an
> adjustment?  You can refer to page numbers in the Toyota manual if that helps.
> Oh?  and this is a California smog equipped truck.

Sorry, I can't point out the exact page numbers in the manual but I can
direct you to the "EC", emissions control section. This will outline the
various secondary carburetor systems.

First off, has the choke housing been adjusted? If the choke is set too
rich, it will not pull off, even in the warmest weather.

I seem to remember the early 20/22R had the choke housing heated by
coolant. Not totally sure though as this varied by engine calibration.
If not, the choke heater is supplied voltage from the alternator. If the
alternator is unable to supply this voltage and the choke heater is not
coming on, this too will keep the choke set.

Are the vacuum lines intact to the choke pull-off and/or choke breaker
system? If the vacuum lines are missing or the diaphram bad in the choke
breaker/pull off, the choke will stay on. In addition, if the VSV,
vacuum switching valve, is not working, adequate vacuum is not getting
to these systems cuasing the choke to stay on.


- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician             '86 Std. Bed 22R
Manhattan Beach, CA				   32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@off-road.com
http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/jim/jim.html                      	
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR)

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Steve wrote:
>I have an 81 4X4.  The carb is supposed to keep a high idle speed 
>while the engine warms up.  The it is supposed to drop of to the 
>low idle speed.  My truck is not consistantly dropping to the low 
>idle.

I have the same problem with my '83. I find that if I move the linkage
with my hand, the engine will slow down, but it acts like the linkage
is jamming, and the carb never gets down to the idle setting. Adjusting
the carb idle speed screw has no affect because the throttle plate
does not always get all the way to the adjustment stop. I rebuilt the
linkage bell crank, and it now runs as smooth as silk, but the
problem remains. I took the carb out, and took a real close look, and
found that the throttle shaft, the bar that holds the butterfly and
connects to the linkage, does not rotate true in the carb body. I think
the holes in the carb body are worn out of round, and the throttle
does not close all the way. The only fix I know of is to take the carb
to a shop, have them drill a new hole in the carb body and insert 
bushings for the throttle shaft to rotate on. I have not done this yet,
but the problem really bugs me, as my mileage is down, and I know I'll
have to get it fixed before I can pass my next smog test, next January.

PS - While I had the carb out, I greased the shaft on both sides of the
carb body, and it worked fine for a day or two. I may just try that for
my next smog test. Be sure to get a "Pre-test" prior to your test for
record to avoid the dreaded "GROSS POLLUTER" classification if you fail.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed  
( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
______________________________________________________________


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Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 16:00:27 -0600
From: "David Eggleston" 
Subject: Re: Carb questions

- -----Original Message-----
From: Marc Sahr 
To: toy4x4@tlca.org 
Date: Monday, 10 August, 1998 22:38 PM
Subject: Carb questions


>Hi all,
>
>I have an 84 4x4, stock 22R, stock carb. I was just wondering, when the
>throttle pedal is all the way to the floor and the engine is warm,
>shouldn't both plates be fully open? I'm referring to the 2 plates that
>look like choke plates on the top of the carb, not the ones inside the
>carb. On mine, the plate closest to the engine is open slightly (maybe
>1/16") and then closes when the throttle is fully open. Is this normal? How
>do I fix?
>
Only one of these plates is the choke. It will be the one on the primary
venturi (the one away from the engine). The other plate is an "air valve"
which opens and closes according to engine demand. It is vacuum operated and
will open as engine vacuum increases. When you open the throttle under no
load, manifold vacuum drops to virtually zero and this valve shuts thus
negating any effect of the secondary venturi. Under load, manifold vacuum
will actually increase as the engine is not able to draw in enough fuel/air
mixture as it wants. This will open the air valve (which in turn lifts a
fuel metering rod) and allows the secondaries to make up the difference. As
the air valve opens, manifold vacuum decreases until a balance point is
found in which there is enough vacuum to hold open the valve to the proper
point. To bypass this setup would result is severe over-carburetion to the
point where the truck may be undriveable in normal use and at the very least
would increase fuel consumption dramatically.

==============
David Eggleston
'84 X-Cab
toy283@mho.net

That which doesn't kill me makes me stronger.

                                          -Friedrich Nietzche

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Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 06:16:40 -0700
From: "ward" 
Subject: Re: Toyota 4x4 digest: V1 #879

> Date: Mon, 1 Jun 1998 16:30:42 -0700
> From: "Brandon Miller" 
> Subject: Re: weber 
> 
> on the same note, has ANYBODY had good experiences with the 32/36?

Ya, I have, but it was on an '80 20r, it was quite a bit bigger than the
stock one and handled hills alot better.  I thought about putting it on 
my '82 22r, but the stock one works great so far.  

Mike


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Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 12:28:30 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" 
Subject: Re: weber 

"Brandon Miller"  wrote:


>on the same note, has ANYBODY had good experiences with the 32/36?

I've run 32/36s on several trucks, as have friends of mine. We've had
good luck with them as they are easy to rebuild, tune, and jet. Gas
mileage is decent on 'em if you're not in the secondary playing all the
time. Not sure exactly how well they do on extreme angles.

Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)

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Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 20:55:15 -0700
From: Jim Brink 
Subject: Re: CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT HELP

Bill Wheeler wrote:
> 
> I went to ckeck my 84 22r carburetor's idle mixture adjusting screw ,
> but cant find it.
> I have a Haynes repair manual but where the book say's it is,it's not!I
> know my stock carb must have one but where is it?


That is because it is plugged with a metal cap. RH side of the carb.,
towards the bottom. You can drill out the plug but be careful, the cap
is not that thick and you could easily damage the adj. screw.

- -- 

Jim Brink   
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