More Power

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 00:01:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: B Grant 
Subject: headers
To: tlcal 

Hi gang, I'm thinking of adding a little more performance to my very 
recently rebuilt 2F (I know I really should have done it while the engine 
was out, but you understand low cash flow).  So I thought I would use you 
as a sounding board (again).  So I'm thinking of putting some headers 
on.  I understand that this is really a good way of some more torque and 
HP.  My questions are these:  1) I hear that headers generally like to 
warp and that 3-4 years is a standard life span before this happens.  
This is not desirable.  First, is this true, and second, what can be done 
to prevent it (Jet-Hot type stuff?)?  2) Does anyone have any 
particularly good or bad experiences to tell about the various brands 
available (Man-A-Fre, Spector, Downey, etc.).  Which, if any, is the 
"best"?  3) Is this really a cost effective preformance mod, or would 
the money be better spent some where else (pwr steering, shackle 
reversal, the list is endless!)?  Thanks in advance.  

- -Bri #4675
(MTNGOAT)  
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 18:33:24 -0700
From: amigo@azstarnet.com (Scott Rowin)
Subject: Headers, cams, & differentials?
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

   Looking for comments on doing an exhaust header swap, along with a
larger exhaust system all the way back on a '88 Toy 4-Runner, 22-RE engine.
Best header looks like NWOR's, they claim what seems a bit high on the 
improvment scale (up to 25%), but sounds good anyhow.  Just wondering what
real-world improvements actual use has shown by TLCAL readers?
    Also a cam swap seems like a good way to go as well, being as I'm
thinking of doing my timing chain soon.  Is there a actual real-world 
improvement to be had here too?  (they claim 12%).  
  The numbers seeem like they're inflated, is that true, or are they
kind of a distributed percentage.. like horsepower + torque increase.
  Having 31" tires isn't fun on grades on the highway, hence the above
improvements to get it down the road better.. but I was also looking 
at instead doing a differential swap to 4.88 gearing on both.  
    Which would provide the better on-highway peformance without major
cuts in fuel economy?  I have decent gas milage with low RPMs at the 
moment, but thats a catch-22 situation -- low RPMs = no power.  

                                                        Just wondering..
                                                                Scott

        

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 23:15:21 +0000
From: "Mike Graham" 
Subject: Headers, cams, & differentials?
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

  Interestingly enough, I just read an article on improvements for 
22-REs.  Let me dig it out.  Okay, do you already have a 20R head on 
that thing?  This article raves about the difference the head swap 
makes.  Anyway, also mentioned is a heavier flywheel (about 30 
pounds) to smooth it out and help with torque production. Getting 
back to exhausts... I was wrong.  It was the sammy that the mentioned 
funky exhausts for.  Sorry.  The Downey header is mentioned for the 
22-R to bring the power down out of the rafters, but no 'cat-back' 
systems are mentioned.  
  What kind of carb are you running?
  By the way who is NWOR?  Do you mean Northwest Off Road? 

> Also a cam swap seems like a good way to go as well, being as I'm
> thinking of doing my timing chain soon.  Is there a actual real-world 
> improvement to be had here too?  (they claim 12%).  
  I'm not sure what kind of cams are available.  I'm always leery of 
cam changes; I figure Toyota has the big bucks and smart guys; the 
cam should be pretty good.  It's not like it's cheaper to make it 
wrong, right?  There are a bunch of companies making cams for these 
engines (Clifford, Crane, Downey, etc), but I'm not sure what their 
specs are.

> Having 31" tires isn't fun on grades on the highway, hence the above
> improvements to get it down the road better.. but I was also looking
> doing a differential swap to 4.88 gearing on both.  
  Diff swaps are pricey I've been told. 8-)  You should look into a 
20R head first.  You should see an added 10 horses just for doing the 
head swap; no other changes.  If you want another 15 look into the 
downey setup with a Weber 32/36.  There are kits out there to set 
yourself up with dual sidedraft carbs and stuff like that, but you're 
getting into race equipment (which is fine if you're not going to be 
driving more than 20 miles from the gas station, and you don't mind 
letting the truck warm up for 15 minutes before you drive it).  You 
can even get a downey setup with velocity stacks.  Woohoo!  8-)
  Apparently a guy managed to get 350hp out of one of those for a 
drag race.  One drag race.  The engine promptly died at the end of 
the track.
  
  The smart money seems to be on the 20R head, the downey carb setup 
(there's a similar setup which Northwest pushes with an Offenhauser 
manifold, but the downey uses the stock manifold and gets about the 
same results), some downey headers and a free-flowing exhaust (maybe 
a Borla if you just won the lottery).  Anyway, these mods should add 
about 35 horsepower, which is pretty decent. 

>Which would provide the better on-highway peformance without major
> cuts in fuel economy?  I have decent gas milage with low RPMs at 
> but thats a catch-22 situation -- low RPMs = no power.  
  Just stay away from sidedraft carbs and funky cams.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//  Mike Graham 
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//  1981 BJ42 24V Diesel LandCruiser, "New brakes, new problems."
//
//  "Smell?  What smell?"
//
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:45:57 +0000
From: "Mike Graham" 
Subject: headers
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> HP.  My questions are these:  1) I hear that headers generally like to 
> warp and that 3-4 years is a standard life span before this happens.  
  This is true if you have thin headers and like to shut the engine 
down hot.  I've heard of all kinds of ways to try to get more life 
out of them; funky sprays and wraps, but I've never found anyone 
who's tried it and it worked.  What you can do is just use them, and 
try not to shut down the engine when it's smokin' hot; if you just 
drove 100 miles on the highway, let it idle for 10 minutes before you 
shut it down.  When they do warp (and they will eventually) you can 
just take them off, put on a new gasket, and use a generous dose of 
RTV copper or another really HIGH HEAT sealant.  That'll keep you 
going for 10 years or so.

> "best"?  3) Is this really a cost effective preformance mod, or would 
> the money be better spent some where else (pwr steering, shackle 
> reversal, the list is endless!)?  Thanks in advance.  
  What you have to do (and it's *hard* to do) is sit down and really 
think about what you'd like to improve about the truck, but not just 
to have something else to add to your .sig file, but because some 
aspect of the cruiser gets you down.  Heck, the money may be best 
spent on new seat covers!  If the performance is lacking, then you 
might want to start on the cheap stuff first; look into a high-power 
ignition system.  I'm not sure what mods you actually have.
____________________________


Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:33:13 -0500
From: "Jay Kopycinski-RYNA10" 
Subject: Headers, cams, & differenti
To: "TLCAL@tlca.org%azbcsm1" 

                      Subject:                              Time:  9:00 AM
  OFFICE MEMO         Headers, cams, & differentials?       Date:  9/12/96
>I'm not sure what kind of cams are available.  I'm always leery of 
>cam changes; I figure Toyota has the big bucks and smart guys; the 
>cam should be pretty good.  It's not like it's cheaper to make it 
>wrong, right?  There are a bunch of companies making cams for these 
>engines (Clifford, Crane, Downey, etc), but I'm not sure what their 
>specs are.

Actually, the Toyota cams have their timing retarded maybe 7 degrees
or so for emissions reasons. Aftermarket cams restore this loss by
advancing the cam timing back. Emissions do rise though, but so
does engine power.

It's not cheaper to make it wrong, but the automakers have different
design priorities than you may have.

>Diff swaps are pricey I've been told. 8-)  You should look into a 
>20R head first.  You should see an added 10 horses just for doing the 
>head swap; no other changes.  If you want another 15 look into the 
>downey setup with a Weber 32/36.

Sorry, the 32/36 is a great carb, but don't expect 15 horses out
of it alone. You'll pick up a few ponies, but what you will mostly
gain is improved mid range responsiveness due to the venturi 
design and the manual secondaries. CFM rating for the 32/36 is
just slightly lower than the stock 22R carb.

Jay Kopycinski      '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ

------------------------------

Return-Path: 
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 01:00:01 HST
From: NightLight (The Administrator) 
Reply-To: TLCAL@tlca.org
X-Ignore: TLCAL
Subject: TLCAL Digest V1 #54
To: tlcal-dlist@unix.off-road.com

Subject: Headers, cams, & differenti
To: "TLCAL@tlca.org%azbcsm1" 

                      Subject:                              Time:  9:00 AM
  OFFICE MEMO         Headers, cams, & differentials?       Date:  9/12/96
>Looking for comments on doing an exhaust header swap, along with a
>larger exhaust system all the way back on a '88 Toy 4-Runner, 22-RE engine.
>Best header looks like NWOR's, they claim what seems a bit high on the 
>improvment scale (up to 25%), but sounds good anyhow.  Just wondering what
>real-world improvements actual use has shown by TLCAL readers?

I ran the NWOR header on my '85 22RE. It is a nice quality unit and I was
pleased with the results when combined with a free-flowing exhaust
behind it. You will gain mostly horsepower, with little increase in low 
end torque. The unit worked well for highway cruising where a little
more power is useful at 2400 up rpm. "Up to 25%" is the key phrase.
Don't expect any where near this kind of a gain.

>Also a cam swap seems like a good way to go as well, being as I'm
>thinking of doing my timing chain soon.  Is there a actual real-world 
>improvement to be had here too?  (they claim 12%).  

I used the NWOR cam in my engine. The cam advances the cam timing 
back for max performance, but at the expense of increased emissions.
It will increase your low/mid range torque, whether 12%, it's hard
to say. You will probably have to tweak your air flow meter a bit
to readjust the air/fuel mixture at idle/low rpm.

>The numbers seeem like they're inflated, is that true, or are they
>kind of a distributed percentage.. like horsepower + torque increase.

They're usually pretty generous with their numbers.

>Having 31" tires isn't fun on grades on the highway, hence the above
>improvements to get it down the road better.. but I was also looking at 
instead
>doing a differential swap to 4.88 gearing on both.  

A bit more expensive, but the gearing will make the biggest impact on
your highway cruising ability.

>Which would provide the better on-highway peformance without major
>cuts in fuel economy?

Gears. 

But if I was going to do engine mods, I'd do a Weber 32/36 first, then 
the header, and then the cam. 

YMMV......Hope this helps.

Jay Kopycinski      '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
Gilbert, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:51:30 +0000
From: "Mike Graham" 
Subject: Headers, cams, & differenti
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> Sorry, the 32/36 is a great carb, but don't expect 15 horses out
> of it alone. You'll pick up a few ponies, but what you will mostly
> gain is improved mid range responsiveness due to the venturi 
> design and the manual secondaries. CFM rating for the 32/36 is
> just slightly lower than the stock 22R carb.
  I meant 15 horses for the downey manifold adapter with the Weber 
carb, but it turns out to be a moot point, because the engine we were 
talking about (I'm the one who screwed up) is fuel-injected.  Oops.

 
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//  Mike Graham 
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//  1981 BJ42 24V Diesel LandCruiser, "New brakes, new problems."
//
//  "Smell?  What smell?"
//
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:55:45 -0500
From: Jack Alford 
Subject: Headers, cams, & differentials?
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

Mike Graham wrote:

>  Interestingly enough, I just read an article on improvements for 
>22-REs.  Let me dig it out.  Okay, do you already have a 20R head on 
>that thing?  This article raves about the difference the head swap 

Mike, the 22RE is a fuel injected head and can't accept the 20R head
unless you can find a welder to do some major welding mods to the
aluminum head. So, this isn't really an option I'd consider.
Granted I've talked to someone who has done it.
The biggest drawback to me about this swap, which is normally done to
80-84 22R's not 22RE's, is that compression goes so high 10.5:1. You've
got to run the best gas you can buy to keep it from knocking.
There's a guy on this list who's done this swap, but I think
he's running a 4.3L v6 now ...

Getting back to the guys original questions about motor mods, I'd go
with a cat back exhaust system w/2.5" pipes, a NWOR header (a tri-y as
opposed to the downey 4-into-1), and I'd have to disagree with Mike,
Toyota might have the big bucks but they build engines for all around
performance not superior power, I don't think I've ever had
a Toyota PU or a land cruiser(40 Series) ever pass me on the highway.
Look in the NWOR
catalog, there's a chart that lists the cams they sell and what kind
of grind they have. I've bought a bunch of stuff from NWOR and have
always been satisfied ... Downey I can't say so much for personally.
Downey does sell that fancy intake for 22RE's and super-dupper injectors
and a few other 22RE specific go-fast parts ... changing gears with
only 31" tires while not only being quite costly would greatly
affect your 5th gear cruising RPM, i.e. gas mileage. The cat
back exhaust with the header greatly helped my truck ... sounds 
cool too !! ;-)

If that doesn't satisfy
your right foot let me know and I'll dig up the info on the super
charger that's sold for 2*R motors, you'll have to
lose the Fuel injection though. They claim 200+ hp and over
300+ ft. lbs. of torque from the mighty Toyota 4 cylinder !!!


  - jack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:08:51 -0500
From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks)
Subject: Headers, cams, & differentials?
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> Interestingly enough, I just read an article on improvements for
>22-REs.  Let me dig it out.  Okay, do you already have a 20R head on
 ^^^^^^
Mike, am I missing something or did the article mean 22R? Scott has a 
22RE. The 20R head "bolt on" is only simple on 22R blocks prior to about June of
1984.  Using the EFI with a 20R head and pre June 84 block is possible
but it is not simple. Scrapping the Toyota EFI system in favor of a 
32/36 DGEV sounds like a big step backwards to me.  There are a lot of 
mods available to 22RE owners, talk to the folks at Downey (310) 
949-9494 they have been big in racing for years, as to NWOR they 
make BIG claims, sell some good stuff and some JUNK.  The Offy. 
manifold is trash I used one for years. After hearing a lot of bad 
things about it I switched back to the stock Toyota manifold, bored 
out the plenum (large enough to accept the 38/38 DGES)  and made a set 
of adapter plates to interface between the Toyota manifold and Weber 
carbs.  First I put the 32/36 on; response was quicker, power was up 
as was mileage( the only difference being the Toyota vs. Offy
manifolds).  Next I put the 38/38 DGES on; the truck is finally fun to
drive, hills that use to require 3rd I can now take in 5th. There are 
many other mods to this engine as well; larger piston and valves, 
headers and free flow exhaust, mid range cam, Mallory Unilite 
distributor, etc.  On a stock engine the 32/36 might be fine, but use
a modified stock manifold and forget the Offy.

Carb                    Flow
Stock 22R Aisan         326 cfm
Weber 32/36             325 cfm
Weber 38/38             390 cfm
  Just a side note, when buying Weber carbs buy from distributors East 
of the Mississippi such as NOPI 1-800-277-6674 or Greenfield 
413-774-2819 they are far cheaper than west coast distributors 
(DGEV and DGES for about $230) Sorry this was not much help to you 
Scott but I'm still pissed at NWOR for selling that Offy trash.

******************************
* stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov *
* Stuart Banks               *
* NASA GSFC Code 713         *
* Greenbelt, MD 20771        *
* (301)286-5934              *
******************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:18:43 -0500
From: zontals@falcon.cc.ukans.edu (Billy Schweiger)
Subject: Headers Reply
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

- - -Bri #4675
(MTNGOAT)  


i have downey headers, but wish i would have gone with man-a-fre's as 
they seem easier to fit.  either way DONT use the gasket supplied with 
the headers as mine fell apart in about a week.  i now have an OEM 
gasket which works much better.  use lots of that gasket sealer stuff.  
the performance improvement was pretty dramatic.  they produce a lot
of heat, although i have yet to have a serious problem with this. 
i hope they dont warp on me in a year or 2.  putting on a low flow 
exhaust at the same time seems to have been a good idea.


have fun
billy schwieger
zontals @falcon.cc.ukans.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:44:46 -0700
From: Chase Gregory 
Subject: Headers Reply
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

I'm on my fourth Man-A-Fre header...(four different trucks). And have 
never had a warpage problem, yet... I agree w/ MTNGOAT that the supplied 
header gasket is usually junk. I just buy and OEM manifold gasket and 
make painstakingly sure that the header is shimmed to the exact thickness 
of the intake - or vice versa. I think the intake is 10mm at the bolt 
head and headers are usually 13mm or 14mm due to the tubes being 
welded on the head side of the flange.

I have'nt had to use any sealer, but out of curiosity - what kind of 
sealer takes the heat and pressure? Sounds like something good to keep 
around the garage.

Also, take care to torque them properly.

- -- 
------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:59:41 -0400
From: Eugene Cole 
Subject: Headers & carb-heat
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

   "I hear that headers generally like to warp and 
    that 3-4 years is a standard life span before 
    this happens.  
    This is true if you have thin headers and like to 
    shut the engine down hot.  I've heard of all kinds 
    of ways to try to get more life out of them; funky 
    sprays and wraps, but I've never found anyone 
    who's tried it and it worked.  

My experience with headers has only once lead to a leak at
the gasket (so I am lucky).  That was with a set of headers
|from Man-A-Fre (installed by a previous owner).  Six months
after I replaced the gasket the tube for #5 developed a crack. 
I modify the Downey headers in the following manner (they
have always required additional flange grinding to properly 
clear the studs):  
1  grind the flange so that the studs fit without interference.
2  compltely remove/cut the flange for a short distance
between #3  & #4 (basically creating 2 flanges)  
3  allow the gasket-goop to thouroughly "skin" instead of just
starting to "skin" before mounting the manifolds.  


The header problem that I have not found a "confident" fix for
is carb-heat.  I mounted a home-made plate to the bottom of
the intake manifold and plumb'd a heater hose to run through
the (for $30+ more Man-a-free will sell you a similar plate).  I
sold the truck before I ever had a chance to drive it in truly
cold weather so I do not know how well it would work when it
was essential that it work.  It worked at 20 degrees F.  

A neighbor In Colorado had carb-icing problems on his 40
with headers and no carb heat.  

I think that a Downey "smog header" could be made to feed
hot air to the underside of the intake manifold.  

My observation about headers (subjective) is that they do
improve performance and fuel economy.  It is esential to
install a smallish rear-pipe to avoid losing low speed torque.  

Regards
- -- Eugene Cole
   ECOLE@IMF.ORG


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:16:57 -0800
From: nick hagen 
Subject: 22RE turbo manifold
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

As a 4Runner owner I'm assuming I can still post to this list:

Does anyone know where to find an exhaust manifold from a Toyota turbo 
application? I'm thinking the turbo was bolted directly to the manifold 
on the '87 turbo 4 cyl trucks. Is this correct? I'm considering the 
installation of a turbo on the '91 4cyl 4Runner my wife just picked up. 
I'd like to use as many stock parts as possible. The truck's awfully 
slow and I'm trying desperately to avoid the (cough, choke) 5.0 Liter 
Ford conversion I tried on a similar vehicle a few years ago.

As an alternative, does anyone have experience modifying the normally 
aspirated 22RE, say by head porting, exhaust, and camshaft, to get up to 
approximately 130 hp or so? The power band needs to stay in roughly the 
same ballpark as original to avoid the need for steeper gearing. What 
mods or HP levels will the mass air/computer support? 

Thanks for any comments.

Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:48:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: 22RE turbo manifold
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

> As a 4Runner owner I'm assuming I can still post to this list:
> 
> Does anyone know where to find an exhaust manifold from a Toyota turbo 
> application? I'm thinking the turbo was bolted directly to the manifold 
> on the '87 turbo 4 cyl trucks. Is this correct? I'm considering the 
> installation of a turbo on the '91 4cyl 4Runner my wife just picked up. 
> I'd like to use as many stock parts as possible. The truck's awfully 
> slow and I'm trying desperately to avoid the (cough, choke) 5.0 Liter 
> Ford conversion I tried on a similar vehicle a few years ago.

I don't know anything about the turbo toyota 4cylinders except that parts
tend to be somewhat pricey...also, I'm under the impression that, among
other things, they run a lower compression ratio, so to do this right, you
would probably need to swap in the lower compression pistons.  These
trucks also had heavier duty tranny's and rear axles, though the stock
ones should probably hold up okay.  If you really want to do this, try to
find a truck with a complete drivetrain, or at least a complete engine. 

Have you considered a supercharger?  NWOR sells a complete kit, designed
for the 22RE for about 2000 bucks.  It's a lot of $$$, but may be cheaper,
or at least easier than the toyota EFI.. It's a thought anyway.

> 
> As an alternative, does anyone have experience modifying the normally 
> aspirated 22RE, say by head porting, exhaust, and camshaft, to get up to 
> approximately 130 hp or so? The power band needs to stay in roughly the 
> same ballpark as original to avoid the need for steeper gearing. What 
> mods or HP levels will the mass air/computer support? 

We've had pretty good luck with header and a free flow exhaust.  Also, if
you've got over 100,000, a new cat may help too.  These things tend to add
more 'pep' and seem to make it easier to hold highway speeds...but don't
expect too much.  Haven't tried cam's yet, but I would expect them to
offer a bit more power...can't say for sure though.  But with a free flow
exhaust and a decent cam, you *should* get at least 130hp.  Heck, if you
believe what you read in the catalogues, you should get about 135-145hp.

> 
> Thanks for any comments.
> 
> Nick
> 
no prob,

Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:29:53 +0000
From: Willem-Jan Markerink 
Subject: 3B gearbox input shaft specs
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

On 25 Nov 96 at 9:28, mike@headwaters.com wrote:

>   According to the FAQ my '81 should have a 19 spline input shaft, 
> but it doesn't say how long it is (aside from the fact that it is 
> 1.5" longer than one in a 2F.. but how long is *that*? and why not 
> metric?) or how thick it is.
> 
>   I'm starting to get interested in the prospect of putting a Dyna 
> truck gearbox in my rig.  Has a 21% overdrive, and a 5.71:1 first 
> gear.  That should give me a grunt gear of about the same as I have 
> now, even after I put big tires on, but my torque peak will be up to 
> 115km/h in 4th gear with '32s.  Lovely.
> 
>   Does anyone out there know what the torque chart looks like for a 
> 3B?  I don't remember seeing one anywhere.  Since it is a diesel I 
> would *assume* that it has a pretty flat peak.  I'm just wondering 
> how high you can rev without losing too much torque.

Mike, perhaps an overly redundant note: if you combine your torque
peak with a too high speed, you'll never be able to reach or
maintain that speed in the first place (other than downhill 
sections....:-))

As an extreme example, you can't combine the theoretical top speed of
a vehicle (given engine spec's and wind/rolling resistance of the
vehicle) with your torque peak, you'll have to find a combination
for hp peak. HP peak is the rpm above and below which the product of
torque x rpm (with a certain constant) decreases. Torque peak is the
rpm above and below which torque decreases.
Generally, you want to be above your torque peak, but below or on HP 
peak. In that case a slight downhill section won't force you to down 
shift, which it would if you were on or below your torque peak. Of 
course, if torque is sufficient, you can look for the lowest rpm that 
you can use for a given speed. 

But using 4th gear at torque peak 115km/h as you plan means that you
are using 4th gear as a huge overdrive, which means that the gear 
split below that will be far from optimal/convenient.
Note that even our HDJ-80 runs above its torque peak at that speed, 
but we are talking about more than twice the torque available....8-))
PS: did you know that the guys who make the Quaife diff also make 6sp 
gear boxes for rally use? (sequential and ordinary ones) 
I would love a 6th or 7th gear on both our 60 and 80....8-))

FWIW, torque peak is where the engine is the most efficient, and also 
where an intercooler has the most effect, away from the peak it brings less 
gain; torque peak increase in general is higher than hp increase.

End of college, you may go now....;-))


 
- --
Bye,

       _/      _/       _/_/_/_/_/       _/_/_/_/_/
     _/  _/  _/               _/       _/  _/  _/
     _/  _/ illem    _/     _/ an    _/  _/  _/ arkerink
                     _/_/_/  



      The desire to understand 
is sometimes far less intelligent than
     the inability to understand



[note: 'a-one' & 'en-el'!]

------------------------------


Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 07:49:17 -0500
From: Michael Greenway 
Subject: 22RE turbo manifold
To: nhagen@deltanet.com

Nick...
In response to your question of how to speed up the 91 22RE 4-Runner, I
have a few suggestions. Ist of all if you go up in tire size you will 
need to change the R&P ratio. I would supercharge it before I turbo 
charge but both are pricey. For less bucks you can get a K&N air filter
system and the Downey catalog explains how to adjust your Mass Flow 
sensor to compensate. Add a header and maybe one of the Jacobs ignition
systems. EFI Computer chip upgrades are available from Performance
products. If you don't have Emissions tests you could switch to a 20R
head with a RV cam and a 38mm carb. This mod will give you a
noticeable difference. LC Engineering sells kits and complete engines in
the 140hp to 200hp range. My favorite is the Supercharged 185hp
engine, it has the flattest torque curve.
Good luck.
Michael Greenway TLCA#3000
76 FJ40, 81 mini, 86 4-Runner (the last two with 22R's)

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 21:06:57 -0800
From: nick hagen 
Subject: was: 22RE turbo manifold
To: TLCAL@tlca.org

I want to thank everyone for the response to my post about turbo-ing the 
22RE and add a little info in case it helps anyone else:

The '87 turbo exhaust manifold is available from Toyota dealers for 
approximately $230.

A Garret T-3 turbo with integral wastegate is available from Turbo 
City in Orange, CA for $455. No core is required.

A Greddy fuel and ignition management unit is available from Turbo 
City for approximately $600. It may not be required for low boost 
conditions, especially if you use lower compression pistons. Also, 
a custom circuitry may be buildable to make use of the stock cold
start injector under boost conditions, thereby avoiding the 
cost of the Greddy unit. Also, a MSD unit with boost retard could 
be adapted for this. It's commonly used by the supercharged 5.0 
Mustang crowd for the same purpose.
 
Intake and exhaust plumbing, while straight forward could cost 
another 1-2 hundred bucks.

I'm still interested in doing this if I can talk the wife into 
it as it's her rig. Does anyone know how much addtional airflow 
over stock that the Toyota EFI can handle? I mean, will the 
computer have a fit when the mass air sensor tells it that the 
motor is drawing 30% more air than stock? I appreciate and welcome 
any comments, suggestions, or corrections.

Nick

------------------------------

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 14:03:57 -0500 (EST)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

    I have a '90 4Runner SR5 V6.  I have made many mods to my truck.  They
include: Jacobs OmniPak and 8.5mm Energy Core wires, Downey High Performance
Air Intake System, Borla Cat-Back Exhaust, Rancho RS9000 shocks w/ dual
in-cab remote, auxilary gas tank (11.5 gal), Bushwacker Extend-a-Fenders,
32x1150x15 BFG AT's on American Racing Type 41 rims (15x8), custom
polyeurethane swaybar bushings, Performance Products Progressive Rate rear
springs (1.5+" over stock), Bosch Pilot Fog Lights, Bosch Driving Lights,
rear mounted fog lights, and all synthetic oils and lubes.

    Of the "power" mods, I changed the air intake first.  I noticed a very
slight increase in mileage, and a better "felt" throttle response.  I next
tried 7mm after market wires.  They were better than stock, but I noticed
little difference.  I then added the Jacobs OmniPak and wires.  Again, a
slight "felt" increase in throttle response and possibly in mpg. I added the
Borla because my old muffler had holes big enough to stick your hand in.
 When I added it, "BOOM" my truck performance jumped by leaps and bounds. I
had a significant increase in response time and holding power.  I can pass
cars at highway speeds and cruise most hills without having to downshift (5
sp manual).  I can not tell you for sure that the Borla alone made this
difference, or whether it was a combination of my other mods.

    That said, if you don't want to wait for your current exhaust to die, I
would go with the exhaust first.  If you can add headers, that may give you
even more "umph."  Next (or first for small bucks) add a K&N filter to your
stock housing or switch out your air intake altogether.  Downey and Borla
both make air intake systems (I preferred the Downey - larger K&N filter and
more substantial look).  Another possible inexpensive change would be to
switch over to synthetic oil in your engine, diffs, tranny, and xfer case.
 You can get synth lube too.

    I would be happy to expand upon any of my mods if anyone is interested.

Bob (Pack Rat)
TXPakRat@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:23:26 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared  Rogers" 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>I'm looking for more power for my 93 4Runner V-6 5 spd 4x4.  Any ideas?
>Whats the best bang for the buck?

Since the 4runner has a really restrictive exhaust system, I'd start there. 
You can either buy a pre-made/ready to install system from Borla, or 
simply install a free-flow muffler. The Borla system is around $450 from 
Performance Products, but comes with a 1,000,000 mile warranty. Also, in 
the latest catalog they offer a K&N filter free with every Borla purchase. 
Having a free-flow muffler installed would probably be a lot cheaper than 
the Borla, however welding is required. (I had a free-flow muffler 
installed on my 89 4x4 truck for $20.) This opens you up to a lot more 
possiblities. You can choose the Muffler from several that are available 
from performance shops including Borla, Walker Dynomax, etc... You can 
also choose to have the exhaust exit straight back, or you can use the 
existing exhaust routing and pipes. This solution will run you
anywhere from $50 to $400 depending on exactly what you want done. 

The next thing I would look into is the air filter. Since your vehicle 
is 4WD and you probably don't want to risk getting water/etc into the 
intake, I'd stay away from the "airbox replacement" systems. A simple 
K&N filter will give you better airflow and simply replaces your stock 
filter. These are also supposedly good for 1,000,000 miles, however 
occaisional maintenance is required.

You may also want to look into upgrading the ignition system with a 
Jacobs coil, wires, etc... There are also computer upgrades available 
for the 4runner but they run about $400 and people question whether 
they really do much. (They are supposed to modify the Air/Fuel 
mixture.) If you really want more power, I've heard that a header 
system will really unlock the power of the 3.0l V6, however it's 
not cheap. You will need to get it professionally installed and it
will run you about 5-7 shop hours labor.

Hope this helps! You're lucky to own a vehicle that a lot of 
companies make upgrades for.

Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6


- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 09:29:41 -0800 (PST)
From: " Jared  Rogers" 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

>Underdrive crank pulley Approx. 10 Hp

What is this and how does it give you more power?


Jared Rogers
1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6

- ---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:03:43 -0600
From: Steve Capuano 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

smaller diametrical pitch on the crank (smaller pulley) makes the 
accesories turn slower which frees up HP.  Talked to Competition 
Sales today about the pulley and they said it frees up 10% not 
10 HP so you would get 19 HP for the new V6 and 15 For the four

At 09:29 AM 3/17/97 -0800, you wrote:
>>Underdrive crank pulley Approx. 10 Hp
>
>What is this and how does it give you more power?
>
>
>Jared Rogers
>1989 Toyota 4x4 DX X-CAB V6
>1990 Toyota Celica GT-S
>1991 Toyota 4runner SR5 4WD V6
>
>---------------------------------------------------------
>Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>---------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 18:48:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

On Mon, 17 Mar 1997, Steve Capuano wrote:

> 
> smaller diametrical pitch on the crank (smaller pulley) makes the 
> accesories turn slower which frees up HP.  Talked to Competition 
> Sales today about the pulley and they said it frees up 10% not 10 
> HP so you would get 19 HP for the new V6 and 15 For the four

Just curious; which accessories does this affect?  I wouldn't want 
to slow down the water pump, the alternator, or even the steering 
box.  What's left?  AC?

Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:53:17 -0500
From: WartHog 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

I Love these claims.

If I did everything to a vehicle that "saved" power, I would wind up
gaining more power than the vehicle makes.


Mark

rheschel@bright.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 21:07:29 -0600
From: Steve Capuano 
Subject: '93 4Runner needs more power Mr. Sulu!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

slows all down that are connected to crank pulley...sounds crazy, but it is
only a slight drop in RPM.  My buddy has one and he can only tell that he
has it at night with the A/C and headlights and radio all going at the same
time.  Even then the lights dim almost imperceptiblely.
Steve C.

-----------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:51:38 -0400
From: "R. W. 'Butch' Stiles"
Subject: Increase HP/Weber Carbs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Stam Stam wrote:
>
> My '82 longbed 4x4 is a dream, but I need more power!  With the 22R and
> 32 x 11.50 BFG A/T I can't ever get into 5th on the interstate, please
> don't tell me this is normal.  I've done every minor tune up possible
> w/little improvement.
>
>         New cap and rotor
>         New Air/fuel filter
>         New Plugs
>         Timed to spec.
>         Carb cleaners and additives
>
> The exhasut and plug wires are new so I don't believe the problem lies
> there.  I've got a "low milage" Japan engine (no maintainace records) and
> stock carb with cal emmisions.  I belive all the hoses and junk are
> stealing my power.  A 2.4L engine, even if it is only 8 valve
> construction, has GOT to be able to pull more ponies than what I'm getting.
> I usually go 4x4ing with a group of friends that ride in CJ-5's and
> CJ-7's, and their 304 and 401 AMC V-8's are humbling to me.  I need help!
>
> My questions are:
>
>         Has anyone done a Weber DGEV conversion on their 22R?  How's the
>         performance?
>
>         What about emmisions on a DGEV?  I have to DEQ in Portland soon.
>
>         Should I try Headers/Duel exhaust before the carb swap?
>
>         Are Japanese 22R any different than their American Counterparts?
>
> Also, are there any tricks to geting better articulation cheaply?  Any
> helpful response to increasing HP would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Stamati
> stamatis@ucs.orst.edu

The Weber is a step in the right direction, however, you need to look at
your whole system. The carb will get more air/fuel into the engine, but
without exhaust changes it won't be able to get back out. Also look at
the air intake, is it unrestricted? And lastly think about the cam, this
is the item that ties the whole thing together. The idea is to maximize
the "volumetric efficiency" of the motor, the more air/fuel it can
process, the more power it can make. But be careful, use components that
will work together, ask LOTS of questions, and NEVER forget that the
EMISSIONS POLICE are out there! Have fun and let us know how you do.

                        Butch Stiles
                        rokitman@erols.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 18:11:20 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Increase HP/Weber Carbs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

A little-known secret amongst 22R builers is adjustment of the CAM (not
ignition) timing. For better overall performance, advancing the cam
timing approx. 3 degrees seems to be the magic number. I've found some
22Rs off as much as 3 degrees retarded from the factory--thus explaining
why some run better than others. I understand LC Engineering has a
really nice adjustable cam sprocket with a variable-adjustable keyway.
It costs about $95.00. Supposedly Toysport has them too. Last time I
checked, TRD was out of stock and did not have an ETA on when more would
be in. The others I have played with just have slots for 0 degrees
(stock) or 3 degrees adv. or ret. A friend of mine from Australia who
owns an auto repair and dyno. shop made up mine on a jig he built just
for this purpose. Seems Australians want more power out of the're 22Rs
as well. I do not know the actual horsepower/torque increases but
seat-of-the-pants driveability is noticeably improved. Remember, for
every gain, you loose something else. Advancing the cam will give you
better low-end response, hurting the top-end and vice-versa. I have not
really played with this modification with aftermarket
headers/exhaust/carburation, etc. so I can't really speak for which
combination works best. Thats your job!

I would have to say, however, that a stock '82 with 32" tires MIGHT be a
slight bit underpowered.

Most differences between USA and Japaneese 22R were in the intake and
exhaust. 21Rs have some unique cylinder head features and some anciliary
water plumbing differences (I think, It's been a while).

- --
Jim Brink                               1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician         135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net                   32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
                                        Stock 4.10 gears
                                        Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Apr 1997 22:39:58 -0500
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Increase HP/Weber Carbs
To: toy4x4@tlca.org

Jim wrote:

>A little-known secret amongst 22R builers is adjustment of the CAM (not
>ignition) timing. For better overall performance, advancing the cam
>timing approx. 3 degrees seems to be the magic number. I've found some

I've heard from several sources that Toyota purposely retarded the cam
3 degrees to help control emissions.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL

           '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
            Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB
       SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers

------------------------------


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 21:41:55 -0700
From: James Brink 
Subject: still weak
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Stam Stam wrote:
> 
> I'm still not satisfied with the power coming out of my 22R.  I've put on
> a set of Downey 4-1 headers, and a Weber 32/36 DGV carb.  I've timed,
> adjusted valves, and done every other minor adjustment (I think).
> Whats left short of 20R heads or an RV cam.  What am I forgetting?
>   I think I'll be buying the cam next week.
> 
> ? Where should I plug in the PCV with the new carb?  Any old vaccume
> line? lord knows I got plenty, my 82 longbed USED to be Cal.
> 
> Stamati

Get an adjustable camshaft sprocket; one with individual keyways or
multiple adjustment. My Australian-mechanic/22R guru says the real power
in the R series motors is advancing the cam timing 2-3 degrees. Most are
3 degrees retarded or more form the factory, according to him. These
sprockets are available from TRD, TOYSPORT, Advanced Engine Management
(AEM), and L.C. Engineering. I've seen them priced anywhere from 65.00
to $195.00.

PCV should be located at a vacuum source near or below the throttle
plates.

Hope this helps.

Jim
- -- 
Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
					Stock 4.10 gears
					Rear Lock-Right (TRD)

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 16:00:07 -0700
From: Randy Ring 
Subject: More Poop on HP
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" 

For you 22RE guys & gals:

I had an 86, 22RE, auto, LB for 177,000 miles (at 177K miles it used 1/4 
quart of oil for 3,000).  It was my daily driver and my serious off-road 
toy. I used (in the tank) Berryman Chemtool Carb/Injector cleaner (1 
can) about every other oil change (3K miles), so about 6K miles.  
Berryman is a petroleum distillate and by far the best injector cleaner
I've used.  It's my understanding that  methanol-based injector/carb 
cleaners in the gas tank have an appetite for rubber.  It made a
noticeable difference in performance when I ran a can of Berryman in the
tank.  I also ran 20-50 GTX Castrol and later switched to 10-40, around 
90K miles.  The engine seemed to rev easier on the 10-40. I lived in CA 
so no real temp extremes. My 22RE also liked to breathe fresh air.  I 
changed the air filter (stock filter) every 7-10K miles (depending on 
how many dusty roads I had been on).

The only mod I made to the engine was headers, and I was very impressed 
with the added torque and top-end performance.  It was the best $300 I 
spent on the truck for added performance.  Before I bought the headers I 
talked to Doug Thorely's technical guru and he said that I would 
probably gain between 10 and 15 horsepower and I would notice the gain 
between 2000 and 3500 RPM.  He even offered to Dyno the truck before and 
after at no cost, but at the time, I didn't want to go thru the hassle. 
Looking back, it would have fun to see it with my own eyes. I just took 
his word and expertise. They were right on.
Hope this helps.
Randy "Gnarls" Ring
Randy_Ring@environ.com
 

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 12:37:49 -0600
From: "ARTHUR RUMPF" 
Subject: Superchargers or What I Did On My Summer Vacation
To: 

Hi All,
 In response to a few inquiries here is my experience with superchargers:
 I was looking for more power from my 82 22R for safe passing on 2 lane
roads while pulling my 900 LB tent trailer, that's what started all this.
In retrospect a different vehicle may have been better, but in 1989 there
were not any decent affordable (used) V-6 powered mini trucks and the Toy
was paid for.
 I only had the supercharger on for a year, it was very fast, left other V6
Toys in the dust, but the engine had too much compression to really enjoy
the power (lots of pinging), I couldn't keep my foot in it for long.  Also
it took up the place where the AC compressor had to go. I didn't want to
rebuild the engine at the time to reduce the compression and wanted AC
(after 3 days in Utah at 100 plus temperatures) so I ended up going with a
turbocharger kit which was easier to install and to control powerwise. With
a roots style supercharger, when you step on the gas, it compresses, right
now. It's like holding your hands over a fan. When you move your hands, the
air flows. The result was fast acceleration and 16 MPG. A turbo takes a bit
to wind up so it is easier to control. Less right foot, less power, better
mileage. 
 The supercharger was a real pain to install, mostly do to incorrect and
missing plumbing pieces. It used engine oil for lube and required drilling
and tapping the crankcase wall for the oil return (the turbo required the
same of the oil pan). The oil had to drain straight down to prevent backing
up and the drain is on the passenger side where there is no oilpan wall at
all. I got the HO model which came with a larger crank pulley to spin the
compressor faster. At high rpms, the seal lips would adhere/melt to the
shafts allowing oil to get past into the intake. Maybe there are higher
temperature seals, I never explored this. Also the carb ends up out over
the fender. This amplifies engine vibrations as well as the supercharger
vibrations and makes things like the air cleaner very hard to keep on. On
it's maiden voyage, despite having a locknut on it, the threaded air
cleaner rod backed out of the carb base and the locknut went into the
supercharger, freezing it and breaking the belt. It ruined the housing and
one lobe. Total damage-$500 and three weeks wait for repairs. At least the
nut didn't make it into the engine. I still have the lobe with the imprint
of the nut in it as a reminder of this whole deal. Next the center section
of the air cleaner cover broke out after a few months from the pressure of
the wing nut (and lock nut) required to keep it on. Another problem, the
darn thing always sounded like the bearings were shot, not the whine that I
expected to hear. It was a terrible noise but the truck did go terribly
fast! 
 Another drawback: The supercharger is tied to the engine by the drive belt
and the drive ratio is fixed. What this means is that as you go up in
altitude and the air gets thinner you get less boost. 6 PSI at 5400 feet =
2 PSI at 10000 feet. The turbo freewheels so it can spin until it meets the
same resistance so it pretty much compensates for the altitude, only about
1 PSI loss. This was important to me since there are two 10000 ft plus
passes between home and Silverton, Colorado where I do most of my wheeling.

 The supercharger was made by Camden and sold by Northwest Off Road. The
next year B&M came out with one that had an offset pulley shaft that
cleared the AC compressor. I wish I would have waited. I think it would
have been a better kit.
 What were the results of all this? With both kits, I could pass safely
now. Leaving Albuquerque to the east on I-40 is a steep pass that the stock
engine/tire/wheel combo could not do better than 55 mph on in 4th gear.
With either kit, 4.56 gears, 31x10.50 tires, 80mph is possible in 5th gear.
I live at 5400 ft altitude, so some of the boost I was getting was just
putting me back at sea level performance, others might not notice as much
gain if they live lower down. Would I do the supercharger again? Not
without a lower compression engine. I still have the turbo on the truck.
The only problem with the turbo is overheating due to the additional heat
added by the water-cooled center section which I could probably fix with a
larger radiator. 

Sorry for all the words, Happy Trails,

Art Rumpf

PS For sale: 1 Used supercharger kit, $2500 invested, $500 or best offer
(no kidding)

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: 14 Aug 1997 12:37:40 -0700
From: Dion Hollenbeck 
Subject: 22RE Rebuild questions
To: Jim Volkerts , toy4x4@tlca.org

>> Jim Volkerts writes:

JV> Sometime back someone wrote about balancing an engine during a rebuild.
JV> I haven't seen anything since. Was it worth the extra cost? Was there a
JV> marked improvement?

That was me.  And what I said then, I will say again for your
benefit.  The $100 or so to have an engine completely balanced while
doing a rebuild is the most bang for the buck you will ever spend!!!
I have had this done on numerous rebuilds, the most noticeable on an
Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite, which has a miniscule motor.  The extra
power and higher RPM was AWESOME.  On my 22RE motors that I have had
this done to, the additional oomph is as noticeable.  However, I
know it will pay off in longevity.

What I did do on my 4Runner (but not on the pickup) was to get a
Schneider "RV grind" cam.  This roughens out the idle a little, but
puts a big boost in the midrange HP and torque.  I would have to say
that the cam was the largest part of the additional power in the
4Runner. 

dion

`85 4Runner 22RE
`86 4x4 PU 22RE

Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x164                 Email: hollen@vigra.com
                                             http://www.vigra.com/~hollen
Sr. Software Engineer - Vigra Div. of Visicom Labs  San Diego, California

--------
------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 18:23:02 -0500
From: Bob Bascom 
Subject: need more power
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

Al Straatman wrote:
> 
>  I am having trouble getting up the mountains near Denver. What is the best
> way to get more power out of my 22re engine? Right now I have 31" tires
> with 4.10 gears. I sometimes hav to put it in 3rd to get it up the hill.
I put a downey header on my 4runner with 31's 4:10's and a 22re. It made
a worls of difference. A K&N filter helps too but not as much. I'm also
working on a 2.25" exhuast. The preliminary design seems to be working
real well.

Ryan Bascom
'87 4runner
TLCA# 5943
bascom@erols.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 18:01:16 -0800
From: "Wayne" 
Subject: need more power
To: 

Al,
    Had the same problem with my 88. Went from about 1100 ft to just over
5500 ft in about 9 miles. Put 235x75 BFG AT's on the truck and it gave me a
lot more power. The drawback, of course, is that you loose clearance. They
kept the roads plowed enough that it did not seem to be much of a problem,
so seemed like a reasonable (read cheap) alternative to regearing.
Wayne

> I am having trouble getting up the mountains near Denver. What is the best
>way to get more power out of my 22re engine? Right now I have 31" tires
>with 4.10 gears. I sometimes hav to put it in 3rd to get it up the hill.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 18:50:13 -0800
From: "Dan Smith" 
Subject: need more power
To: 

Al,
You wrote:
> I am having trouble getting up the mountains near Denver. What is the
best
>way to get more power out of my 22re engine? Right now I have 31" tires
>with 4.10 gears. I sometimes hav to put it in 3rd to get it up the hill. 
My opinion & this is only my opinion from my experience is get gears for
the diffs!
I had 529 gears installed almost a year ago & it has been the best all
around performance improvement I have done. I would not recommend 529 gears
for everyone as the engine is turning 3500 rpm at 60mph in 5th gear. A
better compromise for someone who does a lot of highway driving would be
488 gears. Of course I did replace my "perfectly good" 410 gears and have
done other dreaded modifications to my truck, but it sure as hell 4-wheels
alot better as can be verified by some others on this list!
Dan Smith
prism@premier1.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 20:21:24 -0800
From: Brandon Miller 
Subject: need more power
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org

I would not recommend 529 gears
for everyone as the engine is turning 3500 rpm at 60mph in 5th gear. 

I thought the 5.29's were too low for the highway with 33's, not sure if
I'd do it with 31's. I turn nearly 4grand on the highway with my 35's,
of coarse I cruise at 75-85mph...
- -- 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Brandon Miller                     email: sac78483@saclink.csus.edu
Sacramento, CA                            millerb@gaia.ecs.csus.edu
               
                             url:
http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb                   
TLCA #6013
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------
------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 17:20:49 -0500
From: "Steve C." 
Subject: Re: More Horse Power

Mark Marenghi wrote:
> 
> I'm thinking of so ways to get a little more hp out my 97 Tacoma. I was
> wondering how underdrive pulleys and K&N filter charger would work. Has
> anyone had any experiece with either of the two?
> -mark

I got the 3.4 you dont say what engine you got.....

I have the filter drop in replacent...felt faster and had better
throttle response.
Then I had a dynomax super turbo and 2.5 inch tailpipe installed....felt
even faster and even more crisp on the throttle.

Then I installed the Edelbrock Headers....can you say speed limiter in
4th gear???  I cant even tell you what potential the truck has for top
speed since the computer kicks the timing back at about 108.

The headers are where the bang for you buck comes in.


- ---
Steve Capuano                   
stevecapuano@geocities.com

============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 13:18:21 EST
From: "james stevenson" 
Subject: Turbo VS SuperCharger

>Why is it that Trucks always have superchargers as opposed to 
>turbo's?

A few reasons but the main ones are reliability, heat and compression. A 
turbo has more working parts and runs hotter, due to the exhaust 
providing the energy. Turbo also spin at much higher RPM so the 
components wear much faster. The main difference is the function of the 
boost. A turbo is a logarithmic compressor where most , not all, 
superchargers are linear compressors. This means that the supercharger 
will produce double the boost if you double the rpm a turbo will produce 
the more than double the boost with the same rpm change. A turbo is more 
noticeable for his reason where a supercharger will just shift the 
Torque/Power curves up. The turbo also has a lag as compared to a 
supercharger as it needs the additional exhaust pressure to produce the 
extra boost where the supercharger is operating with the crank and 
therefor has much quicker response. Another problem with the turbo is 
the boost curve itself. To produce an acceptable boost at top rpm (not 
over boost). The boost at low and mid rpm is almost nil. To get around 
this most up the boost pressures and install a wastegate to bleed off 
overboost at high rpm. However this produces more heat in the intake 
charge sapping power. While it is true superchargers do heat up the air 
charge it's not to anywhere near the extent of the turbo. Wile this is 
not a performance gain as such but a loss the supercharger does not have 
as compared to the turbo. At the end of the day the two are really just 
compressors but the turbo seems more acceptable image in advertising. I 
did some interesting testing recently on a Toyota 2.8D motor fitted to a 
Hilux (already had a safari intercooled turbo fitted). I compered the 
motor standard then fitted a turbo kit then a supercharger after that we 
added the intercooler to the turbo and supercharger then checked it. As 
it came out the turbo was not worth it as the heat caused brake and 
clutch oil to boil. (turbo is near brake booster). The intercooler added 
15% to the torque in the turbo/supercharger and stock forms. The Turbo 
added 50% to the power and the supercharger was geared or the same. All 
up the best value for money was the intercooler alone but the 
intercooled supercharger on a Single cab 2.8 Diesel gave the V8 LC a 
good run for it's money. For those in OZ the supercharger was a Sprintex 
and the Intercooler a Safari. They can now be fitted OZ Wide with ADR 
compliance (no engineers certificate). I prefer a supercharger for three 
reasons. First I don't have to worry about a turbo becoming a hand 
grenade when I dunk it in water or fading the clutch/brakes.  Second I 
can change the boost levels on the supercharger easily by adjusting the 
pulley sizes and last if something goes wrong with a supercharger just 
slip of the belt and all is normal. If a turbo goes wrong it's a big 
effort to limp home. And before everyone starts yes I have 2 turbo's in 
TT2 but I still prefer the Superchargers. It was tough to fit the 
turbo's in, had no way of installing 2 superchargers under the bonnet.. 
As far a TT3 goes I'm seriously considering using 2 sprintex units and 
removing the GM turbo's from the 6.5 as I have heaps of space above the 
heads.

James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)

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Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 10:07:53 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Jacobs etc.

IMHO - Save the $$ on the Jacobs and get an exhaust system or an LC 
Engineering header or both. I have a Jacobs and I dont think it does 
anything. Also, while they Jacobs guy do warrantee their wires - I 
have found that they break constantly on me (pull apart when changing 
plugs) I swithced to Magnecore and also got better radio reception.

Also - as an EE by "degree", I am leary of "chips". Its not clear what 
they do, and a "generic" chip IMHO only bumps the timing up to take 
advantage of the use of a higher octane gas. You can do this for free 
by bumping the timing. Some claim to alter the injector pulse widths - 
but at anything other than "full throttle", I do not see how this does 
anything. The TCCS EFI that Toyota uses has some "adaptive" capability. 
If it thinks its too rich - it will cut back the fuel - which leaves
you right back to where you started.

IMHO - for most engines - its the air thats the limiting factor - not 
the fuel. Start by airflow improvements - exhaust/header
Continue with valve timing - cam
Follow with forced induction or nitrous...
Or just skip the whole bolt on route and go for cubic inches - V8

EWong

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