22R Timing Chain Replacement
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 11:33:18 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Informal Survey
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
CN495@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-06-13 17:13:14 EDT, you write:
>
> << I'm assuming that his audible warning was the timing chain
> rubbing against cover saying "hey, I'm loose, change me or I'm gonna
> seize your valves" which is what the Toyota service advisor I talked
> with said to listen for when the chain is about to go. Anyone else
> have a similar experience? >>
>
> Yes there is an audible sound you can listen for and it is hard to explain
> if you havent heard it before. But if you can get around to pulling the
> valve cover off you would know for sure. Just pull the cover and look
> down right in front there are two guides in there and the one that
> seems to break most of the time is the one on the right ( if you are
> standing in front of the truck looking at the engine). Now if it has
> broken into many pieces we suggest pulling the oilpan off and cleaning
> all th old pieces out so as not to cause mechanical damage( maybe Jim
> has another suggestion or differing opinion on this). And I had to
> replace my T-chain at about 65,000 miles and then had to rebuild the
> engine at about 78,000 because the man who previously owned didn't
> know how to change his oil obviouosly. So for all of you buying used
> defenitely something to look at.
>
> Chris
> CN495@aol.com
My opinion is, based on the vehicle's mileage and apparent maintenance
history, the chain should at least be inspected at 100K miles (simply by
rotating the engine by the crankshaft pulley bolt and inspecting the
links, cam and crank gears, guides, and tensioner). If after 100K miles
and either head and/or timing cover removal become necessary, the chain
and timing set should be replaced as a matter of preventative
maintenance. If the vehicle has been maintained properly over the course
of its life, chain replacement is not really needed unless, as mentioned
above, a related sub-assembly is being serviced.
I have never seen outright chain failure that was not related to a
faulty tensioner or extended oil change intervals. I have seen chain
failure (quite a few, actually) due to clogged tensioners. One
tensioner's oil passage was actually blocked by blue RTV, evidence of a
sloppy previous repair.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 16:41:44 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Informal Survey
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
DRM033@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-06-13 15:14:17 EDT, you write:
>
> << Boyd,Tom wrote:
> > I would like to ask members of the group who have had their chains
> > changed (no, not the material kind), what was the mileage at which the
> > chain went and how did you know it was time to change it.
> >>
>
I am in the process of replacing mine (135,000 miles) as I have the
cylinder head off for a leaky head gasket (external) and some minor head
porting work. As I stated before, if mileage is over 100K and the
cylinder head has to come off for any reason, this is also a good time
to do the timing set.
- --
Jim Brink 1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 135,000 Miles
brinkjm@earthlink.net 32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
Stock 4.10 gears
Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 11:26:17 -0600
From: Tony Bartlett
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Info Survey
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I hope this does not jinx me but I have over 220K and have not replaced
mine yet (1985 x-cab SR5 22RE). I also do not hear any noises coming
from that area. I hopefully plan on a rebuild this winter though.
Tony.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:16:07 -0500
From: pmadden@sulzerorthousa.com (Paul Madden)
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Info Survey
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Replaced mine at 181,000 mi. It sounded fine and probably could have
made 200k but why press my luck. So I spent a recent sat. replacing
the chain. Also a good idea is to inspect or just replace water pump
since you are in that part of the engine. Also since I've got an
automatic it's a little easier on the timing chain from what I've
been told.
Paul Madden
'85 4Runner 22re Automatic
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 21:09:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Duckguy@aol.com
Subject: 22RE Timing Chain Replacement Informal Survey
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:25:43 PDT
wrote:
>I have a '86 4Runner, 22-RE, 4 banger with 92K and the timing chain has
never been replaced. I understand that the timing chain is not a
regular interval service item but Mark's note yesterday said that he
had to replace it a 80K. Is this the average mileage that it goes
out? I'm assuming that his audible warning was the timing chain
rubbing against cover saying "hey, I'm loose, change me or I'm gonna
seize your valves" which is what the Toyota service advisor I talked
with said to listen for when the chain is about to go. Anyone else
have a similar experience?
I would like to ask members of the group who have had their chains
changed (no, not the material kind), what was the mileage at which the
chain went and how did you know it was time to change it.
I understand that the V6 has a timing belt. I am assuming the belt
would go at different intervals than the chain due to the material
difference and would make a different noise when about to fail.
Anyone . . . Anyone . . . Bueller.
Anxiously yours,
Tom Boyd
San Mateo, CA
tom_boyd@pa.xerox.com
Tom,
Listen as it WILL talk to you...I heeded it not and $2,500 later
have a new chain cover, chain tensioner assorted valves, pistons etc...
@90,000 mine let loose (88 4Runner 5spd). I knew what was goin' to
happen but tried to squeeze by another week or so...NOPE. Boy, did
I feel foolish!!!
Some I've spoken with found it strange that I thrashed a chain at
90,000 in a 22RE. Others said yeah, it's to be expected at around
75 to 100K miles. So, who ya goin to believe. Good luck
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 10:55:53 -0700
From: Scott Muir
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Informal Survey
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
> << Boyd,Tom wrote:
> > I would like to ask members of the group who have had their chains
> > changed (no, not the material kind), what was the mileage at which
> > the chain went and how did you know it was time to change it.
I've owned my truck since 125000kms and I don't think the guy who had it
before me did the chain. I'm doing it right now. Not sure why this
winter was particularly hard on my timing stuff, but use the search
engine on this list with the keywords "stuck pig" and you'll see what
my first clue was.
My truck now boasts 260000kms... Translates to roughly 53.7k miles with
a pentium... or 165k miles with a calculator. It would appear that for
some reason the top bolt eye on the drivers side chain guide sheared off
allowing the guide to pretty much do what it wants to. My tensioner
looks as Jim Chott describes, "groovy".
I haven't compared the old chain to the new one yet, but the old one
looked pretty slack.
------------------------------
Date: 17 Jun 97 09:49:21 -0400
From: Rob Ellis
Subject: Timing Chain Replacement Info Survey
To: Toyota Digest
I am a little behind on my mail and it's kinda ironic for me that this
was brought up. My guide rail broke and my timing chain started rubbing
the cover 2 days ago. I made it to my brothers shop and pulled the valve
cover to inspect the damage. After a 10 mile trip the chain had already
started cutting into the cover. I bought a kit from T- Hoff and we
installed it in around 2 oopppss make that 3 hours after I had to go back
home for the new oil pump o-ring. Fill up the engine with 5 quarts Mobil 1,
Toyota oil filter, Fill the rad with Toyota Red antifreeze, and turn the
key. My truck is now so oo quite you would think the engine had cut off.
Well my first chain lasted 123,000 so I figure this one will last the same
or maybe longer since the truck has had more general maintenance done in
4000 miles that it had in the first 119,000.
BTW: It was even more ironic when the place me and my wife were eating
at was robbed at gunpoint while we were pulling out of the parking lot.
With luck this good I think I'll go to Vegas.
Rob Ellis
rob_ellis@kobelcortp.com
91, 31X10.50s, Mobil 1.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 18:23:49 -0400
From: Agustinus Gunawan
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
Help
I called my dealer (Colonial Toyota, CT)and quoted $1300 to replace the
timing chain. $780 for the labor and $520 for parts. I cannot afford it.
Should I worry about this or just wait until it start to make noise
There is no noise from the valve train except the first few seconds after
starting the engine. (before the chain get coated by the oil)
The dealer said I don't have to replace it until it starts to make some
noise.
If I have to replace it I am thinking to do it myself.
Any body have a service manual please inform me the part number for all the
parts needed to do it (gasket, camshaft bearing seal, timing chain,
sprocket gear and tensioner, etc)
Any recommendation where I should buy this parts would be appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 16:03:35 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Agustinus Gunawan wrote:
>
> Help
> I called my dealer (Colonial Toyota, CT)and quoted $1300 to replace the
> timing chain. $780 for the labor and $520 for parts. I cannot afford it.
This is because the dealer charges a flat-rate labor time based on a
guide that uses factory-recommended procedures. To replace a timing
chain on a 22R motor, the book allows for cylinder head and oil pan
removal. Flat rate time is about 8-10 hours for this procedure. Most
Toyota dealers only sell the timing parts piece by piece, but this
usually only amounts to about $300. Other dealers sell an OEM-approved
kit for less than $200 that includes all of the parts.
>
> Should I worry about this or just wait until it start to make noise
> There is no noise from the valve train except the first few seconds after
> starting the engine. (before the chain get coated by the oil)
> The dealer said I don't have to replace it until it starts to make some
> noise.
I do not recall the odometer reading on your truck but I would not worry
about the chain until you are past the 150k mile mark or in the event
you need major engine repairs. The noise you hear upon startup may be
because you are using an incorrect oil filter (Not THIS again...). The
use of an oil filter with a built-in check valve (Toyota OEM) may
eliminate, or at least alleviate these symptoms somewhat.
>
> If I have to replace it I am thinking to do it myself.
> Any body have a service manual please inform me the part number for all the
> parts needed to do it (gasket, camshaft bearing seal, timing chain,
> sprocket gear and tensioner, etc)
> Any recommendation where I should buy this parts would be appreciated.
I do not have all of the part numbers in front of me but you will need
the following:
Timing chain
Cam sprocket
Crank sprocket
Guides
Tensioner
Cover gaskets
Front crank seal
Oil pump o-ring
Gasket sealer or oil pan gasket
Try another dealer or reputible auto parts supplier for these parts.
They are very common. There are even some discount Toyota dealers that
advertise in the 4WD magazines that offer substantial savings over
dealer suggested retail prices.
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician
Manhattan Beach, CA
brinkjm@earthlink.net '86 Std. Bed/32"BFG A/T
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) / MRVMA-DESERT EXPLORERS
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 16:18:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Henry
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I have heard a few people lately referring to timing chain noise on start
up disappearing after the chain has become "coated with oil". The
reduction in noise after oil pressure has come up is actually due to the
timing chain tensioner using that oil pressure to increase tension on the
chain. In addition to the spring loading of the tensioner, it also has a
small port on the block side which supplies oil under pressure to boost
the damping ability of the tensioner. Just thought I would clear that up.
Michael Henry
Forestville, CA
henry@sonic.net
'84 X-tra Cab
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 16:37:54 -0700
From: Brandon Miller
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Wow,
get a manual and do it yourself. The only tool you need is a torque
wrench and they are pretty cheap. I don't know if it is worth it to buy
Toyota brand parts, I got my stuff cheap from FPS in Sacramento, their
stuff is a lot better than the Chief, Kragen, etc. stores. You have
plenty of people here that could talk (write) you through it on the
list. I am pretty sure it was less than $100 to replace the chain,
tensioner, new rings, and a bunch of other stuff.
Good luck
- --
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Brandon Miller email: sac78483@saclink.csus.edu
Sacramento, CA millerb@gaia.ecs.csus.edu
url: http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb/4x.html
1983 Toyota LB locked F&R, 5.29:1 gears, roll cage, etc. etc.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 21:43:13 -0400
From: Agustinus Gunawan
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"
Thanks Jim for your complete information
My truck has 124K on the odometer. 22R-TE engine.
I use Motorcraft L-300 oil filter. I bought it from Straus Auto and their
computer said this is for 2.4 turbo engine.
Should I change the filter immediately. I just change the oil this morning
Do you think this wrong filter will cause premature wear in the near future?
I am thinking to use this for 1000 miles first and then change the oil again
----------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 22:36:32 -0700
From: James Brink
Subject: timing chain replacement
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Agustinus Gunawan wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim for your complete information
> My truck has 124K on the odometer. 22R-TE engine.
> I use Motorcraft L-300 oil filter. I bought it from Straus Auto and their
> computer said this is for 2.4 turbo engine.
>
> Should I change the filter immediately. I just change the oil this morning
> Do you think this wrong filter will cause premature wear in the near future?
> I am thinking to use this for 1000 miles first and then change the oil again
I am not familiar with the FL-300 oil filter. If you really wish, you
can spin on a new filter without loosing too much oil...
I think the wrong filter over a long period of time MAY cause
accelerated wear of certian components.
I do seem to remember a difference in start-up noise in the R series
engines after the switch by Toyota from the larger 90915 filter to the
short 08992 unit. Maybe Chris can add to this?
- --
Jim Brink--Toyota/ASE Certified Technician
Manhattan Beach, CA
brinkjm@earthlink.net '86 Std. Bed/32"BFG A/T
************************************************************************
TLCA# 6184/ Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) / MRVMA-DESERT EXPLORERS
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 10:37:09 -0700
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: Timing Chain....
Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:
>
> Well- at 270K it looks like the timing chain is going too
> (whew this has been an $$$ month)
>
> How do I know this? - well - its noisy - but it always was....
> However, I have an Oberg filter - and the bypass light went on
> (not unusal as I run extended drain intervals and synth oil)
>
> So I looked at the filter (its a flat disk of stainless steel mesh)
> and it was loaded with alum "shavings" from either the guides (hopefully)
> or the front cover (hope NOT)
Hmm. Ed, the guides on an '87 are plastic (this IS the original chain,
correct?). Better secure a front cover, just in case.
>
> Right now Im gonn dig out the LC catalog and compare costs
> ot OEM replacements versus the LC kit versus the LC
> double row kit... I'll post my decision...
The L/C conversion to double row is nice (nice and expensive) and not
worth the money/effort, IMHO. Look at how long the OEM
lasted....Besides, it changes most of the parts on the fornt cover to a
20R (oil and water pump, assocoated gaskets, pump drive, etc.)...Just to
add to the confusion when buying parts later on: "I need a water pump
for an '87 Toyota 4Runner but it has an '80 20R engine, sorta."
Most of the local dealers in Southern California source a complete kit
through BRYCO, an OEM manufacturer. This kit comes complete with all
guides, sprockets, gaskets, seals, chain, etc. and runs around the $100
mark. I have installed many and believe it to be of excellent quality.
Getting all of the bits from Toyota will run you close to $300.
>
> So - I went back through the digests and tried to find out
> exactly *how* this can be done w/o removing the head...
>
> As near I can figure it, its done as so -
> * remove all accessories (alt, PS, AC) and lay them to the side
Hint: Pull the accesories off at their brackets, not the individual
units, especially with the P/S pump. The lower bracket bolts to the
block next to the timing cover.
> * pull the rad (makes for more room)
> * pull the fan
> * pull the belts
> * pull the valve cover
> * pull the water pump
> * pull the oil pump
Pull the "3rd" bypass hose off of the water pump too.
If you still have your IFS splash pan, pull it as well.
> heres where it gets "grey"
> ** pull the cam sprocket off the cam but do NOT unbolt the rocker assembly
> as those bolts hold the head on
Yes, no need to pull the head bolts.
> ** possibly "drop the pan" a few inches, but no need to remove the
> pan (unless you drop something in it - in which case
> I might have to drop the diff to get the pan off)
You don't even need to do that. Just remove the two forward-most oil pan
bolts.
> ** get at the "hidden" bolt in the timing cover
> ** pull the front cover
If you have a plastic-faced hammer, use it to lightly tap the edges of
the timing cover to loosen it from the block dowels.
>
> ** To get the chain back on - use a coat hanger and fish the sprocket
> with the chian "wrapped" back up throuh the head.
Unless you have really tiny hands, this is a good idea. I actually use
some small insulated wire. It tends not to stretch like a coat hanger.
>
> seal the "head gasket" area where the timing cover is with "grey"
> sealant - Locktite 599 comes to mind.
The grey sealer is an excellent sealant to use on the entire timing
cover (including the water passages) and oil pan flange as well.
>
> I guess the main point is to NOT losen the head bolts!
No need to at all.
>
> Do have this right?
Pretty close. I'll tell ya' if you mess up ;-)
- --
Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@Off-Road.com
************************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 14:49:21 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Timing Chain - continued
Thanks to the listers (esp Jim Brink and conley@eecs.ukans.edu)
for helping me deal with this task. That and Brandon's(?) archive
(with the Jack Alford/Phillip Farrish(?) writeup) were extremely helpful.
By now I've studied the list and the shop manual as well as
the pretty pictures in the LC catalog to think that I could do
it in my sleep.....
Jim Brink>
>Hint: Pull the accesories off at their brackets, not the individual
>units, especially with the P/S pump. The lower bracket bolts to the
>block next to the timing cover.
Jim had a good point about pulling the accessories with the brackets,
but since I have a Wrangler alternator conversion, its not as
simple for me...
Also, I have a bad habit of "painting" all the parts that come out -
esp the brackets - I think high temp "yellow" would look nicer than the
current blue (I'll reserve blue for the coolant pipes) - thus it takes
me *forever* to get this job done.
The AC has never been removed - so this bracket finally gets painted!
Thanks to Jim for the BRYCO chain kit tip.
Unfortunately, I priced the cost of a new "cover" (as there is alum
in the oil filter) and the OEM cost of the chain and it
seems that the LC kit is pretty close in cost (esp if you throw
in the cost of a water pump and the oil pump) so LC
had already gotten the call (I didnt get to the digest until lunchtime).
Oh yeah - I gott get some Nylac to paint the shiny front cover!
Good thing Eastwood Tools is just down the street!
Jim Brink> Just to add to the confusion when buying parts later on:
[issue of converting to 20R parts on a 22RE engine]
As far as parts confusion - I have a 89 Gen1 4Runner - this
already causes mucho confusion....
Oh yeah - its NOT just a 20R conversion - the chain is a "custom"
unit as well - only avail from LC...At least thats what they say...
Jim Brink> If you still have your IFS splash pan, pull it as well.
I plan on doing this work from the top/bottom, I was
already assuming that one would pull the splash pan -
if only to get at the lower rad hose. Thanks for the reminder
though... Oh yeah - its a Downey alum fron skid plate.
EWong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 18:00:17 -0700
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: Timing Chain - continued
Ed.Wong@astramerck.com wrote:
>
> Thanks to Jim for the BRYCO chain kit tip.
> Unfortunately, I priced the cost of a new "cover" (as there is alum
> in the oil filter) and the OEM cost of the chain and it
> seems that the LC kit is pretty close in cost (esp if you throw
> in the cost of a water pump and the oil pump) so LC
> had already gotten the call (I didnt get to the digest until lunchtime).
Oh yeah, i forgot about the chunk-style oil filter...Maybe you should
pull the pan and clean it and the pick-up as well. If you can get the
motor up high enough (I just pull the center motor-mount bolt/nut--In
your case the fan will be off so shroud/radiator clearance will be
alright) you can pull the pan w/o dropping the diff. if you're willing
to fiddle with the pick-up tube a bit.
Sorry for the oversight.
- --
Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician 1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
Manhattan Beach, CA 32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
ToyTech@Off-Road.com
************************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 18:06:32 -0500 (US Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Ebersold, Chance J"
Subject: timing chain
After replacing the head gasket on my 22-re I'm having
trouble getting the cam sprocket onto the cam. I've tried
rotating the crank while holding the gear but that hasn't
moved it. It's about 1/8 inch to low. Any ideas as to
what I should try short of tearing everything apart again?
- --
Ebersold, Chance J
ebersocj@jmu.edu
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 15:40:53 -0700
From: "Fallon"
Subject: RE: timing chain
I had the same hellatious problem, after doing my headgasket too. You have
to Get a long thin metal bar or something and compress the chain tentioner.
It's on the passenger side if I remember and a real pain to do, but you can
do it.
Thanx,
Devin Noel
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 16:19:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Luke P Miller
Subject: RE: timing chain
That's the same thing that happened to me. You have to take the tension
off the chain by pushing the tensioner back (to the left or towards the
passenger side, that general direction). The cam sprocket should still be
a tight fit then, I just had to muscle it on. Be careful about turning the
crank in this situation (no chain), a piston could come up and hit any
valve that is sitting open, and you could bend it. The 22-RE is an
interference engine (I learned this the hard way once).
Luke Miller
__________________________________________________________________________
1985 4Runner 3"Alcan front lift, 3" custom Mazda spring rear lift, 4.88's,
rear lockright, RS 9000's, 32x11.50 Michelins, ugly homemade bumpers (the
best kind)...
__________________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 14:04:08 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Timing chain Qs?
Well, I got the front cover off, but in the processes of turning the crank to
line the marks up, the chain dropped off (the upper sprocket was unbolted...)
Well - just turn the crank eh? - hmmm - wont that bend the valves?
So - how to turn the crank w/o bending the valves - um do I have to
take the head off - well dang me!
So while I was at the machine shop... I asked the mech guy there.
His suggestion - back out the valve adjuster "studs" all the way. He thought
that this would allow enough room (about 1/2" is a guess) so that the valves
will retract all the way to the seats.
While I'll have to re-adjust the valves (and thanks to the list for the 0.001 under
trick for cold valves), its far easier than taking off the head! Besides, I was
going to re-adjust the valves anyway...
Oh - with respect to the "get the chain on the cam sprocket" issue, Im thinking
of putting the cain on FIRST, then the tensioner, and then the TC cover etc...
Should be mucho easier w/o tension on the chain!
EWong
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 17:26:36 -0700
From: Jim Brink
Subject: Re: blown head gasket
Figenbaum, Rob wrote:
>
> Man that intake manifold oand all those hoses are a bitch. As I said
> replacing head gasket, coolant in oil, and doing timing chain on my poor
> 86 4Runner (140,000 miles). Thanks for all the help so far, more is
> always welcome, its been a while since I've been doing this. Couple of
> more questions. Any other things I should replace while in there? My
> valves always chatter around 2K RPM should I look at them? How long
> does this job usually take? Is it better to remove oil pan for timing
> chain?
You don't need to remove the oil pan for chain replacement, just the two
forward-most pan bolts that thread into the timing cover. When you are
all done, be sure to seal up the front oil pan rail well, where it meets
the timing cover. Permatex Grey RTV works great for this.
Consider replacing the water pump and the heater by-pass hoses while you
have all of that stuff apart. Now is a good time to replace those
possibly marginal and hard to reach coolant hoses under the intake
manifold.
- --
Jim Brink Toyota/ASE Certified Technician toytech@off-road.com
Manhattan Beach, CA http://www.off-road.com/~toytech/
**********************************************************************
1986 Toyota Standard Bed 4WD
22R - 32x11.50/15 BFG M/T - 4.88s- Downey LSD - EZ Locker
**********************************************************************
TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road - CA4WDC
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
------------------------------
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