Polyurethane Bushings
-----------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 13:38:36 -0800
From: Eric Johnson
Subject: Polyurethane Bushings
To: "'swilson@pacbell.net'"
Scott wrote:
>I've read a couple of articles on polyurethane bushings, and both of them
>said that the best dollar for dollar upgrade you could do to the suspension,
>is to change the bushings on the front sway bar to poly bushings.
I think I saw that too, in the Performance Products catalog, right next to
their add for the poly bushings they sell :)
>I own an 88 4Runner and I'm thinking of trying it. Anyone out there
>tried this yet, or even heard someone else doing it?
>I appreciate any input.
I've got an Energy poly set on my front swaybar on my '87 4Runner. Its
nice for on-road use, but swaybars in general suck for slow trail riding
(IMHO) because they remove some of the "I" from your "IFS" :) I don't know
if I'd bother with then again..1
In fact, I'm on my second prototype of a toyota quick-disconnect swaybar
I've designed. Articulation is much nicer on the trail without a swaybar at
all, so i figured an easily-disconnectable one would be the best of both
worlds. My first prototype worked good, but it wasn't as 'quick' to
disconnect, so I've recently redesigned it. I'll post my plans once I get a
few more of the bugs worked out of the design. The newest protoype is
looking good, but I need to go out and pound on by driving hard on it while
connected, before I feel comfortable giving away my plans.
>I'd also like your opinions on any other poly application you've tried.
I'm using low-profile poly bumpstops. I carefully took measurements before
and after, and I get at least an additional inch of front travel with them.
And they're cheap; about $10/pair. You'll need 3 pairs for the front end of
a IFS toyota.
- -- ej@blarg.net
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 22:08:31 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Great shop/Great bushings
To: "TLCAL@tlca.org"
These guys did a great job, and have great customer service, so they
deserve a little praise...
I recently purchased shackles, poly bushings for my front anti-sway bar
and rear leaf springs, and low profile bump stops for the IFS on my
'88 4Runner from my local 4WD parts store, "4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers"
in San Jose, CA. This is same chain of stores that advertises in
magazines like "Petersen's 4Wheel & Off Road," though I thinks it's
the main branch that gets it's phone # and address in the magzines.
- -First of all their prices were amazing. I checked with several other
parts stores in the area for prices on the shackles I needed as well as
the poly stuff. 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers beat even the lowest estimate
I had by nearly 50%. Enough said.
- -Second, they got all the right stuff ordered. And got it in before
they said they could!
- -And last, great service. They treated me with respect which is more
than I got from some of the other shops in the area that I visited.
They also ordered more poly bushings than I needed by mistake, and
even though I had opened the package before I learned of the error,
they took them back without any hassle.
And now the poly bushings...
I purchased poly bushing for my rear springs and anti-sway bar (though I
haven't had time to do the sway bar yet). The brand is Energy Suspension.
First of all, YES, I know you do lose some articulation off-road from your
leaf springs w/poly, but for a guy like me who does 90% or more of his
driving on road, and rarely gets to do something so exciting that I could
notice a loss in articulation off road (I know I'm not the only one out
there), these poly bushings are awesome!! Only $25 worth of bushings took
all the slop out of my rear end. I am very impressed. I have two
driving situations that will help me to express the change in the 4Runner
since the poly bushings were added. (Sorry they're both on-road example
haven't had a chance to take it off road yet)
The first is...previously, when I took a corner and let the back of the
truck out, when the tires finally catch the truck gets rocked from side to
side as the suspension deals with all the force it just encountered. Now,
when the tires catch (and no, I'm not in the habit of letting the back end
out often) ;) there is only one jerk to the side as the settles, and it's
back to normal driving.
My other good example is driving through the potholed streets of San Jose,
especially intersections that are all torn up. The poly simply absorbs SO
MUCH more of the shock |from the road, putting you more firmly planted on
the road. I let you know how well they do off-road after Thanksgiving, I'm
headed up to the Shasta area that weekend. :)
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:25:41 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dr. Karl Bellve wrote:
>
> On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Kevin Valentine wrote:
>
> > To Scott and the others who are well informed about bushings:
> >
> > What is a good brand and where can they be had? How much should one
> > expect to pay for the poly bushings? Is it a big job to install these
> > on the leaf springs, etc.?
> >
>
> Well, no, except for the rear leafs. I had to burn my old rubber bushings
> out. They appeared to have fused with the metal tube that surrounded the
> bolt.
I've found a much better (less smelly and faster) way to get 'em out.
Take the toughest flat head screw driver and POUND (you'll need a BIG
hammer) it in to the eye, right at the point where the circle (the eye)
meets itself. You essentially open up the eye, and the bushings either
slide right out, or can be forced out with MUCH less effort. I've done
both my 4Runner and my friend Toy p/u this way with great results.
As far as the rubber being fused with the metal tube that the bolt goes
through, it's supposed to be. On most of 'em its fused to both that
center metal sleeve, and the thin one on the outside, you just remove
and throw away the whole thing. The new poly urethane bushing set
should come with a new metal sleeve for the bolt to go through.
IMHO, the ride I got from the poly, far outweights the effort it took to
figure out how to do it. Now that I told you the easy way, you should
have an easier time. After I learned how to do it on my truck, changing
the bushings in my friends truck was a snap.
About brands, as far as I've heard, theres no big difference. Anyone
heard different? Mine were Energy Suspension, and my friends were so
other brand.
Oh yeah, if you do it, make sure and get some really coarse sand paper
and sand the bushings really good, then grease 'em up really well with
the grease provided with the poly set. This will insure they won't
squeek.
Hope this answered you questions.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:22:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-04-16 13:40:56 EDT, you write:
> Well, no, except for the rear leafs. I had to burn my old rubber bushings
> out. They appeared to have fused with the metal tube that surrounded the
> bolt.
>
> Dr. Karl Bellve
I have found that an air chissel will take care of that stubborn metal
sleeve.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 09:39:45 +0000
From: Dylan Keon & Karen Levy
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I need help with a problem...
I'm replacing my rubber spring bushings with poly on my stock springs,
and I'm having trouble with the front eye on the rear springs. I bought
the bushings from Downey (part #DOW9-2071), and double checked to make
sure they sent the right ones, which they did. In the front eye of the
rear spring is a metal sleeve that surrounded the stock bushings ((not
the small metal insert that the bolt goes through)). The Downey
bushings are too large in diameter to fit into that sleeve, but it looks
like they will fit perfectly into the eye if that sleeve is removed.
Problem is, that sucker won't budge. Can someone tell me if that sleeve
IS supposed to come out? And if so, how the heck do you remove it?
There is no way the Downey bushing will fit into it. Now I'm stuck
cause I destroyed the rubber bushings when I took them out...anyone ever
driven about 10 miles with just the bolt through the spring?? :)
Thanks a lot,
Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 12:35:51 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dylan Keon & Karen Levy wrote:
>
> I need help with a problem...
> I'm replacing my rubber spring bushings with poly on my stock springs,
> and I'm having trouble with the front eye on the rear springs.
Don't panic, I've got the answer. I've done poly on two Toys now (mine
and my friends) so I've got a really good method. Get yourself and
TOUGH flat head screw driver, and a HEAVY hammer. That's all you should
need. Hammer the screw driver in where the eye raps around the bushing
and meets itself. Hammer it in deep! Don't wiggle your screwdriver up
and down (as my friend did to my Craftsman) or it will break (just as my
Craftsman)(Sears replaced it w/o even asking how I did it). Once you've
forced the eye open enough the bushing (yes, with the metal band around
it) should pop right out, or can be tapped out with the hammer.
Don't try to remove the metal band from the rubber or vice verse. The
rubber was molded to it, so you'll never get it out that way. The above
method usually get 'em out in about 5-10 minutes. I learned it the hard
way, after many hours of failed attempts. The only other option I know
of, is to torch the rubber out, and thats just silly. ;) Let me know
how it goes, and if you have more questions, feel free to voice them.
Scott
PS- make sure you sand the poly really good, and grease it well before
you put 'em in. Otherwise you'll be tearing it all apart in 6 months to
regrease it and stop the squeeking (like I did).
- --
*****************************************************
Scott Wilson TLCA #5261
88 4Runner SR5 V6
Santa Clara, CA
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 1997 22:07:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: DRM033@aol.com
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 97-05-09 12:39:41 EDT, you write:
> I need help with a problem...
> I'm replacing my rubber spring bushings with poly on my stock springs,
> and I'm having trouble with the front eye on the rear springs. I bought
> the bushings from Downey (part #DOW9-2071), and double checked to make
> sure they sent the right ones, which they did. In the front eye of the
> rear spring is a metal sleeve that surrounded the stock bushings ((not
> the small metal insert that the bolt goes through)). The Downey
> bushings are too large in diameter to fit into that sleeve, but it looks
> like they will fit perfectly into the eye if that sleeve is removed.
> Problem is, that sucker won't budge. Can someone tell me if that sleeve
> IS supposed to come out? And if so, how the heck do you remove it?
> There is no way the Downey bushing will fit into it. Now I'm stuck
> cause I destroyed the rubber bushings when I took them out...anyone ever
> driven about 10 miles with just the bolt through the spring?? :)
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
> 1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
>
I use an air chissel. First take a hack saw and make a groove. Use that
groove to position the chissel blade. hit the trigger and it will cut the
cleanest line you have ever seen, or it will push the sleeve clean out. This
is the best way I have found, and I have tried all of that beating and
hammering.
David
DRM033@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:20:46 +0000
From: Dylan Keon & Karen Levy
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:
> Don't panic, I've got the answer. I've done poly on two Toys now (mine
> and my friends) so I've got a really good method. Get yourself and
> TOUGH flat head screw driver, and a HEAVY hammer. That's all you should
> need. Hammer the screw driver in where the eye raps around the bushing
> and meets itself. Hammer it in deep! Don't wiggle your screwdriver up
> and down (as my friend did to my Craftsman) or it will break (just as my
> Craftsman)(Sears replaced it w/o even asking how I did it). Once you've
> forced the eye open enough the bushing (yes, with the metal band around
> it) should pop right out, or can be tapped out with the hammer.
Will the spring eye return to its original shape after you do this?
I'm beginning to wonder if I really do have stock springs...I talked with
Downey and they contend that I can't have stock springs or else their
bushings would fit. They think I have Skyjacker springs (apparently
Skyjacker makes a smaller front eye than stock on the rear spring). But the
stock springs I've inspected on other trucks look just like mine so it's a
little confusing.
The other problem is that my bolt is a bit too large to fit through Downey's
metal insert, and the previous insert (stock??) is too large to fit through
Downey's bushings. I'm thinking of filing out the I.D. of the bushings a bit
so that I can fit the original insert through them, as long as 1) I can
remove the metal sleeve from the eye and 2) the bushing fits correctly in the
eye with the sleeve removed.
Can anyone help me identify my springs from any of these clues? Thanks!
> Don't try to remove the metal band from the rubber or vice verse. The
> rubber was molded to it, so you'll never get it out that way. The above
> method usually get 'em out in about 5-10minutes. I learned it the hard
> way, after many hours of failed attempts. The only other option I know
> of, is to torch the rubber out, and thats just silly. ;)
Too late! I already torched out the one side, assuming the bushings would
fit into the metal sleeve. At least I had enough sense this morning to only
do one side...what a PITA! :)
> Let me know how it goes, and if you have more questions, feel free to
> voice them.
OK, thanks much for the advice.
Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:39:25 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dylan Keon & Karen Levy wrote:
> Will the spring eye return to its original shape after you do this?
Yes
> I'm beginning to wonder if I really do have stock springs...
You mean even after the thin metal sleeve is out, the poly won't fit?
> The other problem is that my bolt is a bit too large to fit through Downey's
> metal insert, and the previous insert (stock??) is too large to fit through
> Downey's bushings. I'm thinking of filing out the I.D. of the bushings a bit
> so that I can fit the original insert through them, as long as 1) I can
> remove the metal sleeve from the eye and 2) the bushing fits correctly in the
> eye with the sleeve removed.
Don't know what to tell you there. My guess is you have stock springs
just because your front bushing is like every other Toy I've looked at.
It's always possible the Downey stuff is wrong...
> Too late! I already torched out the one side, assuming the bushings would
Bet that was smelly!!
Let us know what happens...
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 17:02:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: TXPakRat@aol.com
Subject: Help! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Dylan,
Don't feel bad about trying to get the bushings to fit. I tried to get
poly swaybar and endlink bushings for my '90 4Runner a few years ago. I
ordered them from Performance Products. When I got them, I found that they
were WAY too small, front and rear. I called them up after I measured my
swaybars with calipers. Well, come to find out that apparently, Toyota used
THREE different diameter sway bars in the first year of the second gen
4Runners. Two of them were dropped and one was carried to future years of
4Runners. Jim, I don't know if you can confirm this or not! With the stock
rubber bushings, it was not as much of a problem between sizes, but the
stiffness of the poly's made a big difference! Well, I ended up with one of
the odd size setups. My swaybars are significantly thicker than what was
eventually settled on for future 4Runners. I ended up getting the closest
size that I could and then using a dremel to increase the I.D. to fit my
swaybars. Talk about a PITA! I think that the ones I got for the front were
for the front of '79-87 2x trucks and the rears were supposed to be standard
2nd gen 4Runner fronts! I have had them on ever since and they seem to work
great (almost no lean in tight or hard turns)!
I checked with Downey to see what sizes they carried, and they carried
the same sizes for my truck that Perf Prods did. They tech I talked to
confirmed the story about the three different swaybars on '90 4Runners, too!
Bob
Pack Rat
TXPakRat@aol.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 19:37:25 +0000
From: Dylan Keon & Karen Levy
Subject: Help!! -- spring bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, I finally fit the bushings into my springs. Thanks Scott, Dave,
and Bob for the advice. Scott, I ended up using your method of opening
up the eye although I used a large chisel instead of a screwdriver.
Man, did that work well! Tapped that sucker right out once I had the
eye opened up a little. The Downey bushings fit after I removed the old
bushings/sleeves, and I was able to use their metal inserts after a bit
of filing (I had written before that my bolts wouldn't fit through the
inserts). So I'm set to go!
Bob, too bad about your sway bar bushing fiasco, but that's good you
finally got 'em on. I bought some sway bar bushings from Downey and
they fit fine on my '86 pu. They feel great too! Really reduced body
roll around curves and turns.
Thanks again for the advice everyone...
Dylan Keon, KA8PFC
1986 22RE 4WD SR5 longbed, 172K
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 09:00:42 -0700
From: nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
Subject: shackles and bushings
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
penny wrote:
"who should i contact to get 2" front shackle
lift for my 82 (solid axle)? Not sure about
poly...My truck still has factory bushings
after 15 years they are still all there but
im sure they are pretty shot! What does a set
cost? front and rear."
Shackles: Con-Ferr, Downey, Rocky Mtn. Off-Road, I'm sure a bunch of others.
When you say a 2" shackle lift, though, do you want a 2" shackle, or 2"
of lift? Because a shackle provides about 50-70% of its height in lift.
A 2" lift would require a 3" shackle, for example.
Bottom line on the bushings: You're going with urethane. The reason? The
bushings under your truck ARE shot, and if you replace them with new
factory rubber, you will have a heart attack and die right there in the
parts department when they tell you how much they cost! Urethane from
Energy or whomever will run you about $40.
Good luck,
- Nick
------------------------------
Date: 14 May 1997 09:50:23 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski"
Subject: shackles and bushings
To: "Toyota 4x4 List"
Subject: Time: 8:57 AM
OFFICE MEMO shackles and bushings Date: 5/14/97
Scott Wilson wrote:
snip
>15 yr old rubber!! Yuck!! You really ought to replace the bushings on
>all four springs then anyway, whether you want rubber, or poly. I
>strongly reccomend the poly though. I don't think I've talked to anyone
>who was not happy about the poly urethane on their truck.
I ran Rancho, Downey and NWOR poly bushings for a long while and
have since swapped back to rubber. I prefer the softer rubber compound
and the extra suspension movement I get from it.
I have not tried the Energy Suspension pieces which seem to be much
softer than most poly bushings.
I found stock rubber bushings from Toyota were about $4+ each. Napa
had them for about $2 - $2.50 each.
________________________________________
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY) '91 4Runner
Gilbert, AZ
ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club TLCA #3243
________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 14:09:21 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: poly bushings---where to get them?
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Matthew C Chapin wrote:
>
> I think it is time I go poly! I may end up doing all the cab mounts as
> well as spring bushings as well. I would like to know where the best
> place to get them is.
4Wheel Parts Wholesalers has good prices on their poly. They sell
Energy Suspension Poly. Energy poly is getting a really good reputation
for giving just the right amount. Some manufacturers make their poly
WAY too stiff. All my poly is Energy and I'm very happy with it.
Scott
- --
*****************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 1997 09:06:57 -0400
From: john skaggs
Subject: Urethane Bushings
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Someone asked a little while ago about Urethane bushings. I called Energy
Suspensions last night and got a few part #'s for my 85 4Runner, I don't know
if they will work for you but here are the #'s and prices at Summit Racing
Frt Leaves = 8-2102 $17.99
Rear Leaves = 8-2103 $22.69
Frt Track arm = 8-7101 $17.99
I haven't received these yet so I don't know if they fit for sure. Summit also
sells a Urethane kit for the Toyota 4x4 for ~$100.00. Summit is on the web at
www.summitracing.com
Hope this helps,
John Skaggs
TLCA# 5560
85 4Runner
Akron, Ohio
John.Skaggs@ab.com
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 21:50:24 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Squeak, Squeak, Honk!
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Steve Capuano wrote:
>
> >I will NEVER put poly back in my bushings, I am sick of people asking if
> >the thing is going to fall apart, poly everywhere else but factory
> >rubber in the springs...
>
> OOPS--thanks for the forewarning!!!!
>
If you ruff the poly up A LOT with sand paper, and grease them properly,
they're as quiet as rubber.
Scott
- --
Scott A. Wilson __o __o __o __o
Santa Clara, CA _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_ _'\<,_
swilson@pacbell.net (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_) (_)' (_)
http://petra.austinc.edu/mcontrer/scott
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 04:58:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Toy4x4s@aol.com
Subject: Poly bushings in shocks...
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Try this...lube up the shock ring and bushing... Go over to your vise open it
up and put the shock ring and bushing in the jaws and close vise until it
slips in... No pounding, no sweat on forehead... it's easy... to press out...
secure said shock ring in vise jaws just enough to hold it snug (don't smush
it) with the hole facing north/south... (not like east/west like when you
pressed it in.) and get a big socket like a spark plug socket... squirt WD40
around bushing, and put socket on bushing and a couple swift whacks with a
hammer ans it pops out...
June Bennett
TLCA 2942
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 16:09:44 EST
From: 70802616.TEC.DOON.CC@conestogac.on.ca
Subject: reply to IFS control arm bushings
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris if you live anywhere but the driest of climates you are correct
in assuming that you need new sleeves in order to install the poly
bushings. You can order the bushings from toyota seperately but at
$80 each x 8 It is not worth it. My 86 ext 4x4 has over 200 thousand
KM and my mechanic had to torch the ecentric bolts of the bottom a
arms to get them out. This job is not worth it my total bill parts
and labor were close to $2500 and when we got the factory bushings
out there was nothing wrong with them. Since installation I have not
noticed any improvement whatsoever. The only new effect is the
associated squeek you get with poly. Save your money and if you need
new bushings just put in the toyota pieces.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 00:16:14 -0800
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: The ol' Poly vs Rubber debate...
To: Toy4x4 List
As many of you know I've been running poly leaf spring bushigns for the
last year. I R&R'd my rear springs and axle (external only) today, and
while I was at it replaced the poly with factory rubber. I took
measurements last night and again tonight (before and after) and found
that my travel went from 15.5" to 16.25" (measured at the hub) Not a
huge improvement. The big difference I see is that it takes much less
force to get the axle to twist up...which is a nice characteristic. I
still feel that poly has a MUCH nicer on-road ride, but I'd rather have
the extra travel right now. :-)
The only BIG negative thing I've found after switching back to the poly
is that when I really stuff one of the rear tires up in there it rubs on
the frame REALLY BAD. Not just a gentle brushing...I'm talking truck
shaking, noisey, mud terrain kinda rubbing. Oh well, take a
little...give a little. :-(
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson
| _ _ : Santa Clara, CA
*/_\---/_\' http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
(_) (_)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 03:51:34 -0800
From: "Craig Blanchette"
Subject: The ol' Poly vs Rubber debate...
To:
I've heard that poly now can be ordered with better then
rubber characteristics. It is a new design that just can
out. soft like rubber, and wont break down over time.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 08:03:59 PST
From: "james stevenson"
Subject: The ol' Poly vs Rubber debate...
To: swilson@unix.off-road.com, toy4x4@tlca.org
I use Polyurethane bushes on the leaf packs and rubber on the upper
shackle. I find this gives a good compromise. I stopped the tire rubbing
on my Toy by moving both diffs forward (Bit of a hassle if you have IFS)
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 16:34:52 -0500
From: Chris Knight
Subject: The ol' Poly vs Rubber debate...
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Scott Wilson wrote:
> Any idea which manufacturers poly you heard this about? Sounds like
> something I'd be interested in...
>
> Scott
> --
Check out the new issue of Four Wheeeler, it has an article on this
exact topic. It showed a jeep travel further up the ramp with the new
poly bushings. They were a new kind and have to be special ordered from
Energy Suspension(714) 361-3935.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 13:44:23 -0800
From: "Craig Blanchette"
Subject: The ol' Poly vs Rubber debate...
To:
I looked it up and energy suspensions making the new soft
poly.
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 09:24:30 -0500
From: Randy Hayman
Subject: Re: Poly Bushings []<->[]
At 08:20 AM 6/11/98 EDT, David Moore wrote:
>Bummer, Scott! You should get some air tools ;)
>
>I found that an air chissel gets those stubborn things out *real fast*.
I missed part of the original post, but if the bushings
you are trying to remove are rubber, douse the metal-rubber
contact area with Brake Cleaning fluid and they'll slip
right out. The brake cleaning fluid starts dissolving
the rubber, though not a lot, just enough to create a
slippery film. One may need a screwdriver to slightly
separate the rubber from the metal enough to get the
squirt-tube in there.
If I'm not answering the question, just consider this
rambling a two-banana tip for the future.
- --
Randy Hayman
mailto:haymanr@icefog.alaska.edu
============================================================================
Toyota 4x4 page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota
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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 20:27:07 -0500
From: "Tim&Michelle Macy"
Subject: Poly Bushings []<->[]
Poly is a pita!!! In fact this is an understatement. It took me a full 2
days to install the following:
1 1/2" shackles 2" blocks Poly rear spring bushings
1/4" ball joint spacers 3" bumpstop brackets Poly IFS bushings
My Bushings are Energy Suspension and work great now that they are
installed. The front didn't come with new inner or outer sleaves.
Which means the stock sleave are left in the arms and burned out.
The rear came with new inner sleaves because it is best to cut a slit
in the old ones with a hacksaw to relieve some pressure before pressing
them out. The back wasn't to difficult just a little time consuming.
The front is a toxic disaster, you have to burn out everything. Burning
is what takes all the time. I found it best to heat up the inner sleave
until it falls out, a little coaxing with a hammer may be necessary.
After the inner sleave is out it will slowly burn. I let it burn until
it got crusty and then I would scrape it with an old screw driver and
then hit it again with the torch. By the end of this project I swore
I would never use poly again. However after driving on it I am quite
pleased, and might be up to doing it again. In a few years.
Tim Macy 1994 RegCab / It works!
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Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 21:33:04 -0700
From: Scott Wilson
Subject: Re: Poly Bushings []<->[]
Tim&Michelle Macy wrote:
>
> Poly is a pita!!! In fact this is an understatement. It took me a full 2
> days to install the following:
Bummer....you should have read me tips on the Poly vs Rubber page I did
for Off-road.com's Toyota seciton. :-)
If you hammer a screwdriver into the eye, where the leaf wraps around
the bushing, and meets itself, it will releive just enough pressure to
pound the bushing (metal sleeves and all) out. It's a lot less smelly
than burning 'em out. :-)
Scott
- --
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